My name is Vince and for nearly 25 years I was an editor for Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines. After that company was sold off, I joined WOOD magazine, where I am currently a contributing editor. My channel is dedicated to the art of tinkering - in other words, spending time in the shop creating, building, or repairing anything and everything. My main interests are woodworking and restoring old tools -- both hand tools and power tools. As a result of those restorations, I’ve gotten into some basic machining and metalworking as well. I enjoy creating videos of some of the things I'm working on in my shop. Thanks for stopping by.
Disclosure statement: The opinions expressed in my videos are my own personal opinions. I do not receive payment, tools, equipment, or other compensation for any products I may mention or use in my videos, unless stated otherwise.
GUYS...when buying one of these older lathes, make sure most all parts are there and included. Parts such as chuck cross slide carriage tail stock and motor drive pulley sub shafts etc are very important. This particular lathe has lead screw Forward & Reverse box is junk most always broken or missing but there is a way around this and much better overall. You may soon learn about the snakes & jackals on Egay who will charge insane prices for that single part you need to get the lathe going. DON'T think....hey all it's missing is a few this & that's and can get everything needed from Egay. You would be better off finding & buying another entire lathe for parts than try to piece part one together from Egay.
Enjoyed your show. I’ll be looking for some of the Washita stones to compare with a Belgian Blue I came across about a year ago; incredible edge also coveted by straight razor crowd. Cheers!
Washeeeeeeetah. lol. I speak hillbilly. Washhh-it-tahhhh would be proper hillbilly. Kind of like Wichita (which-it-tah) Ouichita (wah-chit-tah) Omaha (Ohm-ah-hah) Everybody wants to call these stone cheetah lol. The Great American Cheetah stones lol😂😂😂.
I just bought one of these drag engravers and was wondering if there's a way to clear the burr around the letters w/out marring a lacquered finish. Also, this particular model has 2 scales on the workpiece vise. 1 would be to center script based on the reduction #, but is the second a random placement scale for setting multiple lines?
The best thing about flat ways lathes like Atlas is you can in theory flip it around. You would have to drill new holes to fit everything. The problem is the ways usually get worn out where it is mostly used, 10-15 cm part closest to the chuck. Of course you could make a machine shop grind the bed into speck but that usually cost a lot...
Nice video sir - I use a Arkansas stone I got at a garage sale in 80's , shes still kickin , BUT one thing is on my D2 knives these stones wont work or you have to be a reallly good sharpener , as im watching this video im sharpening my d2 on Arkansas hard stone and nothing is happening 😆 been 15 mins already , at my skill level I need diamond stone to sharpen it . But for my AUS8 knives no problem it works fine
The shaper gage is a real gem. I just bought the Lufkin version complete with the 1" and 3" extensions in the original wood box. However, mine did not have the nifty little offset, nor the scribe you mentioned. I don't know if those attachments were unique to Starrett or not. I am sure what i bought will certainly meet my needs though. Kudos on your purchase though.
Very good video and lesson. I've collected several Atlas Machine tools over the past 40 years but never had the time and room to play with them. Now, I hope to clear an area in my basement and restore 3 them. The drill press was still in it's original crate when I bought that one. Good Luck, Rick
Nice haul. Buy mates for your V Blocks and clamps and you are set. Very cool feature on th B & S center head. As for the horse shoes, you already know how to use them nail one over your shop door! I did 😊
Hi thanks for an informative and thorough video. I have purchased an Atlas Milling machine. Unfortunately no tools where with it . I was wanting to know where you can get the slot cutters Regards Peter
I have a Northfield 8” jointer that was made in 1950. Northfield is a great company. They helped me with technical support when I restored my machine. This thing is a very high quality jointer. Thanks for the tour!
Great video. I need to make a few of these myself for my Atlas mill. I'm curious tho... I noticed your gauge moved about 5 thou when you went from right to left, then back, in the video (at 5:31) even though you had the taper attachment set. My lathe does the same. There must be some play somewhere in the carriage, but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts? Also, I would have finished the end-mill bore after 12:17. It's already running true in the spindle, then flip it and finish the threads for the drawbar at the very end. Thanks again for sharing.
Great demonstration! I'm looking for a set of the "monogram letters" for my own New Hermes, is there a number/name for the set? I haven't had any luck finding them. Thanks!
There are 4 types of monogram letters. The one in the video is a Circle Monogram, 35-359 2 line. Also 3 line, 35-354. An interlocking monogram35-355 or 356. An oval monogram, 35-066. Also a single line script, 35-362, too plain. And single line diamond, also too plain, 35-360.
Did you ever find out if they found another Foundry to make their castings, and I'm curious if that Foundry is in the USA.? It would be awesome if they could make a line of machinery between hobbyist and Commercial.
I agree with what has been said about the slight pitting adding to the chisel, although I am particulary interested in the turning of the handle. What was the large outside diameter of the chisel? what was the size of the two Arch Punches? What was the thickness of the leather used? What was the glue used to bond leather/leather and leather wood? If you could answer these questions I would be very grateful.
