High Tea with lencac is a channel with current events commentary, biblical outlooks, as well as rifle range tests and rifle projects of various types. Also content featuring the Mighty Mercury Marauder and projects featuring automotive content. Trying to mash all that together into a cohesive channel that is interesting and informative is the goal.
Hi Dave; I'd have to say I'm not parcel to any brand. I think they all fly fine. So I will get what's available. And today that's not much. I think it's more a matter of the combo for a particular rifle and how the cartridge is put together. - David
@@lencac7952 The reality is, some ammo was never good to begin with, and some folks simply don’t understand that an accurate rifle won’t necessarily perform when its fed crap ammo-its a combination of good ammo, rifle, and shooter that makes for little groups!
You are so correct. That was part of the tests also. To see how different old surplus ammo. is vs. some decent handloads. Most folks are just people with guns and have very little understanding about the intricacies of the hobby. Only a few are actual gun people. I suppose we could consider those people nerds. But the nerds are in the know. If I was rich I'd go and get high dollar factory ammo. to test. Be interesting. But I'm not about to go spend $40 on a 20 rd. box of ammo. Thanks Michael.
Just bought a larger vintage scope to put on one of our A4s-like what you can do with yours, and the little 330 Weavers just don’t have enough magnification for my eyes!
Hi Michael: Yep, what the Army was thinking when they thought it a good idea to put the Alaskan and Weaver scopes on these things is a bit of a mystery. The Marines knew it was a crap set-up so they refused to field the A4's. The rest of the militaries around the world fielded much better set-ups like the Germans, Swedes, Brits. Likewise, I've had a number of vintage scopes of that era. But in reality modern scope, even not high end scopes are head and shoulders above those old scopes. Thanks for watching and commenting Michael.
Hi burville: After watching the video I can't help but notice a couple things. One, this M1A rings the bell also like the one last week. I have learned from building these things the sound of the flash hider ringing shows me the the gas sys., the stock to action mating is all in tune. Second, I shot the handloaded ammo. with more diligence than the surplus ammo. Shot the surplus a little sloppy. In all honesty I built these for 2 friends that wanted the ArchAngel stock. And the LOP on it is a bit too long for me. So I never get comfortable. Next week we shoot my NM M1A with walnut stock. Be interesting I think.
Tomato - Toma-toe... I primarily use IMR - 4895, or Re-15, however it really is about the rifle and what the barrel likes. those Hornady 168's are some go to projectiles for the price. Funny, I used to only shoot them at the 600 yard line, I used the 150 pull-down FMJ at the 200 yard and 300 yard stages to make it easier on the old wallet. they grouped tight enough for open sights. I pulled some good scores with them. I used IMR-4064 until I noticed that ware marks on the bolt ears were pronounced and bright, 4064 works good, however, (From what I saw on my rifles) it acted a little slow for the gas action of the system. anyway. good video - Dave
Hi Dave: If I have my choice I'd prefer 4895 but I can't find any of that stuff. Haven't seen any for a couple years now. Always sold out online. So fuck it! The only reason I still have 4064 is because I found a lb. of it I had stashed and forgot about.
Hi Dave: If I had my choice I'd prefer 4895. But I can't find any. I only have the 4064 because a friend a few years ago got it for me cause it was on the shelf and forgot he had it. IMR 4895 should be renamed to Unabtainium. Oh, now that I think of it. I think I want to tighten-up the Schuster adjustable gas block by another click. See how it is kind of throwing the brass out lazily? Notice how this one rings the bell also like the first one?
@@lencac7952 Hodgdon Varget use to be my go to powder a few years back especially for my 223. it literally is Unobtanium here in the UK and the rest of the EU.... Apparently there's an ingredient in it that makes you grow a third bollock if you shoot it.🤣 so the bureaucrats in the EU banned it's use.😡
@@lencac7952 , Hey my Friend Question : What is the Tool ya put on Calibers to measure the Ojive ?? I've never used them all these years but even with good quality projectiles COAL isn't cutting it lately .. For say a K-31 do ya know what it's called or used ?? thank you MB .... #FJB
Hi. Couple of questions. What was used to finish the stock? How did you take off the end cap on the hand guard to get it cerakoted? How do you disassemble the bolt handle knob for the same reason? I have a new unused stock and hand guard. I’d like to replicate yours. I think it is a beechwood. Many thanks!
Hi des: On this one I can't remember particularly but it's probably a concoction of bees wax, turpentine, white vinegar mostly. I think the original walnut k31's were finished with something as that. The beech wood stock I think were finished in a shellac based finished. End cap on handguard, I cheated, it's Krylon. Taped and sprayed. Action Knob. Polish first then carefully tape before CeraKote job. Rear sight tangent just clean it with 1200 grit on a flat stone to get the CeraKote off . Does your stock not have a serial number stamped on it??
@@lencac7952 Thanks for your detailed reply. The stock has never had its surface finished or been on a rifle. The only numbers are under the butt plate which read VII 44 which may mean made in July 1944. The other concern I have is when they bake after cerakote the rear sight solder will melt?
Wow, that is a find. Yep the date code is stamped on the butt plate surface. And nope, if the CeraKote guy knows what he is doing the bake temp 300 degrees, is far below the melting point of the solder used on the rear sight collar. So the issue you raise is not really an issue.
I got a deal on a case of projectiles way back when, Sierra BTHP Match 69gr, my RRA likes them, however the Hornady BTHP 75's out shoot them. anyway, nice gun, peace out dude - Dave
The reply thing is acting a little weird. Anyway, back in the day like when I got my Colt H-Bar the 69gr SMK was really the only option. It is a near perfect combination for a 20" AR or even a 18".
@@lencac7952 My RRA has a 20" S.S. Wilson Wilde Chamber Barrel (Not Wilson combat) though, It's all free floated and weighted with lead, same with the Buttstock, it is the N.M. of yester year when open sights were the only option, it has a White Oak N.M. trigger, It will shoot better than I can.
Hiya Mega: You know how to hurt a guy don't you? 4895 to boot. Perhaps you should get a lottery ticket too!! What do you think about Russian warships including a boomer in Havana harbor?
Hi Rob: Springfield Armory doesn't even make NM M1A's anymore. Yep, barrel is a Criterion Stainless NM 22" 1-10 RT. NM sights front and rear, NM flash hider, Sadlak spring guide. It now has a Shooting Sight match speed trigger, unitized gas cylinder/stock retainer with Sadlak piston, Schuster adjustable gas plug. I built this rifle from a standard M1A
@@lencac7952 Thank you for the reply! I didn't know that they quit on the N.M. Rifles! I just bought a gently used standard with the mossy oak stock. I'll be putting it into a walnut, and going on from there. Be safe, and God Bless.
Hey dude. I like that you put together a shooting video, Man,,, you have a knack for stating what we all should be doing with our rifles, getting the most out of them. Btw, (Shoulder) I was involved in a accident at work and have had mutable surgery's, it's going to be a while before I'm behind a rifle, shooting is off the menu for now. Anyway, God be with you buddy and peace Man - Dave
Hey Dave! Very pleased to hear from you. Sorry to hear about your accident. Being you've had multiple surgery I know the accident must have been of a serious nature. Obviously I pray your stuff gets healed up properly so we can have our old thorsaxe back. Out of curiosity what kind of work were you doing when that happened? I haven't done many vids lately primarily because most of the reloading stuff I'm using is very difficult to replace and very expensive. Primers are non-existent. And being I'm shooting 30 cal. the stuff I use is very much in demand so it's all pretty much always sold out. The ammo. I'm using in the AR is stuff I loaded years ago. Fortunately I have quite a bit of that still. Great to hear from you my friend (-: Dave
Hiya Michael: Being I don't hunt I primarily shoot paper for group as you can see from my vids. I also realize that in reality each rifle has it's own personality and liking certain loadings and projectiles. Two of the same rifles may shoot the same bullet a bit differently. I suppose a guy, with bunches of time, money and effort could find the sweet spot on a particular rifle. But you know as well as me that's not the real world. Especially now. And being I'm not hunting I'm not trying to shoot dinner plate size groups at 500 yrds. either. Trying to shoot dime size groups at 100 yrds. Sounds easy but it's not as easy as one might think. And I'm assuming you are using the 340 to hunt with. Can't imagine someone using that for shooting groups only on paper as it's main purpose. And if you do I feel sorry for your shoulder. I say all that to say this. To a degree I would agree with you. The ELD's don't shoot bad necessarily. But they don't shoot spectacular either. Plus I find that the EDL Match bullets shoot a tiny bit better than the ELD X. Oddly enough it seems the rifle that shoots the ELD's the best are my K31's. So I use the ELD's simply put is because that has been the only bullets on the shelf in the caliber and weights I can use. I would prefer Sierra Match King bullets but I can't find any of those on the shelf. Not to mention the powder and the primers are non-existent. Anyway. thanks for letting me cry on your well bruised shoulder. Thanks for watching and commenting. God Bless (-:
@@lencac7952 Completely agree with your assessment on the ELDs, and I’ve also been forced out of my comfort zone because of the unavailability of supplies, and have tried a lot of new products. The new IMR powders, as well as Lever Evolution, and CFE Black, I really like, but would have never tried them if I’d been able to buy 4064, 748, and H-322. The ELDs simply didn’t perform like the old interloks which I’d worked up with Re22 to 86 grns. In fact, those long ELD went so far into my case, 82 grns ended up being my highest charge I dared to go up to, and never found an accuracy node along the way, but as you stated, every rifle is different. I did eventually get more 225 and 250 gr Interloks, but I’m loading them with IMR 7828 after my supply of Re22 ran out up here in Alaska. The 7828 shoots almost identical to my Re22 load. Again, another powder I would have never tried if the shortage hadn’t happened.
@@lencac7952 anybody who hates watching pointless shit. You could've just shown the sniper shot or fast forwarded the running. The first 90% of that clip was an absolute waste of time.
That's funny cuzz that's the same nit picking shit I would have said too. Except if I were you I would have added "that's 53 seconds of my life I'll never get back", right? Oh, and BTW you still didn't answer the question. Answer the question then you can filibuster.
@@lencac7952 what question? any question you asked was answered, and I will comment however I please. And if you know that you hate watching videos like that then why waste the time to upload it?
Well ain't you the uppity You Tuber. The question was posed in my first reply. That's the one with the question mark after it. Which you still have not answered. My initial observation is you appear to be a bit light in the loafers on humor and humility with an over abundance of hubris. But that's ok because God loves you anyway.
Nice shooting Len. Love it when you bring out the old military rifles. 👌 I feel your pain regarding costs involved in reloading. Back here in the UK it's made even worse by the difficulty in finding any components ie powders and primers. If you do find any useful gear it's usually double if not more in price compared to a year ago.
Hiya Burville: Much appreciated. Yep, the primers and the powder I use is non-existent. Haven't seem large rifle primers in like 2 years now. And because the powder I use is pretty much what everyone else uses too it likewise is non-existent. Pathetic! The old "wooden" rifles are still pretty cool. However, this 03 with the steel buttplate did black and blue my shoulder. Ok Burville I'm out. Take care.
Hello John: I'm flattered to see you would have me work on your Marauder (-: If I had a reasonable way to make that happen I would. Not that hard of a job actually. Very few tools needed. There is a couple tips I'd be glad to share. Nevertheless it is a must do type of thing. Let me know how it comes out.
Hi James: If I remember it's a Redfield mount and rings set-up. Kind of old school but that's how it was done back then I suppose. Rotary dovetail on the front and the rear is to adjust the windage by the opposing screws. But good luck trying to find one of them critters now. I would have to say I put this rifle together some 30+ years ago when stuff for 03's was easy to find.
Hey Mega! Hi dude. I find it awesome that you are checking on me. Love ya brother. Overall I guess I'm probably better than I deserve. Just haven't done much range time lately for reasons I'm sure you are already aware of, availability and cost. However as your timing would have it I just got back from the range. Did a range test on a pair of AR's I recently put together. It will take a while to sort through the video and put it together for posting. So when I get the editing done I'll post it up. How bout you brother/ How are you holding up. Shit is getting pretty scary. The short version is if DJT does not get put back in his rightful place we lose big time. And this time there will be no coming back. Honestly I think it's already too late. Anybody who thinks the deep state is going to let DJT waltz back into the WH I think will be greatly mistaken. L8R brother😁
@@lencac7952 , I've been good thank you brother.. Bought a few new toys and built a 18" heavy barrel target rifle"America's Rifle" pick up a few powders but everything is so Expensive now in Buyden's World and I agree their throwing everything they can at him.. Can only hope he gets back in for the good of the country.. This Friday I'm posting a video on my K-31 in the description I mentioned your channel hope you don't mind.. Y T is censored most of our channels.. MB ..
Of course I don't mind you mentioning my channel. Thanks. However I do want to see your K31 video. Great minds think alike. At this moment my machine is rendering the video I made earlier today. So in light of your build I'll give you a guess on what you think my video is about. When it's done I'll get it posted on Screw Tube. I think you'll laugh when you see the video. Peace-out brother (-:
Got the same rifle and ya kind of dissapointing. Mine only likes fed gold medal 168 if i stand on one leg. my ssg 69 also, had to let her go. Now my old school Remington 40x is a lot more accurate.
Hi David: I very much appreciate taking your time to watch my vids. Thanks. I can help you with one of those questions. here's a couple links for the diopter set-up. It's not cheap though. You'll end-up spending more on the diopters than the rifle most likely. www.swissproductsusa.com/product-page/k31-ps-diopter gehmann.com/en/Sighting-Equipment/Rearsight-Irises/ If your eye sight is decent I think the adjustable iris that comes with the Swiss Products sight set-up should be sufficient . But if you have some specific needs the Gehmann link might help. As for working over your K31 for various reasons I no longer have the ability to do that work. Shame too as I've made some damn beautiful K31's. Ok man, hope that helps you out. Let me know how it goes. Peace out. God bless.
Well I suppose then the question is; how much higher is the Aimpoint over the iron sight? From there that call would be arbitrary, yes? But looking at the Aimpoint Pro I'd say you would want a riser.
Absolutely stellar project and an incredible piece of work by the amazing master. I can’t express how much I would admire having a K31 in my hands like this. I need to communicate with David .
Memories...Firstly, thank you for sharing your review on this scope. I just happened to be looking for information on these scopes in particular when I came across your review. To my astonishment, when you backed out from your close up of the scope, I recognized this rifle. It was once my father's gun! It was one of many custom rifles Jim Gruning had built for my dad. Around the same time as this build, my dad also had Jim build a custom 6.5X284 for me from a Tikka Master sporter. My dad bought two of those scopes, the other one still being on my Tikka. We used to shoot in a lot of long range competitions back then. Some of the best years of my life. I've recently dusted of the Tikka and have been contemplating getting back into competition, hence the research and subsequent finding of your video. I can't thank you enough for sharing. I hope that you have enjoyed that rifle as much as he did. P. Tidwell
Hi Phil: Amazing! That is way cool. So you have shot this rifle? I tell you what the Gruning is an absolute beast. I have thoroughly enjoyed and gloated over the Gruning for I'd say about 12 years or so. It never ceases to amaze. Like I have on the gun case "fear the Gruning". If you had to guess, how many rds. do you think it had on it when left your family's possession? So I assume you are west coast too somewhere? I likewise assume this was meant to be like a 1000 yrd. rifle? I did take off the Springfield scope and install an Arkin Optics scope. Here's the Gruning running the box test with the Arkin scope if you're interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f8X237u_gfc.html Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to download this video . I’ve learned a bit today . I have a question if you feel up to answering it . If the cases are loose then surely they will allow blowback when fired . Is this so . I get they are military loads and a bit of blowback wouldn’t matter as much as your round chambering when you need it to . If your target shooting you take that play out when resizing right 🤔
Hi Nikita: What you are taking into account is the fact that when fired, before any gas is released from the mouth of the case the case will expand to fit the chamber circumventing any occurrence of blowback. Nevertheless, I've had GP11 cases that I've reloaded already a few times split where the cup meets the shell. Even when that occurred there was no blowback. A testimony to the integrity of these rifles.
@@lencac7952 7.5 x 55 Swiss PPU cases . 175 grain copper jacketed .30 cal bullet . 33 grains of VV N140 with CCI large rifle primer . Cases once fired and sized using Lee sizing dies and firmly crimped . I’m getting some blowback and the cases show evidence of this . I’ve got some 220 grain round nose copper jacketed bullet coming so hopefully this will sort this issue . Longer bullet with less taper than a boat tailed ELD 🤔
Don't know what to tell you my friend. I've never had that problem. GP-11 fits very loose in the chamber. Have you tried some of that? Something tells me you're missing the boat somewhere.
@@lencac7952 1889 - longer , tapered throat I think . Going to try a heavier , longer , round nose bullet . Hey I’m on A4 paper at 100yds but not tight groups . Maybe I’m expecting too much . The journey has started and I won’t be happy until it’s a minimum 2-3 inch group at 100yds
Well, there you go. I assumed you were shooting a K31. I've only had one K11. I think the projectile being used should have no bearing on what your concern is. Have you shot GP-11 ammo. from it. If so what happens then? The chamber on Schmidt Ruben rifles (m1889, m1911, k11) is slightly different. The shoulder on the K31 chamber is .010" wider than the shoulder on Schmidt Ruben rifles. Try some GP-11 and tell me if your issue persists
My issue with the standard SA mount is that the screws constantly loosen and throws my scope off less than 15-20 shots even with lock tight. I’ve had this issue for years
Hi broskie: The thought that comes to mind immediately is the mount is not fully seated into the receiver slots........... IMHO. I had to do work on mine years ago for the same reason. With files and bluing die. Go to the 10:16 mark. You see the slots and the face of the receiver where the fastener hole is? You want to make sure the mount is flush against that face on the receiver. Make sure the protrusions on the mount do not interfere with that happening. That's my thought. Two big things. The dovetail insert needs to be rock solid. The one you see in this video I drilled and tapped it for set screws. Cuzz it was a loose fit to start with. I recently replaced it and the new insert fits 1000% better. And the other is that face to face contact at the front screw.
@@lencac7952 I’ve always had my mount fitted flush and tight to the receiver but I’ve always still had issues where the screws would just loosen on me but I did notice that you did drilled holes for additional screws on yours for support but I don’t really have the tools to do that currently. I did order a Sadlak mount but I’m still waiting for it to come in the mail
Call Springfield and order a new insert. They obviously did something because it's not going anywhere. IMHO, a huge factor, for me at least is to take mount off you don't have to separate the scope from the rail. I've done Sadlak mount also. It has it's own set of finicky stuff. The M1A platform is hard to get a scope mounted properly. I say don't give up on your SA mount. There is no reason why it shouldn't work. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4CEXzqHB3o8.html
@@lencac7952 sad news today. My Sadlak mount came in today so I tried putting it on but the hex screw for the Sadlak mount completely scripted the threads of the receiver on my M1A. I really don’t know what to do now I read the instructions but I don’t know what I did wrong. This really hurts me
That is sad news. Can't say as I've heard of anyone having that happen. Usually it seems the thing that gets stripped is the fastener. But to do that I think it would have to be extremely over-tightened. I suppose at least it won't affect using the combat sights. I wonder if a heli-coil would work. Sorry to hear that my friend. let me know what you decide to do. Chow
I just got my M1a waiting on the rings but have the mount, just installed it. Just to be clear when you are talking about adjusting the windage from that rear bolt you do it by turning the insert screw right? The lock nut has nothing to do with adjustment? Sorry f its a dumb question.
Hi Uneasy: Yep, you are correct. The adjustment of the insert against the insert you put in the dovetail is how to do that. And not a dumb question. Not asking questions is dumb. Also I cannot stress the importance of making sure the vertical and horizontal rail on the mount seats fully into the slots in the receiver. Thanks for watching and the comment.
@@lencac7952 Enjoyed your efforts on your rifle and video. My son and I collect USGI equipment and as correct firearms as possible with our budget. Bought a Gibbs 1903A4 because it filled a niche and was considerably cheaper than an original. I had no idea when I bought it how much I’d actually enjoy this rifle! With the iron sights removed, and the slender minimal nature of the M73 scope, the rifle really feels, and points, like my dad’s old pre 64 model 70. Think I’m going to carry this come moose and caribou season here in Alaska this fall! Beautiful backdrop in your video, and kinda reminded me of a range outside Boise Idaho when I lived there 20 some years ago.
Hey Michael: You know years ago I almost bought the Gibbs 1903A4......... almost. Keep in mind I had a unissued 1903A1 I found at a gunshow years before that. That was in the later 70's and I paid $600 for it. Which was not a cheap rifle back then. It was unissued and was new. But it had a unique set of marks on it. It had 3 stake marks under the serial number. IMHO I believe the 1903A1's were the finest of all the 1903 models. With the possible exception of the hand built NM 1903's. Anyway, one day I saw an ad in the back of one of the gun magazines for a guy who would install the sight mounts for the USMC M1941 sniper rifle with the Unertl scope. So I sent him the barreled receiver. When he got it he was stunned. He stated that back in the Korean war years he was an armorer for the Navy and he was tasked with rebuilding the M1941 rifles that were in storage from WWII. He would rebuild the old M1941's and install a 10X Unertl scope as opposed to the 8X scopes that were put on them in WWII. He stated that the 3 stake marks on my receiver were to designate these as hand built 1903A1's and were intended for use as M1941 rifles but would needed to be upgraded to make them M1941 rifles. He said 1000 of these were built and put into storage in the event that the Marines needed more of these. So when he got mine he was surprised. Said he had never upgraded one of those as there was no need but he was aware they existed. He installed the Unertl scope mounts and sent it back. Instead of getting the Gibbs I decided to build this. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VyqBzHTReok.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BCHaUXdlLE4.html
@@lencac7952 Wow! That’s some old rifle. I started with an M1 Garand back in the late 80’s because I couldn’t afford an M1A to shoot in DCM matches. My son and I now have all the manufactures of the M1’s, and a pretty nice 1903 Springfield from 1923 (I believe they were all “target rifles” during the inter war period) with scant C stock, a 1942 03A3 from Remington (two groove barrel), and a Winchester made 1917 with the worst looking barrel of the bunch, but it cleaned up and shoots .311 diameter bullets as well as the rest. The Garands have really gone up in price like everything. My first one was $325. The ones we have bought in the last few years are all 2k a piece🤷♂️. I had an old school teacher who had been the Service Wide Team Coach for the USMC Rifle and Pistol team through the 70’s. CWO4 Doyle Gracey encouraged me to do service rifle competition after I got out of the Marines in 1994. My uncle and grandpa had been WWII vets, so I’d grown up on all their stories, so I guess its part of the reason we’ve invested in these old rifles so heavily! Wish I could attach photos (knew how), and I’d send you a photo of our collection. I also use to work at the oldest gunstore in Boise Idaho, Shapel’s. Old man Shapel was also a WWII Vet-always appreciated the Garands and 1903’s that we’d get in! Thanks for your link. Take Care Sir, and have a Blessed Day!
Thank you, very educational! This was never explained to us in the Swiss Military sharpshooter training back in the mid eighties. All we knew, it is a dead accurate ammo!😊
So you live at 2200 feet? Where is that? Maybe someday I could bring my Springfield M1A Standard and we could do some shooting at the range. I have mine set up with a M6 Bayonet lug flash suppressor, I've epoxied a bipod lug into the drain hole of the stock for a 25" Harris bipod and I have a Springfield 4th Generation aluminum scope mount mated to my receiver with a Sig Saur Sierra BDX scope on it. My aim was to have a Florida jungle gun that I can hunt wild hogs with, bayonet ready for a boars rush just in case, and yet have a scope and bipod in my backpack in case I come to a clearing and see a 12 point buck 2 or 3 hundred yards away. I have the bore sighted in but I haven't programmed the scope and rangefinder for my ammo (I'm shooting M80 ball, reasons for that later) and I need a spotter. I figure to get the scope dialed in for a 200 yard shot with a cold barrel, and then get the barrel hot and put a second program in the rangefinder (or is the computer in the scope?) for where the barrel is gonna put the bullet when it's hot. The BDX system is why I got the standard instead of going for a National Match. If the computer will compensate for the different ballistic characteristics of different ammo, it can certainly compensate for the different temperatures of the barrel, right? And besides, I won't be trying to shoot a deer from 500 yards away. A gust of wind in this Florida humidity can leave a wounded animal I might not find later. I want to be able to reliably put one in the heart of a deer, or just behind the ear of a hog, breaking his neck, so I won't have to track a wounded animal down. I'm not at all like Elizabeth Warren _says_ she is. I do have 1/16th Cherokee blood, but my tracking skills suck.
No, that's the DA (density air) meaning the physical altitude is 1400 ft. but at that particular time and conditions the air was like being at 2200 ft. I don't hunt dude. I just shoot paper at this point.
You might find this interesting. Maybe not. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bAyjpJlXZyw.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YXkVlkZZEyU.html
@@lencac7952 Carburetors were never my thing, but I understand them. Still I missed out on the "missing part" contest that Nick Panaritis (Nick's Garage) had on his bone stock Hemi he built. I was kicking myself for not noticing, but he built that whole engine and showed it close up from top to bottom and everything was there: The ballast resistor, the condenser, the coil, all where they would have been on a factory Mopar, except one thing he said was missing. Spot that missing part and you won the contest, but *_I missed the little asbestos wrapped choke heater tube that goes from the little hole in the drivers side exhaust manifold to the choke box!_* Drivability was not my thing. I was first a suspension and brakes expert and then was promoted to Automatic Transmission. Suspension and brakes are not considered anything a dealership service department needs any experts on. Hell there's still guys taking a pick and pulling the boot on rear wheel cylinders to let the assembly lube out and then going and getting the customers and showing them the "leak" to sell them new wheel cylinders, *_and half of them really believe they're helping their customer!_* And here's the real crime: *These guys get made "Employee on the Month" over and over because they're flagging 100 hours a week!* I averaged 40 hours a week, but I humped to get it as a "front end man". I always went the extra mile and I almost never got a comeback. For instance, you may have heard the old "less caster on the left" to compensate for road crown, right? Well that only works on cars with that old Saginaw steering gearbox. Take any Rack & Pinion car and dial in 1/2 degree less caster on the left and that sumbich will pull to the left on a flat road. But it won't on a properly adjusted Saginaw gearbox, and here's why. You may have seen one apart before, so I'll assume you can visualize this but the sector shaft that is the output of the gear and has the Pittman arm attached to it, has five teeth and the center tooth is the biggest. They engage with the piston that the fluid pushes back and forth for hydraulic assist. There's an adjustment for the sector shaft because that center tooth is tapered: push it down and it will push the piston towards the side of the cylinder. The piston is sealed with teflon rings that fill the gap so the fluid won't leak past the piston, just like piston rings in an engine. Here's where the adjustment of the sector shaft comes in to eliminate any pulling to the left from the "less cater on the left" that all the specs called for on those cars. To adjust the sector shaft (on the bench) you would put an inch pound torque wrench on the shaft and turn it as you adjusted the sector shaft bolt with an Allen wrench *so that it would take an **_extra 100 inch pounds_** to turn it as the sector shaft went over center.* This sets up the gearbox to resist going over center: As it gets closer to center it starts to "bind" a little. It's not actually binding, it's squeezing those teflon rings. Now when you do the alignment and set the caster less on the left, you're not done yet! The "rest of the story" requires you to make sure when you set the toe in that the steering wheel is about 1/2 degree to the right when you're going straight ahead. I never had a customer complain his steering wheel was crooked, but every time I insured the gearbox was properly adjusted and the toe in was correct, I had a car that would compensate for road crown pretty darn good, but when on the flat interstate it went straight as an arrow and once pointed straight, it would not pull to the left. So I'm damn good at suspension and brakes. About brakes, you know what "cross drilled" and "slotted' rotors are all about? Those two things are *_ONLY_* about wet braking, when the brakes are wet as hell. Under hard braking those pads will boil the moisture out so fast that the steam coming off them will oppose your pedal pressure! So if you drill holes in a pattern or cut slots and see that the steam gets let out constantly, you'll have better braking under wet conditions. But don't be fooled, dry braking will be compromised. You see what we're doing with brakes is in actuality turning the kinetic energy of the vehicle into heat, and the heat has to go somewhere. That somewhere is mainly the rotor and when you remove mass from the rotor you reduce it's ability to absorb that heat. So my advice is to just do the drilling and do a pattern that covers all sections of the pads without too many holes. Slots lose effectiveness as the rotor wears down and they take too much contact area away from the pads. Holes are best. When they promoted me to A/T's I did very well there. The thing about A/T's in a dealership is the ability to scam expensive parts from warranty that you can then give to paying customers so you can competitively rebuild transmissions instead of just R&R'ing SRTA's (Service Replacement Transmission Assemblies). I'd have a $700 pump I got from warranty for an oil leak causing a shift concern that I called a failed pump, turn in a burned up pump from a pickup for instance that the TCC never engaged on, in to warranty, and have a brand new pump to give to a customer that needed a new one. If he had to buy a new pump, the price would be $400 more than a SRTA R&R. But if I had a pump to give him he'd save $300 and I'd get a 14 hour transmission rebuild job that I could do in 8 hours, instead of 6 hours R&R'ing a SRTA that took me 5 hours. I was good too. My transmission rebuilds NEVER came back. The thing bout A/T's is if you know what to look for and are meticulous in your rebuild, they will last as long as any new one, and I had one of the best "Automatic Transmission _Men"_ I have ever run across as an instructor at the Atlanta GM Training College, 'Dot' Huff. (the 'Dot" stood for Dorothy and she was a Black woman) You could take a 440T4 with the most innocuous of shift anomalies to her, and just by driving it, she would tell you what one part to look for and sure as hell she would be right. So call me Robin Hood, the Transmission Man, that's what I called myself. So glad to be out of that crooked business. I'm proud that I never crooked a paying customer. Scamming warranty? Sleep like a baby.
That's a good one. I am very well aware of those tube covers from back in the day. Don't know if I would have caught it either. Can't begin to even tell you how many carbs I've done. You front-end and transmission guys, I tell you what, you look like 20 miles of bad road @5:00. I spent my days chasing down check engine lights, evap systems, ign. sys, fuel sys, you know driveability. At the end of the day Paul Inman, who was the trans guy, good one too, would ask me "well sparky did you get any spark plug dust on your hands today?" I'd tell him "you're welcome to come over and get you some "drive" work any time you want. He'd say no thanks. There's a lawyer a doctor and a Ford technician. They go out on 3 hour pleasure cruise in the Caribbean. The boat springs a leak and sinks. They find themselves on a deserted island. The doctor will keep you alive long enough to starve to death. The lawyer will make you rich suing the boat company. The Ford tech will have you back by lunch because he's working flat-rate.
@@lencac7952 "20 miles of bad road @5:00" LOL! I've got a drivability story I'm sure you'll be able to relate to. Early in my career, when I was the front end man at Youman's Chevrolet in Macon, GA, Robert Watts the Service Manager gave me a Policy R.O. (warranty time, the dealership is gonna eat it) for a 1988 Chevrolet Full Size Conversion Van that had a 350 4bbl in it with 24,000 miles on it, and a "consoled" dog house and said, "I want you to replace the EGR valve on this." So I went to parts to draw the valve and the "Hi Tech" Mike Hooks (appropriate last name) who was a cocaine freak came in and said, "Watt's wants you to put an EGR valve on that van, right?" and I said yeah and he said, "When you get the dog house off, you're gonna find the hot air pipe from the exhaust manifold is off. *Don't put it back on."* I asked him why and he told me all about the Thermac system! I didn't know about it at the time. You can skip over this but I'm gonna explain it if there's anybody else reading this. The Thermac system was designed to control the temperature of the air going into the carburetor. There was a small valve inside the breather, on the inside after the filter, that measured the temperature of the air going into the carburetor. When the engine was cold, it closed a door to the snorkel of the breather and got all of it's air through that 1-1/2" pipe Mike mentioned that went to a metal "stove" that pulled air from around the exhaust manifold. That manifold got hot real fast and heated the air up within a minute or two and the little valve inside would sense that heat and start to open the door to the outside "fresh" air from the snorkel that was cool. As the engine warmed up that valve would find a stable temperature and just the right blend of air from the heated stove and from the snorkel would be just the right temperature. All of the other calibrations for the jets in the carburetor were based on that temperature, not to mention the engine's need to get enough air when you floored it, trying to pass somebody on the interstate going 75 mph. And this is why Mike didn't want me to put that pipe back on. He said, *_"I told them they needed a carburetor overhaul and I'm gonna get my 8 hours."_* (Customer pay time for that job was 8 hours. Warranty doesn't pay for carburetor overhauls, never has.) The van had 24,00 miles on it and he's telling the customer he has to pay $850 (dealer rate was $100/hr then) *because his carburetor is dirty and warranty won't pay for it! **_AT 24,000 MILES?_* This was the complaint: "Van doesn't have the same power when trying to pass or go uphill." And this is what caused the comeback complaint. We had a guy, Robert Justy who was the LOF, wiper blade, air filter guy. He made 8 hours a day humping those 0.3 hour jobs all day long. He looked like 50 miles of bad road at 5! lol! That van had been in for maintenance 2 days before for an LOF, wiper blades and an *_air filter!_* See it yet? Robert had found out (maybe Hooks told him) that if you take off the top of the air filter and remove that long rod that goes down to the carburetor, that you can move the 3" spacer and shift the breather over and get the air filter out *_without having to take the dog house off_* which on those conversion vans was a bitc#. *_But doing so would pull that hot air pipe off the stove!_* ...and Justy didn't know that, hell he never got past the 3rd grade in school, his dad had him plowing as soon as he weighed 150 pounds. Great guy though, one of those friends who would get out of bed at 3am and come help you get your Ox out of a ditch. And since the pipe was off, that little valve inside the breather sensed cold air all the time and kept the snorkel closed, choking the engine for air through that 1-1/2" pipe! THAT's why the engine had no power going uphill. And that crook Mike Hooks knew it! I put the pipe back on and the van was never back that I know of. That's when the assistant Service manager saw what I was capable of and sent me to all those GM schools in Atlanta and trained me to be the A/T specialist. I got Special Electronics, Engine Diagnosis, Vibration Analysis, 30 classes along with Automatic Transmission basic and advanced. So when I decided to move the family to Bradenton after my father got a heart transplant, on my vacation I went into Conley Buick and asked the service manager if he needed any techs, he said no. I told him I was an ASE Master Technician and he said he didn't hire anybody who wasn't a Master Tech, and then I handed him the computer printout of all the classes I had taken at the GM Training College in Atlanta. He looked at it and without looking up from it while still reading, held his hand out to me and said, "When can you start?" Good managers know the industry is jam packed full of crooks like Mike Hooks, and many of those managers act like the three monkeys, "See no evil, Hear no evil, Speak no evil". But Herb Holley who was the Service DIRECTOR at Conley Buick at that time knew that guys like us who have brains and are well trained, are their saviors when the crooks get the dealership in trouble. And as soon as Herb found out a guy was crook, he fired them.
Not long after I retired from a career as an ASE Master Technician having been trained at the GM Training College in Atlanta and worked at Chevrolet, Buick and Cadillac dealerships I bought a brand new Marauder in 2004, lol. Mine was one of the last ones off the floor of the St Thomas assembly plant in Canada so it has the 4R75W transmission. Since they discontinued them for the 2004 year the first things I did was install an automatic parking brake release and an electric fuel door release (no "thumb" bend on the door). The next things I did were all suspension and brakes. First I got a KVR 14" front rotor kit with cross-drilled rotors and stainless steel braided hoses front and back. The car now comes to a complete stop from 60 mph in less than 100 feet. Next I installed Metco billeted aluminum rear control arms and Watts links that have polyurethane bushings, they're all tighter than Dick's hatband: No lateral movement at all from the Watts links. Then I put in an ADDCO 1" rear stabilizer bar and QA1 dual adjustable shocks front and back and got some rear rims that were widened 1-1/2" to take Nitto Street Drag Racing 305/45R18's on the back and matching 235/55's on the front. The sidewalls of the rear Nitto's clear the shock rods by only 1/8" but they never rub the tire, that's how tight the Watts links are. Last but not least I had a Torsen T2 differential with 31 spline axles installed. These mods turned the car into a roller skate on a rail. I can go into a hairpin turn with one of those 500 horse 2-seater Mercedes' or BMW's right on my butt, wait until the last second to hit the brakes and scrub off just enough speed to make the turn, then downshift full throttle from 3rd to 1st gear and those Nittos not lose any traction because that Torsen is doing it's job, differentiating, NOT locking up, losing traction on the inside wheel like the factory Traction Loc differential did. I'll come out of the turn with the chase car 40 yards back! They ALWAYS stop trying and often turn off the road like they were going that way all along, lol. The Torsen is THE thing for street racing. Traction Loc and Positraction is for 4-wheelers on muddy farms and straight-line drag racing, not the street. On wet or icy roads they're both flat out dangerous, especially at low speeds and increase the chances of spinning out dramatically. But if yours is still factory, you already know that.
Oh, the PCV system is the one thing (and the first) that the DOT required for emissions that actually is a benefit to the durability of the engine. *Matter-of-fact it is a GREAT benefit because it lubricates the intake valve stems!* That little bit of oil your thing-a-ma-gig is catching would have been in the intake charge, going past the open intake valve stem, lubricating it perfectly. That tiny bit is not enough to foul your plugs anyways and is better being burned and catalyzed by the catalytic convertor than to be winding up in your garbage. Before PCV, the intake valves used to have no umbrellas on them so hopefully the oil splashing inside the valve covers would get some oil on the stems so they wouldn't wear out the guides in the head. One drop every ten minutes or so would do the job but not every valve stem could get the drip so before PCV, we used to get valve jobs all the time. Many engines need one every 30 or 40 thousand miles and most engines would foul the plugs when the guides got loose, sucking tons of oil in through the worn guide.
Hey ladamyre: Sounds like you made a badass Marauder. They are a pretty nifty vehicle. Damn comfortable too. Anything done with the engine? Do you still have it? I was going to do much of things you mention but then I was "terminated" from my job at Rogue Valley Manor for refusing the jab. So I pulled my horns in a bit. The Panther platform is one of the best ever. Without a doubt the panther platform was the vehicle I worked on the least at the Ford dealer (I was a driveability tech). You went the GM route while I went the Ford route. Interesting. Although years ago I did go through the GM Automotive Electronics and Semiconductor Devices classes. Interesting take on the oil separator. Aspect I did not consider. Good point though. Don't know if you saw my short video, "what's in the box" which shows I got a complete Gen 3 Coyote engine. To be honest I was thinking of putting it in the Marauder but after some research and it is so original and in excellent shape I decided not to. Giving thought of selling the Marauder and getting a project Mustang that I'm not concerned about altering. Plus I want something that is a bit quicker. Great write-up ladamyre. Thanks for sharing my ASE certified brother 🙂
@@lencac7952 Jerry Barnes made a supercharger kit (the "Trilogy") for the Marauder back in 2002 and a lot of guys got them, it's an instant 75 extra horsepower and probably 100ft/lbs more torque somewhere low, maybe 3500. But I didn't get one because in my opinion the car is too heavy for that kind of power as is. Cops were wrecking their Panthers all the time and they pretty much had the same brakes and tires. That's why I went the suspension/brakes route first. And I'm glad I did. "Quicksilver" (that's her name, she's Silver Birch) *_is_* badass and always surprises those rich boys in their BMW's. I do think I have the record ET for an un-modified engine on a Marauder: 14.455 seconds and if I remember correctly about 96 mph. I did that at the Bradenton Motorsports Parkway back in 2005 on test and tune day right after I had put a Diablosports 2004 Mustang Cobra tune in it (same engine), but I had also taped the grill off with clear shipping tape to get the air to go up and over the hood, an old drag racers trick, so I think most of that 1/2 second improvement over stock (almost all of the Marauders over the 3 year run ran right at 15 seconds at 92 mph) was the trick tape. I got the Diablosport tune to remove the RPM limiter in the PCM. I once had her going the full 140 coming down off the Sunshine Skyway Bridge at 3AM. I had gotten an MMX 200 mph driveshaft back with all the other suspension mods and had gotten a set of vr speed rated Yokohamas on it (up to 149mph) for everyday street driving (I have two sets of rims, long story) so I got the full speedometer reading, once. Here's where those dual adjustable shocks paid off big time. I had them adjusted so the compression stroke was easier than the rebound stroke, and at speed, unless the road is smooth as glass with absolutely no ripples in it at all, those little micro dips and rises cause the shocks to compress lower and lower making the car squat down closer to the road. At a buck-forty the car sits about an inch lower! I wrecked her ten years ago, some mom with her kids in the van turned into me as I was passing her going about 100. Lucky nobody was hurt, she even drove her van away. My right front tire hit her left rear and broke the lower control arm. It's been sitting in my garage on the back burner for ten years, but the new house got built and soon I'll be putting a lift in it (it's a one car garage) and that will be just right. I'll get Quicksilver fixed, get the body work done at Costantino's and be able to park her on the lift and then park my 2009 Grand Marquis underneath her. Or vice-versa depending on my mood. lol Next project after that - mounting a Powerglide transmission to the pinion of the rear-end and driving the 2 speeder with electric motors, motors charged by two 48 volt alternators running off a serpentine belt mounted on the rear of the engine. By my math, 200 ft/lbs going into the input shaft of the Powerglide and being multiplied by the 1.82 first gear ratio (364 ft/lbs output) and that multiplied by, say a 5.88 gear (I'll be running the transmission and the rear end on ATF so I can run it through a cooler) should make for 2140 ft/lbs at the axles, almost enough to strip those 31 spline axles! But here's the rub. You know what the formula for a 1/4 mile run is: After the lights turn green it's how much power the engine can make divided by the weight of the car. Almost every run will fit into this formula within 1 tenth of a second no matter what else is done to the car. But with electric motors driving the transmission, we can put in a bank of super capacitors and store up megajoules of energy _before we even get to the starting line!_ And running those electric motors through a well built Powerglide, there will be no RPM limit and that 2000+ ft/lbs of torque will be smooth throughout the run, no gaps and no hesitation. Full G's from start to the finish. My guess is we can get Quicksilver the world record at 9 seconds flat and still be 4500 pounds, street driveable and sleeper as hell. Now about how to hide that mandatory roll cage... oh, she'll be crossing the line at 150+ easy.
I forgot to specify the rear end part of that plan. It will, of course, have to be an independent suspension rear end, probably a Corvette 12 bolt. (So long Metco Watts links and control arms. I'll put them on my 2009 GM.) And I'll have to have an engineering firm make an electric front pump drive to run the pump on the tranny since I won't be using the torque convertor. These should not pose too much of a problem. With enough gear reduction those electric motors will be able to put out 200 ft/lbs through an RPM range well adequate enough for 200+ mph, and that before the thing shifts into drive! If things pan out like I think, I may wind up at Bonneville so I plan to rebuild her solidly, no plastic "buttons" holding the bumper covers and fender pants in place. All blind nuts with bolts torqued in place. Quicksilver may gain 10 pounds in fasteners alone, not to mention the matching leather padded roll cage.
I feel pretty good then. I got a 14:77 @ 93.79 mph just the way it drives on the street. The DA was 2200 ft. pretty hot evening. 4:10 axle and a tune, 3/4 tank of gas. Still had the stock throttle body and air cleaner. I trust you've seen the video. I think just lighten it by maybe removing the seats and spare, low fuel and a cool evening I think 13:90's is real possible. So are you telling me your Marauder is wrecked and been sitting for 10 years?
Hi niner:: I'm sure that won't be easy as there is only one correct stock for your action being it is all serial numbered to each other. However, you might try Numrich Gun Parts Corp or Simpson Ltd. Good luck on your hunt. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hiya Dave: Glad to hear from you. Likewise, you and your family have a great and blessed Christmas. It may very well be the last somewhat normal Christmas we'll be able to experience. This next year will be full of booby-traps. It is a nice AR I built. I've been watching some stuff on the buffer systems on AR's and how the weight of the buffer and the spring pressure affect the operation. The way I have it set-up in this video it does seem the buffer is not actually hitting the back of the buffer tube like it was with the low mass buffer was. I recently built two other AR's that I have outfitted with the low mass stuff. But on those I installed adjustable gas blocks. So hopefully I'll be able to get the same result by tuning the gas system. Should be an interesting range test. Ok Dave I'm out so be cool and don't drool Love ya brother.
Hi burville: Good to hear from you. Likewise for you and family to have a blessed Christmas. Might very well be the last somewhat normal Christmas we get to experience. The next year is looking very dangerous. Question: being you are in Wales is there something there called the Mach Loop where the photographers make videos of military aircraft flying by?
Hi Len yeah quite an unstable world at the moment. Mach loop is around a 40 minute drive for me. Snowdonia mt is visible from my house. I get to see quite often USAF aircraft flying around really love that sort of thing. I follow a channel on YT Elwyn R. He has some great content.
Hey phone: Thanks dude much appreciated. And likewise, have a blessed Christmas as well. What's more is today is my B-day. I'm going to put you on the spot, how old do you think I am? I've been keeping track for a while now and I think we must be in some kind of time distortion (-;
