Hi Ken, amazing video! What's the difference between the ones in your video and this ones? Are them the same? Code from eurospares : 70002871 . Thank you!
My wifes is a 2018 followed your instructions by this video and presto! Took my 71 year old self exactly one hour. Had to back up 3 inches from shifter to find the correct harness w/your colors but done and all good.TYVM
Zero issues. I was curious high summer temperatures would affect it, I have noticed slightly higher oil temperatures, but it makes sense why. Arguably, the Pistons get the most heat, they are cooled with oil. If you're not spraying them with oil, there's nothing cooling them. Obviously if you're spraying them with jets of oil, it will remove the heat from the Pistons and transfer it to the oil which then gets transferred to the air via the oil cooler.
@@ExoticCarDIY I’ve 10s cls. I should’ve gotten cls 5s. Btw, thanks for putting out that piano sunroof video, I was able to fix mine as well! All that rattle and knocking is completely gone like a magic.
Anyone else have trouble pulling the plug out after popping the tab? I spent 30 minutes fighting with it before i tried to pull back on the tab some more, only to pull the tab all the way out. Still can't get the plug out after an hour struggle. Am i missing something? 2012 W212 pre-facelift, M157.
carfull, some people have pulled and twsted and ended up breaking it off. TIP, its the exact same plug as the cam sensors up top (see cam sensor video) practice on those, then try the solenoid. I push the plug in to relieve any clip tension, then gentle use a pick to lift on the tab and it come right off
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks for the tip. I did practice on the cam sensor clip and was able to get my pick behind the plug and lift up the tab, popped right off. Victory! Definitely noticed better throttle response, much reduced or non-existent lurching upon takeoff, and better shifting. Can't wait to drive it under more conditions. Thanks again!
I changed 2 motor on my w212 e63. It was me and my mechanic both working on the car. The fact that you did that by yourself somehow, I have no words. Barely got that shit In with 2 people lmao.
Haha, don't want to have to do that again LOL. Few people offered a tip of removing the power steering from the subframe, this might make it considerably easier, although you still have to lower the subframe, you don't have to lower it as much
Great video to summarise the process. I have done this a few times myself and just wish to recognise and acknowledge your video as a great source of information for anyone else thinking of doing the work themselves.
I can understand why some people dread engine out in the 355, maybe I'm weird, but I actually look forward to it. Sure it's a lot of work, but it allows me to put a lot of time and care into this vehicle. Plus I'm just fascinated by it
@ExoticCarDIY I tried may have done something wrong, but I haven't noticed anything too different. It sketches me out to hold the gas peddle down like that over and over. Should I try again?
I like the factory 19inch 10 spoke alloys, I managed to find rear 10x19 cls rears last year in Germany new unused boxed factory clearance just also have to pay import taxes, but fills up the rear arches now stealth look , very happy 😊
I just went through (actually still kind of going through) this exact same process with my '16 wagon. Except as the car is my DD and I drive 20K miles a year, I decided I wanted to stick with 19's for ride quality and wheel integrity. I went with a two piece forged wheel built to my specs, and like you, I took my time figuring out exactly what width, offset and tire combo I wanted to run. I ultimately decided on 19x9.5 ET38 (outside lip pushed out 5mm & inside lip pushed in 7mm) and 19x10 ET48 (outside lip pushed out 10mm & inside pushed in 2mm) with 265/35 and 295/30 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires. Sadly, when the wheels arrived last week I found there was very light contact between my tie rod end and a raised portion of the barrel. So I'm currently working with the wheel company to remedy the issue. I think we're going to end up swapping out the barrel for a 9" wide one (leaving the outside spec the same), thus drawing the inside back towards the outside of the car and avoiding the interference. I'll probably end up dropping back to a 255 tire as well. But that actually pairs better with the total diameter of the 295 anyway. Can't wait to get tires on them and get them mounted!
Luckily, the roads here are great, otherwise I would have stayed with 19s as well. Your rears are going to fit exactly like the cls63 rims in my video. Which in my opinion is perfectly spec'd. The 295 is a much better choice than the 285 since 295 is a full 26-in tall to match the front. Sucks about the front being too wide, but yeah the 9 inch barrel should fix the issue. I wouldn't feel bad about running the 255
I'm here on my own quest to find new wheels for my '14 E350 wagon. It currently has the stock 18" AMG package paint-matched silver double spokes but the rear is tucked in real bad imo 😅. And the forums say the same thing about the front clearance issues. Looks like 9" will have to due 😢 And love the channel @ExoticCarDIY 🤙
@@chrisvmartinez, you can fit 9.5" wheels in the front for sure, you just have to be mindful of what size tire you're going to run and obviously get the offset correct. The issues I had with my 9.5's not fitting was an unfortunate circumstance of how the barrel of the particular wheel I was going to run had a raised section that interfered with the tie-rod end. With a different barrel design or a 20" wheel, the 9.5" would have cleared in all other aspects. I just didn't want to run a 20" wheel and liked the wheel I have selected enough to want to stick with it... even if in a smaller width.
Bonjour j’ai regardé la vidéo et vraiment vous avez très bien expliqué sauf que j’ai pas compris le moment où vous soudez les câbles entre eux vous dites que je l’ai connecté au phare avant. Est ce que vous pouvez m’expliquer en détail comment le faire s’il vous plaît ?
The only soldering involved is because you have to pass wires through the very small area of the door. If you can somehow slip the connector through, you would not have to solder the wires back together. But most people have found it impossible to get the connector through.
You reviewing an EV. The world has nearly ended. I got lent a EQC and it was super fast but made me ill. Looking at a 213 wagon E63. I’m 51. Will I manage to keep a V8 going until I can’t drive anymore. I hope so
@@ExoticCarDIY ‘No’, you don’t know, or ‘no’ they are not interchangeable? I looked at the parts. Looks like the big difference is that, on the OEM 458 header, the ‘flexible weave/mesh pipe” is integrated into the header whereas with the 458 challenge headers, they are a separate part that is clamped to header
This worked like charm on my 2019 E63 S! I have tried where you keep pedal down for 10 seconds before bur didn't notice any difference but this time keeping it pressed for 2 minutes made the difference.
Spray soapy water in the air lines from the pump to the air bag. Most likely it will leak at a fitting. If no leak it found, chances are it's the rear bags them self. Replace with Rmt or arrnott
Si algún millonario que quisiera hacer feliz a un desconocido regálemelo ami ese es el único auto imposible de tener en mi vida que si me gustaría tener jajajaaja❤
Just did it on my 2013 SL550 with the M278. First drive sure felt good! Seems to rev faster and runs very smoothly. Time will tell how much it improves? I disconnected it from the top, very easy!
