Very nice video -it's great to have such a detailed look at your milling machine. I have a similarly sized (but less featured) mill from perhaps the same era. I've got quite a few different cutters too, but mostly use just 3 maybe 4 of them. It's a real pleasure to use such a vintage but usable machine.
Thanks! I agree that it's a lot of fun to use vintage machines like this. If I were doing this for a living, I'd probably want something more modern and efficient. But since it's just a hobby, I don't mind spending a little extra time using the older equipment.
Thanks! I see them come up for sale on eBay fairly frequently, but then you have to deal with shipping. Atlas made thousands of these, so hopefully one will show up for sale in your area.
@DirtFarmerJay -- Great to hear from you, Jay. I'm doing well. I've got my health and I'm currently pursuing a few different opportunities, thanks to your advice! I'm glad to hear you are doing well. Best, Vince
Again, thanks for your guidance and good disposition to help me. To take the option to make the missing parts, I have the difficulty of finding the blueprints of the machine, you know some way of knowing them. Thank you for your attention.
There is a discussion group at groups.io/g/atlas-craftsman that has several blueprints of parts. You have to sign up to be a member before you can see the drawings. Also, if you contact Clausing Industrial at www.clausing-industrial.com sometimes they will email you a copy of the original blueprint drawing for parts that are no longer available. I hope this helps.
Nice! I have an Atlas shaper that is waiting to be put back into service. Although the Atlas machines are small and lightweight compared to others, they are a lot of fun to use.
Well thanks . I'm getting into the head stock and the spindle bearings are toast , I can't make out the numbers on the bearings ,could you please let me know what part numbers they are , thanks again for posting the video , learned lots 😁
@@prenticeemler7709 The tapered roller bearing is Timken 07087 and the cup is Timken 07100. I documented the process of rebuilding the head stock of my mill on the hobby-machinist forum. Here is a link to that thread www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-milling-machine-refresh-project.30821/
I had finally replaced front spindle bearing on my MFC, This was major ball buster and took me half of hour to accomplish that quest,normally MF series or MFC won't have front collar that located behind bull gear,that is common problem and why Atlas 618 lathe and MF series milling machines fails because of that safety issue not present.. If there is no collar behind bull gear it most likely through some period of time use neather 618 lathe or MF series milling machines,this leads for bull gear loose off and travel further toward front or more correctly toward left side of headstock which ofcourse would cost binding between spindle pulley and bull gear indexing pin that would cost extensive damage,just because absence of front retaining collar.. I made one myself that not retained by 1 but by 2 hex screws,I build that collar from a nut and drilled 2 and tapped 2 side holes for retaining screws,the spindle pulley have one retaining collar behind so as bull gear supposed to have at front one as well... My version of spindle pulley and bull gear have retaining screw's on their own but extra reassurances also critical to have.... The front collar that I made have small keyway to allow pass on keyed front section of spindle when inserted through headstock and rear bearing dust cap which have slot for woodruff key.. When installing spindle it is important that front bearing installed correctly and pressed all way through,by preventing bearing crushings it is advised to have spare bearing race to insert bearing into,this would allow smooth and easy installation of the front bearing,it goes little tight so it is important to oil center bore hole to allow easy installation.. Another step is insert front woodruff key than pass assembly toward collar that positioned behind dust cap,after collar bull gear with pulley and rear collar get passed by the spindle.. Sounds kind of easy but it not,it is a mission to properly fit keyed area of collar so collar slides further to side and free way of bull gear so woodruff key slides further into gear by normal tap of hand,I didn't used any hammers to do such pushing and it was all oiled up which simplified installation of parts... That procedure took me half of hour plus another half of hour to remove faulty damaged bearing first,and next half of hour to install new bearing and spindle assembly... Final result no more wobbles or any playings although test load required until spindle is wormed up and bearing would allow more pushing forward for proper spacing and timing.. The back gear still work tight when it engages spindle despites large amount of oil been sprayed inside and outside handle area,when handle lowers toward center it eases up and get much smoother... Back gear doesn't damages anything at back of pulley although very small tiny signs of wear present... The back gear engages spindle in order to install draw bars for arbor,rather than securing spindle it plays no other roles than that... Ones again I was tested Console assembly with cross slide and everything smooth still and easy going... My MFC assembled mostly 85-89%,rest would be assembled when test loaded and when spindle 100% satisfactory,table assembly would be installed last following by locks and arbor support arm/bar... Another small challenge or issue was locating thin 3/8 motor mount nuts which fits 5/8 wrench,I located 2 and self made third brass material with correct tolerances.. Normal 3/8 nuts too thick and not allow mount get properly angled for suspension,there is T head shaped 3/8 bolt that adjusts motor mount position,4 holes on mount that correspond with motor I have that meet factory spec although it came out from band saw and have exactly 1765 RPM as manual specify... I have self made and casted motor belt cover that requires final fitting and painting.. Another problem I experienced is more art problem than mechanical problem,not sure what color of paint used to paint Atlas MFC and it's parts?? Metallic finish,black satine,hammering,etc?? Very confusing color that I cannot determined,I tried Home depot for assistance but figured out that there onlu stupid idiots operating who cannot assit customers,Auto Zone doesn't have proper spray paint selection,only so far store that have large variety of paint is Doody store but I not sure what color of paint to choose....
Actually Atlas sold 3 different sizes of arbors for there horizontal mills. 7/8", 1", and 1 1/4". Some of the parts like those belt guards and the vertical arbor support parts were not included in the machines base price so there was obviously more of the mills sold than had the belt guards or that vertical support. That's one reason why so many don't have them. At one time Atlas sold a parts kit to update the MF and MFB mills to use that vertical support. Afaik that's the main difference between the MF, MFB to the MFC model. That's the only Atlas I've ever seen with the factory coolant pump.
Excellent video, very illustrative. It makes it easy for me to ask you the following: This machine is in our family history in a special way. After a long search I was able to get it, but it lacks all the mechanism for automatic advancement of the transversal car, and other accessories. Here in Colombia it is very difficult to obtain it, it is possible in the United States. Can you tell me how?
Thank you for your comment. The parts for the automatic power feed are often broken or missing. Atlas no longer sells these parts, so your only option is to look for used parts on eBay. Or make the parts yourself.
Marvin -- You're absolutely right. I have some WWII-era marketing literature from Atlas and they promoted these mills (and their lathes, drill presses and shapers) to factories that were involved in the war effort. Even though these are small, lightweight machines, they were affordable enough that it made sense for factories to purchase them and set them up for small, repetitive operations, thus freeing up the larger machines for the bigger jobs.
Was hopeing to find a Atlas to restore along with the 6 lathes I have, but I'm going to pick up a Sheldon now,, can't beat the price and are better quality than atlas from what I've seen
@@MrHarvard88 man I couldn't believe it,, looked rough in ad but was really hardly used no run out at all in spindle and no movement on dail indicator all through table slide,,, 10 cutters and nice milling attachment with 8 mills and 4 keyway cutters,, 300 dollars so cheap I figured it was wore out,, really a deal of a lifetime. Just don't find them like this one.
@@MrHarvard88 It's the no 0 Sheldon mill really don't take up much space motor is in cabinet under machine so it don't spread out as much as the atlas , just saw one listed for 2200 so l did great at 300
It's actually a fairly involved process to change the drive belt. You have to remove the spindle and the back gear. There is a RU-vidr by the name of ghostses who did an excellent multi-part series on disassembling and reassembling one of these mills. I suggest taking a look at those to see how it's done. Here is a link to the first video in his series ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3US-WLHTsdU.html Good luck!
I had assembled my MFC from piece by piece,it get mostly assembled,however since I repaired front spindle bearing it proven unacceptable and it wobbles up and down.. I would replace it when I have time since I had bought 2 Timken 7100 bearings,those are for front of spindle which standard MF series spindle front bearing.. Ever since my spindle not original MFC version rather than modified Atlas 618 lathe spindle by extending it by 1/2 longer so as rear spacer it reaches exact MF/MFC or MHC (MHC have 1" spindle all way through).. By doing correct extension and modification rear section of spindle have 3/4 diameter instead original 7/8 diameter which is not really a big deal and if somebody want proceed same way as I did than correct rear bearing would be Timken 07079X for such matter,also there is 2 different 07079 bearing one short length as supposed to be and other longer version which over passes bearing race.... I had experienced that problem,read Timken bearing catalog and was surprised that everything should meet spec but the first bearing I had wasn't met that category.. After carefully studying I bought correct bearing,it was required some minor polishings inside but nothing major in order to properly sit at rear 3/4 spindle body.. Recently after I assemble my MFC I checked spindle and wobble was sighted without load test,iam experienced machinist and welder of 25 years of experience and easily can verify any machine malfunction,this experience served me well and I been able zero down all other issues like adjusting Console assembly and cross feed saddle assembly... The reason I used different spindle because I couldn't find original by the time,second original parts very rare to find so I just got whole spindle assembly most from Atlas 618 lathe,bull gear,pulley and back gear most the same from 618 lathe and compatable,however pulley have different belt tracks instead original 1/2 it have 3/8 instead.. I couldn't use 618 eccentric assembly since it 1/2 shorter than MFC so I end up building my own eccentric rod and handle which is 1:1 scale of original MFC concept,it works perfectly,handle engages little tight but not with much problems,the detent engages headstock indexing hole freely and locks,the handle moves freely when goes at bottom but by positioning at top to lock spindle get little hard... The back gear works without any known issues,headstock housing from early MF series,side wall been grinded to fit eccentric rod collar,over all headstock assembly works flawlessly.. The rear bearing dust cap self made 1:1 scale of original,all gears aligned,rear spindle gear faces reverse tumbler lever assembly correctly without any issues.. The cross feed bushing/screw and saddle nut is not original,i couldn't find original 1/2 ACME left thread,I made my own bushing,modified cross slide screw which is close 7/16 ACME left thread and made my own brass nut.. Everything adjusted and calibrated correctly,one dust cap for body cast self made exact 1:1 scale of original.. So over all I made more than 16 parts myself for my MFC,i had spend 2500 bucks for it,puting more money into it would be a waste so I made small parts myself... The table side plates self made from steel rather zink tin alloy,crank handles for lead screw self made with high detailing and much more comfortable use,the table originally had 4 chippings on it but was only cost me 30 bucks for it so I bought and repaired by welding,by welding gray or forging cast iron forms cast iron steel alloy that impossible to drill by conventional HSS or even Cobalt bits,only Tungsten or Aluminum Oxide grinding attachments can do the job.. Despite difficulty to clean T slot tracks after welding I managed to do that job,I had placed T bolts at different areas of table T track and they holds without any issues,this vindicate that repair done successfully.. I also repaired countershaft hanger,main bottom base plate which only cost me 30 bucks each.. The countershaft tension lever self made but exact to original 1:1 scale and works no different from original same way,the countershaft assembly is ready to mount minus pulley's,they would only go on when motor is ready to mount and when I find secondary motor pulley section that attaches to main section.. The motor mount bracket self made,no different from original version and correctly aligns with motor mount,bracket already installed on MFC body,unlike original Philips head 3/8 bolts I used hex hole bolts that allow tight bolts more precise...
I'm not aware of any differences in the Change-o-Matic gear assembly between the various models. The pulleys for the back gears changed from a four-step pulley on the MF model to a three-step and eventually a two-step on the MFC.
What about cross feed table gear box assembly than??Is MF version is same as MFC or vice versa???I planning to buy one but want to make sure I getting right part,I can build my own scope shafts and yokes for it but main parts is always important rather than sub assemblies....I had made my own eccentric assembly that 1:1 exact replica of original part,i also made handle cast which hole drilled as well already for small gear axle rod,need to make specific reaming so it won't get hard to mount on unlike rear portion which was stiff to insert but precise and it counter pinned just as original..I tried rod assembly in headstock housing and it slides in and turn firmly as supposed to,gear mounts also firmly and turns as supposed to not too tight and not too loose,I think smaller rod is like 3/8 or something...Is that true that cross slide saddle screw bearing/bushing threaded end is 3/4x16 TPI??If so than I have a tap and die already,I used previously to rethread modified Atlas 618 lathe spindle by extending rear portion 1/2 longer to meet MFC spec along with spacer,all spindle sub components insert and align precisely with original MFC back gear which identical with Atlas 618 lathe..The Atlas 618 lathe have exact parts like MFC but 1/2 shorter such as eccentric rod,spindle and everything else..I can build all small sub assembly items myself,I have component identical to cross slide sadle screw bearing/bushing that need final editing and threading to screw into Console that mistakenly called knee..Lathes got Apron,Milling Machines have Console and Shavers and Planers have Rocker Arm assembly....Planers would have bottom table as moving part,same as rocker arm on Shaver but opposite location instead top it set at bottom..Shavers and Planers been outdated by Milling Machines,CNC Grinders and Water Jet system that can cut only using very high intensified water pressure..It is not hard to build one but the heart of machine is cutting head assembly with special Tungsten nozzle,the Water Jet could work in tandem with abrossive Garnet powder to maximize cutting capacity..There is an video from one of RU-vid guy how he turn high pressure cleaner into water jet that have 3500 PSI,original Water Jet have pressure around 74 thousand PSI on it,powerful enough to cut fingers off if not careful enough....Funny part that most of USA frozen food that been processed also use Water Jet for cutting,slicing and dicing process,that replaces band saw's and various knife cutting equipment,it also not requires any resharpening after use which save lots of money...The motor that operating pressure pump on Water Jet have 15 HP,very powerful and huge as well,machine must be running at 380 or 420 volts,3 or 4 phased lines...The Water Jet is mostly CNC operated but would work in manual mode as well,the head/nozzle is leading part of machine with CNC feed,majority of gears get cutted on that machine and later go to finishing stage on milling machines or CNC grinders,identical type of grinders that manufacture drill bits or their sharpening at least.The bit start life as nearly flattened piece,it would insert into machine and get specific countered twist,later CNC grinded and tempered,it more hard with solid Tungsten drill bits and their manufacturing cost very high,second after tungsten goes Molybdenium bits or M7 bits,they are pricey as well and it is second hardest metal after tungsten in periodic table,the third would be Chromium and than Titanium..In pure form Chromium very toxic just like Cobalt,Cobalt in true form also highly radioactive and produce lot of gamma spectrum Y radiation particles...There was some scrap intents before in Malaysia and Thailand,unfortunately the poor individuals didn't make it because high radiation poisoning..Cobalt is very dangerous metal in pure form,it only used as alloy attachment for things like drill bits or reamers...
I'm not an expert on pricing. The prices seem to have gotten ridiculously high on ebay in the last few years. $500 to $1000 seems reasonable to me, but it's all relative and really depends on the condition.
I getting my MFC piece by piece,like a damned game achievement....Most parts already acquired,there about 5 subassemblies remaining,spindle assembly is one of them...I can't find arbor support arm that round large bar that overgo to earing that holds arbor...Majority parts like cross slide table there,the part called knee is wrong,it have another name which sound logical to me from European translations,Console assembly..lathe got apron,Milling machines got Console and Shavers not shapers so as Planers got Rocker arm...Not just knowing how to working on machines alone I also know all bits and pieces how they go and connects or been modified like I did with my Craftsman 109,numerous modefications been upplied and things got changed..Spindle now instead near 9/16 become 3/4 size,original components get modified but not changed,last part that would be build from scratch is gear box assembly that normally would undergo at right side of lathe just like larger versions have...There nothing else would be altered like I seen some 109 version gear box attached at rear of gear cover which is wrong....The back gear cover shouldn't be blocked because it gives quick access to gear replacement or lubrication,in the aftermatch extra bed could be modified and attached to extend leathe swing for over 56 inches long,different versions of tail stock could also be made and attached,milling attachment could be made and also installed..But there is things to be in mind about 109 lathe...Originally 109 lathe was made by Atlas Press company for Craftsman,later other variations like Sears or Logan and their parts not very interchangeable without altering like I did with mine..Little change with front stock housing assembly,apron assembly get altered by front area where it lines on bed,cut have to be made backward more professionally that it aligns correct,tail stock saddle also have to be modified by welding extra edges on side and to correct previously made extra wideness spacing plates have to be weld at cut areas and new track areas must be grinded in shape of V downward which I had did....Modifying apron assembly further would eliminate old half nut lever,instead making new half nuts that adjust with simple swing of lever that locks or unlocks nut halfs from lead screw that enables automatic feeding...As for manual control I weld extension plate at bottom with rounded aperture at side that permit installation of hand wheel and feeding gears with worm and at bottom geared rack installation..Prticular modified apron would be no different from larger lathes variation and principals....Last part is gear box,Original rounded bushing like segment where lead screw goes through would be grinded off,instead there is area where gear box would be lined in,portion of Sears or Logan front stock housing have protrusion or aperture where gear box would be screwed on so as sides...In this sense lead screw length would be decreased or shortened because of gear box,if secondary bed attached lead screw need to be longer sized...All that could easily be done,If I did it others might do the same,Atlas/Craftsman 109 is good addendum for MFC machine..Because of their small size and dimensions those machines is easy to transport and deploy wherever they needed..I easily can uplift half assembled MFC,not a paper weight but it not heavy eather as previously imagined....Fully assembled MFC shouldn't over go further than 150-185 pounds..
Yes, a lot of these Atlas milling machines that I see are missing parts or have parts that have been altered or repaired. They were made for hobby or light industrial use and aren't as robust or heavy duty as commercial machines. Certain parts have a tendency to get separated from the machine over the years, which is why you see so many machines without the overarm support or the cutterhead guard or the kickout stop. Plus, these machines are 60 to 80 years old by now, so time takes a toll on things. Just so others know, the 109 Craftsman lathes were not made by Atlas. They were made by the AA company and as far as I know, they don't share any parts in common with the Atlas lathes, other than the change gears.
Yet it is no limit to make my 109 lathe become fortune 1000,instead original BS spindle that was poorly designed with 1/2 thread my new one is entirely 3/4 diameter..I modified original face gear/pulley drive and even made new brass bushings for it,I enlarge hole diameters in front stock housing one I think 24mm and other almost 26 to permit new brass bushings with proper thickness to support new spindle..Front bushing made in original collet like content to adjust tension for spindle,also I made extra tension bushing just in case when needed..Becouse of small gap between front spindle round protrusion at housing I craft special wedge washer that fills that tiny space and further more would eliminate any unwanted frictions for spindle..Original spindle gear hole been enlarged to permit 3/4 spindle size..Becouse of 3 different brand companies who manufactured 109 lathe Which is Sears,Craftsman and even Logan parts not perfectly interchangeable between each other,I did modification on apron and tail stock bottom saddle so alignment over go 1:1 scale precision...However apron takes different approach,I made extension for bottom and welded on,now apron have aperture at side allowing installation of feeding gears,worm and geared rack to allow smooth manual feeding of lathe just like larger lathe versions have..Original half nut lever would be removed from it's former position and no longer useful,instead I had build and crafted split nut with 2 halfs that would upply there,justlike larger lathes operate those halfs would reciprocate by turn lever clock or counter clock vise...Last part is gear box assembly,This one is tricky because of small confined space between front stock housing and bed,so instead standard lathe position lever from bottom to top my version would be from top to bottom allowing clearance to engage specific gear for specific speed that transfers toward lead screw without need to replace a gear individually at mounting area...Bed would be modified slightly to allow new gear box installation but back gear gover would not get involved and won't be modified anyhow...All gear boxes go at right side of lathe instead behind them like many amateur owners do...Ones I seen 109 lathe was sold at ebay,by first glance view I couldn't even recognize what is that,it was ugly modified and lot of components took critical changes,hole at front stock for near 1" spindle that broke tolerances of lathe,the previous owner even build some kind of spindle post extension to support it...Back gear cover was altered and at least cutted at half,very ugly unprofessional modification...My personal modification well estimated and done,there is no parts interruption,no bindings and no spin conflicts occurred,I made even cut for woodruff key at spindle and gear drive,everything fits tendy there without any conflicts,it all fits firm rather loose or too tight..I also did modification on my Wen 12" drill press,original support column is shit I tell you honest,just like all rest of modern drill presses does..They all made in China,but China brakes rules at factory standards and instead making columns thick walled they make them paper thin like almost reminds me tail pipes for a busses or trucks,it is stainless steel rolled tubing than spot weld to simplify manufacturing...I craft my own version of column,I took steel pipe near 3" diameter,cut vertically about 9/16 extra material off than saw at 2 sections..the problem was science pipe walls so thick I couldn't even band them with torch heating,instead punishing further I decide cutting pipe vertically at 2 parts,grinding areas for flush welding and weld precisely that it done from outside in all way penetrated..When grinded I noticed my pipe instead round shape overcome oval,this is when I took torch,1 sledge hammer,1 large mallet and about 1 and 1/2 draw bar and start straightening everything until become fully round,this process was took me like 2 hours perform such task,this was done at my job rather home...Ones results was satisfactoral and I use caliper readings every single minute after banging with hammer until results become near correct..After that I took angle grinder along pneumatic die grinder and start grinding all extra was on after knocking marks..When pipe become look like pipe I sanded with medium grain sand paper,at the end outer finish become shiny...My final result with column become 2.550-2.556 inches OD just like original,matching scale is 1:1 of original,all parts fit 1:1 scale not too tight or too loose..There was bid competition how strong is my welding of the pipe,becouse of heavy weight placement pipe withstand 10 ton pressure and didn't deformed,my 2 co workers lost 40 bucks to me...I told them if you try chalange my welding competition you all going to loose,I have welding experience over 20 plus years long,no one can chalange my welding skills at garage and precision..Most of my welding finish not even need grinder at end,everything get weld flush lined....Machining skills is my next experience with metalworking so as blacksmithing and gunsmithing skills is legendary..Despites been professional machinist and know how to use every lathe or milling machine I also know how to modify it as well,know how those machine components operating.....The lathes have Apron,Milling machines have Console not knee what called mistakenly and Shavers not shapers so as larger variation Planers have Rocker arm..I have experience with all those machines and can operate at manual or CNC mode,doesn't matter for me but one thing in mind by working on CNC mode sometimes there is wrong glimps of second and you have neather over milled or cutted part or broken end mill or chisel at lathe..This is why I prefer manual mode instead so it could be monitored and controlled precisely without mistakes..
Besides,I had also drilled holes at my drill press gear rack and mounted at column,this what have to be done from jump street by factory,this eliminate table assembly wobble from side to side and reduce drill bit friction out of center during drilling operations....because of properly made support column head assembly cannot lean forward anymore because of drilling pressure upllied toward column,table assembly cannot wobble anymore eather so drill press perfectly balanced...Becouse of special milling compound and collet chuck drill press easily transforms into multi speed milling machine and allow permission for small milling vises or clamps use..last thing I don't had enough time to finish is rewiring motor speed indicator,instead plugging wire which turns indicator automaticly on and when you press power button indicator start display wrong motor speeds,the indicator need to be wired direct at power button so when pressing button motor turns on and speed indicator begin display right speeds... This is very nice drill press over all,adjusting speed from 560 rpm to almost 3000 rpm,very powerful and have drill chuck for 5/8 bit sizes,if that seems not enough I have an largest chuck somewhere for I think 3/4 bits and that is final size of Jacobs drill chuck that exist,not remember number 5 or 6 something like that.. As for starter pack to my MFC when assembled I have enough milling saw disk's,end mill cutters and numerous reamers to craft anything out of metal or wood..Another project is Plasma Arc welder machine,based on exact principals like Multiplaz 3500,Multiplaz 3500 is failure in design rather success,incorrectly constructed and poorly designed that power board interfere with cooling fans operation,becouse of wrong value electrolytic capacitors they always pops off which cost power failure at fans operation,in order make them work correct you have to unplug digital rheostats that adjust voltage to torch or secondary power outfit for auxiliary welding or cutting mode 2.. I had designed my torch to accept all standard accessories to Multiplaz 3500 such as anode cups,cathode assembly,retainig end nut,evaporator,insulating glass tube made out of quartz,outer shield,etc...All fits and performs as intend... I made torch cable out of 6 lines instead 3 on Multiplaz 3500,cooling fan for torch 1 wire,2 power wires,1 ground protection wire,and 2 for thermo regulating board that switches secondary cooling fan...Machine almost ready for final assembly except I didn't complete current multiplying boards and didn't find sink with cooling fans..Rather than that all parts ready,there is lot of overload fuses to prevent any possible overloads,rheostats is no longer digital rather than high voltage manual that can withstand 1000 MOhm,mahimum voltage is 600 something volts but torch power line only uses 350-375 volt DC and maximum 12 Amperes current...Torch cable capable withstand 30 maximum Amperes and 650 volts DC or AC so there enough voltage and current reservers to prevent any voltage or current over jump... allow me making doors or windows in addition to cabinets..I always tool savvy,I have tools for woodworking,metalworking,stone and concrete working,electrical jobs,plumbing jobs so as watchmaking and not many peoples heard of small sized dies and taps that 0.30mm in diameter makes them very tiny...My drill bits have smallest size 0.10mm up to 26mm,this also include woodworking bits auger,gimlet,spade,center and spoon types.... Despites that I also have surgical tools as well,I capable to engage all things and probably perform surgical skills along way....There is no disciplines in Scientology that I cannot perform,makes me understand and expand knowledge at new previously unseen things,energy and conversion from gasses to energy matter.. In Scientology there is no impossibles exist,unfortunately peoples turn Scientology into money making business just like everything else,corrupting true points of view into lies...Scientology despites money or greed,it based at universe principals at teaching how to find guidance in life,however there is personal scarifices to be made in order to fully understand things that nobody previously sought anything... Another project that half way done is radiation dosimeter,LCD and main PCB boards near finished,becouse of different projects I don't have time to finish things all way..I also craft my own parts for my Luger P08,becouse the prices is no right I made my own sear assembly,ejector,takedown lever and safety lever without spanding dimes rather than my time on it.. Luger P08 is an art rather pistol,very complicated in design and that what makes it so special and charming,another one is Mauser C96 and Walther P38,one thing make them identical in practice is coned shape of barrel to avoid recoil suppression...All 3 models very accurate at range,old but there is lot of history in them that modern models cannot even compare,precision is what exactly in them and very smooth accuracy.... I have very large experience with firearms,even much deep at things like barrel design and manufacturing and ammo design and manufacturing which makes me completed gunsmith and armorer..the master gunsmith is a person who had completed their knowledge at barrel designs and ammunition design and reloading... In order for me to craft firearm parts I always need original factory drawings,I mostly specify in milimiters rather inches but can switch when needed most..Making or redesigning tools is another thing Iam mastering at,I did with so with one of Stanley planes turn it into Model 62 low angle plane,price for one was very expansive so I did my redesigns to accomplish that task and even made my own handles for it from wood...Another plane I took old Millers and fall and turn it into Stanley model 2 plane,small size but there is also smaller number 1 exist which somehow very very pricey...After bench planes there is even smaller block planes out there but they relatively cheaper than Stanley model 1 bench plane.. My largest plane is number 8 Stanley Jointer plane,I have majority different types of them which would
