Homestead Roofing, Inc, is a roofing contractor in Colorado Springs, Colorado, servicing clients in El Paso, Teller, and Elbert counties in Colorado.
We publish weekly videos to provide homeowners, realtors, and property managers with a ton of information on the roofing process, roof repairs, and the insurance claim process.
Our videos are released as "Wednesday Walks In The Park," where we answer common, and not-so-common questions that many people have, and our "Tuesday Tips" videos where we provide important information about avoiding scams, understanding roofing, and making sense of insurance claims. We also produce occasional Scam Alerts and Storm Alert videos.
You can find the website for Colorado Springs roofing contractor, Homestead Roofing, at homesteadroofingcolorado.com
You can contact us by phone at 719-433-6991 or by Email at info@homesteadroofingcolorado.com
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Hi, we need a new roof now and currently got estimates and deciding whether we will go with landmark pro or northgate climate flex. 15k vs 17k. The main difference is the class 3 vs class 4 impact rating also their durability that 4 will last 40-50 yrs compared to class 3. However, our roofer told us personally he would chose landmark pro because of their durability and quality. The only thing holding him back from getting class 4 is he said insurance companies are trying to recommend people to get class 4 shingles that way if a storm or hail happens in the area after few years, they won't be cover roof replacement because the owner has class 4, he mentioned something about cosmetics that I forgot. I did some research about it and some roofers and ithose who are in insurance also said that's the future of insurance wherein they wont replace roof anymore so they want people to get class 4. But yeah, after days of researching, we ended up deciding if we'll go with northgate vs landmark pro? Can you help is on this one? We live in Michigan, by the way. And planning to keep the house for 30 plus more yrs. Don't get that much hail in our area but still, want a longer durable strong roof to last us 30 yrs. Paying $740 a year for home insurance.
Contractors would love homeowners to believe you are paying them the deductible but that's usually not the case. Most homeowner insurance policies enable the homeowner to be paid directly from the insurance company and have complete control in choosing a contractor, not doing any work at all or even doing the roof yourself. What's he's actually saying is that once a homeowner signs an agreement with a contractor to work with your insurance company, the homeowner loses control. He's right on that point.
Steps for Repairing Roof Shingles Using a Brad Nailer and Granules: Prepare the Area: Clean the Surface: Ensure the area around the damaged shingles is clean and dry. Remove any debris or loose granules. Secure Curling or Buckling Shingles: Use a Brad Nailer: Carefully use a brad nailer to pin down the curling or buckling shingles. Place the nails where they will hold the shingles flat without causing additional damage. Be cautious not to penetrate too deeply. Check for Level: Ensure the shingles are as flat as possible before moving on to the next step. Patch the Area: Apply Roofing Patch: Use a roofing patch or sealant to cover the nail heads and any gaps around the shingles. This helps to seal the area and prevent water infiltration. Henry’s Roof Patch or similar products work well for this purpose. Smooth the Patch: Spread and smooth the patching material over the nails and surrounding area to ensure it is well-sealed. Apply Custom Granules: Prepare Granules: Crush ceramic tiles to match the existing granules in color and texture. Sift the granules to ensure they are uniform in size. Sprinkle Granules: While the patching material is still wet, sprinkle the custom granules over the patched area. Ensure an even coverage. Press Granules: Gently press the granules into the wet patch to ensure they adhere well. You can use a flat tool or even the back of a trowel to press them in. Cure the Repair: Allow to Dry: Let the patch and granules cure according to the adhesive manufacturer's instructions. This typically involves a period of drying or curing time to ensure the repair is solid and effective. Material Costs: Brad Nailer: $50 - $100 (if you don’t already have one) Brad Nails: $10 - $20 (for a box of nails) Roofing Patch (Henry’s Roof Patch or similar): $10 - $20 per gallon Ceramic Tiles: $2 - $10 each Granule Preparation Tools: (grinder, sieve) $30 - $100 Benefits of This Method: Secure and Long-Lasting: The combination of nailing down the shingles and using a patch with granules creates a strong and durable repair. Exact Color Match: By using custom granules made from matching ceramic tiles, you ensure the repair blends well with the existing roof. Weather Protection: The roofing patch seals the area effectively, preventing water from getting underneath the shingles. This approach allows you to address the specific issues of curling and buckling while also ensuring the repair matches the existing roof's appearance.
by the way I came up with this using chat gpt's help and my creativity in problem solving. I don't know if ANYBODY has ever attempted this so I will be the first and post a video on it and how long it lasted followup videos on my diy channel.
i have an idea to apply fresh asphalt to bald patches of missing granules of shingles and then sprinkle roofing granules onto this wet asphalt and gently tap it in to secure them and then let it cure and you have a brand new repaired shingle rather than replacement. I am thinking you can extend the life of your shingles indefinitely this way. You can even gather grit from gutters to do the color match replacing
Tell me you don’t know shit about insurance without telling me. That’s not at all how insurance claims work and you of all people should know that. They legally cannot raise your rates based on a claim. However, if you bring to their attention that there is potential for an act of God and/or occurrence that would possibly damage your home then yes. But if you are a homeowner who cares for their home properly and gets annual inspections and you should have nothing to worry about to begin with.
Thank you for your thoughtful and gracious comment. In response, I would say that it is you that doesn't know what you're talking about. The more claims you have on your record, the more of a risk you are to an insurance company. The more risk you are to an insurance company, the higher your rates will be. It doesn't take a genius to figure that one out. As to your comment about having "nothing to worry about..." try explaining that to the homeowners in Colorado, Texas, Oklahoma, Florida and several other states who have had their insurance rates double and triple in just a few years.
Great video. Yes, I would love the pdf with the questions to ask a roofer. Also, I have yet to see you address this question: I have a 25-year-old roof with standard asphalt shingles (one layer only). Some people tell me to remove it down to the decking and put up SPS shingles; some say to add a 2nd layer, but some say you can only put std. shingles on the 2nd layer, not SPS ones! Some say SPS shingles are fine on a 2nd layer. Yikes! How do I know which advice to take?
Your blaming claims but the real problem is the reinsurance. That is when the prices really began to escalate. That is bogus to blame claimants when that is a small part of it. That is a huge misconception you pay for years without claiming and the greedy insurance companies want to put all the blame on the claimants. How about when the plywood underneath is all wet good enough reason. How about our legislators start putting some restrictions on the trillion dollar insurance business instead of being in there back pocket. Please don't keep blaming claimants in reality that is a small part of it but the greedy corporations want you to think otherwise. Biggest business and biggest shame in the world. 😢😢
Hi, yes please, I would like a PDF of the info in your terrific video! Thank you SO much for your invaluable knowledge! I came across your video about what not to tell a roofer AFTER I had answered most of those questions to 3 companies! I'm starting over, thanks to you!
Tracy, thank you for your videos explaining so much information regarding roofing. I'm from CT, My question is how long should the insurance company take to process my claim? As of today it has been about 6 weeks and I have not gotten any answer where's approved or denied. This claim is my very first sound being in my home over 20 years. I don't want to be petty in fear of losing.
yep, Here in 2024 I'm paying $11,200 USD for a 20 square job, OC Duration shingles, Simple roof with one chimney, Replace 2 bath vents and 1 kitchen vent. The job includes Owens Corning Preferred Protection plan ( others charged extra for this) which requires 4 OC components and the ($200) admin fee for town permits. I had the option to do this myself but will be traveling during this time. I found this job to be $2500 more from 2019 when I first considered replacing the roof. I lost this gamble. ;) NOTE: In 2019, I could of had another layer of shingles (GAF architectural) installed for $6500 and been done with this.
I have a rental home with an old roof (it was old when I purchased the house 25 years ago) -- finally hoping to replace it, and fielding quotes from several roofing contractors. One of the reps said there's obvious wind-damage (there was no single wind-event, just wear & tear over the years -- tabs have come off & I've repaired many of them myself ) -- he showed how easily the bottoms of the tabs could be lifted, etc. ... He recommended filing a claim with my insurance company & that when the adjuster come to inspect, the roofing rep would meet with him -- but that I should not -- and the roofing rep felt confident that he could get me "a free roof" -- that he's done this many times in the past. The rep said my rates might increase, but that in a year I could shop for a new carrier (fyi - the insurance company covers not only the rental, by my primary residence, plus vehicle and artisan-insurance for my business, for which I've never had to file any claims in the past)... The company's bid has so far been the highest, but only slightly -- they are a small "family company", were recommended by a friend, and by chance I met the owner and liked and respected him. My question is, does this tactic sound like it can fly? Thanks for any thoughts!!
This guy's just looking to be scammed so he sees it where it's not at. Yeah the company wasn't well put together but nothing sounds out of the ordinary.
Just an FYI this guy has ACV vs RCV mixed up. Actual Cash Value means you get the actual cash value in the first check then the depreciation in the second check when work is completed. Most carriers have a $ limit when it switches from RCV to ACV
We just got a re-roof in Florida...sorry to report all that came were deficit in their knowledge of ventilation...all of them.... Here we have the 150 NFA rule too. Watch out these guys are clyelless
Hi. I am getting a loan from the Pennsylvania Housing Finance Agency. They have required me to get two estimates for them. The first contractor came out and he did his inspection and left us a Roofing Agreement. He signed it. A little later that day, his company called back and said that we needed to sign it. I questioned why I needed to sign it as it was only an agreement. The person I talked to said it was because we had applied for financing through a company that the roofer uses. BUT, I have to get another estimate. What happens if the second contractor offers us a lower bid for the same amount of work? If I sign the first agreement, doesn't that mean that I am locked into a contract with the first contractor? I have some concerns and I had asked the first contractor to to call me so I could have my concerns answered. To date, he has not returned my call. Well, I did sign the contract and emailed it to the company. But then last night I rescinded it. Only, until I have my concerns addressed to my satisfaction. Besides that, I have not received the other contractor estimate yet. The first company knew that we had to get another estimate so I was wondering why they were in such a rush to get my signature. Can you adise where I go with this? Thank you.
Thank you for the info. I'm going through this right now. My insurance check is way over the amount to repair my roof and the contractor wants me to sign over the check. I have not, thank goodness
What do you think of the Bullet Boot? The roofers here in St. Louis think this it is the cat's meow and look at us like we have two heads when we mention THE ULTIMATE PIPE BOOT, which I've researched, and it's awesome, and I hope the roofer we choose will order it. I've noticed that in order to use it on our lead and cast iron pipes, you have to use an EASY SLEEVE with it, right? One roofer we are having give us a proposal and estimate insisted it could only be used on PVC, but my research proved him wrong, since it can be used on our pipes with the Easy Sleeve. Haven't told him that yet as we have not picked a roofer yet. We're holding out on a proposal from one more roofer who has the Select Master qualifications from CertainTeed.
So we live in Wesley Chapel Florida an hour north of Tampa, house was built in 2004 and code is r 30 insulation. Since it’s been 20 years we are thinking of adding more and getting it to r-49. What do you guys think?
Disagree. There may be no reason to rip the shingles off. Should be able to check for damage by looking in the attic or simply walking on the roof. Common sense.
I disagree. You may find what appear to be soft spots by walking the roof, but it's actually 3/8" plywood decking with h-clips. That will have give. You won't know by walking the roof. There may be a few reasons why there's no access into the attic.
From your background, it looks like you are somewhere in the Southwest USA. I'm in northern Ohio. Up until about 10 years ago, I had never seen a woven valley. Every house I'd seen used the W metal valley and in the houses I've owned they have never been a problem. And the house we currently own the shingles are so old that they're beginning to crumble, 40 to 50 years old. But, the W metal valleys have no problem whatsoever. All of the bids for replacing the roof that we've got so far specify 6 foot wide ice guard membrane in the valleys with the W metal valley.
Great info. But I have to say. From my understanding if homeowners dont take care of hail damage within a year or two the insurance wont cover it because of neglect. And then the homeowner has to pay out of pocket for a full replacement or repair. Also insurance companies use preferred contractors which will more likely get your claim denied because insurance companies prefer to not pay out. Just personal experience
Did you see the short video that some guy has about an F wave roof that he claims his delaminating? To me a delamination is when the actual tab itself is separating and layers from the top down to the backside of the shingle that to me is delamination.anyway let me know if you see it. Thank you.
