Here is the link to the new hose: www.amazon.com... This part was $25 on amazon and super easy to replace. ****PLEASE SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE VIDEOS**** / @jefflyle
I have coolant coming out the back side of my engine and you can see it underneath the car. Can you explain that if theres another tube other than the one up front
Check your heater hoses. Coolant will flow through the heater core behind the firewall and those hoses and their connectors can crack. Let me know what you see!
Hey Jeff, do you know if there is a better Y pipe for the coolant hose than the OEM? Its all plastic, do they sell metal or something more durable somewhere? Thanks
dorman 626-611 is supposedly a "permanent" fix. I stuck with oem since the original lasted 10 years and 100k miles... surely i wont have the car 10 more years and another 100k miles to fix it again... lol
@@JeffLyle fair, good point. My Y pipe lasted 50 000 miles but also at 10 years. Mainly use my ATS for city driving. I guess I'll go with OEM again. Thanks
Hi! Are the two bottom tanks supposed to remain full all the time? Because mine do not stay full. Does that have something to do with burping the system?
The bottom tank is not supposed to be full but it doesnt hurt anything if overfilled. I filled mine up all the way by mistake and made a little mess. There is a little overflow hole in the top of it and it will puke out the extra if you overfill it like I did. Mine is about 2/3rds full now.
Hey I have the same code of p06DE and was wondering how it went and the location of the solenoid itself I read that it’s above the oil filter but I just want to confirm and did replacement of the solenoid worked and clear the code?
Yes, I replaced the solenoid and cleared the codes and everything works fine. The hardest part of the job is getting the exhaust pipe out of the way to reach it.
do you see anything leaking on the ground? If so, you'll have to look very closely starting from under the car and moving up to see if you can find the leak. I like to do this with the car hot so the system is pressurized. If there is no visible leak and you dont see coolant on the ground, then check both your coolant and your oil to see if any mixing is occurring. This could indicate a head gasket issue. If that is the case, you may see white smoke from the tailpipe too.
same here, 2017 ATS 2.0 Noticed the connection nipple on the radiator was broken so hose did not really attach to the radiator,, looking at this, the radiator would need to be replaced! SH*T hoping there is a way to attach the hose without replacing the radiator ANY Info please send to me
You could try a number of things. 1. you could tap the hole in the radiator and thread a new fitting in there. In the LS swap world, this is pretty common with plastic intake manifolds so you can probably find folks with videos on how to do that. This is my recommendation! 2. you could "plastic weld" a new fitting in its place. Cut off the old fitting and find a plastic tube or nipple of the same size and melt it to the housing. This may be too brittle of a solution to hold up long term though.
Thank you! I was actually thinking of putting in a tap. Currently there’s a small enough piece left on the rad and I was able to clamp a new hose in today. Coolant filled and just drove for about 30 minutes no CEL or leakage. I used your link for part and next day so Thanks. I scanned and have no codes and no more idle shakes. Ideas for use as a tap because I don’t think the clamp will hold long term. Appreciate your videos and reply. Any more Cadi videos in the works.
@@JNCrypto1 glad it all worked out for you! My oldest son just took the car with him to to Florida for school and I probably wont see it again at the house for some time. I have a roll of gloss black vinyl that I am planning on wrapping the roof with. If I ever get to see the car again, that will be my next project! Wish me luck.
I have the 2.5L engine, i'm going to replace this hose. I figured it was this easy. I replaced the serpentine belt and thermostat this morning. I should have done the water pump too but I didn't have the part. I noticed you filled up your second reservoir to the top...Mine is half way filled on both. I guess I need more coolant. Also, the car is still over heating, but then it drops back down. I think there's air in my system for sure so I didn't realize these things "fixed themselves" in that aspect. Since there is no radiator cap, you can't squeeze the air out of it from the hose that i'm aware of. But anyway, hope mine stops over heating after filling it up this much.
yeah I over-filled mine. It should only have half a tank full in the lower reservoir. However, if you overfill it it will weep out of the holes in the top of the tank and not be a big deal. Air in the system will cause it to overheat. If you cycle the heater on full blast and let the system "burp" itself the air bubbles will go away and it should stop overheating.
@@JeffLyle I was driving this afternoon and it did fine for 15 minutes then jumped up 25% past the halfway mark. Turned the heat on full blast and it went back down. So I guess it's an air issue. Ordered a pump just in case...
@@nick_jacob Good luck getting it all figured out. Hoping it is just going through the burping process. Let me know if it ended up being the pump though.
@@JeffLyle Got the pump, inlet reservoir hose and fan in today. I noticed some coolant build up on the inlet hose so I replaced it. Still overheating even with the heat on and turned up all the way. Pretty annoying. It's probably the water pump. It looks like it's dripping in the reservoir and i'm pretty sure it's suppose to be almost like a jet stream.
@@nick_jacob that sounds like a pump to me too. If it was a stuck thermostat, it most likely would have failed open. I have never personally seen a thermostat fail closed although there are rumors on the internet that they can fail close.
