So here's what I did, I swapped out the ignition coils from bank 1 and bank 2 clean them up with some brake cleaner and the cold went away. So is my problem my ignition coils? I already replaced the spark plugs and the control valve solenoids.
No shit sherlock i really a p0307 code would come out of a 4 cyl engine.. PS anyone that replies KEEP DIGGING WATSON FU 2 ... FYI Your FIRING IS WRONG DEWMOSS...
I got this code on a Mazda 5 less than two weeks after it had been serviced. I found something online and sure enough the tech must have opened the air filter housing to check it and didn't get the entire housing back in its proper place. After making sure everything was secure and clearing the code it has been fine. I check gas mileage every fillup and as long as the car is running fine these codes can be bullsh*t. Another money grab to get you to come in to pay $150 for the dealer to read the codes.
Where Ami’s that Simple Fix you promoted with the title of this video.. and every other cylinder video which Btw Are all THE Exact SAME VIDEOs!! Wtf. How annoying and to be straight with you insulting.. as I didn’t hear any simple quick fixes. But a laundry list of somewhat difficult system checks which specialized tools are needed along with the experienced eye of a seasoned mechanic to point out the subtleties of the operation performed and what they are telling him about the misfires and there root causes.
I’m currently shopping for a used work truck. Surprising how few owners have ever changed coils & plugs. People really expect cars to run forever without maintenance.
Replaced all 4 plugs on my 2016 Hyundai Elantra. Still getting the code. They still needed changing though. Saw a thing on another video. Get a low voltage pen. $15 at a hardware store. Touch it to the coil while the engine is running. If the light doesn't come on it's bad.
hey fixd, will your code reader tell you why the code is present? meaning, can it tell you a wire is broken, sensor failed, etc? can it also tell you that the vehicle has been in an accident that wasn't reported to insurance?
Hey people be careful whit this website were they sales this FIXD sensor I buy one last week and they been trying to take money of my debit card I have three charges for $99.00 I been trying to find a contact number for this website or company be careful with this rats 🐀
I have a jeep patriot 2010. Showing some strange lights on the dashboard, which was, """throttle body problem and stability control indicator""" which i knew bfr buying FIXD. After all minutes of scanning and diagnosed it could not it could not help to fixed the problem and not clear all the error lights.
Wished I'd have known that it's a $50 a month fee to have this thing idling if you don't have a check engine light on.... If I owned an auto shop it'd be great but I don't..
I can’t find a single penny. I haven’t had to touch a penny in years. My wife said go outside on the street to look for it. And it struck me: I haven’t seen a penny in stores since the pandemic either.
Not correct about the battery. Battery that can start the car should not have any problem making sparks at spark plugs at all. Conversely, battery that cannot make sparks will never be able to start a car. This is because it takes 1000x more power to crank the engine by starter motor than making sparks.
I had this problem happen to me today. Out of no where with no prior signs that something was up, my vehicle began to shake as I was driving. RPM was high, and the car started to become sluggish. When I pulled over to turn off the car and to turn it back on, the car died within seconds, I started it again, and the car died within a few seconds again, and this would keep repeating. I finally tried ruffing the engine immediately after turning the car on, and that would keep the car alive. As long as I kept my foot down on the gas pedal the car would not die. As soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal within seconds the car died. My check engine light is on too. I was finally able to get the car in gear before it died again, and I took my car to autozone to have my check engine light scanned. It showed engine code P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire. The guy at autozone told me to buy a new ignition coil and plugs. I bought 4 new plugs and ignition coils that cost me around $300. I had a relative put those parts in for me, and the 4 new plugs and ignition coils did not resolve the issue. It's still wanting to die after turning on the car, and I have to keep turning the car on and ruffing the engine until I can finally drive it. The car is sluggish after idling or after a complete stop, but starts to drive normally as I build up speed. I can get my vehicle up to 60-70 mph without any issues. The engine light is on, not blinking. But when I start to slow down to come to a stop, I feel the car vibrating, and jerking me a little at each voom voom voom and you can hear it go voom voom voom (I hope you all know what I mean), but improves during acceleration. At this point, I am thinking the problem is the fuel injector, it's not ignition coil or plugs, and it doesn't matter what ignition coil is in cylinder 2, it's always #2 that is misfiring. I had a friend tell me that it sounds to him that it's the timing belt. Anyways, I am taking my vehicle back to the dealership that I bought it from on Tuesday. I bought it used 22 months ago at around 110,500 miles, and it's at 135,150 miles now. It came with 36,000 mile warranty when I bought it. I hope this is covered under a level 2 warranty otherwise I am SOL if this is hundreds of dollars out of my pocket to fix. Just in case if you are all wondering, my vehicle is a SUV a 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T AWD.
I have the EXACT same issue. What did they say for yours? Took it to dealer, changed coils, plug, and injector but misfire remains. I'm at 76,000. They say replace engine but still checking other options
@@AL-vo6ne after the diagnostic test from the dealership, they said the valve in cylinder 2 broke and a piece fell down into the cylinder. There was no compression. They told me the engine is done, and I need a new engine. The extended warranty company is fighting liability. They forced the dealership to tear down the engine to find the exact cause. They just now got the engine tore down, and I am waiting for an insurance adjuster to go out there and inspect it and make a decision if they are going to cover it or not. Over 3 weeks without my car, and I'm only this far. I'm beyond pissed! They are really dragging their feet with this whole process. Trying to find rides to work over the last few weeks has been a challenge. I had to burn almost all of my vacation time because of it. Yeah, I'm not happy. Hopefully, I will know something tomorrow or Thursday if they are going to cover it.
I have a 2011 Honda Odyssy 3.5 been getting the code 302 changed the spark plugs and it soiled the plug again in 2 weeks so I changed the plug and coil and 2 weeks later got the 302 code again not sure what else It could be
To anyone who’s automotive educated; If a radiator fan is constantly running, wouldn’t a properly working thermostat opening and closing help regulate the temperature to its operating state thus making a running fan not an issue?? Only wondering bcz I keep having this code pop up occasionally. Looking at date, code came on when engine was at 165F and vehicle was still in a closed loop. Rpm was around 3400 when the code was capture. Currently pending a thermostat replacement so hopefully that solves my issue.
I got a P0420 code and couldn’t pass emissions. Dealer wanted $4k to replace the catalytic converter. I got some CataClean for $26. After about 100 miles CEL disappeared. I passed emissions later that day.
