Welcome to my channel Witty 924, and if you enjoy my videos please subscribe and help me create more. Thank you! I started this channel with the project of restoring my 1984 Porsche 924 2.0 back to a great road-going example of the first classic front-engined transaxle car that Porsche launched in 1975. Having had such a great response from RU-vid visitors and channel watchers I am now expanding my videos to cover general reviews, maintenance and upgrades on my daily drivers and looking for more classic car projects to work on. (maybe some modern project cars too :) I welcome all of my subscribers, and watchers to recommend types of maintenance, car topics, and future project cars for the channel. Thank you for all the support, for subscribing to my channel and for taking the time to join me on this fun adventure with cars. You can also follow my podcast at anchor.fm/witty-924 Witty 924
Good work. Your dust shields are on their last legs, just like mine. Couldn’t find new replacements :(. I would avoid using a hammer against a ratchet wrench though.
none of those parts you got even fit my BEA engine code i have a Y pipe instead of a 3 way connector like you got im so confused and lost and all the BEA engine code pcv system parts are fucking outrageously expensive compared to AMU bam and or engine codes making this the worst and biggest nightmare car ive ever fucking owned in my entire fucking life.
@@Bangerboy985 is this the hose kit you have on you engine. Sounds like you have a 225bhp not a 180bhp. Let me know www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176336719155?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2-oszhl0s_6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8h9VmC7aS7i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@Witty924 I do have a 225bhp however the link you provided I believe could be correct however I'm not sure because I can't spin the Y hose thats there also.... the hoses that have a yellow cap on i have no idea where it goes. I have the whole kit minus that Y connector
Great video - thanks! Did you ever trst the fuel pressure gauge after you fixed the issue? Just wondering if your fuel pressure really was zero due to the split hoses?
@@youngsyr thanks for the comment and support. So the gauge seems to be all good, there is an amount of pressure required to make the gauge work and I had 2 large splits in the pipes in the tank., which I did in the next video. With the amount of psi the pump gives it doesn't surprise me the fuel just couldn't get passed the splits to the gauge at the back of the car. Anyway, all fixed and running great again. 👍
@@Witty924 Great, thanks for letting me know - I have a non-starting 996 Turbo that seems to be fuel related and have already ruled out relays and fuses. Mine doesn't catch at all on ignition though (but will if you spray Easy Start in to the intake). Next step is to pressure test at the fuel filter. I really don't want to have to go diving into the (full!) fuel tank, but no specialist can fit me in within the next month, so I may have to!
@@youngsyr sounds like a fuel issue if you do get a start with the starter spray. Check out my vid and have a look into the tank, just take it step by step. Even if you just get to look into the tank to see if the pipes are ok or split. If they are good then it is most likely a pump failure but that's tends to be a little more rare. Let me know how you get on 🤞👍
Bautiful Europa...its funny i see some Europas had twin windscreen wipers and some had just a single wiper. Anybody know why is it like this on the Europas?
@@tazotazo7862 thanks for the comment and support. It was the infamous fuel pipes on the fuel pump and swirl pot. I did a couple of videos to show the problem. A new pump unit fixed the issue and the car is flying strong again 💪 🚙💨👍
Hi Karl, thanks for the comment. So set your suspension to the highest level that way the air suspension will.not try and over adjust as you jack the car up. The ladder chassis has lots of great points to lift the car and place jack stands. Use a few as its heavy. I hope that helps 👍
Hey quick question thats a bit off topic to the video. In the beginning at 0:00 (visible again at 15:00) there is a red tube running down and left. What does this connect? My 924 has the white plastic bit but no hose and I can't figure out what it's supposed to be connected to Would be super thankful for some help
Hi Pepe thanks for the comment. Great question. The tube connects to the back of your alternator. It provides direct cooling for the unit. The cooling hose can be bought in various colours too. Hope that helps 👍
Hi Stait, thanks for the comment and support.i went for a Magneti Morelli fuel pump. I recommend autodoc as they have a number of options you can consider. The fuel hose you can get from design 911 or eBay. A few places sell them. They range from £20 to £30. I hope that helps 👍
Many thanks for the video. It resolved my reverse switch that was not working anymore. I followed each step of the video and miracle, rear lights, door mirror and rear proximity sensors are working again ! Many thanks for the support
@@Witty924 : I’m considering getting a 924 for my daughter for her 18th, so it’s been a relief to hear how simple they are to work on. It sounds like they aren’t too much more difficult than a mk2 Escort, although the fueling system sounds like it could be a bit of a faff.
@@frazerguest2864 It's great to hear you are considering one. It certainly has many similarities with other 80s classics, if you have a good tool set, a place at home to wrench and a little time, they are great cars to get your hands dirty on. You are right about the fuel system, the CIS systems can be a little temperamental, but there is always help around the corner. What model 924 are you considering?
@@Witty924 : Insurance-wise, there’s very little between the 2.0 and the S. I had been window shopping later S’s, but there’s a Romanian chap who sells kits to supercharge the 2.0 using the Eaton blower from a MINI Cooper S, which boosts power up to around 150-160 bhp. The biggest contributing factor is going to be the condition of the bodywork. Whilst I can weld to an acceptable standard, the oily bits are a lot easier to change than cutting out and fabricating new metalwork. I’ve had enough of doing that over the years with old Land Rovers !
@@frazerguest2864 I hear you on the old landy, they always come with a welder :). There is a good video by number27 on a 924 with the supercharger kit, goes well. The 2.0l was my preferred route as it was an easier engine to tinker with. The 2.5 is a smoother unit and hits the 150-160hp mark you mention. As the 924 was galvanized from the factory, they seem to weather well, that said the sills can be the weak point. Let me know which one you choose, it will be great to see. 👍🤞
Hi indy, thanks for the comment and support. So that is the front undertray that they all left the factory with. Over the years I'm sure many 924 and 944s lost them. Check on eBay to see if you can get one. 👍🤞
Mine is BAM 225 so it’s a bit different than but I did remove the intake manifold because it’s broken the elbow pipe ..F and …BG both RIP so badly)* I’m thinking to make those PCV plasticky-things have all silicones or metals in them
Hi Hella, thanks for the comment and support. So definitely look at the silicon hose route. Lots of great kits out there ans they will last well, plus you can get some great colours to match the car exterior paint. 👍🤞
Hi Everyone, I appreciate all the great comments and feedback. I need to update you on a mistake I made on the video. I have realised that I had the pressure test kit set up the wrong way round. The switchable valve should be after the gauge reader. This is important because you can measure system pressure at 75psi/5bar and then control pressure at 51psi/3.6 bar by switching the value to a closed position. I have re-run the test and confirm that I do have low pressure and when you close the valve, the pressure drops to a regulated pressure of 3 bar 41 psi. So I need to raise the pressure with a fix on the WUR. Thanks for the understanding everyone 👍
No mate you did have it set up correctly in the video. The tap goes between the WUR and the gauge. (Haynes manual calls the WUR the control pressure regulator too) Closing the tap checks system pressure as stated on page 77 paragraph 8 of Haynes manual.
@@Danny380bhp thanks Danny, so I took the WUR off, cleaned it up again, no blockage found, I also adjusted for warm/hot pressure and I got a reading of 52 psi but with the pressure kit set up as stated above in my pinned comment. So I thought I was out of the woods. The car is running well, I took it for a 5 to 10 mile trip, all good. I have a long trip this weekend so I will keep an eye on things and fuel mpg. Got to love the old classics haha 🤞👍🚙💨
Just remember that the WUR and Aux air valve are just devices that aid the warm up of the engine (act as a choke) and that once the car is at operating temperature they are no longer doing anything at all. When at operating temp - WUR is closed and no longer flowing fuel through & Aux Air valve is shut completely. Gotta love the classics!
@@Danny380bhp we are on the same page. The adjustment I made was to ensure it was definitely closed when warm/hot. I did the test and adjustment on the AAV so that is operating as it should be. Have you ever tried adjusting the pressure valve in the fuel distributor unit?
Great video, Whitty! I would love to see you do a video on how to modify the WUR. There are a few written articles out there on how to do it but a video would be so much better. Also, I have that exact same testing kit and it leaked terribly from every connection. I think I spent more time trying to stop the leaks than I spent testing my pressures.
Hey Tim, thanks for the comment and support. Next video I will cover the modified unit that I have done, I need to get a decent close up of the modification 🤞. Good spot on the test kit, I picked it up for £35, I added some of my own rubber o-rings which seemd to do the trick, as you said, my first test I created a small fountain 🤣
Great to see another 924 video. Just an observation/question, when you turn the ignition key from off to on the fuel pump should prime the system. Usually last for 1 to 2 seconds. This is ahead of you engaging the the starter via the key. It could be irrelevant, but I didn't see the ignition on prime the system. Easy to check, just turn the key to on without switching it to start. You can do this more than once to see it it primes. Might not be part of the running problem, but will impact the start up. Is it worth checking? Baz
Hey Baz, thanks for the comment and support. You make a good observation, so I believe on later cars the prime happened on start up but that maybe the bigger engine 2.5. (Might be wrong). Also it can depend on the fuel relay that you run, I think some have an extra pin which sends power to.prime on the first click of the key turn as you say. I need to double check what fuel relay I have, it would certainly help on the initial starts 🤞👍
Hi mate, your incorrect. Control pressure should be low when cold and then gradually raise as it warms up. When warm it’s at system pressure which is 5bar. Page 77 of Haynes manual shows graph with pressure raising from cold to hot. Warm up regulator transmits low pressure to plunger/air sensor plate when cold which allows the plate to raise higher and send more fuel to the injectors when cold (simulates a choke) As it warms up, pressure raises and it pushes down on plunger/air sensor plate which reduces the extra fuel to the injectors. Also 12v feed to warm up regulator just heats bi metallic strip quicker which raise fuel pressure quicker. If you were to unplug it would essentially take longer to raise the fuel pressure to plunger.
Hey Danny, thanks for the comment. This is why RU-vid is so great 👍. So with the pressure I'm getting would you say things are working correctly? I didn't think the pressure should be so high? Having read a few forums and watched the classic wheeler dealer episode with Ant, there seems to be varying views on pressure. I checked out Haynes and read the part you mentioned. It says the system pressure of 65 to 75psi which would suggest I'm in spec. But as you say cold pressue as the graphs suggest a starting pressure of just 20 to 30 PSI roughly. Any thoughts welcomed 🤞👍
When the WUR warms up it essentially closes the flow through it and raises the pressure to system pressure on the gauge. IF the warm up regulator was blocked or stuck shut you would see system pressure at cold. I think yours may be blocked.
@@Danny380bhp Thanks Danny great suggestion. I have refurbished this WUR, so I need to inspect it again and see if I have a blockage. The inlet gauze can sometimes be a potential area for debris to experience blockages. Have you seen any other examples of WUR getting blocked up, I want to save myself from ripping it apart again 🤞
@@Witty924 the best thing is to remove the gauze completely and fit a 6mm x 10mm filter inside the banjo bolt itself. You can never get the gauze fully clean. I got my filter from mrinjectoruk
@@Witty924 I was going to say the same but Danny beat me to it. If the bimetallic strip resistance is in spec, and the WUR has power to it, then its probably crap that accumulated in the little mesh screens in one of the fuel outlet/inlets. Easy enough to clean, a lot of people do away with the screens as they are prone to blocking. The adjustable WUR is a mod I have done and its quite handy but it only works in one direction. I cant remember if it increases or reduces the control pressure. But if you need to go in the other direction you have to take the WUR out of the car and manually adjust the position of the fuel cell.
