This is a custom cat back I had made locally. First, we opened up the dual pipes right after the cats. I believe the stock size is 1.125" and we went to 1.5". (We matched the diameter of tubing of the cats). This made a huge improvement on low end torque, it's actually noticeable. Then the pipe necks out to 3" and goes into a vibrant ultra quiet resonator. All the way back at 3" then into a magnaflow muffler. There's an electronic cutout between the inlet to the muffler and the left side exhaust tip, therefore bypassing the muffler with the cutout open. It does drone on the freeway pretty bad, a helmholz resonator is definitely needed. Also maybe a more free flowing muffler might cut down on some drone.
@@GTurbski oh interesting. I replaced my PCV because the cam seals are weeping oil and the glove expanded at 1500. 06 xc at 178k. Don’t see why else the seals would weep
@@alexsvolvo7056 seals will fail with time. If your PCV was completely failed you'd have more than a weep. Did you find anything damaged in the PCV? I'm not saying in your case the PCV wasn't failing, just pretty typical to have some neutral / slightly positive pressure at higher RPMs.
@@GTurbski I paid a shop to do it and they mentioned the banjo valve was clogged but they didn’t specify anything else. The timing belt was changed at 135k by a dealer and I guess they didn’t change the cam seals at the same time as recommended. Typical
@@Andres-dd4um I didn't own the truck at that point. Going off of the documentation I was given, no fluid changes between 0 and 120k. I would've added one more in there had I owned it, though.
Well Garrett, you had me with the first “F”! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I was sitting drinking a beer, staring at this stupid f’n Volvo, contemplating this hot mess, and you made me feel better. Volvo really does some stupid f’n stuff. I’m buying a Lexus. I’ve had enough! Thanks for the rant!😂
I know this video is old but i just did a muffler delete on my s60 and was wondering how this compares in terms loudness of just the muffler delete. Also hows the drone with this setup?
This sounds better than just a muffler delete. Actually sound quality is better for sure, loudness is probably similar. The drone wasn't great to be honest but WAY better than with just the muffler delete.
@@nate_23 couldn't agree more. I really enjoyed it. I used a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and the magna flow muffler. I think the vibrant resonator was good but I would maybe go with something different for the muffler. Borla or something else might sound better.
@@GTurbski sorry for the late reply but I was going to go for the Borla XS Muffler because I heard plenty of good things about it. I'm totally gonna do this to my car.
I noticed the XL16 additive is for the 2014 and newer 6r80 or the older 6r140, I have a 2011. Im wanting to add some when I change my fluid. Would you happen to know what years its applicable for?
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in any year 6R80. Keep in mind, the XL16 modifier is meant to be used with new clutch packs or new transmissions. I don't know how this impacts a worn out transmission (like in my case). If you don't have the squawk noise, I wouldn't use it. A good old fluid change will be just fine.
I would do another flush until it turns red, not a mechanic or an expert just because my OCD would be killing me 😅. Great video hope it fixes the issue.
That's the plan! Having a drain plug makes it a much less involved task. I figure I'll run this fluid until my next oil change interval and do the trans as well.
Two Questions: 1) I noticed that when you installed the new transmission pan you left the filter sitting in the pan while installing it. I thought you needed to "insert" the filter first, then install the pan? At least that's what I've seen in multiple transmission videos on TY. (yes, I have no life) 7:44 2) Is 203 degrees normal operating temp for Fords? 18:45 Good video, truck sounded like it was shifting pretty good.
Hey! Good eye. So normally yes, inserting the filter first would be ideal however, with this pan the way the filter hangs down it would get stuck on the drain plug in the pan. So what I ended up with was pushing the filter up positioned correctly in the pan and using the pan to seat filter in its home. This works just fine since the pan holds it in place anyways. And yeah, 203 is normal "high end" temperature for the trans. The instructions for checking hot have a range (192F - 201F).
With the metal clips on the horn connector - You don't need to pry them out, simply squeeze it and release. Finger pressure is all that is needed, no screwdriver!
I have had my car squeaking for some time. I finally figured out the bad pcv valve when it was pushing air out of the cap and when pulling the oil cap it had alot of vacuum. Now replaced im getting a #2 misfire. Could this be related and is it possible the oil pressure sensor go bad from this?
Sounds like a heat shield rattle. A loose mount or a universal joint going bad. I've heard a torque converter rub sounding like that when stabbing the throttle. Back to heat shields...trouble shoot by duct taping anything that might rattle. Duct tape is not the fix, it's the tool to troubleshoot. G,this last line is not for you, I know you know better. Good luck.
I'd absolutely get the trans checked since even a small tranny issue can become a MAJOR $$$ eater. Check tranny fluid, maybe replace just to be safe, see what that does. Could also check torque converter or perhaps ? Could be around the axel? Maybe something jumping or jiggling and rubbing? but that sure sounds like metal squeaking.
I had the same issue with a 2015 F150 5.0. My problem was due to the crappy low viscosity transmission fluid that comes from the factory. I put 2 oz of lube guard instant shudder fix in the fill hole on top of the transmission and it stopped making that noise. I’m not a mechanic so do your research, but it helped my problem out.
Thats way to vague of a description and way to hard to hear threw a video. Plus i thought i heard it early in the video. I dont know how someone can help when you cant give an accurate description.
Put it in 4Hi and see if it does it? Could be losing vacuum on the front hub iwe's causing the axle and bearing locking syncronizer to clash. Loss of vacuum at those auto locking hubs will cause a very similar noise.