My Channel is all about things I do alongside some tutorial Tutorials. Mostly all my videos revolve around electronics and high voltage. I'm careful at what I do and there s no need to tell me how to do things unless its the sharing of knowledge of which I fully appreciate. Feel free to leave comments on my videos. I will answer them usually by the end of the day!
Ok.all good stuff. But the sound quality is NOT that good. Sorry man. You are working just one hand-id so I understand. But the other hand. 😎 your videos are good the training IS 👍👊👍of good stuff 🤟
if the flyback came off that board, its not an AC flyback. you find AC flybacks in TV's from the 60's and earlier usually. That board you showed was from the 90's i believe (you're making me feel old). Flyback transformersd out of large Sony trinitron tv's like that have really powerful flybacks with nice hot arcs.
I was wondering about those old utility mount ballasts. I assumed they were just a momentary HV ignition which then feeds 60 Hz line voltage and that it was simply current limited 120 via the ballast afterwards. I like ZVS but I have LOTS of flybacks and projects so the ballast tricks are just too convenient to skip. Too bad they are going rapidly extinct along with the flybacks.
That sunction cup rubber is very good if u put it in front of sucker .. cuz during soldering it doesnt get melt at all and u can pickup desolderd residue easily
Hey brother this is really cool man,. You should take a look at the video Where that guy makes a set - up that you're system looks a whole lot like his. He claims more than 800% over unity, It called the [ Robert Adam's motor]... He made something that looks, kinda like You're system, ... He didn't use a read - switch, to break the connection, he made a small 2 inch disk, out of thin craft -wood, and made a connection to touch the top of the disk, and fixed a star shape out of metal to go on top, of the disk,... When the connection slide around it would, make connection " when it touched the star. Then as it moved on Around it would break the connection. Anyway he was pretty much up in the age, I think he was 74 years old, at the time. He had told someone that he was Threatened by the " BIG OIL " But siad, He didn't pay it any mind and put his charging system, OUT for people to put It to good use. Oh, yeah, ONE MORE THING," his system Was, Very adjustable, like he designed it, so that the ( mount, that the coils) set on, could be turned Left or Right... The Coils, themselves could be moved In, a tiny ways, and back out, ( Twards The Magnets on the rotor, & OR Back away, from them). That along with the side to side, adjustment of the ( Coil - Mount) Really gave him a freedom To adjust the system" SO, MUCH BETTER, Than anything else I had ever saw,.!! I mean it could, pull amps & current, like, right out of the air.
You have a DC Flyback, the AC Flyback would hold no charge at all, also I pretty sure because I actually disassembled an identical tv! Your board out of the tv is the same as mine, the Flyback in that tv is a DC Flyback.
hey mate. i strongly suspect 9v batteries can’t supply the sort of current them coils connected in parallel would be asking for. a 12 v motorcycle battery or an old school car battery charger with smoothing caps could supply all the amps it needs to go faster. nice engineering.
The ballast puts out roughly 600v rms at about .6 ma. It’s awsome and quick. Be sure to ground your stuff lol. And plz wear sunglasses if your playin around a lot it does produce a high enough Uv rays to hurt your eyes bud. Nice vid ty for sharing.
were you shocked by the Ballast or the Flyback? With the ballast make sure its properly grounded to earth ground. there should be three wires to it, earth, neutral, and live. Make sure you're utilize all three. if there is no green (earth ground) you can make one by connecting a wire to the metal casing. make sure you expose bare metal if its painted. If you're getting shocked by the flyback after its unplugged its because there is usually a built in capacitor. to prevent this I always remember to short out ground and the HV line after it has been unplugged before I touch any part of the flyback.
@@corbonzo1 i was shocked by the unplugged ballast, it wasnt ground idk if that makes a difference (it ofc does with real world applications, but I didn't think i had to with the flyback)
If you beef it up, pule it with a feedback coil tied to the gate of a mosfet and connect the thing to marx generator. You will need high woltage capacitors. Those you can also make at home with aluminium foil and some plastic sheets
what a pointlessly rude comment. The video is 7 years old taken on an ipod when I was 13, in my garage next to a ham, do you really expect better production quality?
Does it need to be a magnetic ballast? I made one and a CFL circuit powers it but I hook it up to any 3 of my philips advance ballasts and nothing? Just curious what I'm doing wrong. I know the ballasts work...
DJ Maxus hmm I’m pretty sure it doesn’t have to be a magnetic ballast but I could be wrong. I’ve heard some ballast won’t power on unless all the leads are connected. Have you tried putting them all in parallel?
@@corbonzo1 so like all red n blue wires together and then the yellows together? I haven't tried that yet. I did try crossing different wires ect... with not even a spark. But yet that little cfl works.
@@corbonzo1 so I hooled the blue wires together and then the red together and capped the yellows and get an arc now but its only about half the size as the arc from the cfl ballast. Just doesn't make sense. Is it frequency? I would think a 8 foot t12 ballast would be more powerful than a tiny cfl.
@@perrykaleb6 thats good news! that mean all leads just need to be used. parallel will give less voltage but a higher amperage which is useful for certain applications. now try series. one yellow to flyback. both blues to the other yellow, and then both reds as the other flyback lead. If that works it should give you the optimal HV from your ballast. It has been a long time since I did this project, I recommend writing down every combination of wires from the ballast you can think of and trying each one and record the results. They seem to be pretty hardy and I never fried mine. thats the way I figured out the best setup and a lot of ballasts are set up differently
Nice video of a "Obtainium" material motor. I do the same, surface mining for Obtainium to build with. I discovered with my pulse motor that Reed switches can't handle much current and will weld the contacts together sometimes causing poor performance or make it inoperative. Hope you took everyone's advice and changed to hall effect trigger. Anyway, great build it looks like.
Yes please replace this video with something more stable. A video you can actually look at , and you do talk a lot but not saying much. Change it and I would like to watch and share you videos....
