Hello Gearheads. I've had a passion for cool cars and their mechanical workings since I was very young. I primarily enjoy building and modifying the LS platform... but I appreciate anything rare, custom, or exciting in the automotive world. I hope you enjoy your time watching my adventures and if you need any help on your own projects, don't hesitate to leave a comment. When you're done watching, please subscribe, and then get back in the garage and get to work!
😂 you must be new here. If screen replacement is necessary you have bigger problems and you’ll know right away since the new sensor won’t read. This engine had zero sludge and I actually proved it when I pulled it from the Yukon and did a few upgrades before swapping it into my 72 C10.
My wife has the same rig, and I was able to replace the sender in an hour. Thank you for the tips! What's strange though is that ours was showing 25 PSI with the engine off! The sender was still modulating, but with a significant zero-offset. Anyhow, thanks for the video!
glad you got it fixed and did so quickly! I am not surprised by the symptoms you had (25psi when off, etc.) These things just seem to go haywire when they give out.
Was your front right door speaker loud before you installed the amp? If so it probably isn’t an amp issue. My experience was when the factory amp went bad, all the speakers went quiet gradually over time. If that was your case too, then check all the connections to make sure they are plugged in. If that doesn’t work I’d call mobile car audio to rule out the amp being bad. If you’ve had previous car audio work done, I’d be willing to bet some of that previous work has failed.
Hey Jeff, do you know if there is a better Y pipe for the coolant hose than the OEM? Its all plastic, do they sell metal or something more durable somewhere? Thanks
dorman 626-611 is supposedly a "permanent" fix. I stuck with oem since the original lasted 10 years and 100k miles... surely i wont have the car 10 more years and another 100k miles to fix it again... lol
@@JeffLyle fair, good point. My Y pipe lasted 50 000 miles but also at 10 years. Mainly use my ATS for city driving. I guess I'll go with OEM again. Thanks
Probably not. Do you have a check engine light on and can you scan it to see any codes? If you don’t have a scanner, you can go to a parts store like autozone and they can scan it for you. Let me know what codes you get and I can give you most common ideas to what you should look at
Thank you, Jeff for this video. I was able to change the sensor without removing any lines or hoses. My swivel socket was too bulky so I just used a short extension with the 27mm vertically and squeezed in my 3/8 ratchet from above. My sensor wire plug just needed a squeeze against the tab to release. I had to squeeze the tab again because the plug still wouldn't come off completely because it locked again after the initial release. Question though: I reset the P0523 code before turning on the engine but the code is still there. Pressure dial appears to working, giving me a reading above 40 PSI (not maxed out) though. Gauge stayed at zero before replacement. Is there something else I need to do or it working correctly? Thanks again.
I have coolant coming out the back side of my engine and you can see it underneath the car. Can you explain that if theres another tube other than the one up front
Check your heater hoses. Coolant will flow through the heater core behind the firewall and those hoses and their connectors can crack. Let me know what you see!
haha that's pretty funny. I've done that before... left a manual in gear and try to turn over the engine... just doesn't work. However, in an automatic, you can still turn it while in park since the torque converter will let it spin.
@@JeffLyle took me a few days to replace mine but I just got it finished using your method. I accidentally dropped the new sensor which fell further into the engine and that alone took a few hours to dig out. Then putting the electrical connector back on is tough because you don’t know where the 3 prong plugs are aligned. But in all it beats taking it into the dealership and then charging $700-$800 to replace a sensor because they wanna take apart the engine.
@@JeffLylemy hand started bleeding a little and I remembered your comment that “if you aren’t bleeding a little bit then you not working” which is true for this job. Also I’m gonna use that term… the Stealership cause that’s what they are.
Haha glad I could pass that term on. Also a little blood helps you appreciate the hard work you did to save some big bucks. If you ever have issues with your truck and can’t find the right fix, make sure to reach out to me… I’ve seen it all!
Absolutely. If the screen is the problem you have bigger issues. I’ve proven that if you regularly change the oil and have no sludge issues the screen will be clean. Thanks for watching.
so they say i can leave it out is this alright and i wasnt hitting at you for the screen being left i just didt know if i can clean it or what ever all i know is my truck runs nice then when it heats up the dinger gos off @@JeffLyle
No worries! Yes you can leave the screen out. In fact if you ever do a DOD delete and replace the valley cover with one that doesn’t have a VLOM, then there won’t even be a provision for the screen.
You can also clean it if you want to keep it. However most people end up tearing it when they remove it unless they take the intake off to get more room.
Hey I have the same code of p06DE and was wondering how it went and the location of the solenoid itself I read that it’s above the oil filter but I just want to confirm and did replacement of the solenoid worked and clear the code?
Yes, I replaced the solenoid and cleared the codes and everything works fine. The hardest part of the job is getting the exhaust pipe out of the way to reach it.
Yeah it’s hit or miss. Sometimes a random tool or screwdriver works and sometimes you find out in 3 months that the belt was stretched too much and starts squeaking horribly.
Start to finish with the video took me about 3 hours. I've also driven the vehicle nearly 2,500 miles since I did the fix just over a week ago and I have no issues. I took the car all the way from Dallas to Phoenix and back and it runs great.
Yes it was leaking due to the air getting in the system causing the fluid to foam up and expand. The fluid would leak out of the cap. I didn't have any leaking occur at the seals though.
I had this problem before with my 2013 ats4 2.0t awd I took it in and cost me around $340 so I found your video and I went to the Amazon link you’ve got and in the reviews it says the braided hose is short I’m just wondering if you actually did order from that link so I don’t get screwed with having to wait on returning and ordering another part ?
do you see anything leaking on the ground? If so, you'll have to look very closely starting from under the car and moving up to see if you can find the leak. I like to do this with the car hot so the system is pressurized. If there is no visible leak and you dont see coolant on the ground, then check both your coolant and your oil to see if any mixing is occurring. This could indicate a head gasket issue. If that is the case, you may see white smoke from the tailpipe too.
Let me know if it works for you. And if it is still a little noisy try a bigger o-ring or the oem style o-ring. I ended up switching to an oem o-ring and haven’t had a problem since.
The screen gets clogged only if there is a sludge problem. If you change your oil regularly then you won’t have a clogged screen. I proved this when I pulled the engine and swapped it in my 72 C10 a few years ago. I daily drive that truck and the engine has 237k miles on it with zero sludge.
I had 2013 super clean black AWD 201738 K miles ,I did the LED lights long time ago , then upgrade it to car play and navigation with HMI 2.5 and radio , , HUD , rear air suspension, and instead of 2.0L turbo engine , I upgrade it to 2.5L turbo , tune it , all my self , and its now super Cadi ,,❤❤❤❤
I bought this scanner about 12-13 years ago for $15. It is called elmscan 5 from obdsoftware.net. It's a basic OBD2 cable and some software that runs on windows. Since there is no fancy proprietary things in the computer of these trucks, any basic $30 amazon OBD2 scanner should work just fine.
I tried this with another brand I got but the damn things would just stop working. Sometimes they wouldn’t work with auto light controls, sometimes they’d just shut off completely while driving, etc. According to the manufacturer a cambus was not needed
@@asadianbelifont3875 if you give these a shot, let me know if they end up working or not. If they work, you are going to be blown away by how much better your visibility will be at night. I am confident they will do the trick!
sorry for the delayed reply... I did not experience any shifting issues related to the vacuum leak. In older cars though, some automatic transmissions used a vacuum modulator to assist in shifting gears and they could experience shifting issues.
Turns out I have this same issue , however unrelated to the vacuum issue I noticed your coolant reservoir is completely full where as my car only has coolant in the top half.... Is this an issue? Just got the car a few months ago
Not an issue. Turns out the tank is supposed to be half full. I overfilled my by mistake. If you happen to overfill it though it is not an issue. There is an overflow hole in the top that allows extra to escape.
The filter/screen under the sensor only needs to be replaced if the engine has ever had a sludge issue. I proved this to myself when I took the engine complete out and prepared it for a swap into my 72 C10. At that time the engine had 225k miles on it and I did an AFM/DOD delete and removed the screen. It was spotless. Also when deleting the AFM/DOD system, I needed to replace the valley cover to remove the VLOM and block off the oil ports. At that time, I simply threw the screen out since the valley cover did not have provisions for it.
Here is the link from Auxito for the bulbs I used (apparently they don't sell them on Amazon anymore) www.auxito.com/collections/9012-led-bulb/products/9012-led-bulb-80-watt-16000-lumen?rq=yr_2014~mk_Cadillac~md_ATS~tm_~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam%20-%20Off-road%20Use%20Halogen;%20For%20vehicle%20without%20Headlamps%20High%20Intensity%20Discharge It looks like the ones they sell on amazon are these. The only difference seems to be the advertised brightness of 30,000 lumens. That is nearly twice the lumens. They are a little more expensive but they do have some good reviews though. www.amazon.com/AUXITO-9012-HIR2-Lifespan-Replacement/dp/B0C5WQTG12/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GMBEU1Y1UD1T&keywords=AUXITO+9012%2FHIR2+LED+Light+Bulbs+Mini+Size+80W+16%2C000LM+Per+Pair+CanBus+Ready+Conversion+Bulb+Kit%2C+6500K+White%2C+Pack+of+2&qid=1701951737&sprefix=auxito+9012%2Fhir2+led+light+bulbs+mini+size+80w+16%2C000lm+per+pair+canbus+ready+conversion+bulb+kit%2C+6500k+white%2C+pack+of+2%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
Here is the link from Auxito for the bulbs I used (apparently they don't sell them on Amazon anymore) www.auxito.com/collections/9012-led-bulb/products/9012-led-bulb-80-watt-16000-lumen?rq=yr_2014~mk_Cadillac~md_ATS~tm_~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam%20-%20Off-road%20Use%20Halogen;%20For%20vehicle%20without%20Headlamps%20High%20Intensity%20Discharge It looks like the ones they sell on amazon are these. The only difference seems to be the advertised brightness of 30,000 lumens. That is nearly twice the lumens. They are a little more expensive but they do have some good reviews though. www.amazon.com/AUXITO-9012-HIR2-Lifespan-Replacement/dp/B0C5WQTG12/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GMBEU1Y1UD1T&keywords=AUXITO+9012%2FHIR2+LED+Light+Bulbs+Mini+Size+80W+16%2C000LM+Per+Pair+CanBus+Ready+Conversion+Bulb+Kit%2C+6500K+White%2C+Pack+of+2&qid=1701951737&sprefix=auxito+9012%2Fhir2+led+light+bulbs+mini+size+80w+16%2C000lm+per+pair+canbus+ready+conversion+bulb+kit%2C+6500k+white%2C+pack+of+2%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
Thank you for this video. The first time i looked at the location of the sensor, I thought, no way can I access that. I watched your video, and I thought, there is hope. I have done many very difficult jobs. So I thought I thought, I can do this. I purchased all the parts, sensor, filter, special socket, locktite. I had picks, and swivels. I was still having trouble reaching far enough back to get my hand behind the plastic shroud. To help, I removed the hood, and also the front wheels. This allowed me to sit the car down on wood blocks. Then I used the wheels to stand on which allowed me to easily reach the back. Disconnecting the plug was another chore. It has a double lock. Had to remove the white lock, then depress the second lock. I did both with long screw drivers. Once the plug was off, removing the sensor was not hard. I had to fish out the screen. A pick did not fit inside the screen. I used a drill bit, attached to a rubber fuel hose. The drill bit easily locked into the filter screen, and lifted it out. The filter was perfectly clean, but since I had a new one I replaced it. Then threading in the new sensor, I taped it to the socked to prevent it falling out.Threading in was slow, but successful. I had to clear the code before the gauge worked. All is good. The variable 4-6-8 also works again. Thank you for your video.
So mine has the connector with the lock and the lock it’s facing the opposite direction of me. It’s difficult, I think I have the lock pulled but I can’t push on the clip hard enough with the direction my hand is in. I’m giving it one more try otherwise taking intake off unfortunately
well when you buy a used vehicle off a lot you dont know how it is maintained. Car sales detail makes them look new. I found out mine was probably a farm truck by taking off the fuse panel cover and finding grit in on the base holding fuses. The Chevy with afm also has issues with low oil pressure. The first indicator my engine was having issues was the oil sending unit. Then the cylinder 4 misfire. I ran a quart of transmission oil with every oil change every 2k miles. It took 2 oil changes and my lifter cleared. I don't have the misfire or stabil track issues but the oil sending unit code still pops up and changing the filter will happen soon. Tthe oil sending unit will be fixed too. My son just pull his filter and sensor on his 2013 gmc and the filter was clogged. Good luck on yours
@@mlm7536 Thanks, mine is running great. It now has 237k miles on it and lives in my 72 c-10. I have a whole playlist on my channel that shows me and one of my sons swapping it. I hope you get all the bugs worked on on your truck and you don't find a sludge issue to deal with.
