Hi guys, welcome to 'unplugged EV' in sunny hot Australia. I've now driven the Outlander PHEV for over 4 years and it is a great car. It has taught me well to drive efficiently. I learned a lot about battery and charging technology. Now we're in season 2 of unplugged EV with a new full electric vehicle. I guess this is natural evolution: combustion engine, plug-in hybrid, battery electric... I'm showing my experience and findings living with an electric vehicle in Australia. I will explain a lot of technical details of the battery , BMS and charging technology, so if you're interested in this kind of stuff, this is the channel. I'm not doing any reviews of products or cars or something. OK, I do reviews, so please send me stuff related to EVs. But don't send me any cars! There is private stuff in the videos as well. Dogs, horses and a cat. And my wife occasionally...
Most important, enjoy the videos as I enjoy making them for you...
Hi, what is the best practice to do cell smoothing thru the obd software. Battery need to be fully charged or discharge or mid level, Thanks in advance.
Hello. Which Mitsubishi dealership did you gontonget it serviced as i have a 2014 /15 (MY14.5) Outlander PHEV Aspire for sale that has had battery replaced under warranty with Mitsubishi in 2019 and showed 95% battery health.
In my Citroën C-Zero the drift between cells fully charged is at 0.1V. When fully empty, the drift gets up to some 0.7 volts and I don’t have a turtle on. As far as I understand the cells in the i-MiEV clones can be swapped from Yuasa Lev50 to CATL 3793 NMC without modifications on the electronics. Can you confirm this?
You have the pedal to control the rate of acceleration it's quite redundant to apply 'chill mode'. In chill mode you unnecessarily limit this rate what you could do also only with you are not flooring it. Driving in standard mode doesn't require you to always drive fast only that the potential is there, in chill mode you don't gain anything you only lose something.
Method works for me in the past and did this every 4 month. But now it’s not working anymore I did probably 10 battery reset. Now my range is only 30 km EV. But my car is from 2013 with 250.000 km 😊and still Happy with it. Average consumption is 2.8L/100km that’s healthy motor needs to run anyway weekly
Good on you for putting this video up but though it worked for me (still need to figure if it did increase the Ks for electric as it below the stats of the electric) I had to go see my mechanic to reset the errors that came up after I followed this video. Luckily my mechanic didn't charge anything to reset errors (EV System service) but it just didn't go away after the BMU reset. In fact several functions stopped working and the car just would run in lame mode. I'd suggest against this to anyone trying this. Not worth it I suppose. FYI I tried this on a Mitsu PHEV 2018 Japnese imported Outlander.
Leider nein, werd beim ersten Service aber mal mit dem Meister sprechen ob es da inzwischen Infos zu gibt und ob die bei mir den bmu reset und äh das dingsbumsladen machen können xD
Andy, you were smart to use a Victron, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger instead of one of those low cost, high frequency, transformerless inverters that everyone is selling nowadays. High frequency, transformerless inverters provide a much lower surge capacity and a shorter life expectancy than heavy duty, low frequency, transformer-based inverters. Additionally. high frequency, transformerless inverters do not provide any galvanic isolation between the DC boost stage of the inverter and its AC output which during a catastrophic failure of the inverter's control circuitry, can allow high amperage DC current to pass through to your EV's onboard charger and damage it. A high frequency inverter may be able to charge an EV short term, but it would just a matter of time before the MOSFETs or IGBTs that are used in these inverters fail and you can kiss your EV's onboard charger goodbye.
Hi I am looking for information on the quick charge or CHAdeMO. It has stopped working and I get an overvoltage error message from the CHAdeMO fast charging station.
Hi Andy, I'm a new viewer, and I am really enjoying your real world review, I have just purchased the latest Outlander PHEV. I love the car, but since it's brand new I only did city driving on electricity charging the electric motor at work. That gives me around 80km range. I am about to embark on a highway trip these holidays from Sydney to Canberra. I am willing to try the Charge mode on highway and EV in city, as per your advice and see how I go. I'm really looking forward to the results. Cheers.
Question! My PHEV came with a charging cabel, and also a cable with a brick in the middle, to convert 230V to whatever the car needs (let's call this the charge-at-home cable). Now I'm wondering, seeing as extension cables need to meet proper specifications: can I use the charging cable to extend the charge-at-home cable? And what would be the impact in terms of power loss. Thank you.
Seen some clips about this that 1 minute long and so but there it says nothing about empty batteri and wait 6hr and so on?! Just do the disconnect with cabel in?! Can this work without the 6hr disconnect thing?
i sold my 2016 outlander too and i won't buy Mitsubishi again, i'm buying a new chinese EV instead lol , no shitty BMS or ugly dashboard, luxury at half price of Mitsubishi
Thanks for your video my 12v was dead the instructions manual said to clamp to a far off metal point and I had one of those portable jump packs. Followed your advice it worked like charm :) thanks you very much
