I'm here to show you how you can do not only the most basic home repairs but also larger home renovations. I try to get down to the very basics with step-by-step instructions to help the most beginner DIY'er. Most videos are filmed on-site at actual jobs, with a few from my own home sprinkled in. Your home is the most expensive asset you have but you don't need your repairs and renovations to be the most expensive costs you incur. With my years of experience and hints and tips there's no reason you can't tackle those honey-do lists as well as those renovations you've only dreamt of up to now. In my Rental Rehab program, I work extensively with homeowners & property managers to make their rental properties top notch to not only give them the best return on their investment but to make the experience better for the renter as well. I'm a firm believer in the philosophy that a better rental property nets a better renter, which benefits everyone involved.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Thanks again for your tips . . . haven't tried anything (other than checking the flapper, which is functioning fine, as per your video) but expect to shortly, e.g., cleaning rim jet and/or siphon hole. One other point I wanted to note: My toilet functions better after a bowel movement, as it appears that the weight of such causes it to go down better. If it's only urine or toilet paper, that doesn't go down as well. Just wondering if you ever experienced such. Thanks!
Hi Wogger, my problem is unique, my toilet is only 15 days old, so no calcium build up. No siphon hole at the bottom either. I have taken a picture of the hole in the back of the toilet and to me I think it is too low, as the water flows fast but it hits the front of the toilet bowl hard and splashes out, and it will not flush properly, need to pour half a bucket of water to get it to clean it out. Is there any way to rectify this problem. Thanks.
From what you describe it sounds like a poorly designed toilet. I would return it and get something better. A really good toilet, which I install all the time, and have them in all the bathrooms in my house, is this one by Glacier Bay through The Home Depot: Glacier Bay Power Flush model# N2450E (Link: www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Power-Flush-12-inch-Rough-In-Two-Piece-1-28-GPF-Single-Flush-Elongated-Toilet-in-White-Seat-Included-N2450E/308702440). One of the best flushing toilets for around $150. Right now it shows they're on sale for $129. Also comes in a round seat if you prefer round. I'll hopefully have a video out on it in the near future. Good luck with your project and comment on your outcome.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Thanks for replying so fast, I am here in India, and returning it is not an option, they will not take it back. so I guess I am going to have to do some thing about it. I am thinking of putting M Seal and creating a little barrier to slow the flow down and do it in a way that will force the water into the middle of the toilet bowl. Will keep you posted of the out come.
Yup, vinegar is a great alternative, and as a homeowner you have the time to let it work and it's usually on hand. As a service provider we need something that works a little faster.. after all time is money... Also, if you're clearing out calcium on fixtures, vinegar is safer on the finish. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your projects.
Yeah, unfortunately there's no way to approach this subject without getting down and dirty. pretty much why you didn't see my face much during the actual process. I was wearing a deep sea divers bell helmet with piped in fresh air.. haha. Thanks for watching
I was completely terrified because my water heater never quite stopped dripping, but this totally worked! I cranked very softly in small increments so I didn't accidently rip the PLASTIC drain off, but everything went really smoothly once I got it off and the new one in the hole. THANK YOU!
Wow! Richard on ATOH is/was my go to guy for plumbing but now I got another source for plumbing related issues! Well done! Very meticulous; perfect explanation; best I've seen! Thanks! 🚽
Thanks for the video, very nice explanation! I have the same issue as you demonstrated, I have cleaned the discharge hose and the disposal nipple and the air gap, they all seems to be fine without clog, any idea why water still coming out from the air gap? Shall I just replace to air gap and discharge hose as the next step? Thanks
As long as you have a clear path from the airgap into the disposal, you shouldn't have anything coming out of the air gap, unless there's something lodged in the air ga which is preventing the water to get past the air gap. Look down into the air gap and see if you can spot any blockage.. you can use a pair of needlenose pliers and pull the center piece up and out of the air gap to clean it out. If you still have issues you may want to change out the air gap. Good luck and post the results.
Works like a charm. Being a maintenance mechanic by trade, I'm surprised I never thought of this before. Looked at the old valve when I took it out and you can see the o-ring inside is damaged. I wanted to add a photo, but I don't know how. Excellent video.
Thanks. I thought the same thing when I learned this years ago.. how did I not think of this before. Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Those of you on septic systems are a whole different breed, but if you do the bucket test and it flows out then I'm guessing the septic tank isn't full.
Sorry you feel that way. I try to make my videos for the novice who has absolutely no idea what they're doing and needs as much detail as possible to get the job done. So many videos say "put this in there" or change this out", but they don't actually show you how to do it, or why you're doing it. Instead of just showing you the "how", I also like to help you know the "why". That's because not all situations are the same, and blindly doing something without knowing why you're doing it could result in you spending time and money to "fix" something that didn't need fixing. If you just need the nuts and bolts of changing it out you're more than welcome to skip the "why" parts and jump ahead to the "how". Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Hey my brother replaced the plastic drain valve on the water heater without draining it and it didn't break. It was kind of bitter sweet though because he left the the shower on with the drain plug closed before doing this and the bath tub overflowed with a lot water on the bathroom floor. What a mess! He was trying to used up the hot water just in case the plastic valve broke on the water heater.
Well that sucks. He kind of defeated the purpose though by using up water that he could have just drained direct from the water heater.. Lesson learned I guess. thanks for watching.
Degreasers are great for getting the fresh oil from the surface, but I haven't found one yet that is good on pulling the old stains out of the concrete. Also, degreasers used in the food industry (for vegetable and food-grade grease) are a whole different animal (pun intended) than oils from vehicles (petroleum and synthetic).. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@joannhutchinson3030 Do appreciate it and food industry degreaser is great for certain areas. We had a job to clean the grease from the asphalt around a commercial dumpster and it was from a restaurant in the center spilling their grease. I wished I knew then what I know now re different types of grease. Your suggestion for food industry degreaser would have been a godsend back then.
Under the video you'll see a brief description of the video followed by "...more" . Click on the "more" and it will open up the entire description, along with any links. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
Thank you for this. I will be priming the mudding where I have just enclosed a previous door opening. If I prime only the area where the door once was is it going to look different than the rest of the wall? Wondering if I need to prime the whole wall.
As long as the rest of the wall was properly painted previously, you shouldn't see a difference, but if you want some piece of mind, and if the wall isn't that big, you can prime the whole wall. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
unfortunately, things wear out over time so as long as you repair the source of the leak properly, whether its a leaking shower drain.. a worn out wax ring under a toilet.. a broken drain pipe or a hole in a water supply line, you've done all you can. There's no way to prevent life from happening. Of course you can always change out the seal in your shower drain, or change out the toilet's wax ring every few years, but there's still no guarantee an issue won't happen. thanks for watching
Sitting here watching DIY plumbing videos while my water heater drains so that I can replace the valve… watch this video, and D’OH that makes perfect sense, but my heater is over half empty already, so I don’t think your trick will work now. If only I had subscribed to your channel a year ago and seen this _before_ I started. But I’ll know for next time 😉 As an aside, a plumber told me that I should replace the whole water heater not just replace the valve, he claimed that the tank itself will start leaking soon, his logic was that, because I had installed the water heater in 1988, it it now out of its warranty and won’t last much longer. I figure it’s lasted this long, I may as well keep maintaining it however much longer it does last, I drain it every year, and replace the anode rod every 4 years, beyond that it’s not much effort to maintain.
1988? 36 years.. that water heater needs to go to the Smithsonian. lol I agree with you, that if it's not broke, don't fix it, although with a water heater it will eventually leak, if something else doesn't go wrong with it first. With that said, if the water heater is located in an area where leaking won't cause any damage to anything, or if you have a spill pan under it so when it leaks the water is directed to a safe location, then run it as long as you can. However, if it leaks and it will result in damages from the water, then a proactive approach to replace it is best. If you haven't seen my video about spill pans and why they are important, please give it a watch. There's a link to it at the end of this video, or here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jf-9I3G02tY.html In the mean time, do periodic flushes and change out the anode rod every 2-3 years and hopefully you can keep that water heater funning another 36 years. Thanks for watching, and good luck with all your projects.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks for the advice! My water heater is in the basement right next to a floor drain, so I’m not worried about a leak. As far as replacing my drain valve, I’m really glad I drained the tank first, because it was a plastic valve, factory installed without Teflon tape (I think they used pipe dope, but maybe not even that), and I snapped the valve as I was struggling to remove it. I had to borrow a huge vice grip pliers from a buddy to get the remaining part of the valve out of the tank, I would have had water going everywhere if I hadn’t already drained it. But I still like your technique, just wasn’t right for this particular circumstance. My suggestion for anyone trying to swap a valve without draining the tank would be to stop and drain *if* you are having trouble removing a plastic valve, you don’t want a broken off valve with a full tank.
Prime first. Flashing will "bleed" through additional coats of paint. The best way to stop the flashing is to prime over the area. Thanks for watching.
When done right, there should only be a very small amount of water that comes out, and placing a towel down will absorb it. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
Wonderful video I have very hard water with lots of lime. I learned a lot. I'm not fixed yet. I agree nothing down toilet especially on a well water and septic tanks. I married a city man who is still learing no paper towels or butt wipes or we will be pumping the septic every year. Oh yeah and dumping a beer down the toilet doesn't solve the problem!!!! Thanks for the video
That would be a waste of a perfectly good beer. Well water and septic systems give you a whole separate bunch of "fun" issues to think about.. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
If the holes are small enough to be covered by the end posts and still allow a toggle bolt to grab, then you're still good, but if they holes are to large the only option you have, unfortunately, is to patch the holes and move the towel bar a couple inches left/right or up/down since the patch won't be strong enough to support the towel bar. Wish I had a better solution for you. Thanks for watching.
That plastic drain valve will probably break when trying to take it off and water will be everywhere don't you think? So shouldn't you just drain the tank first?
If you feel the plastic valve is compromised or is so corroded there may be the chance of it breaking then you should drain the tank. This is why in the video I mention having the drain pipe on hand just in case, that way you can avoid a mishap. thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for your video I was watching other videos and everyone said to take out all the water but suddenly this video came out and I changed the whole plan much better save a lot of time and money thank you for sharing those secrets🙏🏼
I just got finished watching your video very informative. I’m gonna try to at home since I have a toilet that actually doing the same thing not flushing everything out. Yes I’m talking about poop Richard Hamilton from Elizabeth New Jersey when I get a chance this Sunday I will be doing that working on it. I’ll have more free time to do that so thank you for your video is very informative. I don’t know why I don’t know this since my father was a master plumber but I didn’t work with him that much anyway, thank you for your video.
Hello. Im missing the rubber end/connector on the dishwasher hose that connects to the inlet of the air gap. I have a new hose but I cant remove my dishwasher because the tile is too high and no matter what I do, I cant raise the bottom over the lip of tile. Anyways, what can I do? I was thinking about adding silicone to the air gap inlet, installing the dishwasher drain hose (corrugated gray hose), lightly tightening the clamp, then let set for a day and finally tighten the clamp fully. OR I was hoping those rubber universal connectors would be able to fit INSIDE the end of the drain hose so I can glue it inside and clamp and then affix the other end to the air gap inlet. But it seems that the other end might be too big (7/8s vs. 5/8s)? What are your thoughts? Thanks
Hate it when tilers lay tile up to the dishwasher, instead of removing it to do it right. Have had numerous instances like this.. some times we've been able to lift the countertop slightly.. other times we've had to remove some floor tiles and then retile it afterwards. The issue you have with the end missing off the drain hose to your dishwasher is fixable. If you are near a Home Depot or Lowes you can pick up a new end connector (Home Depot SKU# 688045). You may need a stiffener in the drain line to keep it from collapsing when you tighten the connector. You should be able to find a barbed connector there that will slip into the drain hose and the rubber end to provide the support needed. If they don't have one you can just get a piece of pipe that will fit inside the drain line, cut a piece about 2" long to act as the connecting support. Hope this helps. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching.
Yes. The Kilz original spray primer is excellent for this (red can. Home Depot SKU 822388). This is an oil based spray primer that will give you excellent results.
