The 61 Morris reminds me of my one, same colour. It was an 850 with the thin tailed oil fed primary gear. Rapidly changed for a 1098 with Cooper 12G295 head. Sadly written off due to frozen mud and cow's dung on a country lane. Glad to see this one in great condition.
Good video. I agree pressurizing the head to test is a good way to test the seal. This is how a good shop would do it. That said, you mentioned in the video the reason you don’t use vacuum for test is because of leakage around the stem. But there is a solution for this. I use surgical tubing on the stem and valve to create a 100% air tight seal and it works perfectly. I have a video showing this method.
Thanks for commenting, I have not forgotten about this thread and the missing damper, one person has it correct. I will reveal all on my next livestream, which is going to be monday 9th September at 2000hrs BST cya there…..
In most Japanese manual gearboxes, such as Toyota's C52 (used with the 4AFE engine), the clutch disk and pressure plate are bolted directly to the flywheel. Do you need to balance the flywheel every time you change the disk and plate? Wouldn't this weaken the flywheel due to the numerous different holes being drilled in it?
@@ACDoddso I should balance the flywheel without the pressure plate and then when I put it on the flywheel, I should just change positions on it, until I find the one that doesn't make the flywheel out of balance? Or do you mean that I should remove material from the pressure plate too?
much like the stiff carb piston in the dual setup, the single HS2 was probably original with a significant amount of friction for the piston to housing. depending on the oil used you could go without the damper if it is able to slow the piston drop enough.
Just out of curiosity can plugs like that be cleaned up ok with a wire brush? I know new ones aren’t expensive and anyone would put new ones in. I’m thinking for while I get the carb/timing right. And then put the new ones in. Or does wire brushing them damage them. Cheers
Wire brush won’t be enough, a blowtorch would also usually be required. However this sort of damage is best cured by simply replacing them. I also lean off the carbs before restarting to avoid the same problem happening again.
A resistive force created by a small aperture. That should work. It raises several questions; how was it tuned and why was this SU designed with a damper. Nice😊
I heard somebody say that you have to look at the SU piston damper the way a suspension damper works and these would not work without a piston with inner valves. Well, damping is all about friction, fluid friction in hydraulic dampers. Perhaps in this case the piston itself generates enough friction to dampen itself?
Just to update Steve tells me, that on his European trip, a couple of days ago he hit a huge 58mpg (imperial gallon) that beats the original factory setup for these original VDP metros. Excellent effort Steve!
No, as this is part of the crankcase ventilation system, as long as the system is still as the manufacturer intended all is good. However, if there is another vent on the engine that is open to air then yes this is not correct
So, what would be the necessary surface rougness for a multilayer steel gasket? Is there any reference value to aim for? Iron block and an aluminium head.
I wouldn't of been seen dead in a Metro in the 80's but that one was really nice and i almost had a hankering! An affordable practical classic that can return over 40mpg - where can i sign up? Just so long as you buy 7 gallons of unleaded and a pint of waxoyl at each stop and the car will live forever!
Great video as usual. I've improved my own car so much thanks to your informative vids - but I can't wait for the true 'Chalk & Cheese' experience if I can manage to book you up here in the Midlands at some point next year.
Clearly there is more to setting up these clutch assemblies than meets the eye. Earlier this year I battled with a pre-Verto Mini clutch which was reluctant to disengage properly. After replacing almost all the other clutch components I eventually concluded the issue must be with the backplate/straps/diaphragm setup. On inspection the straps were at different angles and only one had a spacer washer. At that point I gave up and fitted a Verto clutch which works fine and offers a much nicer pedal. I'm not racing so it doesn't matter if it can't handle much torque.
