I've been painting for 20+ years, but there's still so much to learn and try. So this channel is dedicated to my miniatures painting adventure. From trying weird painting challenges, finding colour schemes from strange sources, and even teaching some of the things I know. I'm always looking to try new things: New paints, new techniques, new challenges, new tools. So feel free to give me ideas for something you'd like to see me do in a comment for any of my videos.
I mostly paint 3D printed miniatures from some popular sources like One Page Rules, Artisans Guild, and Titan Forge.
So I just primed my new CSM army and realized after the fact that there’s some minis that didn’t get coated entirely. I didn’t do a very good job of hitting all the angles from underneath. Since I used army painter Matt black and I’m doing Black Legion can I just hit all the areas I missed with something like citadel Abaddon Black? I’m not concerned with the blacks being a match, only trying to avoid going out to buy another rattle can and have to spray again cause it’s so hard to get the right temp and humidity where I’m at.
If your only concern is making sure you get those gaps filled with some paint so they don't show through, abbadon black should be just fine, just keep it thin and apply it like a wash so it gets into the cracks. Finish is way more important for flat surfaces than it is deep crevices so it shouldn't mess with your panting surface, and double spraying to get bits missed is a risk that you end up with thick paint so best to just get the area missed by brush anyway.
How does this not have more views and likes? Excellent vid, and the wet blending technique where you put down medium before the wash is very clever - I will need to try this on some of my genestealer cult hybrids.
I have been looking for pp who are using artist paints for models or mini, ty for your video. Would you recommend heavy or soft for base coat ( not spray), im also using oil for parts.
Soft body for basecoats if you have access to both as you don't want to thin to much and lose all that opacity. A properly applied soft body basecoat, even without thining, should tighten around the details and not lose any details.
"Brush on Primer hasn't been shown in any detail." God, don't I know it. I love using a brush but it feels like priming is never discussed, and people just scoff at it. Basically all Brush discussion on gunpla and model kits have been tossed aside, and only a few use it on minatures.
Hate to bug ya again, but if you had to pick out some premade colors - Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel, etc - to recreate the fur with, what would you go for? I'm having a really hard time mixing up/picking out good colors!
Honestly the hardest parts for me are - 1: keeping the paint from drying out on really small brushes, and 2: trying to figure out what paints I should use for Jackals' fur! Any suggestions there?
I am so glad to see another painter using acrylic gouache. I have been using them for two years now. Love what they do. And pretty versatile especially when used with mediums.
They do definitely need to be used with mediums, and take some getting used to when it comes to thinning them out, but the rewards is you can have a much smaller collection of paint that you can do a whole lot with.
I print on a Mars 3 with polyjuice water washable resin. However since this video that resin is no longer available so had to change to different brand of waterwashable resin. Now I get it from a place called Spool 3D and it's their in house brand.
The lid doesn't have a gasket so you wouldn't want lots of water in there if you're transporting it around from location to location. If you just mean "can you paint with it at an angle" I don't think the paint would start to run until it was watery so a slight angle should be fine, but most all wet pallets should be used flat.
Just found your videos and have been really enjoying them! Love all the OPR features as well. Prepainting bases before gluing the models on always made me nervous. Do you find that the superglue binds the mini to the base decently, even with paint on the resin? It might be better than my current process of scratching some hashmarks into the two surfaces I am gluing together and hoping for the best. Resin tends not to glue well. Also, I tend to overuse glue. I am scared that the dried glue might mess up my painting.
I think for me it really depends on the model, if the joints in the ankles are weak, I kind of would rather it break off the base than at the ankles should it take a tumble x_x But for most I will do the hashtag scoring as well under the feet and on the base, usually I'll do it with models with bigger feet since most of it gets hidden away under them. For glue I use a gorilla glue gel, which is a little easier to control the amount, but also because it goes on in a glob and does not spread until you press it down, usually it'll get right into the hashtag and not spread any further and can deal with things where there's a bit more of a gap between foot and base thanks to some of the details. As the glue dries it can become a bit frosty around the feet from the vapors which might cover the painting a bit, but if you hit it with varnish again after it can help get rid of some of that effect.
I belive for this video I used liquitex heavy body acrylic. Though now a days I'm using Jo Sonja tube colours, more matte and a little thinner while still having single pigment colours available.
I love contrast paint and I'm happy that these paint finally exist after 30 or what years. However watching your video I realized two thing 1: your ink method looks much more smooth and steady and 2: contrast are a solution to a very specific GameWorkshop problem, wanting to sell minis and heaving massive armies you need to paint before you can enjoy your games. In any other branch of painting miniatures something like "slap chop" + contrast wouldn't be such a help as with massive scale miniature wagrames like with 40K
After struggling for ages, a hygrometer 3 different palettes, I followed your advice and the dspiae palette sorted it. I note all their products are next level. The single sided nippers are noteworthy too as are the glass files. Best products on the market by some margin.
I feel like it's just the texture and finish that are important for a brush on primer. So after the first coat I'd probably start working on some base colours. Maybe mixing some primer into them even, just to get a head start on those base layers instead of worrying about doing more coats of the same. Save the details with less coats that way too.
I was able to get one in a shop in my province, but I think their official store is on Ali Express here: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004717211291.html?channel=twinner
Just found this video (looking for the vid on coming up with a paint scheme to share with a friend - your reco to look at pro sports teams was genius Where did you get the pullover?
This was the website I got it from: www.lightinthebox.com/ not sure if it's still there, but make sure you're looking for pictures in the reviews, cause what they had and what I saw in a review were different but still what I was looking for.
This is such a cool video. I have the RGG Wet Palette v2, and while it is really good, my studio tends to need the AC on since it can get pretty hot, which leads to my wet palette drying out pretty quickly. I'll see if I can find this one and try it out!
Can you tell me if the paper size from the old is compatible with the new version? They also have an "infiltration" paper, any idea on the difference there?
So every thing about the surface is the same. So the same guiding paper and same surface on the palette paper. It's just the shape that changes the pro palette is cut a little bigger is all so you can definitely use the smaller ones on the sponge still with no problem and that's what I plan to do with the the bunch I still have left.
Dollar tree activity tray in the school section. 1.25 Sponge cloth 2 pack 3.00 Parchment paper 3.00 a roll. This design works as good as a pro set up but for a quarter the price. I would not ever buy a wet pallet. But mine doesn't have a lid or anything so no storing paint for long and I have to clean it after every painting session. Also the fancy paper is a bit more resilient
Not always. In this case it does say on the bottle it can be used as a varnish or medium, but a proper polyurethane matte varnish would not be able to be used the same way.
I like green stuff world. Pretty large bottle for pretty cheap, but shipping might be an issue so better to get when getting a bunch of other stuff too.
Ya that would be my desk top humidifier. It really depends on your atmospheric humidity. Where I am it's really dry like 18% indoor humidity, the best for panting is around 36%, so the vapor is likely to rlevaporate as fast as I can make it. If you already live somewhere where humidity is 36% or more then there's just no need for a humidifier.
I had problems with Vallejo brush-on primers (weird long drying, smell staying with the miniature for a week and more, looking a bit weirdly and rubbery - as if it would come off if I scratch it with my nail), and priming is still my biggest obstacle and problem in the hobby (where I live, it snows for half a year at best, and it is an urban area with not a lot of appropriate space for rattle-cans). So I focuse more on building and converting, but the lack of painting makes me sad... As you can guess, anxiety plays a big role in the whole thing. I get it now that it is better to paint with thin layers of primer, but how to tell if the bottle is bad or expired? All of mine are still with me, but they've been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years now, and a couple of them have separated considerably.
Paint doesn't usually degrade with time, just dry out. Separating in the bottle is also normal it just means that it needs to be shaken or stirred much longer before using. As for if it's bad or not, that usually can be pretty apparent right when you get it, most of those samenproblems you were having will still be around I think though the paint won't have changed. Though sometimes just a thorough stirring is what it needs. I have had trouble with Vallejo brush on primers in the past too so it might just be the brand in this case, but there are lots of strong ones out there. Greenstuff worlds, scale 75s, AK interactive, I've tried all those and they work well.
