get yourself cubitron flat discs with backer or flap discs. go around the tube in an up and down {with the curve} not side to side {long ways} this is how you avoid flat spots and thin spots in the tube. when you get the welds knocked down run over it with scotch brite discs to condition the metal and remove all the paint prior to weld. little friendly advice from a tube fabricator ;)
I’m trying to do a 5.3 twin turbo I’m wondering what is the best size turbos to run that won’t be to big and cause lag which ones u think are the best to run with least lag but most performance
I can’t do it!!!! Lmao too broke haha it’s Calvert Mono leaf’s for me!! But for how much power I’m making and the rest of my chassis working good like it is now I would be dumb to change it, I really just got it working on the hard tires with the new long travel Nicky Bobby setup up front went a 5.8X @12Xmph on a 275/60 M/T sportsman 440 treadwear hard tires on a bare street according to the draggy but I honestly love my old leaf spring setup I’ve been pretty fast with it
Number one rule of true car people, gear-heads, and mod/tuners is we never insult the projects of other car people gear-heads, and mod/tuners. The finished project may not be to our liking and we may never do what the other person did. However all of us acknowledge that the person that did the work picked up a wrench and made the vehicle their own. Remember, encourage others to pick up the wrench, do not discourage nor insult a fledgling car person, gear head, nor mod/tuner. It is a likely a reproduction panel. The hole is being installed for a very worthy reason, not just some wannabe vent.
Thanks for the video....I dont know what happened to my V band connections, but all of a sudden the connections at the Turbine housings started leaking really bad. Im about to hit them with that RTV and hope I can get my tuned dialed in again.
I would agree the welds look cold, especially on the pass side. The welds also look a little contaminated. mild steel usually has a coating that you need to get off with a good 80 grit flap wheel. Get the metal to where it’s shiny. Pour the heat in initially to start the puddle then back it down with pedal and start moving the puddle. Also I had the same trz coilover kit and had issues with the spring diameter. I used Viking springs and the kit was designed with Afco. I though I had clearance and it wasn’t until I lowered the car onto its weight that it hit. I had to trim the supporting bracket piece of coilover kit almost in half to make it clear. Just a heads up. It’s a pita to trim afterwards 😂
Man I really cleaned the hell out of it. Flat disk acetone and wire wheel a couple times I think. You’re the second person to say heat is too low so thinking that is def part of the issue. I had my heat at 160 and full tilt it was really burning good. I guess even more is next lol
Looks like you had a #8 or 10 cup. You should only need 15-20 cfh (flowing), or argon. Too much argon can actually cause problems with arc control. Welds looked a little cold, except where you said you started doing good. With that thickness of metal, I would have probably set my welder at 140-160 amps and adjusted with the pedal, and 1/16 or 3/32 er70s2 filler rod, and I pretty much use a 3/32 layzr tungsten for everything. Remember, over 100 amps you need 3/32 tungsten or bigger. 100+ will blow up a 1/16 tungsten. Try some welds, with pulse. You'll need a tad more amps on pulse, but give it a shot. Do some test welds. Set the pulse at 1.1 to 1.3, per sec. That's where I like mine. My small tig is a Lincoln tig 200. Pulse with help you with rhythm, too.
I was wondering if it was an argon problem. I do have a gas lens on it.. I figured that would slow the argon flow down a little? But I am using 3/32 grey tip tugsten
@@Rev2lateRacing Without the gas lens, you'll get more turbulence, especially with that high of flow. Gas lens will slow it down and control it better. I use gas lens for everything. Grey is a good tungsten. You'll have better control with layzr at lower amp settings and 3/32. Usually at low settings you'll have better arc control with a 1/16 tungsten. Layzr is a one for all tungsten.
what engine are you using, are you using gm power steering pump, if so what do you do about pressure differences that flaming river wants that are alot lower than gm power steering pumps
You weren't wrong to buy the Tin Soldiers kit. It is expensive, but buy it once and be done. You don't save money by half assing it 3 times. Now you have room to grow.
