Any professionals doing reviews on these? Seems like a bunch of amateurs. If you're welding mild steal with a 1/8 rod, turn the machine up to at least 115 for penetration. Ground the piece correctly also. Hold it on the metal makes no sense.
The machine doesn't even go up that high! I actually posted about this in the video. It does not put out what is claimed, and I measured it with an ammeter. The most it puts out on 240V is ~112A. on 120V input its around 92A or so. So yea professionals are not interested in junk toys like this.🤣
How did you remove it with the main lines going through it? Unless there’s a way I can’t figure out how to remove the main gun line to actually take the old motor out
No really a fair test of a backup tiny welder. Not designed for 1/8 rod man. Not to mention you don't have a good ground/work lead set up. Given the way you tested it I think it's great. I run a Miller Mutimatic 215 and a Thermal Arc 185 AC/DC for TIG. So I'm not a cheap card. When I'm running over to a friend to help them out with something, I always bring this little machine. Operate it as you should a MINI welder and it does just fine..
Yea that's the problem that I demonstrated in the video. It simply doesn't put out what the dial says. 95A on the display is likely around 60-70A actual real-world current. With 120V input mine barely put out 94-95A, and it tripped a 20A breaker, so it was likely pulling around 25A from the outlet. So not totally useless, but if someone doesn't know these actual specifics I can definitely see how it could be seen as troublesome. I don't even use mine, it's just collecting dust, I should sell it, lol.
What do you recommend on mild steel 1/4 thick I ordered the same welder from Amazon it says it’s 110v I haven’t gotten it yet I did order 3/32 7018 rod what would you recommend thx
@@craigmarshall40 a 3/32" 7018 will weld up to about 3/16". It will weld 1/4" but there will be very little penetration; youd have to do a lot of time-wasting prep work to bevel edges and what not.
If it's mild steel its possible, but not aluminum. Even then if it were mild steel, its definitely not a project for a beginner, as small round tubing is some of the hardest to weld.
Hmm, I see that the Amazon listing sure enough only shows "110V" on the unit. BUT, I would be willing to bet it's the same exact machine and they just don't include the short pigtail adapter cord for the 6-50R plug. Why on earth would they re-engineer an already existing design just to remove the 220V capability? I'm willing to bet they did not. 😁
i do not understand why people still buy these , when you can get get flux core welder , cost not much more but 100 times better and can stick weld too.
I have seen videos of same cheap machine running all different rods and they started lower than 100 and it ran great. I love my Lincoln, but I'll buy one of these for portability
Your sticks were too big for this baby welder. Using small sticks of 6011 or 7018 mine purrs like a kitten and runs great. I have a good Miller Multimatic MIG machine and a powerful Thermal Arc 200A AC/DC TIG/Stick machine. So why the heck would I buy the Toulon 135A (TL 135S LT) for $100+?? Often friends or neighbors need something done/fixed and this little bad boy can be thrown in my car or truck EASILY to help them out. My other expensive machines, not so much. 110V or 220V. Lift TIG if it's something smallish and you have a small argon bottle. Mostly tho small 3/32 at 90-100A really does the trick. Yes better on 220V but OK at 110V. Not results you'd expect from better equipment. But let's remember, this thing cost about $100 bucks. Including a cheap TIG torch and everything you need but 3/32 sticks/electrodes. I don't know how they can sell this for $100. Last quality TIG torch I bought cost about $300 with a good high quality flex line. You really can't beat this for the money.
Now a days this stick welder just collects dust. My go-to stick welder is the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV. It's a wayyyy better machine and is very sturdy & robust for the cost. Real-world duty cycle is great too.
You can even tack your work to the bench that has a solid ground attached You will get much better results Also a bad ground will create higher temperatures in your welder and possibly causing it to burn out
Try actually grounding your work By either clamping the ground directly to your work or clamping down your work to your bench Poor grounding will make any welding look bad A bad ground is even more dramatic when using a plasma torch If you want any tool to work you have to complete the circuit
So the biggest thing ive seen in common with all of these sub $80 weldwrs is poor grounding being the cause of it not performing consistently. I think when i get mine the first thing im gonna do is trim the ground and improve the connection to the clamp. Clamping dire tly to the piece seems loke it would work better than through the table with these shoebox welders too.
In a way I agree, but it also has to do with these using cheap aluminum cables instead of OFC. I would wager that replacing the stock cables with some 6awg welding/battery cable and a good quality stinger/work clamp it would be at least a 10 "percent" improvement. Heck I bet if you wired the 6awg cables directly to the outputs on the boards (bypassing the weird Dinse connectors they used), I bet it would be even better than just cables/stinger/clamp alone. Then again it all just depends how much money you want to throw at a $69 welder. At this point, all of these points are moot as mine just collects dust since I have many high end professional welders from HTP/Stel. My go-to stick welder is the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV.
Im hoping to get thus exact welder for some light work mostly exhaust welding and ive got to weld a little on an old cbr 600 frame (was cut off above the back tire where passenger would sit, cuz it was turned into a stunt bike before i got it.) And i also want to build a small jack press. I think it would do perfectly for what i need. I cant beleive you can get a welder this cheap that works!
This is how to do a 'comparison' of helmets... Just wished you would get close enough to see the weld bead in detail... I have the Viking 3350 and it doesn't look so dark as here and I also have the vegaview 2.5 and except for the 'color', they're pretty close. I'm just not sure if buying the Clear 2.0 would make a difference but so far, I've looked wide and far and no one has posted any Optrel clear welding demos, not even the company..!! They know how to make good helmets but their advertising sucks big time... and Fronius too.
This was just experimenting with 0.045" gas-shielded flux core, which the machine is not meant for. The PP200 MTS runs 0.035" just fine...use the synergic program in the machine and it runs just fine. For 0.045", you'd really need the PP300.
I bought the papr version of the panoramaxx clt in north america... they sent it with the isofit headgear so the face seal does not work at all. Apparently the us and canada send it with isofit whereas europe ships it with the proper headgear that works with the face seal. Already dissapointed with optrel after having spent about 3k and i cant use my papr day 1.
Smooth grooving, hell yeah bought this the second after watching - Playing with sparklers looks fun son to add metal to metal full throttle is the motto
Great video, and would be even better if you got a microphone so that interested people like myself didn't have to constantly rewinding to make sure that I heard properly.
Interesting. Tough to compare with the different lighting and arc locations, but the Lincoln 4C looked great and the Crystal 2.0 did too. Would have loved to see a closer view of the arc on the same location with the same lighting from each, but this was still great to see. Thanks.
Just bought a lightly used Crystal 2.0 (Has not arrived yet). I use an Optrel 680, which I like, but I'm hoping the 2.0 is going to be a big step up in visibility. Based on the views in this vid it looks like a big difference from the others.
So long as its a dedicated circuit only for the welder, then you can run about 70A of welding current without fear of tripping a 15A breaker. That is plenty for 5/64" E6013's and you can even run 3/32" E6011's which will weld much thicker than 1/8" steel even with just 70A. Its just that much more of an aggressive arc.
@@jasongodin7165 Yes, but ONLY E6011s; you can run them from around 40-90A, so about 65 to 70 amps is the sweet spot IMO. Other rods in 3/32" (such as 6013s or 7018s) need many more amps than your 120V/15A circuit can supply and you'd trip the breaker trying to satisfactorily run other rods that need a good 80+ amps to run well. On this machine that does not show the true amperage on the digital display you'd need to set it to about 90A on the display to get a true 70A at the welding arc. Takes some getting used to but then again that's why it costs $70 shipped, lol. If you want a real stick welder that is still entry level pricing, look at the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV. it is $599 but it is a workhorse. You can even run good quality E6010s such as Lincoln or Hobart. You can use my discount code: HTPSouthTexas to get 5% off if you order it online.
@@zod-engineering-welding thanks for the help , I only need it to fix 1/8 metal , i built sand racers with 120v welder with 5/64 rods, perfect for 1/8 steel , brother inlaw kept asking me to sell it , its not a tool i use alot but good to have one and its small, my other welder was 130 amps but maybe only pullling 80
Probably one of the best pieces of equipment in the industry. My buddy Dan moved his entire shop to HTP after buying his first machine. I have yet too find a single qualified welder that has anything bad to say about these welders. ((((CONSPIRACY THEORY....)))) = OTC Daihen tig welders are made for them by STEL (HTP)????
I almost stopped watching during the unpacking when he refused to set down that wildly flailing knife. 😂 He's obviously a better welder than I am but yeah, his strikes were making my left eye twitch.
It would be quite difficult without previous experience welding similar sized parts. So it's more of a question of operator skill than machine capability.
@@caseybengtson940 Yes. I have stick welded fender washers, the thin ones that were about 0.055"-0.060" thick, less than half the thickness of a 1/8" rod. Just takes a lot of practice. And don't expect your 1/8" rods to stay straight though. The heat from stick welding them will warp them to the point you won't be able to tell they were once straight rods, Unless the entire length is completely restrained down, which is highly unlikely.
What kind of space ship did they get this new technology on. This little welder is gonna be what commercial size shops will be using eventually. Imagine the convenience
My friend has the wire fed version of this their top model which he paid less than $180 for 2 years ago. We both build pressure vessels for a living. These toolium welders are a diamond in the dirt. Work like a champ. If it breaks down buy another and than ul have parts. Totally worth it ten fold
None of that matters on a POS like this, LOL. I have real stick welders (lots of them) I can rely on. This is a "throw away" if anything ever happens to it. :)
Have a look at my review that I left on Amazon about the amperage. I documented what I measured with an ammeter. This way you don't go crazy when you have lots of trouble running rods; you'll already know to set it much much higher.
I have the TL-200M and it is awesome! I run it on 240 with a 30 Amp circuit. It will burn 5/32 hard facing rods and the duty cycle is insane. I used it to hard surface a harbor freight anvil and blasted through about 2.5 lbs of rods back to back on 155A without popping the breaker or any other issues. It works very well as a MIG and lift TIG as well. This company makes some incredible little welders, especially for the price.
