Good question! I have always used these LED bolt lights; gives us some redundancy if one light fails too. Have had a pair of these (or similar) on our Jeep Commando for the past 8 years without an issue. Worth noting though, use small round quick disconnects so they don't get in the way of changing license plates. I only change them when I have moved from one state to another, but it makes it quick and easy. www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-LED-Lighted-License-Plate-Bolts,103752.html?CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkdO0BhDxARIsANkNcreq-P_hKpVDyDEBgqI9LgSZAFqk582BUfQolkOtiMK6PcnEi2w3wGkaAuhNEALw_wcB
@@egcake I don't know; but Tyler will be back in the office tomorrow if you want to give him a call at 970 462 7368 to see if he's had any discussions with other customers on it -- I'll see if I can find any information on dimensions however.
I'm going to be in Colorado in the San Juans in a few weeks doing some BOH trails in the Silverton area.. Also planning this same Rimrocker trip for next summer & I just cannot wait!!!!
We took our sweet time; and camped 1 night. If you wanted to make it into 2 nights, or do the whole thing in most of 1 day I think either would be possible if the conditions allowed.
Do these have any type of coating to prevent corrosion? If not what would you recommend for uncoated installation? Also where would you recommend rock lights be mounted assuming NV inner/outers?
Thanks for asking Matt! I left these bare with the intention of pulling them off to do a paint match later after the video was recorded. The natural aluminum look has been growing on me however, since I've got aluminum corner armor, wheels, rear bumper and a silver/clear zinc front bumper that it all kind of ties into visually. What I've used before is called Sharkhide Metal Protectant. It's a clear coat that was developed for aluminum boat hulls in marine environments, and it does a great job of preventing the white oxidation you see if you leave the aluminum completely raw/bare.
I just don't like excessive ( past 1 inch ) tire poke or after market fender flares that do not cover the tires on a Jeep......any Jeep...... They are fine on Rock Crawlers...and that's where it ends with me....... Sorry..... I even run a 37- 11.50 .......and they are perfect...
@@mattbrew11 I know.... every body's different... Have you ever made a flare that is OEM dimensions like that.....close to factory look???? Now , that I would buy....for all 3 of my Jeeps......JLs...and 1 JT... wife's doesn't count...
Everybody has different preferences, and with 50 different sets of rules in the states, sometimes it just comes down to that. We're lucky to be in Western Colorado/ Southern Utah most of the time 😅
If you fast forward to 3 minutes and 30 seconds, there is an overlay showing the factory fenders vs these front fender flares. They're about 5/8" narrower at the rear/top arch of the flare, just a touch wider at the very trailing edge (by the rock slider/front door) and about 3.5" narrower at the very leading edge where the LED is. This gives you ample coverage to the body/door (similar to factory) and also pulls the front corner in tighter to help keep the fender out of the rocks/obstacles.
The Gladiator slider design pre-dates this design; so unfortunately it's not cut for this yet. We might consider a retrofit kit however in the future for the JL/JT sliders.
Thanks for asking! It can be run without the lower skid; however that will leave the sway bar disconnect motor on Rubicon models exposed unless you're deleting it or don't have it. This was designed for 40s; but we've seen 42" treps clear it as well with 68" wide axles.
Great video I really enjoy seeing what Different builds are able to do on a trail such as this. A good friend of mine told me we're doing this trail this summer. I looked up some videos, Thinking to myself, there's no way my jeeps going to make it through there. Now I'm confident after seeing this video that it's going to be a fun summer of jeepen
Your not going on any NexT Adventure with that price im not a cheap ass I have the 2024 392 but this price for another 800 I could get a muffler that tucks in more and sounds better come on guys price this right
Some of our customers value having the factory exhaust; and this skid is less expensive than what it protects. There are probably cheaper options out there, but we were after strong light weight protection built from domestic 1/4" aluminum right here in the USA. It's not cheap. We also have quite a few customers who don't care for the factory units, and have ordered their belly skid systems for their 392s sans rear exhaust skid and are running the Magnaflow system here: www.magnaflow.com/products/19598-magnaflow-2021-2023-jeep-wrangler-street-series-cat-back-performance-exhaust-system I'm glad you found a different way forward that you like however 👍
So I had to remove the nut from the lower passenger side control arm. Couldn’t get the fad on without taking it off. Wouldn’t slide by/ not enough space. Just put the nut back on after I bolted the skid on.
@@NextVentureMotorsports ooooo yes dude! I don't want to drill holes and would love to use 3M tape like the rocker guards. I will patiently wait and order the rocker guards for now.
@@Joes432 my apologies; I assumed you meant no tail lamp holes as that's been requested a lot recently. 3M tape to apply the rocker guards is not something we have tested yet. If you really use them, you might really want them to be fastened and torqued down. We'll consider it though!
At about 5:17 you said the factory lights off the steel bumper wouldn't work. but then you proceed to say you are using your stock lights. So does it work with stock lights or not? I have factory LEDs with the plastic bumper right now on my rubicon but I ordered a set of Nacho lights with the steel mounts because I was going to upgrade the the jeep steel bumper. But rather than buy the steel bumper I was thinking of buying this aluminum one from you, but now I'm worried the nacho lights wont work. Will it work with KC g4 4" or the natch quatro? I don't really care for the piss colored amber light from baja design.
Many of the factory fogs in the steel bumper package have a different bolt pattern vs the more common 4 bolt pattern shown here that is used in all plastic bumpers and some steel bumpers from what we have seen. Your plastic bumper fogs should bolt right in, and it looks like Nacho makes an adapter bracket for the same bolt pattern we use right here: www.nachooffroadtechnology.com/products/v3jw1
Does any fluid drain out in the installation process? I’m just wondering if I should get a gasket and fluid just in case it breaks the diff seal somehow.
Thanks for asking! In my experience; if you are only pulling the bottom 6 bolts and not touching the diff cover you won't lose any fluid. The seal usually takes a bit of a tap to break free after all 12 bolts are out. Your results of course may vary!
The Rock Krawler suspension long arm kits are going to require minimal modification. The spacer between the transmission crossmember and the fuel tank/transfer case skids is removed and replaced with the RK front long arm brace. Depending on which rear suspension setup you go with, some modification with a cutoff wheel may be required on part of the fuel tank skid flange -- but it's fairly simple to mark, cutoff and clean up. We have seen a few Teraflex and EVO kits out our way and on our lift; the Teraflex kits can sometimes run into an issue of the front brace underneath the transmission interfering with the engine/trans skid however and even the TF shop rigs will just exclude that component to run skids.
I have this kit with the UHMW sitting in my garage for my Jeep JL. I order it in 2021 and haven’t got around to installing it yet…. lol I noticed my doesn’t have the plastic buttons where the hardware comes through on the gas tank skid like the video? Is something I need to be concerned about?
So just for clarity you install the UHMW and then paint the sliders? Or was the black stuff and the caps just a base to mount the UMHW to. I was trying to follow but am new to this and these look really close to what I wanted for my Bronco. I just want to make sure I understand exactly what I'm looking at here. Currently I'm running a Badlands Sasquatch with OEM sliders and looking to upgrade.
Sorry to hear it! This was one of our first videos, and the audio inside Adobe while editing it sounded quite a bit different after it was output for upload. We've learned a bit in the past year on how to do a bit better. If you've got any questions on this kit feel free to give us a call or send an email however!
I'd be interested knowing what the solution is if the engine mount nut-cert does spin. I'm just a simple home mechanic and in my experience what can go wrong will go wrong and that "what if" is holding me back.
It's a good question and we'll have to add that to the FAQs for all the JL/JT skid systems! You can use a conventional M10 hex nut and washer in place of the nut-cert in that location if it spins and is removed. It's not ideal, but luckily it's not a blind hole. The hardest part is getting the old nut-cert removed entirely if it does spin; heat and some vice grips may do the trick if you land in that situation however.
Correct. The factory fuel tank skid is completely removed and discarded. No need for the extra weight or lost clearance that would result from keeping it 🤙
Hoping y’all gain some traction with these products before I come off this lease. Well thought out stuff, hoping to see your production increase and cost decrease. This is one of the smartest approaches I’ve seen for armor.
