I am a professional woodworker holding both carpenter and cabinet-maker journeyman certifications in Canada with over 40 years of experience. I operate Finishing Touch Carpentry in Thunder Bay, Ontario and specialize in stair-building, stair railings (balustrades), cabinet-making, mud-room units, storage cabinets, reclaimed wood projects, and other custom carpentry.
I have trained four apprentices through the Red Seal program, and I enjoy teaching and mentoring others.
I am a professional writer and have been published in several genres including Christianity, fly fishing, hunting, carpentry and construction.
My channel will feature many of my custom builds, tool reviews, wood-working tips and tricks, innovative build designs, and how-to content for both beginners and professional wood-workers alike. Along with content on running a business, training apprentices, and choosing the right customers.
If this sounds like great content, hit the SUBSCRIBE button and leave a comment.
@@gregschultz8871 Yes technically you can. My concern would be scratching the floor when you screw the post down onto the floor. Hope this helps, Scott
@@thawillyfish Thank you Martha! I haven’t had a comment like this before! It’s interesting work. Meticulous stuff. I do enjoy it but sometimes it’s nice to do something like framing that doesn’t take so long. Thank you for the comment. Cheers, Scott
This is so good, you're so good at explaining clearly! I'm currently in the midst of drawing stairs but just wanted to know for my own sake what dictated the height of a newel post and baluster.
The used gel kneepads look like CLC brand knee pads. $25-$30. They're good, but the rubbery silicone straps do get lost and do wear out. I like the CLC''s best of the ones I've tried so far. Those silicone straps work well. They give. They last work better than elastic fabric bands and definitely better than velcro-fastened bands. I have yet to find knee pads that don't make the back of my knees hurt. If they have straps good enough to stay up during work, they also constrict around my leg to where it hurts after awhile. I have a clean set of kneepads for working on nice floors; a set for outside in the dirt, sand and mud; and a set with a hard shell for working on concrete. Those Troxells look interesting to try. That wide band might be the answer.
Thank you for the comment. Yes I've found no irritation on the back of my knee from the Troxells. (And I have noticed that with the other knee pads for sure!) I've been using The Troxells for several hours continuously too. Cheers, Scott
The clc soft pads are my go to pads.(The clear ones) They seem to last longer than most of the readily available ones from big box stores. My work pays for safety gear so when the straps start to go I just get a new pair and turn in the ticket.
That's ideal that your employer pays for them. I had those clear ones for quite some time before the tabs broke off. I can't seem to find them anymore. Thank you for commenting. Scott
So I picked up the Invis and find that the drill bit and the metal guide bushing get really hot drilling in white oak. In the process of installing 3 element/stud pairs the drill bit has turned blue which is never a good sign. I've cleared chips as I progress through the drilling process. It's a real struggle to get it to cut through the material which requires pressure which generates more heat. Have you encountered any of this? The system works great aside from the bit most likely having lost its temper.
Hi Paul, I have never used my Invis on white oak. Only red. I did notice heat when I first used the bit and I believe there is some break-in process required. I use a silicone spray on my bit regularly. And I plunge in-and-out with the bit as I go. If your bit is shot then you should contact the supplier. I am going to do a review on the Invis at some point and I will be making suggestions. I do think it's a good piece of equipment but I believe some improvements are in order. I had a really good relationship with the Canadian Lamello rep but he has since retired. It might be worthwhile finding out who the rep is for your region and reaching out to them. Regards, Scott
Full disclosure, did not watch the video (been doing this for 10 years now) but the thumbnail you looked so much like the guy who taught me I had to check it out haha. Looks like from the comments you're teaching great stuff, thanks for doing that in a way that doesn't make it seem impossible to those out of the industry.
I have no idea why you would turn the newel post upside down to mark your rake line. You can get the same results , no matter how long the post is by keeping the newel post top up! I usually mark down about 2 or 2 /2” ( top of rail ) then mark down 36” from there. The difference between that line and the rake line is how much you cut off the bottom of the post. Obviously your method works but there is 2 ways of skinning a cat. The same applies to newel posts.
I love that expression about "skinning a cat." It's one my Dad uses all the time and I get a chuckle out of it very time. I do have videos on the method you suggest. Here is one you can check out if you like. Thank you for commenting, Scott ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3oTuyRfThUc.html
Hi Scott, I'm hopping that you can answer this question for me. I have a staircase that goes up and then turns to the right and goes up another flight. It is a 38-degree slope. I know I need to cut a 45 at the top, but do I make that 45 also a 38?
@@DaleDansie Great question Dale. Without seeing pictures I will assume you have a landing at the turn? If so, transition to a level piece of railing before you make the turn and do a 45 on the level piece (level piece to level piece). Compound angle cuts on railings rarely work out because of the contours of the rail. If this doesn’t work or make sense drop me an email. Cheers Scott
Great video again Scott! You always to a good job. Not sure if you do this not, but I've driven screws into the stringer right through to the tread & riser right behind where the newel attaches to the stringer. That way you eliminate any movement at that point, making the stringer rock solid to anchor to. I too like a marking knife. I use one without a handle on it so I can lay it flat on the surface I want to mark if needed. For iron balusters I sometime use the smallest portable cordless bandsaw that DeWalt makes, you can use it one handed, and hold the baluster with the other hand while resting it against a saw horse or bench, eliminates the problem of burrs damaging the finish and flying all over making a mess. I love it and a right angel grinder with a flap disc on it to clean up the edges. If you are a tad long you can just grind it down real quick too. Instead of burning an inch or using fastcap's tape, I use a regular tape and burn 10 inches. It's a large enough number where I seldom get confused as to what my real measurement need to be. I seldom mess up with a 10" difference, but frequently got confused when burning just an inch. Hope that makes sense. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for taking the time to drop me such a detailed comment with all these tips. I like them all. Screwing the stringer to the tread makes a lot of sense, as does the band saw idea and the grinder. I've seen those cordless Dewalt bandsaws and I think there'd be other applications for that tool as well as your idea. I have that battery platform already. Of course there are times when I don't have my Burn-One handy so burning 10 makes sense too. One of the things I love about connecting with other makers through my channel is that I am also learning lots as well. Cheers, Scott P.S. Where are you located?
@@scottearlsmithFTC I'm in southeast Michigan. You've shared a lot in your videos that have been helpful to me, so I like to share back. Never know if someone can use it. Recently I picked up an aftermarket cordless hot glue gun that takes DeWalt batteries. I have yet to use it on the job, but I plan on incorporating it in my work flow like you do when doing stairs. Don't know why I never thought of that. Right now I'm working on building a custom tapered newel to go in a Arts & Crafts home built in 1929. The stairs is small, but there's also a big mantel, with an over mantel, built in bookcases and cove molding on the walls. I did a LOT of research in designing everything. Trying to keep it historically accurate as much as possible.
@@t.e.1189 That sounds like a very interesting project with the newel and mantel. Closest thing I did to that was trim work, mantel and window seats on a home built around that time frame. I used rough-sawn 4/4 red oak and milled them up in my thickness planer and saw to a finished 9" wide. Then a shoe mould along the floor. Doors had the plinth blocks and the header with bead and crown. The mantel and window seats were more contemporary. This was all before I got onto RU-vid so no videos of that. I appreciate all the tips. I have seen guys on RU-vid with the hot glue gun. I'd be interested in a link to that item. I have fly fished the Pere Marquette, and Ausable Rivers in Michigan. Not sure if they're near where you are from. Cheers, Scott
@@SusanFrerichs-n5u Wow Susan! Just the encouragement I needed. I was just contemplating the whole practicality of the RU-vid journey. It’s a lot of work and a slow climb in the first several years with little benefit at times. I will keep going though. I enjoy passing on what I’ve learned over the years - many of which came from making mistakes. Encouragement like this is what keeps me going. Thank you, Scott
Outstanding workmanship and explanations as usual. Seeing that folding ruler reminds me of when as kids we would take dads tools out into the woods to build our "forts" even though we had no idea how to use anything beyond a hammer and nails! We drove dad crazy!
@@MrRustyjackson Thanks Jay. I used to think the folding ruler was a thing of the past. Just like hand planes and other old-school tools. But they do have a place and there was a reason our Dads owned and used these tools. That said, my Dad gave me an old cast iron black and decker drill (older than me) with a rigged light switch on the cord. My cheeky response to this gift was, “Gee Dad. Is this part of my inheritance?” Good to hear from you! Scott
@@jpdthe3rd thank you Jessie! Glad to have you on board. So many little things we do that make a big difference in time and quality. Where do you operate? Cheers Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC San Mateo California! I do things a differently, much more of a classic approach and what I have at my disposal. I don't have the time or space to make videos. I also work in a much more production oriented environment
@@jpdthe3rd Very interesting. Sounds like I could learn a few things from you for sure. I enjoy the filming and editing process but probably couldn't do it if I was working in that kind of environment. It takes a lot of time and consistency - and it's really a long game to get where you can actually see any financial benefits. I think you're wise to keep at what you're doing. Cheers, Scott
That is the Lamello Invis. Check out the videos on my channel on this magnetic joinery system. Thank you, Scott ru-vid.com/group/PLUBalg95MClB4VeNIXirM7dnr108b-S61
It's distributed by Finitec. The same company that makes the clear coating. Here is a link: www.finitec-inc.com/en/products/details/finish-applicator-11 Thanks for commenting. Scott
@@d.a.veneziano9651 If you mean the stair nosings on the original stairs, the best thing to do is cut them off flush and then add the new treads over top. Hope this helps, Scott
RU-vid seems to be a backpacking trip and a long-distance marathon to go on alone and far away. I hope that your channel will gradually develop as you strive for your dreams and that it will continue to thrive as a very large channel. I want to give you Outside the small but simple and beautiful cafe window, it is getting brighter in the dark blue atmosphere for a peaceful morning. Thank you to the algorithm that made it possible to enjoy your videos happily for a while. I am not lonely and I am so happy that I happened to watch your videos in the endless universe-like RU-vid world. After watching your video, thinking about it now, your video came to my heart and instilled emotion and happiness in me. I spend today drawing happiness in all the videos I love and pour my passion into the RU-vid world. When I watch your video while watching your video while the petals soaked in the spring rain whistle, even the clean memories. My dream crosses the waves in the distance. I open my phone while looking at the view of the cherry blossom trees in the window welcoming the early morning in a green atmosphere. As the algorithm introduced, I just looked down
Am late to the dance anyway nice clear instructions question for you what type router bit did you use in in 2200 to make grooves for panals Many thanks
Better late than never they say! Glad to have you aboard. Enjoy the channel. The bit I am using is a freud rabbeting bit set. Here is the link. Cheers Scott www.freudtools.com/products/32-522
@@LawrenceMathon Basically I am following the instructions that come with the Zipbolt. I believe it is meant for ease in installation and to allow for micro adjustments on the install. If you drilled a half-inch hole you’d be threading the post onto the rod which is not how this system works. Thank you for the comment. Scott
This video will explain the easing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ypakOiREKhg.html Watch the rest of the videos in that series to see how it came together: ru-vid.com/group/PLUBalg95MClAuYPRINbMAvcSpfk4QHYgr Hope that helps, Scott
Beautiful job sir, I'm currently costing my own house to save a staircase which is over 100 years old, the rises and treads won't change but the stringers need to be cladded, I've never don't anything like this before but know I have more knowledge by watching this video I'm a little more confident (great tip to use a template)
This video was very well presented with small details that can make or break the job. I'm very confident that I can make a staircase armed with your tutorial, even without that sweet Festool collection. Cheers!!
I'm glad the video was helpful. Thank you for the encouraging comment. I'm sure your stairs will turn out great no matter what brand of tools you are using! Cheers, Scott
