I’ve dedicated my time and channel to help and inform tractor lovers, specifically Allis Chalmers fans, but I additionally include the use, maintenance, and repair of other equipment not associated with Allis Chalmers. I have also uploaded many old tapes and films released by the Allis Chalmers Corporation. I hope that you will enjoy these videos as much as I have enjoyed making them for you.
Great video of the CA earning it's keep. Although, the governor is surging. It's probably missing the anti-surge spring on the throttle linkage. Very common problem. They rust away.
Do you find this type of combine collects more of the grain then the new combines? There seems to be a lot of new grain growing in the fields after the combine is gone today.
The All-Crop Harvesters were designed and built when the farmers harvested seed for the seed companies. So the All-Crops supplied a near perfect grain sample with little to no loss of grain. They still do a better job than the newer combines. The All-Crops were built to produce a good quality grain sample, not mass quantities. That’s the trade off.
Is that bracket a factory item that I should hunt for? or did you make it entirely? and if so, made it from what? because I will need to find or make some.! Excellent video and idea!
Very helpful video. Being an allis chalmers fanatic like I am, and owning several D series tractors, it's very possible that I can use this information some day
Is there any modern version of this that is a PTO driven pull behind? We have a small farm and grow grains for our livestock, but don't need a large combine. Maybe finding one of these old ones would work? I just worry about parts and maintenance.
Sure owe you for getting me back to Working with my old girl (D17). Sure, would be great if someone would slowly go thru the fluids, where to ID Bucket fill & drain as well as tranny, oil is pretty obvious, clutch Fill/Drain, Pwr Steering Fill/Drain, etcetera. Also, what fluids go into which hole. Told nearly 10 gallons on one of them and $100. Can't afford to hurt my D17 or put $100 into the wrong hole. Many of us will not admit do not know what goes where so, old iron dies with gunked up innards. THANK YOU so much for your kind efforts on this Vid on our behalf. Karma will boomerang. Thx !!
@@The1952caallis I tried that too. But it isn't coming off without an impact wrench. I just bought one supposed to be delivered tomorrow. I've needed one since my pneumatic impact bit the dust. This is a cordless, 500 lb torque. Thank you for the info. I'll try that with the impact wrench and hopefully it'll work.
@@The1952caallis Explain then how the straw wouldn't end up on top of the uncut crop when opening up another strip or doing the first round on the headland without putting the straw over the fence. Long as you dont mind going round and round anti clockwise then it would be fine .
@@samskeeter1 When opening up a field you would go clockwise. This will drop the straw on top of the uncut crop. After the first round you switch direction and go counterclockwise. After running All-Crop harvesters for over 20 yrs. I have never experienced any issues with running the extra straw through the combine. It doesn’t lug the combine down, I never had to slow down and it never made the grain sample bad. So you my think that it is a bad design but it works very well.
Great video, let me add. If your PTO is difficult to slide off, add penetrating oil at the top of the pto then TIGHTEN the nut below, then loosen and retighten until you notice the pto moving. This will free up the seal and allow it to slide off.
I’m thinking after reading a few of the guys asking the same question as I did about you laying the mower over on its right side to get to the clutch to pull it off is what I’m thinking that you drained the oil out of this mower a day or so before you made this video at least that’s what I would have done to make sure no oil was able to get in the head. Or upper part of motor.
I didn’t drain the oil. This repair should only take about 5-10 mins. Have all of the necessary tools and parts ready. Roll up the mower over outside. Start working on it once completed flip it back over.
My question is this toro mower laying on its right side or ,, do you have it raised in the air and working on it on the under side with mower over the top of you. You didn’t say and from watching the video. It looks as it’s laying on it side
I rolled the lawnmower over on its right side. I did that because the right side is easiest side to roll it over on, and I have no means to raise it up to work underneath it.
Someone needed to walk ahead and give the bales a quarter of turn before they used the bale loader. Some roto balers had a tray when the bale was ejected turned a quarter.
A lot of green grass/weeds bogging it down. Ground speed is a bit fast and why isn't the scourclean weed seed separator working? They were a great feature that no modern combine to my knowledge has, they just dump them back on the ground to grow again.
The 200 series balers were made by Jones. Once Allis designed and produced their own Balers,which were the 300 & 400 series bales, Allis broke ties with Jones.
Dennis ; question - ok working on d14. Took the power director clutch off the main shaft to work on the tranny. It was gritty oil covered, so thru it in solvent, and pulled and dried the next day. because i (originally) could not get parts, i reinstalled, and am in the process of a re-shim check, following your vid and my manual. One problem - the clutch wont' engage in high or low. I don't want to over-force, but it won't budge. I am dissadvantaged, because i never drove or started this thing before doing all the work. Do you have a guess why this is happening. Only parts i took out were the front two gears to remove the circlip holding the director on. I'm stumped.
never mind - got it to engage correctly this a.m. Looks like soaking it in cleaner left it without any lube, which made it harder to engage. re-oiled shafts, plates, etc and it popped right in. off to shimming......
