For over 60-years, Packard has been a master distributor of HVACR solutions for manufacturers all over the world, bringing the most innovative and highest quality products available to our wholesale customers. We represent over twenty different brands including top industry names, as well as our own exclusively branded products and private-label lines. Packard's unyielding dedication to providing the best service, selection & satisfaction will always be our top priority.
*Because of the hazardous nature and the government regulations associated with HVAC/R systems, only licensed technicians should service equipment.
Packard makes some of the worst contactors available (cheap Chinese junk) that doesn't have enough Beryllium alloyed in which leads to arc burn, pitting, etc. thus their contactors have a very short service life. The original contactor with my Carrier condensing unit lasted over 20+ years without any issues. The Packard replacement contactors are lucky if they last 2 years before the contacts are burn all the Hell or welded together This company should have a class action lawsuit filed against it for ripping the consumer off with the junk they are selling!
So Titan HD is MADE IN AMERICA according to everybody.. BUT WHERE?? MY VERY PRICEY HVAC TECH WHO I KNOW WAS RIPPING ME OFF DID NOT KNOW HOW TO TELL ME WHAT THE WARRANTY IS. I HAVE READ BETW 30-DAYS TO 7 YEARS! HOW DO WE FIND OUT WHO THE ACTUAL MANUFACTURER IS?? Thanks..
Does it really matter? Warranties in the HVAC industry are a sad joke. These things are $15 parts. Most HVAC contractors charge on a "flat fee" basis nowadays to help them get away with charging $300 for a $15 part and half an hour of labor. The standard 1-year labor warranty contractors usually include is the only portion of the warranty that really matters. Beyond that, the warranty on this part is probably only going to get you a $15 discount on the $300 ripoff cost.
So a Sleeve bearing motor permits the rotor to self-center, sleeve bearing wicking keeps reserve lube, "slightly" studier ball bearing ? So WHAT IS "EC" ? Yes 93% of new motors, that come in a box, are bad, Didn't answer any of my questions, Thanks !
Not sure how they can claim to be made in America, not aware of a foil mfg in the US. Please sight the USA source for the foil that is being put into your caps
The specs on the Titan HD i bought matched exactly as the installed Titan HD. Just question on if the number before the No-PCB matters, example "1836 No-PCB(on installed can) and 2324 No-PCB (was on new can)" ?
The specs on the Titan HD i bought matched exactly as the installed Titan HD. Just question on if the number before the No-PCB matters, example "1836 No-PCB(on installed can) and 2324 No-PCB (was on new can)" ?
240V makes better sense as it requires less or half amperage to deliver the same wattage of a 120V North American Circuit, in the UK we have 3000Watt water kettles and makes my cuppa tea 2x faster. In USA/CA we can't find anything more than 1500watts because the mains cannot handle the amount of current. It is amperage that makes a wire go hot and burn, just try shorting a 12v battery with a gauge of wire designed for 120v! It will burn your fingers in an instant! I've installed UK plugs in my N American home; only issue now is both wires are hot like the outer wires of a centre tap transformer so I needed to install a DPST switch to make sure both are off as a temporary solution. Power bars assume LNE configuration not LLE, so even if it's off you can still get zapped between earth and the still connected Live. In long run will install an European consumer unit probably in a ring circuir topology following British Standard requirements using the Brown, Blue, Yellow&Green sleeves that need to be imported, after converting to 50hz and do proper earthing/bonding and an RCD so to have Live, Neutral and Earth just like in Europe @ 240/50Hz not a floating 240V Live, Live, Earth @ 60Hz. Safer, with fused plugs and RCDs, not he flimsy connectors that falls off so easily. They will be two separate systems starting from where power enters. A proper install 120/60 next to 240/50 with Earth and Neutral. Running a 3000Watt kettle over a transformer will 2x the amperage on the primary / 120v input side of the transformer; nice way to get a fire if the breaker doesnt trip first and especially when none of the American plus are fused; for thost that are unaware.
Very informative VDO. Now I am in the opposite situation and would like to send a small 230V 50Hz lathe with a speed controller to the Philippines (230V / 60Hz). What would I expect there. Would it work. Using your clock as an example, the rpm would change Laid at the top, but otherwise functional. Am I correct. Thank you
Had a larger fan (extract) break one blade yesturday, fibreglass/plastic kind of thing, these dont have a consistent face but i wondered if i could just use a sliding bevel and take that angle from horizontal to get the pitch, the bigger issue is its an extract for a large factory, so ill assume the fans network was designed, and i could call it a challenge to just get a new fan to say the least… to top it off, my colleague broke the motor removing the fan hub. Theres gotta be a better way to do this, surely.
Good video.,..but too Mr. Rogers for my taste. You are not speaking to 4 year olds. This slow style of delivery might be more appropriate in a classroom setting, but with a video like this that can be watched repeatedly, stopped for thought, and replayed at will this slow delivery may not be the best. Also in all things I like to hear theory behind things rather than the magic formula presented here. That feedback said, good video and useful
I just bought a 45458B multi hp motor. It seems to be overheating after say 28 minutes. There's not much of a way wire for the different HP, so how does that work? Is it all internally I'd assume?
Seriously? You say they are the best but don't explain why. All I have here is your word and I have no idea who you are or why I should believe you. You need to do a better job of telling me why these are great. Opinions are not that useful.
Great. But, I have a two bladed fan blade which one is correct? How would I know? The motor was replaced and it looks like it is faster than the old motor. How would I determine how much air I need to move to be back within the specifications of the condenser?
Consult the documentation for that condenser model. I just looked up my 1982 model RUUD and found online the manual that specified how much air. In this day of internet it's "usually" easy to find manuals like that.
