Great video, however mine did not boot up after flashing it. Just a blank screen. Read online something about flashing a chipID license to it, but cannot find any way to do that. So it’s completely unusable. Very frustrating indeed
Same question as @oldblokeh. Is it possible to kill the burst on the Pi video out to get a true monochrome signal? Can the Pi video output be programmed to non standard scan rates? Especially really wild ones as used in the earliest days of post-mechanical true electronic television? Is there a programming guide for this? I would really like to produce true 60Hz mono vs the NTSC 59.94Hz color sync speed version test pattern generator. Even my RCA 2F21 monoscope tube Indian Head test signal generator conforms to the latter because of the Fairchild 3262 sync gen chip I use for everything. May one day build a true 525/60 mono sync gen for it. But, after I retire in a few years. (My 2F21 project can be found on YT as "The Chief".)
Got one of these to look at but my ex let the kids poke their fingers in the tweeter. Tried to pull dent with hot glue but then diaphragm became unglued from the suspension membrane, this destroyed the voice coil. Spent an hour trying to separate the diaphragm only to discover the coil was now broken but spare ones are available from ali ex for around €15. 25.9mm diameter of vc. Well, if this one has all that damage I will retro fit a Bluetooth amplifier. There is one available with 2 main outs, a subwoofer output with level and frequency and bass and treble for the main outs. 200W in total.
Is there any chance of revealing the component shopping list mentioned early in the video, it would simplify getting the correct replacements ?(not being lazy just time-poor!). Excellent video, watched it through to the very end, I admire your due diligence....
Replaces unnecessary, failure prone and over engineered switch mode power supply with proper transformer and rectifiers. How it should have been done in production IMO. (I hate smpsu’s….)
It was originally… until they designed the ‘Brilliant’. Some Brilliants were even stuffed into a circular drum to fit where the toroidal trafo was designed to go.
Had a fantastic time, we arrived the day before and stopped in a hotel, my first time at retro tech, it was Jon Joe who talked me into going, soo good hoping to make it a regular event.
Hi Andy, all the Clarinet und Flute 16" tabs don´t work in section C"2-B2 (Extended Bass off)....no sound. Additionally the Nazard 2" 2/3. Where can I exactly look to fix the problem? I also have the service manual with schematic diagrams in there. Clarinet, flute 16 and Nazard work great from C3-C6.
Ah the "distinct smell". Isn't it just wonderful when it hits you seconds after touching the iron. Though it pains me to say it as a bit of a Linn hater, these are actually pretty good besides the usual bad caps.
Nice work coming up with a solution. I never cease to be amused by the fact that several thousand pounds cost (not "pounds worth', note) of equipment can be rendered useless by the failure of humble components. I just restored an Arcam Solo for GWAAC and had to replace all 13 front panel tactile switches because the contacts had tarnished.. Press the 'next track' button and the drawer would open, for example. Apparently a known, and inevitable, problem. Original cost of the unit? £1300 or so. Cost of replacement switches? £2.
@@AndyDoz Yes I found the follow up vid. One fault we got was a frame collapse, turned out to be the mains cap. Did not expect that one. Thanks for the videos.
Doz, I'm not quite sure why you added the 4:1 balun after the antenna tuner. The antenna tuner will provide the proper match without it. In fact this setup would cause the tuner to not properly tune the antenna. No need for the 4:1. Also this antenna tuner is designed to to handle the unbalanced / balanced transformation but you just added unbalanced to balanced again by inserting the balun.
Ah.. it will (according to the manual).. and whilst it will match the impedance, it doesn't actually balance the line. The RF ground side is coupled directly to the ground of the RF input. The tuner will still provide a match, it doesn't care (nor has it any idea) that it's followed with a balun. As I'd burnt out my original balun, and removed it, the performance is superior with it in place, with much reduced common-mode current, even in the original design without any chokes in place.
The most stupid plug's ever are TV aerial plugs usually have to make them ovel so stay in the socket usually end having to solder them on why can't we use f connectors
Given that they were invented in 1922, perhaps we owe them a little break ;) The later thinner tin ones were shockers though .. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belling-Lee_connector#:~:text=It%20was%20invented%20at%20Belling,as%20high%20as%20957%20MHz.
They are either too loose or too tight and when pulling hard you always get a sliver of braid piercing your finger! If you don’t get a splinter of metal from the cheap plug first. G4BTI
@@AndyDoz Oh, I was referring to the actual band (i.e. going to higher frequencies); maybe I expressed myself wrong, because I wanted to say I want to install an antenna for 10MHz and above
There's also a mod somewhere on youtube to improve the picture quality by sorting the poor impedance matching. It involves removal of a resistor. I'm yet to do mine.
Nice telly.. Those early Japanese sets were very well made but not much consideration given to ease of servicing! The Tiny SA signal generator/spectrum analyser is a handy machine for injecting signals with problems like this.. Good for tracking down RFI(radio frequency interference) sources too. Shango uses one in his newer videos for generating 455 KHz IF signals.
nice set lamp for its age looks great , nice repair despite being lead up the garden path by the original circuit , never quite understood why mid run they change stuff and then you end up looking for a revision on a shaz number why not just call it a b type or something
I did away with the small section of pipe and fitted it directly onto the end of a 10ft pole. I had to shim it a bit but it means it looks neater and sits centrally on the pole. You also hide the coax inside the pole of course... No good for a telescopic mast though 😂
Nice. There's a new antenna video planned. I've filmed a bit of it so far. I've been unhappy with the performance of my HF set up, so I've made a few modifications.
pretty interesting design, it had pads for what it looks like an ESP32 module, but at the same time, they have a fully fledged TI SoC just lying around there? why can't you just add a wifi module to it rather than adding an esp module? seems weird
Indeed - I suspect the camera is used in different units having different requirements. This is very much a fixed installation, but I can imagine wifi being useful for a portable unit. Also (although not shown in this video) the mounting bracket for the camera needed an adaptor to fit. My bet is it originally used a different camera, and as the product evolved, this was made to fit from a later design.
Interesting video. Parking at RetroTechUK was very tight, but I did manage to park down near where you were, a little earlier. Aimed to get there a bit earlier after the problems with parking last year, when Comicom was sharing the venue. Nice haul. I got some good stuff too, but rather different 😉. Thanks 👍 😀
This video is basically exactly my current idea I ended up with the tp4056 for charging and a separate 5v dc-dc boost What board is it you got that had both on 1 pcb ? I would of suggested tethlon tapeing the battery pack
Seeing the quality you got, I think for my purposes, I'll go with an "anycast" device into an HDMI2AV to display stuff on my CRT TVs. The couple seconds of delay won't be an issue for what I want to do (display chat messages and notifications for my streams).
Thanks, I’ve had an early Zeppelin in pieces awaiting some action for a few years now - similar symptoms with blown supply plus the FETS on ch1 of the amp board blown to bits - both the 25V and 5V fuses on the PSU board toast which was going to be my first port of call before even thinking of tackling the amp etc - but after what you’ve found I’m inclined to try the amp transplant - useful to know it has 3 channels as the amp seems to have 4 channels with the sub being bridged somehow from the left and right as it passes back up to the outputs 🤔 Could be interesting 🤨
Yes, my friend, the RetroTech event was a brilliant day out. WI was there looking for a few specific tubes (got lucky finding those); record player cartridges (didn’t find what I was looking for); 1 pole 12 position rotary switches (didn’t find any of those either); new capacitors (did okay finding what I wanted), and included on my list of German, French, Australian, NewZealand, Canadian, and American tube radios ‘wanted list’ was a Telefunken Jubilate7 (introduced around 1956) - I got very lucky bagging one. Though it requires general cleaning, electronics servicing, including RF & IF alignment touch up, and a full purge on its cabinet, it nonetheless is functioning on all bands - a bargain for £3, yes, I paid a mere three quid for it. There’s no way I’d miss RetroTech: it’s so satisfying delving in, having a good old rummage, and I love chatting with interesting like-minded people. Best regards, Phil.
