Welcome to The Justaride Snowboard Channel! The goal of my channel is to provide professional information around snowboarding and splitboarding. I'll be talking about gear, board design, board maintenance, different setups and setup options, backcountry knowledge, general riding technique and fitness tips. I started snowboarding in the spring of '93 and ticked a few boxes along the way. Eleven years as a hardgoods buyer at EOW, Fernie have given me a good insight into the snowboarding industry. I'm currently representing Stranda Snowboards sales in north America, while running my own tuning business. An Austrian ISIA level snowboard instructor qualification got me into 12 seasons of teaching snowboarding in Europe. The knowledge gained in multiple avalanche and backcountry classes including the CAA Avalanche Operations Level 1 helps me navigate the backcountry safely. I'm lucky enough to ride 100+ days per season, and I live for the turn!
I’ve had my carver surf skate for almost 8 years now. Got it end of summer after starting my first summer job. Finally just got a new deck, wheels, and bearings and threw the trucks on the new deck. The most fun I can have when the waves are flat. I don’t think yow existed then, definitely wasn’t available at my local shop. Sounds like the carver and yow are very similar because I noticed (and enjoy that) mine can be ridden like a normal cruiser but also how a surf skate is ridden. I’ve gotten alright at riding switch, but never done that with the thought of using it for snowboarding coordination. Maybe I’ll give it a shot!
So what about riders like Ryan Knapton, who's arguably one of the best freestyle carvers in the world, riding a full duck stance, and quite wide? I think this should be preferaced that these physics described are only applicable to a directional shaped board.
Hi and thanks! This has nothing to do with the board at all. As you said "freestyle carver'. I'm not a freestyle carver. Here's my take on Ryan, who I have deepest respect for: This is the main question I'm getting on this video, and I knew that was gonna happen. I think we need to look at what's going on between how and where I ride and how and where he rides. First of all Ryan is a highly skilled snowboarder!! Secondly: you can dig deep trenches in any stance - but maybe not the same way in the same terrain with the same desired outcome! I personally see Ryan's riding as freestyle that is carving inspired rather than the opposite. He can carve DESPITE his stance, not BECAUSE OF his stance. When people say that +/+ is unnecessary, because of Ryan Knapton, I could easily reply "So should the Olympic GS racers ride duck now?". You need to look at the desired outcome. He wants to ride both ways with tons of spins. +/+ doesn't make sense for that - although there's a ton of Asian riders crushing it, doing the same things he does with very steep positive angles. Same goes for them: they can do it DESPITE the angles, not BECAUSE OF the angles... Then there's terrain. Ryan carves on very open, mellow groomers. That's where it's fun to do what he does. In order for him to get such high edge angles in such mellow terrain, his board needs an insanely large radius! His actual board - as far as I know - is now at over 18m radius... If it was a standard 8m radius, the way he rides every turn would result in a 4m radius turn (watch my video on sidecut!!) making him come to a stop within six turns... There's no momentum behind such small turns in such mellow terrain! So his gear is very niche and very specialized. As soon as you enter steep, narrow runs - like what I ride a lot - the 18m radius would produce wild amounts of uncontrollable speed. The steepness and being forced to really tighten turns aggressively also forces you to get much more weight over the front of the board than what Ryan needs. His position is pretty relaxed and neutral - ideal for freestyle maneuvers. Once you challenge yourself to carve clean turns in the steeps, the advantage of a +/+ stance is undeniable (...and that does not mean that it's impossible to do in a duck stance!!). Hinging forward from the hip to get the chest well over the front foot is crucial, and in a duck stance impossible to do in a way that doesn't twist and tweak the entire body - as explained in this video. It's funny... nobody questions half pipe riders about their board choice saying "But Zeb Powell rode the pipe on a 203cm Nitro Swallow Tail! Why are you riding such a short twin?". This is the same thing! There's a whole world of alpine racing out there, fully specialized in carving, all in a +/+ stance... and then there's Ryan Knapton doing something entirely different, yet carving, and everybody says "I don't know that +/+ is necessary!"; hahahaha.... I hope this makes any sense! My main point here is that the two stances require different techniques in order for them to work efficiently. Pick your poison! :-)
@@Bob-ru6nw it’ll be better on that end, but the boot itself will ultimately collapse laterally at the ankle. Burton boots are particularly bad for that, because they don’t offer an articulating upper cuff. So every time you flex the ankle in whichever way, the material breaks down a bit more… Plus, you still have a binding attached to the foot rather than in your backpack. Weight on the feet is much worse than in your pack. But you’re right, that system might well be a bit better for splitboarding than a standard strap binding.
Hi Lars, Appreciate all your insights and I have learned quite a lot from your channel. I bought some Drive Pros this season after seeing this video and loved them. I was wondering if you have ever tried the Burton Step Ons (Genesis or other). They seem a bit less stiff than the Drive Pros, but the points of contact for the bindings sound like they mimic the lower fulcrum/point of energy transfer of skate tech. Curious on your thoughts about the comparisons for performance and any other additional color Cheers, edit: I scrolled down a bit below and saw you had already responded to someone with a similar question.
This is the best video I've ever seen about body balance and body positioning for carving posi/posi! Tomorrow is my last day on the slopes and I'm ready to move from 15/-6 to 24/3 🤘🏼
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Reporting back: started with 24/3, ended the day with 30/9. I don't know if it is because I've had some injuries in the past that made my mobility restricted, but I feel SO MUCH BETTER on the board with that new stance. Much easier to get in and out of turns during carves, I'm not ducking anymore. Many many thanks!
I subscribed to your channel. In three months of watching YT videos on snowboard equipment, I learned more in three of your videos than I did in all the others I watched. I just reconfigured my high back on my Bent Metals so that they’re more parallel to the rail and it’s a world of difference I see. Thanks. I ride a YoW too. Been surf skating like 3 years to supplement my surfing since discovering the surf skate itself, and Yow I agree is the best hands down. I took a SmoothStar Deck and put my Yow Meraki trucks on it. I ride 78A 66mm slimeball wheels, turns out to be the right combo of grip and release for carving and snapping and they don’t wear out as fast as the stock Yow wheels…which cone out fast.
Wait, are you saying that on the bent metal high back, you can have them set differently? I thought that was just for adjusting heel to toe to get your foot centered, but if I’m understanding correctly, it sounds like you can set them unevenly in the holes to rotate the angle of the high back itself!! I have both set in the middle because I thought they had to be even. But I can rotate the high back?! And you’re saying it’s better to have the high back more parallel with the board’s edge. Wow. Thanks. I’ve been watching snowboarding videos for several months trying to catch up with all the technology changes after a 1/4 century, and you’re blowing my mind. 😂
@@mikeuptegrove high back and heel cup are two different things. Don’t mount the heel cups asymmetrically!!!! That adjustment is solely a size adjustment. The high backs however may have two or three holes on each wing and those are for rotation.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel yeah. I changed the high backs. The, “heel cups”, I left at stock. I was playing with them last night to see if I could center the disc but it made it made worse. I didn’t realize last night the adjustment for the high back side to side was at the same spot as the heel cup.
Thanks for that. I’m gonna go measure my DiVinci stance. Sounds about right. I eyeballed a setup and mounted it and it came out like 20 or 21 inches. I’m 5’11, 31 waist, 164lbs. I ride upright and have a narrow stance, always have. I think my stance on a skateboard and years of skating influenced my preference. I even surf very upright and narrow and all my surfer friends try to tell me I need to bend lower. However I tell them, that in skating, all this squatting low stuff was considered to be garbage style wise, meant you had no natural talent or balance so you had to get down way low to compensate. I still make all the same tricks as they do, but I’m not all squatty and I feel more natural like it’s requiring me less effort and exaggeration to do the exact same maneuvers. I rather just be upright, loose, mobile, and very comfortable. Wide and squatty might look powerful but it looks tiring too. In surfing it’s called a stinkbug stance.
That was great, and it had me thinking about how I set my board up. I grew snowboarding, always set my binging back heels naturally. There was no wide boards in the 90s, or not many I recall. Got this Orca based upon a recommendation of what to buy for a Japan trip. I grew up full camber riding Burton Customs. I was a skater kid, and I think popping always felt best centered from ball of foot close to center of my deck, like on a skateboard, and thus I always set heels back even though it never felt overly difficult to get to my toes any. So I just checked my set up, didn’t know these Bent Metals had that adjustment back in the heel, moved it back, centered my disc, got a 4th screw in, and it was way too heels. After I messed around sorta eyeballing toe and heel hang, my natural proclivity set all the way heels and no additional adjustments was closest to the most centered. So I just put everything back the way I had it originally by eyeball. But now I know there’s more adjustments to play with. I’m riding an Orca 153 size ten boot (Vans). I’ve been eyeing buying a regular old school style board; Capita Areonaut. Wonder if that will be an intuitive setup too?!
@@mikeuptegrove just to clarify: it’s not about centring your disc, but the boot. Once everything’s mounted, you should have the same amount of toe and heel overhang. I think you did that, but then parts of your comment confused me (4th screw?!?!). Your Ollie approach sounds totally understandable, but unfortunately doesn’t get you to a functional snowboard setup. Size 10 on a 153 Orca is a good fit. I believe that board has a 268mm waist. So that’s an appropriate width for just about everything but super extreme carving, which the board can’t do anyways. I find it a fun pow board, but I don’t like rocker. Also, it’s too soft of a board for me. With your background I can only assume that you’ll be happier riding camber. Setups are always the same. Once you know where the binding sits relatively to the bolts/inserts, you just copy that for every board. The foot will remain centred over any board, just the amount of overhang will change with changing board width. I’ve never tried a Capita, but I’ve heard many good things about the boards. Good luck with the experiments!! It’s all fun! 😊
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel hey, thanks for the thorough reply. Yes, I have my toe and heel hang roughly even eyeballing it. To get it even, I can only get three screws in my disc, not 4. I saw your tips for adjusting and thought, “hmm, maybe I can get the disc centered and get the forth screw in, using your adjustments on the Bent Metal that I didn’t know about”. I tried but sliding the heel bar back only created even more heel hang, not less, even after shifting the disc back to the center and getting a fourth screw in. Presently, I have to rotate my disc to get it to slide set back toward the heels to keep toe and heel hang even. So by rotating the disc I can’t read the degrees I have of set at and I can only get three, not four screws in to mount it. I figured however, if Burton is using 2 screws now, then 3 should still be secure enough. But, it’s the only way I can get the centering I need. I thought maybe I could try the options you showed here, but they just weren’t as good as rotating my discs to they could slide further back toward my heel edge to give the best centering by eye. I haven’t measured, but all the other options I tried were way further away from being balanced. And, yes, that’s what I’m scared of! I grew up on Cambers. I never thought about my edges. Now they make boards for every baby that wants to ride without catching an edge or something. I’ve been playing catch up on tech on RU-vid. I stopped riding around 2000, but grew up doing it. Last time I rode was 2017, it was my first time in 9 years at all, and I was still the fastest guy down the mountain, didn’t fall once, ski patrol angry I was going too fast on the 25 year old Burton Custom I rode in high school, and after high school when I was riding everyday working at Squaw Valley. I’ve been in Hawaii a long time now, almost 25 years, but I surf everyday. My buddy Dave Weaver, who I surf with a lot, who was VP of Sims in the 1980s, and who invented the high back binding, has a grandson that comes here to surf in the summer. He lives in Alaska and is sponsored by Volcom. He’s 13. He and his Dad told me to buy an Orca, that the technology has caught up and it’s the best board. In high school I had a LibTech and it SUCKED! Complete garbage. It could’ve been the rocker, but in 95, nobody was talking tech anything, and no one knew about rockers or cambers. All that was just sorta like magic. All I know is once I got on a Burton Custom, all my other boards sucked, and I knew they held me back. So, I was scared to buy a LibTech again, thinking, they still suck. But then everyone says how great they are, there’s tons of hype online. So I don’t know. Maybe everyone online sucks at snowboarding and got all these baby boards that don’t catch edges or something, I don’t know cause that didn’t exist as a conversation, let alone and option, when I was growing up. It sounds like snowboards all have training wheels for the inept now or something the way it’s talked about online. So, after your comment, I’m scared the Orca might be crap. I rode full camber on powder all the time and never had a problem. My Burton Customs were always bad ass. But everyone says for Japan I need a Orca. So I got one. I’m going to Argentina in August. I want to bring two boards. I may bring my 25 year old Burton custom, it worked like a charm in 2017 when I last used it. But I am thinking the Capita Aeronaut maybe what I need to get the newest technology and lightness, in the style of board I grew up on. I listened to an interview with Longo and the way he sets his bindings up, rides his board flag without any forward lean, is exactly how I rode when I rode hard. I was a pretty good skater so I had good control of my boards and wasn’t half bad. We also didn’t have a, “side hits”, genre in snowboarding then, cause that’s basically what all snowboarding was for us. It was all resort groomers with side kickers at full speed. It’s all we did. Tickets at Squaw Valley were like $13 until they built the funitel and I think they went as high as $38. Now it’s $250 a day. It’s $500 for a 2 week pass at Las Leñas, Argentina, so I’m heading there. I’m gonna try that Aeronaut with Union Ultra, the set up Longo says he prefers. I was worried that the side cut might be too narrow and then I found your video. For some reason the internet had me sold on the idea that at size 10 boot, I need a wide board or something. I never did before. I always did fine before. Maybe set back heels always had me centered. I don’t even know. I’m gonna measure my old stance on my old set up and see what I had. I don’t even know. I like a narrow stance I know. I always rode 12 front foot and I guess, and something like 6-9 in the back foot (ducked out so switch and regular we’re almost the same). Anyways I’m about to watch another video of yours on stance with to see what I can learn. Thanks again for your complete comment, your time, and suggestions. I really appreciate it. Mahalo. Aloha. 🤙🤙
@@mikeuptegrove this is still super confusing. Your disc on the bent metals is a so called mini disc. You’re supposed to use the board inserts directly next to each other. So the bolts will form a rectangle rather than a square. That way, no matter what you do, you must be able to use all four bolts. And that’s what you should do!!! The slots in the discs should run tip to tail, rather than edge to edge. With that orientation of the discs you get micro adjustment of your stance width!! Then, to centre the boots across the board, you use the heel cup size adjustment. If you can’t get close to a centred boot in any of the size options, the binding is simply the wrong size. I hope this makes sense! With a size ten, I agree, you should start thinking of a wider board. 260mm waist is the very minimum. 270 probably the maximum for all mountain riding. Depends a bit on preference and riding style/level. If you ever want to support my channel, you can do that here since a few weeks ago: buymeacoffee.com/justaride I’m stoked about any support. 😊🙏
Respect, Lars! Way to proceed. Great exercises and style. Keep it up and as soon as SB Season is back around the corner, your body will be ready from the getgo!
Lots of good dynamic movements. I would say your legs look relatively thin compared to the rest of your body. You're probably already familiar with kneesovertoesguy but I think you would like his recommendations. 50lb kettlebell, lots of hill/trail running, and a slant board have completely beefed up my legs and ankles the last few years. Particularly the VMO muscle near the knees, it's got a sicc bulge there now, my knees feel powerful. Strength side channel and fitnessfaq also great resources
Sorry, but I cannot agree. In my experience, going wider greatly reduces your lateral mobility, as knees cannot move much, when your feet are strapped. Actually the load on my knees was so hard, that for the first two years, my limit was two days of riding. After that, my knees were giving up and I needed a week or two for them to stop hurting. I've fixed it the third year, by going as narrow as my board allowed me to.
I'm not quite sure how to take that comment... If I choose to not interpret anything into it at all, the answer is no, not the case! I've been doing everything inside a rather small living room before, and even in some park at some point. You don't need a yard, and certainly not one in Fernie. - If I choose to read humour into it: Yeah, it's pretty nice and we appreciate every minute in this yard! - If I choose to read some form of 'envious stabbing' into it: I've worked jobs that paid about 20 to 25 bucks an hour my entire life (relatively speaking... inflation and such....). I never inherited a penny. I've worked very hard for literally everything I have, and my parents taught me how to save up - since they had roughly nothing. We bought the second cheapest possible place in Fernie at the time with the last penny we could find. From then onwards it's been tight budgeting and insane amounts of labour with minimal material cost. Everything you see in this video we built ourselves without a single helping hand over two full summers. Besides that I did everything the place needed inside myself, too. The first summer of renovations I biked twice! I worked on this place from May to mid November every single day. It was hell. Last year, second summer was close to that but a little more free time. And now I'm enjoying it, and I'm making a video in my wonderful yard in Fernie. And I'm hyper allergic to anybody telling me anything about privilege. It creates a victim mentality that helps nobody. That's my three options. You pick what fits and disregard the rest, please! 🙂
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it's just a humerous comment on the perfect body shape. We are living in Stuttgart in Germany on 80 square meter with two children aged 14 and 16, having just a small balcony an paying 2400 CAD a month. A house and a simple garden are just not affordable in Stuttgart. Why are we living here? Because of a big car brand, not because we are native born here or because of a wonderful environment.
Cool! Been digging your snowboard content this year and I also got a surfskate 2 weeks ago, the Carver Hobo C7. Love it but I can`t wait to get on the Yow La Jolla which is on the way now. I like it in this summer rabbithole 🙂
Nice one!! Glad you like my content. If you ever feel like it deserves some support, you can buy me a coffee here 😊🙏 Have fun out there!! 👍🤙 buymeacoffee.com/justaride
I don't suffer from heel lifting but I always felt that the bridge of my foot has plenty of space, should I try putting some fitting pads on the top of the bridge?
Super interesting! I love the very pragmatic and sensible approach you have! Never really heard anyone talk about how board width and foot size relate... other than saying that a wider board is a bit harder to get on edge. I've more or less queued up all your videos to understand what I'm going to want to be looking for for the upcoming season for getting back into snowboarding. I'm one of your typical customers like you mentioned in the stance series in that I don't ride switch, I don't ride park, I just want to enjoy the mountain and hopefully learn how to carve properly, and I've always enjoyed longboarding over riding in skate parks too... I think this is why Stranda speaks to me in terms of their philosophy on how what type of boards they want to make, and why I find it very difficult to find a board that sounds interesting from other brands since they are so focused on park riding etc. At first I was really interested in the Biru, but as a 177 cm, 85-ish kg guy with 25,5-ish cm feet I'm starting to lean more towards the Shorty and Descender. But my goal is to get my friends to come with me early in the season to a demo event week so I can try them out and see what fits me before I decide on what will be my first board ever.
Awesome comment!! Thank you for sharing! The Shorty will be the best one out of those. Biru is too wide and an aggressive turner. Descender is stiff and a sluggish turner in comparison, it’s more meant for speed stability than for turning (turns great, but requires much more effort!). Shorty is simply smooth and does what you want it to do, both, in powder and on groomers. Absolutely fantastic board.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you for your insights! That was kind of how I was thinking too from reading Strandas descriptions! In that case I think I will focus on trying the Shorty in multiple lengths if possible! I'm not the most confident snowboarder (yet), but I'm thinking I should probably go for the 164 over 159 to have a bit more board to "grow into"? I do have that skiiers mentality of wanting to improve my technique every time I am on the mountain like you talked about in the video about snowboarding having grown up, I'm that exact 34 year old person you were talking about. So as long as it's not unbearably difficult I think I would prefer a board that challenges me while still feeling nimble.. maybe I shouldn't be afraid to try the 169 either? I also want to try a Bataleon board I think, because I want to try their funky 3D shaped nose and tail and see what it feels like. I'm skeptical but at the same time intrigued by the design! Thank you once again for all the insights you are sharing with us and for putting it in terms that are easy to understand!
@@SuperPhelix thanks for the appreciation! If switch is not on the menu, you could try a 162 Tree Surfer. Same bottom contour as Shorty, maybe a hint softer, slightly easier to turn. The 169 Shorty is too much. 164 will be something to grow into. Stranda is torsionally stiffer than other boards. So 164 is quite some board, although it turns super nicely. Tree Surfer definitely turns easier. Feel free to support me here: buymeacoffee.com/justaride Much appreciated!! 🙏😊
As someone who spent 5 or 6 tries trying to get my ski boots fitting comfortably last season this will be extremely useful when buying snowboard boots for this season ☺ Excellent video series!
When I learned snowboarding at like 13-ish(?) I actually experimented A LOT with angles and found that posi-posi was definitely the easiest way to generate power through my board. Especially as I came from being a fairly competent carver on skis already. I remember feeling so limited by having my back foot pointing the "wrong way" up the slope... Super interesting video that I will take with me next winter as I take up snoboarding again some 20 years later... :)
Makes total sense!! Most every skier who also rides that I know finds ++ much more efficient. There’s comfort in facing more down the hill. Love the comment! Thanks for sharing!
I am a snowboard instructor with 11 years of experience. I completely agree with you. I have long been looking with a little envy at clients of ski instructors who have been coming to the same instructors for years to improve their riding also i completely agree with the statement about the industry. one small fact that confirms your opinion is that manufacturers do not indicate the weight of snowboards. And their units of measurement of stiffness of snowboards is a separate not funny topic
Yow ~ Yos (Your own (street) slope) Have fun & wear a helmet (There are definitely some resemblances (wide & short turns); but I've not reached the Euro-carve-niveau on concrete yet. Surfskates are also good for stance experiments....
I've been looking for something to cross-train on in not-winter, would love to see a video about the transferable techniques and training that will help when the white stuff returns!
as someone who didnt skate and picked up light surfskating 3 years ago I can tell you its very easy to get into and drastically improved my snowboarding
I started surfskating on Carvers before tradition popsicle skating. For me at least surfskating was pretty intuitive, but I ate shit a bunch learning to push and carve transition on the popsicle. Fwiw I like popsicle better at the skatepark in transition, but surfskatea if I'm just cruising down the block on flatground or light hills.
I’m turning 50. I use to skateboard and a decade ago I got my old board out with the kids and I was a little surprised I could still Ollie. Only over 2 decks which was about 1/3 of what I use to… but I guess continuing to snowboard kept some muscle memory. I always thought long boards were lame, but now that I’m freecarving I’m having second thoughts. What’s the best for a pump track? (There’s one being built in my neighborhood).
For some weird reasons I do skate goofy while snowboarding regular. Sadly it doesn’t translate at all. You would think after riding like this for over 20 years I could switch it up, but nope my brain wired to goofy skating and regular snowboarding. If you enjoy skating check out slalom skateboarding. There are tons of parallels between it and carving a snowboard.
Love the idea of using it as a snowboard trainer! I also started out with a Yow tehaupoo, mainly thinking it'll help in learning a bit of surfing movement, pumping and feeling, but I am starting to think it's also good for recalling the snowbaord feeling. I am very curious about your full opinion on how this actually compare to snowboard carving and snowbaord in general :) How it can help in learning carving techniques and what is actually different, is the movement similar in deep pow...There's not much info around, and your vision is always on point and clear! Also, I got so hyped with it that I felt like I needed a longer wheelbase. I purchased a custom baord and now mounted the meraki Yow trucks on that board, at 24.5 inches. Honestly, I'm loving it. Feels even more close to snowboard to me as the stance I have on it is very similar (larger then a 19" WB) , and you can somehow dive deeper into the turns :D
You're totally on point! I'm aiming to add a long wheelbase deck eventually. It's clearly more like snowboarding when you have a larger WB. If it wasn't for my silly idea to do this goofy, I would have gotten a bigger one. But this way it's really, really challenging me, since it's so responsive and tippy... Applying all those micro movements goofy in a posi surf stance is hopefully gonna make me a better snowboarder all together. The whole thing is much more agile than a snowboard, of course. I don't think it actually compares. But it surely has many elements of it! In particular in the micro ankle/knee movements and hip/chest rotation. Cool to hear I'm not alone with the idea 🙂
Hey, Lars. Great Video. So, my feet (like many other people) are two different sizes. One measures mondo 25 while the other is mondo 25.5. So, I could go bigger or I could go smaller. What do you think of a larger shell (mondo 25.5) and 12mm liner from Intuition?
Always go by the bigger foot to avoid a bad time... The numbers alone don't help as they're not always perfectly accurate. The shell fit matters!! If you have your setup at 25.5 and you can only fit one finger behind the heel, the 12mm liner is gonna be too thick and you have to go 9mm. With 1.5 to 2 fingers you'll need the 12mm.
I found symmetrical duck stance was fantastic on my first couple days doing falling leaf exercises, and trying to figure out if I was more comfortable riding regular or goofy. It became progressively more of a hindrance every day after that. After having that experience, if someone where to ask me, I would recommend they use symmetrical on the first day but then pick a direction to start focusing on and slowly walk the stance angles to favour that side over time. If a stance angles feels comfortable I say leave it there. The riding is what matters so if it feels good, it is good.
hi... 5.7 Ibs and boot 9 ...190 lbs ...ex carving no problem..+24/+9 or 12....looking for new board and I should go for cafe racer 159 with 269 w/w or 164 with 276 w/w ....please let me know what is your opinion. tnx
@@zoheirjavaheri1605 ....obviously this is overly simplified advice!!! 164 is a big board for your height if it was your go to tree slayer..... It all depends on the desired outcome!
Hi, in one of your video’s you mentioned a pad underneath you binding to lift the whole binding and avoid heel and toe drag. Can you tell me which pads you use? Thnx! Greetings, Steven.
On some boards for rare occasions I use pads from 'Padride'. They do the job, but there's room for improvement. They're definitely the thickest I've ever seen and give lots of clearance. I'll be uploading a review on those this fall. If you get in touch with them, tell them you've found the product through me. It'll help me next season... Thank you very much!
@@stevenvanderkaag board becomes tippy! Less effort to get it on edge, which makes it more responsive, so you may dial it back a notch and start edging a little more carefully. Quicker edge to edge. More angulation without booting out. Mellower binding angles become possible, if wanted. Board becomes significantly heavier on chair lifts without foot rests.
Hi, I'm always changing it. If it's choppy chundery slightly wider helps so i don't lose balance while the pony is bucking me around..Also ive heard changing angles helps prevent knee stress in one location..i don't know..
Hi Lars, which backland model would you suggest for splitboarding? I think the carbon ones are too stiff, but between the expert and the sport models, which wuould be the best in your opinion? I weight 66kg and it would be my first pair of hard boots. There are some others models that would be a good choice? Thanks!
The Expert can be used out of the box without modifications. They’re soft enough to ride in. At least in my opinion. The Pro is already a bit stiffer and not so great in the down without mods.
Hello there ! Very interesting and informative video Lars. I'm also quite a snowboard nerd myself so your video got me thinking (and it also got me doing maths!). First, I want to say I'm a fan of your work and I don't want to be rude or anything, but I would like to challenge one of your statement. The goal here is just to deepen my comprehension and snowboarding pleasures ! When you said that a longer effective edge allows for a greater range of turn radius, that felt like en enlightement to me, but then, I look at the equations for the radius of the turn in relation to the sidecut radius, and that is simply: Rturn = Rsidecut*cos(edge_angle). In other words, this doesn't use the effective length at all. For a longer effective edge an a given edge angle, it's true that you can flex the board more, but that doesn't result in a tighter turning radius. However, a bigger deflection puts more pressure on the edge because of the board stiffness, so it probably gives a different feeling or allow for an even greater edging angle without skidding, which would be an explanation of why you felt that a longer effective edge gives a tighter radius. That's my argument for now, I'm looking forward to hearing back from you on this matter. Cheers !
You’re correct. And you I’m going to make a video where I will correct this. Someone else already brought this up. The reality is that the flex in combination with sidecut radius of the board is the limit to turn tightness. Except for that statement, I think the video is still pointing out the right thing. I say at one point that changing EE would call for changing the flex, too. However, what you are pointing out is absolutely correct!! Thanks for the comment!!
The Biru is not all that soft. It’s a performance board. It’s like. K2 Party Platter on steroids. Stiffer, faster base, can take bigger drops and higher rider weight. It’s still a side hits board and fits well with your others. But it’s not a soft board by any means.
Bought one pair of boots, never did any of this and my feet are great while wearing them. If your boots hurt your feet, you bought the wrong boots. return them and get something else. That is simple
Hahahaha, that’s funny! So you don’t think that you’re simply in the right size by accident and other people aren’t as lucky as you are? So it’s pointless to give advice on how a snowboard boot should fit, because you didn’t need advice to end up with a great boot? Well, I guess that’s one opinion to have. I’m glad your feet are happy!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I tried on others. they didn't fit. I didn't buy them. Just like normal shoes. It isn't a opinion; rather a fact. If the boot doesn't fit don't buy it. simple.
Do you have recommendations for wider boards for people with big feet. I'm in the market for a wider board for my size 13 feet. I just hit the point last season to where i was starting to boot out on my beginner board with 26.6cm waist width. It is so hard to find anything that is wider than that, that isn't a hard charging freeride board or specialized powder board. Searching online there are a lot of people asking that same question but not many answers. It might be a good video idea. I really appreciate your videos.
Would even a 240 grit diamond stone get damaged by case hardening? If so, What coarse is the aluminium oxide stone? Will a knife sharpening block do? Hard to find a small one like that.
