Pretty simple channel with the main content being centered around my hobbies for boating, bowhunting, and family. So no fancy video productions to be found here!
I have always appreciated how-to videos, so decided to create them for boat maintenance/questions in hopes they will help others out. If you have a suggestion for a video, send me a comment and I will see what I can do!
I agree it is not necessary. As for Volvo and the quality of their info - it is not perfect. They have inconsistent (incorrect) oil fill quantities for the V8 Gen 5 engines between the workshop manual, service manual, and operators manual. It has been incorrect for years!!!
Nice video, but in my case I tried to pull with a small plier and came right off, very little effort and not much space to pull it out, maybe 3~4 inches. Otherwise I would lose a nice weekend on the water.
@@iowabuckeye I just started the DIY projects on my boat, I live in SFl and worked at a full service marina. Id watch the guys do the 100hr 300hr and see what they were charging and what the owner would tack on I decided never again. I just did the bottom, that job will stay subbed out. Lol. But glass work and any 100/300 hour or something I can Google will be done by myself.
Agree - most of the regular maintenance is really simple. I can have it done before I would have even arrived at my dealer if pulling it there. Big time and $$$ saver for me.
Gel coat was applied way too rhick. It was hard to level and you took off more original grl coat around the area bc of excess sanding. Why rush? Apply several light coats. It it ends up this thick, leave the tape on and scrape with a razor blade help at 90 degrees. Its a guitar finish repair trick. Google videos of guitar finish repairs to learn. Ive used it a lot. A repair should be perfectly level if you donit right. Run the b palm of your hand over it to check
Yea agree it was too thick. First time doing it and I was extremely pleased with the results. The sanding block kept me from removing excess of the originall gel coat. Very smooth final finish! If I do need to do it again, I will use less tape. Thx for the comment!
I'm glad it came out good. Gel coat is thick. I wasn't trying to be negative. Sorry if it came off that way. Anytime you use the sanding block, you will take off some extra material on the side, in my opinion. This will show you the razor blade trick. It's fast and works great. I think it would have worked well for your situation. I've done a lot of nice finish repair on paint and other finished. Full disclosure, I've never corrected gel coat! I'm getting ready to put some 2 part clear on bass boat deep scratches and buff my boat. ru-vid.comUydSMZGOwno?si=OP6QHkWyrYG8WkB1
I do appreciate your comment. Any tip that may help the next time I need to do it…. For some reason I can’t open the link you sent on my phone, so will try the next time I am at my PC. Thx!
Great point on exhaust manifold anodes! Those are often overlooked. I did just do an extensive search looking for a magnesium version of 21403633, but came up empty handed. I also looked at the VP parts catalog and only see an aluminum part number for the manifold anodes. The VP parts catalog for the drive does call out 3 part numbers (Al, Mg, Zn), so not sure why just the single type for the engine?
YES! Water needs be on before starting the engine and not turned off until after the engine has been shut off. It will just run out from the pick-up vents at the bottom of the drive until the engine is started.
Very nice sir !! On my Regal 28 Express (no built-in flag pole holder), I attach my US flag using clips attached to the top of the VHF radio antenna. Works a charm! Clips are available at West Marine.
I would measure out the old oil volume to ensure you have as much old oil removed. My vacume oil extractor has a tube that goes down the dip stick tube right to the base or close to the base of the oil pan. I doubt the vacume oil tool you are using is reaching the base of the oil pan as the tubes normally terminate an inch or two short of the base of the oil pan.
The extractor pump I am using does not extend down the dipstick tube, but rather attaches to the top of the tube and uses the entire length of the dipstick tube to extract from. The tube terminates on the port side of the lowest point of the oil pan for the V8, and at the rear of the pan for the V6. Is your engine also a Gen V V8? As there is conflicting information between the 'Workshop Manual' and 'Service and Maintenance Manual' for the Gen V V8s. Workshop states 6 qts, Maintenance states 7.5 qts (both with filter change). I did put a note to reference this in the video's description, as I assume many may be over-filling. Thx for the comment!
So far I have been very happy with the engine/drive. About 110 hours on it now, with the only issue being a leaky yoke seal on the drive at about 80 hours. Which was covered under warranty. Maintenance procedures are basically the same between the V6 and V8, and I have a playlist that covers most everything (will add to it as I do more…..). Good luck with your possible purchase!
What pump did you use. I tried this last season and was able to do everything but pump in the oil because the nozzle at the end wasn’t long enough to screw it.
Did you try the pump I have linked in the video’s description? It is just a cheap plastic one, but has worked for me. Is your drive the same type as mine?
Last time I used some silicone grease on the impeller shaft before installing the new impeller and it made removing it significantly easier, this time around.
Great video. Very informative and very helpful. I changed mine on my Volvo penta. Looks to be almost intentional to yours. Mine was 3 years old so I decided to change it, when I pulled it nothing looked wrong with it at all. The change out went smoothly. But when I took the boat to the lake it almost immediately went to over heating. Have you or anyone ever had this problem before? I don’t think it would have debris in the system with the old impeller being in tacked when I pulled it out. And the boat was not overheating before I changed the impeller. So I am confused as to what the issue could be.
Yea I'm not sure what it could be either? Something simple to check off is to ensure you closed off any hose flush-port you may have connected to when changing the impeller. If you did connect a hose and the cap on the flush port is not tight, it will suck air and not allow the impeller to operate. Good luck finding the issue!
The Gen 5 engine calls for the impeller to be replaced every 48 months or 200 hours, whichever occurs first. I do it every 2 years (60’ish hours). And keep a spare on the boat.
For anodes changing them depends more on how corroded they are versus how long they have been installed. I do boat in fresh water, and changed my anodes to magnesium versus the aluminum the boat came with. Your comment is timely as I was thinking about making an ‘anode’ video.
@@iowabuckeye cool! I’ve done oil change and filters myself thanks to you’re help and saved thousands from the marina so a big thank you🫡 I’m in saltwater and a bit worried that my anodes are under 60% . Motor got 90H under its belt
Glad to hear you are finding my videos helpful!! That is the whole reason I started creating them. I did just create/post an 'anode' video. If yours are at 60%, I would swap them out for new. I think the salt water ones are only about $25 if you have the same type of drive as mine? Cheap insurance to keep your drive looking nice! Here is the link to the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ks52UAS-S8E.html Thanks for watching! IB
Yea as I said it is not necessary. If your trailer is loaded and the tongue weight is set correctly, you’re not going to get much (if any) ‘rattle/clunking noise’ coming from your hitch. I do pull a smaller utility trailer that can make noise when unloaded/hitting bumps. The silencer eliminates that. Thx for the comment!
I use a bolt, washer, lock washer, & nut. Cinch it down tight & you're good to go. Also it acts as a theft deterrent. Most thieves won't take the time to un-bolt the hitch as they want to get in & out as fast as they can.
Yes - easy peasy if you have great access and if the impeller is not seized onto the shaft. The puller just makes it so much simpler and removes the possibility of damaging the inside of the housing.
I am not quite sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? A 5.0 will not be a Gen 5 engine, as the V8s are either 5.3 or 6.2. If you have a 5.0, I found this video which may help you. Thx. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qOSt6dEJyPQ.html
Hey, thanks for the video. I was able to follow it to a T. One question, after you changed the trim fluid. Did you reset any sensor's that monitor the gear oil, for when it needs to be changed? I read something in the manual that your suppose to reset it, but I did see mention anything in your tutorial, so thought I'd ask. Great tutorial btw!
Good question! I believe only the OceanX type drives have the sensor which needs to be reset. Not required for my drive type. My manual does contain the OceanX reset procedure within it, as I believe it is a 'standard' manual. If you do have that drive type, you will need to reset the sensor. It looks to be real simple. When I have a minute, I'll also go back into the video and add a caption/comment in description for those who do have an OceanX drive. Thx for the comment!
Just put my 2018 Volvo Penta V6-240 in the water a couple weeks ago. Started right up and all seemed great, however it did not have much low end power and I'm getting a single short beep every 60 seconds. Water temp is fine, fluids are all good, battery is fully charged, no leaks to be seen. Any ideas? I haven't been able to find much help for the single, periodic one minute apart beep on-line.
I just looked in the operators manual. All I see for a 1 second beep every 60 seconds is for an OceanX drive. Stating there is water in the u-joint bellow, water in your drive oil, or low drive oil. Any chance you have an OceanX drive? If not, I am not sure. Not much low end power seems like it could be a fuel delivery or fuel quality issue. Is your fuel pump whining? Old non-treated fuel?
Don't have an OceanX. No whining that I can hear. Does not run rough at all. My thought was fuel related also. I've always used E0 from the same source. Treated the fuel when I pulled it out for the winter. Will try a new fuel filter.
Good luck - please reply back and let me know what resolves the issue. I am curious what is triggering the beep? Hopefully the filter will help. Else, small chance it will correct the issue, but you may also want to swap the plugs out if you have not done so recently. My engine calls for every 72 months, or 500 hours (whatever comes first). I assume the V6 would be the same.
I thought I had found the problem but it wasn't it. My coolant level sensor had come out of the bottom of the tank. Probably happened last year when I replaced the impeller. Must have just vibrated loose over time. I replaced the fuel filter. Checked the oil level, coolant level, battery and spark plugs. Those are all fine. Is there a scan tool a hobby mechanic can use? Or is this something that the dealer has to take care of. That's a big hassle because it's sitting on the lift on the lake. It is a timing problem getting the boat in and out of the water due to zebra muscle quarantine.
I bought a nock off oil filter before winterizing boat last year. Well first lake day and oil leaking from the cap like crazy. I couldn’t find the OEM oil filter anywhere. I’ve tried ordering multiple times. I’m guessing the oil-ring that came with the filter is the wrong size. Is the o-ring a specific size? Has anyone ran into this issue?
The link I provided in the description of the video is for an VP OEM filter. I can't speak to issues with knock-offs, aside from there are probably plenty! Thanks for watching.
Actually I did not add links to my video descriptions until the end of March this year. So since you purchased last year, it was not through a link I posted. If you did purchase through my link since end of March, can you please let me know what day you placed your order? I can then inspect the link you ordered through to ensure it is correct. And if you do order through my links, they are to OEM filters. Thx.
Thanks for the compliment! As for Vaseline, I have been told petroleum based lubricants are not good for rubber. I did a quick search and found this real quick on the web, see the last paragraph. That o-ring does take a bit of patience…. Seems too big/wide for the groove. www.rubbercenter.com/blog/agents-and-habits-that-cause-rubber-to-deteriorate
Go here and enter the serial number of your drive to see what type of documentation is available for it. www.volvopenta.com/your-engine/manuals-and-handbooks/ What I actually show in the video is the 'Operators Manual'. Typically those are available for free download from the Volvo Penta site. If not, you may have to purchase it. I have also purchased a hard copy of the the 'Workshop Manual' for my drive through the site. It is part number 47713910 for my drive (DPS-D1). Don't take my word for this part number though, depending on what drive type you have. Enter your serial number, and the click the 'cart' button to verify the part number. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, IB
By drive screws I assume you mean the prop nuts? If so, the one for the forward prop is 45 ft/pounds (converts to 61 Nm) and the rear prop nut is 75 ft/pounds (converts to 102 Nm). I do mention the torque specs within the video as I am installing the nuts.
Had my 2019 Regal 28 Express (identical engine/stern drive) in heated indoor storage all winter. Launched it on Friday and she started right up after six months. I think using E0 gas really helps. Serviced the stern drive, prop shaft, new impeller, fuel separator and oil filters (along with all fluids changed) back in November. Didn’t need to winterize the water systems due to indoor storage. All was good and I noticed that the new impeller helped temps by a few degrees, during a 45-minute shakedown cruise, much of it at a 25 MPH speed. Thank you so much for all of your videos - extremely helpful series.
Glad to hear things went well with your launch! Yes I also only run non-ethanol fuel. 91 octane 'recreational fuel' specifically, which I get at our local Kwik Star stations. I am glad to hear you appreciate the videos. I'll keep making more, as long as I have ideas!!!
@@iowabuckeye There is precious little out there on the Gen 5 engines, and especially on typical “DIY” types of tasks even for those of us who are mechanically inclined. Your videos are clear and concise. Your engine is much more accessible than my 28 Express’s is !! One idea that would be good for many owners would be a “walk around overview” of the engine, pointing out all of the key parts and where all of the items are that require attention (filters, impeller, fluids, belt, and such). Kind of a “reference” type of video. Just a thought. Also - where do you buy your Volvo parts and fluids?
Good suggestion for a video! As for where I get my parts, I order mainly from Amazon as I am not near a VP parts supplier. I have received this question from other viewers, so recently have gone back and added Amazon links for parts available through them into the video descriptions.
Literally did this today but put our boat in the water. Had to use both batteries to start it though because I didn’t pull my batteries for the season. Will trickle charge them at the slip next time I go. Do you go to Coralville? Noticed you’re in Eastern Iowa.
Yes! We are in Marion, so CV is the main lake we visit. We get a yearly ramp pass at Scales Pointe Marina. We have a Regal 2300, steel grey upper hull with a black boot-stripe. I was tempted to hook it to the truck and bring it down there after making this video today. As it was absolutely beautiful out!
Nice. Went to college in CF and lived in the Iowa City area after. Now in western Iowa and boat at Lewis and Clark lake in South Dakota. Older version of same engine in a 22 ft boat that sits on a floating lift all season.
I installed the impeller housing after summarizing and now I hear a grinding sound and the belts don't spin... I've taken it apart 2 times now and the same result. Any ideas of why?
What maintenance did you perform? Did you just replace the impeller? Or did you replace the entire ‘housing’? Is your engine also a Gen 5 or some other type?
What did you put back together? Did you just install the impeller or install a new housing (water pump)? What engine do you have? Is the boat running when you hear the grinding? Or does it fail to start? Without some additional info I cannot offer any opinion.
@@iowabuckeye I just put back the housing after it was taken apart after winterizing. Now it won't start. I hear alarms and then a grinding. Also no belts are spinning.To me it sounds like the water pump is seized.
If nothing is spinning I would suspect your battery or battery connections. Have you checked your battery voltage and made sure your connections are clean/tight? The ‘grinding’ noise may actually be your starter solenoid clicking.
Sorry, but I have never looked for the PCV valve. A quick google search on a modern GM 5.3 liter engine shows it on the front/right side. I took a quick look at my boat and don’t see it though? Maybe it is possible VP moved or removed it when they set it up. Or GM has moved it from where the picture I saw showed.
Try using popsicle sticks to mix the product and you can use less paste but proportionate the hardener, just measure correctly. One layer of painters tape works well. Acetone for cleanup.
A popsicle stick was my first choice, but couldn't find any in the kid's craft supplies.... And next time I will only use 1 or maybe 2 layers of tape. Thanks for the comment!
Great videos, well done and informative without mindless dead video! Would you happen to know the bolt sizes for those 3 cover bolts? Mine got lost by the guy did this last time for me.
Thanks for the compliment. I try and stick to the point and address questions I feel folks may have without getting too long winded. What 3 cover bolts are you asking about? My drive cover has 5? Did you mean 5, or am I thinking about the wrong bolts?
I'm going to be fixing hairline cracks and dock rash soon and I'm going to use gel coat paste as well. I have to look into spectrum everyone says there great at matching colors. Yours came out great.
I had thought the same thing so poured it into a jar and let it sit for 2 weeks. There was no water separation, so assume that is how it looks after some wear.
@eagle5720 What part number VP lube are you using? I know the Mercury gear lube is blue/green. What I use is more of an amber/clear as can be seen in the video.
If you look at the first few seconds of the video, you will see blue/green lube in the pump's tube. As the last time I had used the pump was on a Mercury outboard and it was still in the tube. I did clear/pump that out before I started filling my drive.
I completely agree! I only put in as much as I am able to take out, then check the dipstick (which is about impossible to read...) to avoid an under or overfill.
Thank you for making this video. I have similar scratches on my boat from doing the exact same thing. I got a quote to repair for $800 and this convinced me to try it myself.
Please respond back and let me know how it turns out! It says to just let it cure for a few hours, but if in no hurry, I'd give it at least a few days to fully harden like I did.
No, sorry I do not have other recommendations. I would just google 'custom patio furniture covers' and see what results you get. Then spend a few minutes reading Yelp (or other) reviews for the particular company. If your chairs are a fairly standard size, you may just want to try your local big-box store. Such as Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Wal-Mart, etc.
