Join me in my barn, as I fix things and share some encouraging words. God has blessed me with an ability to fix almost anything, but I particularly like to work on small engines. I like ATV's, UTV's, go-karts, jet skis, and anything else that burns gas and goes fast! My videos are 100% family friendly. My goal is to provide content that entertains, give some tips and tricks about fixing stuff, and share the love of God.
I am in the process of rebuilding my swisher 44 rough cut. It has been a beast for about 5yrs. About a month ago, the shutoff valve on the fuel tank broke and up in flames she went. I just rough mounted a 24hp vtwin on it and now i am waiting for the engage cable to come in and she should be ready to get back to work.
Wow! I broke mine a few times but never burned it to the ground. The engine upgrade was a huge improvement for me. I had to modify the suspension and clutch spring because of the new motor though. The other thing I always wanted to do was change the cable clutch to electric clutch. That should save a bunch of belts!
Amen brother. I love your videos.. i have a 6.4 powerstroke that #4injector was going bad.. it was spuddering at every stop light. So i had someone change it out, they actually told me that it was the bad injector. After it was replaced, all the spuddering stopped, but now every time the engine gets warm, there is thick white smoke. No check engine light. The truck runs fine with no problem. Do you have any advice for me?
You realize that Ford designed a self destruct style emission system, right? To clean the soot from the DPF , Ford , in all there brilliance, thought that dumping vast amounts of fuel in the rear 2 cylinders every so often, would get the DPF glowing hot & burn off the soot... Never mind what it does to the cylinders and oil... ya don't need oil in the cross hash, and diluting the engine oil with diesel is great for a long engine life... interesting fact>> the military used the 6.4 successfully. the only difference was, THEY DIDN'T RUN THE >DPF< EMISSION DESTRUCTION SYSTEM. (NO SMOG)... imagine that, without the super soaker smog system, no issues.. They make a ecu add on that stops the diesel hose down from happening.. I guess after 100k miles, the rear cylinders are glazed and burning oil with low compression.. Did God allow Ford to be used as a tool to test our patience and resolve??? Q: does your windshield leak water into your fuse box like mine and thousands of other super duty's ?? It's only a issue with trucks from 1999 to 2015 or something. after 20 years of leaking, they probably thought about bringing it up to cooperate to see about a fix.
Just bought a 97 this year. Guy said it needs a mpem. Figure out it was the vts shorting one of the fuses. Still won’t crank over but I will figure it out. Love the fact you share Gods word. Be blessed brother
@@barntech2291 Keeps you out of jail for sure! God Bless All Yall! Good you made another good video. All my stuff was worn out too..Only way we can afford stuff. Free is best!
Thanks for the content. You are an inspiration for me, it seems like im working on my truck every 6 months or so, sometimes gets very overwhelming, im greatful for the Internet and guys like you for posting content like this, helps us viewer's out tremendously. I own a 3rd gen 5.9 cummins that was abused and neglected, i know very little on the powerstroke and really dont care to, but this video helped me out a lot. God bless
I suspect the cracked crankshaft started it all. Something I missed in the previous rebuild. That led to the rod bearing, which plugged the oil filter. Once the oil filter split that took out the turbos and other bearings.
I just purchased a used 6.4 with about 230k on the truck, it’s was an old farm truck, I purchased it at an auction site unseen, it was involved in a front end accident not so bad, the radiator is gone, blew the power steering box out, and tweaked the front frame a little bit. I am having it sent out to a frame specialist to recenter everything and he is the best in my area, then I will send it out to a local diesel repair shop to have them look through it because yes I know the problems that a 6.4 can have. It looks like since this truck was a farm truck, it has been deleted and what I can tell tuned but not confirmed I just hope the truck will last for what I need it for 😅
all that damage happened because your using a junk aftermarket filter.. it came apart and pieces of it got down into your oil system and probably plugged that oil gallery that lubed that rod journal and destroyed your engine !!! i cant stress enough to use the oem filter and cap !!! you saved a couple bucks on a cheap oil filter and it destroyed your engine, now your looking at thousands of dollars in repair...
Curious how many miles on this. Did it have the emission system still on it? I have been very lucky with my 2008 6.4 that was deleted since nearly new. 323,000 miles with just a starter and batteries. Auto trans replaced at 278,000.
I bought it with a cracked piston at 159k. It was already deleted, so I’m not sure that helps. I don’t know why some get lucky with the 6.4 and others don’t.
Sorry, I don’t. I used the engine and electrical components from a Craftsman mower and wired it like the mower. Also, I modified the tensioner spring to make the belt tighter so it wouldn’t eat so many belts, but that was before I started RU-vid.
I'm finishing up my rebuild at 365k after my oil cooler plugged up and a lifter ate itself away on my cam during a 2400 mi vacation. I bought a remanned short block and damaged a HP line while installing it back in the truck. Of course i found the leak 2 days after I finally got it back on the road. Anyway, I feel your pain....my only question is: If you chose to buy a new crank. after metal contamination, why "check" the lifters, oil cooler, turbo lines, etc? I would think you'd want all of that replaced without question. I re-machined the heads, lapped valves, seals, BUT new: oil cooler & pump, rockers. bridges, pushrods, lifters, turbo innards, and a new fuel pump (just because of the mileage). Flushing the cooler? why bother when they're so cheap. oil flow is from the cooler to the filter and then simultaneously to the turbos and lower block sooo. Hell of a video! Great job!
Flushing the oil cooler was a waste of time. I tried, but I could not remove all the debris. I ended up replacing the cooler and flushing everything else (turbo rebuild, etc). It takes more time to do it this way but it my philosophy is “It only needs what it needs.”
I just got mine back on the water but its kind of doggy on acceleration. Once it gets up and on plane it runs well. Any suggestions? Brand new OEM carbs, pop offs set correct. Accelerator pumps primed. Idles fine out of water, barely idles in water. Oil pump is set to OEM mark and RAVE valve rebuilt so far.
I would start by making sure there isn’t a vacuum leak in any of the fuel hoses between the tank and the pump. Then I would open up the mixture screws until it bogs and turn in 1/4 turn from there.
Yes. The shims actually went in the mounts below the driver and passenger feet though. Unfortunately the pop came back worse than ever the next time I lifted the cab. I think the cab mounts I bought on eBay were too hard.
Wow. Major props to you sir. You did a full blown engine over haul on a 6.4 - at your house! Also, can you show more details on how you lift up the cab? Thanks.
6.4s are interesting, it seems like there’s duds that’s no matter how much you put into them they won’t ever work right. And there’s others that are dead reliable and run forever even if you beat on them
I bought mine from Dynamic Diesel Performance and Machine. They don’t sponsor my channel, but they had what I needed in stock, including original Mahle gaskets, bearings, lifters, and upgraded MaxxForce pistons.
My rear diff blew a hole right through the casing. I found a replacement for fairly reasonable price. Able to highlevel provide the disassembly/reassmbly steps? Thanks in advance
It has been a while since I did it, but I think I showed the process in my video. A few things to keep in mind: 1) you will need a really deep socket to remove the pinion nut. 2) the hardest part will be removing the old bearings from the shafts, and 3) the new pinion nut must be sweged to prevent it from backing off later.
Great video man love the content just replaced the pistons and bearing everything within spec but went to maxxforce 7 pistons since the stock ones were prone to cracking, my truck runs like a top i have 2 more of the hpfp from other engines and always wanted to take one apart and rebuild on just in case mine takes a dump. Now i feel more confident thanks
Great you were able to put ‘er back on the road! If you do the HPFP be careful to put the rotary pump back on the right way. I put mine upside down and it ruined the pump. I showed it in my fuel injector video.
For all the aggravation you've gone through you've been able to buy and rebuild a 6V-53 and maybe even a 6V-53T with a 6-speed Allison automatic tranny and GO but my old 89 S-10 still hangs together by it's rust particles but I pour in the oil and a little gas and go. All I need is my class-A's renewed and my mom always said that we were/are fearfully and wonderfully made. God Bless Yall!
You, sir, are an inspiration! I have been fighting all sorts of little bugs in my 1993 F250 project, but my problems pale in comparison to the issues you have had! I had a thought as I was watching, in a way, when we save a truck, we get just a tiny glimpse of what it is like when Jesus saved us! Great work, and God bless!
Those old diesel engines are much simpler. If they have fuel and compression you can’t stop them. Sorta like a Christian who reads the Bible and prays! Problems come when we over complicate things :-)
Your attention to detail and perseverance through a project like this is quite admirable. I'm actually picking up a blown up 6.4 truck this weekend which I will be turning into a Cummins powered truck before too long. This will be my second conversion, my first on a ford. Love the trucks and platform, hate the horribly overcomplicated engines in them.
@barntech2291 it really all depends on the exact engine and the exact application of the swap. I've done swaps primarily on GM trucks. My current truck is a 98 K 3500 crew cab dually with a 12 valve and an NV 4500. The SES light is on because the computer does not see many of the sensors it is looking for, but all of the gauges themselves work just fine. In my case it was basically just finding the correct adapters to use sensors like the oil pressure and temp sensor in the Cummins block and plug them in as if they were in the original GM engine. On my next truck which I will pick up tomorrow, I will be doing a common rail 5.9. There are a couple companies out there which you can adapt the Ford harness to the Dodge harness which keeps everything working. It doesn't necessarily mean it won't have an impact on the SES light, but there are some swap kits that have ways around it. I will say, I've never been disappointed in any of the vehicles I've come and swapped to this point. Sure, the 6.4 has a lot more get up and go off the line, but not having to work on them so often is quite a relief.
Absolutely love and appreciate the fearless incorporation of our father Jesus Christ’s words and teachings in every video you produce. Keep it up and keep your head up and if it’s ever down have it in the word!! Appreciate your time, content; and love for Yahweh! Emmanuel my brother in Christ!! God bless~
This is amazing! So glade i found this channel. I have an 09 6.4 F350 as my daily driving farm truck. Currently it is in the driveway awaiting some attention in the engine after the engine decided to throw a temper tantrum and blow light colored smoke and loose power and weep horsepower all over the pavement to the nearest parking lot, where it began grumbling😢
If you are lucky you just overheated and blew a head gasket (not necessarily in that order). More than likely your heads are cracked and/or piston #8 has a hole in it. Your best bet may be to find a complete running engine on marketplace.
I really admire your approach or concept with this difficult project. I know how you must have felt after it finally started🙂. Even without a shop lift, you are still able to lift cab! Please how and where did you attach the ropes to the cab to lift it?
I put the front straps by the front body mounts and the rear straps on the rear running board mounts. It puts a little pressure on the back doors but they bounce back.
@@barntech2291 Thank you for the explanation! I saw the video you tried to explain it a little bit, but I could not see how you did it. Please can you make a special video about this clearly showing how you attached those straps to the cab body? This will greatly help me with my cab removal using a gantry crane!
I did a lot of cleaning measuring and torquing off camera. I show just enough to get the gist of what I am doing. I hope anyone who goes this deep in their engine knows how to read between the lines. For everyone else it’s entertainment.
I did a lot of cleaning off camera. I show just enough to get the gist of what I am doing. I hope anyone who goes this deep in their engine knows how to read between the lines. For everyone else it’s entertainment.
