Welcome to Nuts & Bolts with Tone. I am an ASE Certified Master Gas and Diesel Technician, working hard in this industry for over 15 years. As a flat rate tech, I've worked on just about everything gas and light truck. Nothing is greater than diagnosing and fixing a really challenging vehicle. I've learned a lot along the way and want to share that knowledge with you. On my channel I will be showing you a range of repairs from general to more difficult. I will also be showing you different diagnostic strategies, approaches as well as processes. I will also be sharing my large tool collection ranging from cheap but useful to expensive and worth it (even some that are worthless). Last, I will show you some really great tech tips that will help you out and make you more money regardless of how long you have been in the industry.
My PP3 says C B on it and it seems like the circuit breaker is fine. I opened it up and there is continuity between the two soldered legs so I think my issue is something else. Anyone have some suggestions?
Yup, prepare to change EVERY rubber hose you have to touch when doing this job. Its not that hard, but 20+ year old rubber hoses are trashed......while the engine itself is super reliable, it looks like a BMW engineer designed it by how nonsensical things are placed. Best is to delete all the intake plenum coolant hoses by just bypassing them. Super easy to do and saves all the headaches of removing the intake and removes 6 possible coolant leak areas.
Goodluck buddy . It takes us about 2 hrs to do a 1234yf. And we use the snap on machine that has 134a and 1234yf. Also in some 1234yf it has sensor that you may need to open up using a scan tool.
Crazy question on the 4.6 2V - is it possible to have a blown head gasket and other than the coolant level going down that it still runs great. I installed a Dorman intake a couple of years ago. I have looked all over for coolant leaks and there are none that I can find. The engine oil is fine, no coolant in the oil. I've checked all hoses fittings heater core radiator water neck intake manifold, and its all dry. Is there anything I might have missed? The cooling system is losing about a quart every 20 miles. In two days I'll be able to check for gasses in the coolant. Other than the coolant level dropping, it runs fine.
Nice job, but Felpro garbage? You're a brave man. Also, I do oil the bolts. I use machining oil. Just a few drops on the first couple of threads. I know Chrysler doesn't want us using oil, and that's great on a brand new casting. But on an engine that's been to the moon and back? I'm lubing the threads. Think about all the stress you're putting those threads as you have to do the sequence twice to pre-stretch the new bolts. Oil is your friend.
@dariuszszwagier2522 you want the vacuum hole to be there and to be honest I had issues with aftermarket pumps and even Mercedes pumps not from Mercedes. I'm currently working with someone to help them with this problem and turns out the aftermarket pump they got is not working. They went to Mercedes and bought a water pump and should be fixing it.
CUSTOMER HAS TO WAIT AS ANYTHING OTHER THAN O.E.M. PART'S WILL MOST LIKELY NOT HAVE THE CORRECT WARRANTY GUIDELINES. THIS IS COMING FROM A 45 YEAR TRUCK TECHNICIAN AND 15 OF THOSE YEARS WERE IN MANAGEMENT AND WRITING ESTIMATES.
Hi. I have a 2011 Sonata with only 38,000 miles. It has a new battery battery and starter. It has no power to anything and no crank. It started three times using jumper cables, but then stopped that also. What should i check? Thanks.
I have a 2008 jeep grand cherokee with this engine is it still going to be same process or is there other shit that i need to do ? I would prefer not to remove too many things and this method looks promising.
@spontaneousideas7701 I tested the wiring, the solenoid multiple times and load tested wiring so the only thing left was TCM. Funny thing about this was e sent out TCM to be rebuilt and after getting it back vehicle was doing the same thing. Service advisor had me replace the solenoid and it still did it. I had to get on the phone with the rebuilder and tell them exactly the driver that was failing and after that it was fixed.
I just hate torx bolts period. They striped so dam easy. You have to get a pick to clean the bolt to get a torx bit inside the dam thing. Go back to a bolt for christ sake. Or a allen bolt. I swear they make new stuff just to sell you more tools. The load light test I think sorta expensive for me. When you was off work for 4 months was the time to make load test lights yourself plus other tools. Am glad I never had to work on diesel stuff hate the smell and dirt of that stuff.
That’s a big tool haul lots of great stuff I ordered the sunex torque adapters just waiting for them to come I couldn’t justify paying snap on when I don’t use them very often. Hope you are doing good say hello to Mrs nuts and bolts hopefully you get back to doing some livestreams again
