Hey man just wanted to tell you thanks for the informative info on putting my lift together. You were rite about the instructions, they are forien in so many other languages besides English! 😂 Had a heck of a time but your video helped out installing it. Thanks again and I'll be sure to enjoy my lift also .
Ok disregard my comment on the previous video. I’m watching this video just now. I see you are covering the ICF. But I have seen people use guru or schluter membrane. It’s not exactly a final coating that you would want to look at so I think your idea is better since it’s a finish coat.
Your foundation walls need to be sealed. I’ve seen people use guru membrane or schluter membrane. Apply it with vnotch trowel and thinset then use a 10” drywall knife and push out the excess. But also it should be sealed before you backfilled. I mean that’s the requirement where I live in KY. In fact a client of mine just bought a home with that same foundation. The previous owner opted to not waterproof it and he has some water issues in the basement a decade or more later. Love your videos bro. They are entertaining but also informative. Keep em coming.
So for anyone wondering, standard 7/16" OSB like that used to make the ZIP sheathing has a permeability of about 2 perms at 50% relative humidity, so the integrated WRB coating in the ZIP sheathing having a vapor permeability of 12-16 perms is actually fairly vapor open. The tape that is part of the ZIP system is also vapor open and will cover nail penetrations at the seams. They also sell a fluid applied WRB product that is intended to cover over-driven nails in the field of the sheathing (you aren't supposed to need to use it on properly driven nails, but it won't hurt to use it on any nails not covered by the seam tape). ZIP isn't the best product for every situation, but this guy clearly didn't do proper research about it before making this video. Also, what are these other products that are supposed to be better for double wall construction because you never mentioned them!? You tell people they shouldn't use something, but then don't offer an actual alternative that would be better, nor explain why it would be better. You make some valid points, but get completely lost in misunderstandings and poor research with no real explanation of why ZIP is bad for a double wall construction or why something else is better. This video was such a frustrating waste of time, especially when you seem to have done enough research to have found a better alternative but then don't share it.
Im not sure that you need zip system and mento 3000 together? I’d think it similar of putting two layers of visqueen in the crawl where moisture could get in between layers? Just saying…
Nice work keep it up...I've been putting up tongue and groove siding for a very long time. I don't face nail, unless it is your starter course or somewhere in a corner but I guess if you don't mind spending hours filling holes have fun.
I seem to have watched about 50 videos on acrylic stucco on ICF, truly you're the first video and the last video I'm gonna be watching that actually did a decent job explaining everything. I certainly appreciate it. Thank you so much.
Wish you’d have show the disassembly a little better. My middle case has a hole in it and am trying to decided if it can be removed without roving the entire thing from the truck. I think I can. But them back screws are going to suck.
Hey! Are you still using the PB105!? Would love for you to make another video of you using it now. I moved into house 3 years ago and have watched all your videos about the boiler. I have one myself and I love it. Having to replace the flame guide and insulator this year
Foam I get it, but R7 per inch is tough to pass up. PET recycled (cf Calif) bottles make dandy polyurethane, might be a market opportunity there for us right-thinking builders.
Built a larsen truss style house before. Was, in my opinion so much extra work for no benefit. I mean you are trying for a 50 plus r value. On the outside, yeah no wonder there is going to be moisture on the outside!! And don’t even get me started on what the mice/squirrels will do to your insulation. Such a waste of time building it this way. If you want good r value. Use 2x6 or 2x8 framing with close cell spray foam. And before you say “thermal bridging!!! just keep in mind every window and door, and deck ledger is a massive thermal bridge! We aren’t building homes that need to survive the antarctic winters. Cant stand when people re-invent the wheel. Larry haun is turning in his grave!
Don't look to this video for serious advice. There are several ways to make an incredible Passive House quality house without Zip products, but if you install it properly, Zip sheathing products can work very well, including on double wall assemblies. This video includes facts and incorrect rants - which makes some viewers believe all of it and some viewers believe none of it. - Stewart Gohringer, Architect, Certified Passive House Consultant
Weird. Interesting framing on that exterior wall. At first I thought it was balloon framing, but then realized it's just missing a cap plate over the top plate. No headers over windows and doorways. No fire-blocking between floors. No rim joists. This makes me think the outside wall is just to create a thermal barrier. And the interior walls are structural and carry the load.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thanks for posting this install. I’m just in the process of putting mine back on and needed a couple reminders. I recently went through the process of installing a new impeller, drive chain and lower drive sprocket. I have a large gravel driveway and parking lot with two entrances to our town maintained back road. The town snowplow occasionally leaves me some fist size rocks in the snow berm they create in front of the driveways. This year I am going to mount a rear blade on my bx2360 to deal with that issue so I can get more mileage out of my impeller. ( I hope )
Control the vapor with proper humidity control inside, that’s the best, easiest way to do that in a tight well insulated house, control the exterior penetrations. This has been studied and tested. Unventilated attics work just fine without inviting unconditioned air into the envelope
If the Styrofoam at grade and above grade isn't protected and crumbles away due to mowing, weather etc. how bad are the consequences when just above the ground? Can this be cosmetic only?
