Hey everybody! In my background iv worked in construction as a commercial plumber and electrician, I'm also a mechanic and a motorcycle enthusiast. I might have some aquarium sump filter builds in the future. Hope yall enjoy my videos!
If something went wrong or i wanted to change something i would just cut it in... and what do i need valves for? Tell me exactly where a valve or union would go? The pump has a union.
Are you asking me if the suspension needs changes for the 5.0 swap? Or if i have made any changes? You do not need to make any suspension changes JUST for the 5.0 swap. But me personally. I installed the complete 5.0 explorer suspension in the rear. 8.8 rear end, sway bars, upper torque arms, relocated the passenger rear shock to the back of axle and installed the pinion shock. Iv also upgraded to poly bushings for everything and used straight rear-end links instead of explorer curved ones. And i install street performance front shocks and 2" DJM lowering springs. Soon will install DJM upper snd lower control arms (which themselves give a 2" drop)
@@SBS_Auto you answered my question like a beaut I've never seen a 5.0 explorer in real life. Last 5.0 I saw was in a 94 mustang. Early 90s explorer was a real gem. Highly underrated if you ask me. Only problem is I live in a rust belt. So they're all gone here 🥲
@SH-gr1bc well, the explorer 8.8 rearend swap lowers the rear roughly 4" because it's axle over leaf, where the ranger is leaf over axle. Then you add 2" lift shackles to bring it slightly back up. But this leaves the rear a bit lower still, so hence the 2" front lowering springs to even it out. And when i get the 5.0 sitting in, it will be slightly lower
@@SBS_Auto probably could have put the leafs on top to make it higher. That's an old school trick. Guys usually put their springs under the axle when they want to lower their trucks. I've seen it with all kinds of trucks. But you did it the best way. I know you did some work to the motor. How much Horsepower does it have now?
You’re truly doing gods work for me right now. I’m in the beginnings of swapping my 2000 ford ranger Xlt 4.0 manual with a 302. I have no idea what I’m doing so I’m basically going to copy you. So thanks lol
@SH-gr1bc not for the 98-2000. But for the longtube headers i used on my 97 i had to take a tiny sliver out of the inner passenger frame rail, nothing substantial though. Easy install really. Plug and play mostly
I see you are using black silicone. Is there a reason or just preference? Why not clear? Not knocking you or your process, just wondering if there is a reason for black instead of clear...... I just purchased a 125 with stand in great condition for $50, tank leaks somewhere and I am about to reseal it completely for my own peace of mind. Thanks for the video, I've had plenty of jobs and projects working with various types of caulk, silicone, rtv, sikaflex, etc. so I am confident this will be an easy job. Especially after watching your vid. Cheers bro!
Pitt mixes are absolute lovers. Had to put my 15 year old Pitt down last June and it was devastating. Sought to adopt a Pitt shelter pup… DNA results just came in and he is also a dobi-pit mix. He’s currently an absolute terror but so intelligent and sweet! Your pup is gorgeous and a total love bug!
Im sorry for your loss, we lost our blue pits last year. Clash, my dobi-pit was also a terror as a pup but came around quick and is absolutely the most intelligent dog ever ❤️
@@SBS_Auto thank you ❤️ I’ve been seeking input from other Pitman owners since finding out and there’s not much to be found. I appreciate your content!
@ManuelCastillo-rk5ur no, if u took the extra bulbs out, it would flash fast, which is why you would need the led relay. Idk why yours isnt flashing fast if u took your extra ones out 🤷🏾♂️
I'm currently doing this swap myself, engine from a 99 explore into a 99 ranger, love that you're cleaning and looking this engine over. Many people wouldnt take time to do that
I did the same stuff to the 5.0 in my 97 ranger, but i didnt make videos of the engine cleaning and building process because i thought people would think it was super cringy 😅
Out in Oklahoma how about you? I really liked your work and how well you took your time to keep things level and straight. I tried plumbing my tank with never plumbing anything before and was doing good but my cuts weren’t straight and deburred so it ended up being off.
Would appreciate your help for sure. After messing up I’m currently working on getting those pipes and fittings again. What did you use to get straight square cuts I used the Lenox ratchet and it works just not exactly square. I also needed to deburr the pipe so it can fit to the fitting better. Any way I can get your number or better way to contact you?
@Mark43613 use quality fittings from home depot, the fittings from lowes suck badly. U shouldnt have to deburr any pipe after a cut. I use different brands of cutters. u just have to practice a bunch to get the correct cutting technique. If youre cutting with a sawzall, i just use my rough manly fingers to deburr the pipe.
It blows my mind how easy people make it seem on RU-vid. I've been doin my swap for over a year now. Props man .. goes to show how truly dedicated you are at what you do.
I have a 02 ranger edge with a 302 and t5 with a external slave the master cylinder I believe is going out I haven’t been able to get it out yet but what all mods do I need to get the 550 cylinder in I don’t have a nss do I need to trim down the collar on the master to get it in big help so far
For a 95-97 ranger with 96 explorer gt40 heads, im using 1966 Tri-Y long tube headers. www.ebay.com/itm/335109240439?itmmeta=01HVZHWNVEE9BBJHRG40VRPQ8C&hash=item4e06113677:g:OhoAAOSw0FJfKoik&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABIBcc6H6e0ktxx4TMkxrvhUjWcFsHOf7RWuJ438Rs2QW6%2FjKJZKq0GOXbL4w%2BzxMdU%2FEgsQpjgW1TtrgrEVJBZkSB5igI15cYujbrzuvCHlchu4PdVm6pli5hg7cTA3sXnZU1LhsiWhfgUq07hFbP5Hj%2BgfpM8bP0q5lh%2FPhPNNgHCs2bVxxeUasI%2BhvZGLHhRS1HVZ41LcDYbVxvbj5LmuOpWMXTMNuB1moiYxSCnk30brqbIAltJ3fkhocY8BsZwH3JczAS6inCnau2jfc3BQSURe2Hi6hzbze9CQJzHZ3eI5QwTkjR0m4pqKSzq3Y3ECRTmO4Nuxz97uGT7T62jey9NGeE79m3k3lklSJ8aCvdVvMLWgIyvmET%2B%2FdDO4ZmGQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM5t3y8d9j
Mustang front drive accesories stick out too far. Explorer and ranger share the same basic framework to an extent. Explorer wiring plugs right into ranger 42 pin connector and fires right up with the change of one wire. 351 is possible, and you can use explorer accessories on the 351w which would make all the stock efi hardware work flawlessly. But the lower intake to fit the gt40 on a 351w is $1800. And you have to have headers custom made outside the frame and have to deal with the steering box and steering shaft. I used RickRangerz.com 's 97 ranger 5.0 swap engine plates with 4.0 ranger rubber mounts. And also Ricks raised transmission crossmember
And on top of that anything 351w has a premium price. If anyone were to attempt the 5.0 swap on a ranger, the very first thing would be to buy a 96-2001 ford explorer 5.0. They come in either RWD or AWD, the awd system doesnt have any electronics so they can be swapped easily to a 4x4 ranger. 95-97 ranger you would use a 96 explorer donor. Return style fuel system, GT40 heads, internal egr 98+ you would use a 99-2001 explorer Return-less fuel system gt40p heads, external egr.
I would stay away from the 97-98 because they were mid-body-style mismatched production. 96 is the unicorn, and 99 has the better exhaust manifolds and returnless fuel rail.
You can use a block from a mustang, but that's it. You would be way better off with a complete 5.0 explorer. You can pull literally everything out and put in the ranger. Complete interior and center console, gauges, overhead console, 8.8 LSD 3.73 rearend, tilt steering collumn, cruise control, literally everything. Bigger trans cooler and power steering coolers, dual core larger radiator, 4r70w RWD transmission, etc...
Mustang guys are always looking to install explorer gt40 lower and upper intakes for quick bolt on power, the explorer 5.0 is the most advanced 5.0 before they stopped being used and replaced with the 4.5 and 5.4. So you may as well get the better engine that literally plugs and plays, with the 5.0 explorer
I picked up a brand new 89-91 foxbody flywheel from oriellys, specifically for my 91 foxbody T5 transmission. If you are using a 99 M5odr2 from a f150 4.2 v6 you will need the flywheel for that specific year truck and engine size.
Since mines carbureted so the safety neutral switch doesn’t master I can practically easily just put the f550 clutch master cylinder right in I don’t have to cut or modify anything?
Exactly. The nss and clutch safety are on the same curcuit. So if u have an nss, tie the wires together. And if u have a clutch safety, use the clutch safety that can be taken apart like in the video. What year is your ranger?
@@SBS_Auto mines an 08 2.3 manual truck originally I was gonna slap in everything from a 96 explorer and keep it efi but after I seen all the wiring I had to do I was like screw that so I ripped it all out slapped a cheap aluminum air gap intake with a basic hei distributor and a 1405 Edelbrock carb and the explorer I bought already had torque monster headers on it so I snagged those off for my truck to but I have a 85 foxbody spec t5 and clutch kit I have the whole cheap angle iron L bracket with a cheap 93 240sx slave and I’m running a 4an braided line from my stock master cylinder to the slave I was bleeding it all day yesterday and nothing I was bleeding it to the point where it’d piss straight fluid out no air at all so I was like either my slave is bad or the master cylinder then I had a buddy of mine say to run a f550 master cylinder but I didn’t think it would fit my pedal assembly but your vid reassured me it should and since I’m not running the safety switch is should fit right in place of my stock clutch master cylinder right ?
Its piped in all 3/4" copper. Went in attic demo'd all the 1/2" and replaced everything with 3/4" all the way to the 3/4" shower valve. Used a 3/4" cast copper tee as the water diverter directly above the shower valve, one up to shower head volume control, one to the left for the handheld VC and one to the right for the body sprayers VC, loop is on a 1/2" complete loop.
@sbsauto I got a ranger and it was a 2000 and someone has already done this conversion on it. But I don't think he wired it correctly. I had to replace a part insthe turn signal lever. Just to get the brights to work and now that they work, it seems like the turn signals Just get bright when I push it forward and the main headlights get dimmer . When I pull back on it to flash the brights. It seems like the flashers get bright and the regular lights don't dim?. Help. I'm wondering if I use my turn signal with the brights on is it going to blow a fuse or burn wires?
Interesting, sounds like a broken multifunction switch. Or they wired the headlights crossed with the signals. All i did was take the extra running light bulbs and removed them... this caused a "fast flash" so i installed an LED signal relay under the dash to fix the signal speed. If you've already replaced the multiswitch (lever that operates the turn signal and activates brights) then i would look into replacing the 2000 headlight/signal harness and start from scratch.
I misread ur title lol. I’m in middle of doing a 96 to 96 expo ranger 5.0 with a Dana 44ttb n 50 carrier I been reading about the codes and how to get around em. For the cpu end of things. What did u do to clear your codes? Was it a tune
I go through the complete list of parts in the 97 5.0 intro video on a whiteboard. For THESE gt40 heads, i used 1966 mustang tri-y headers from ebay. These work with 96-97.5 gt40 heads only They will not fit 97.5-2001 gt40p heads.
Absolutely, but i didn't get a chance to get a good look at it, really. I was going to offer you the engine from my red truck if yours was a 3.0. I also have a bunch of parts if you end up wanting to keep it. I can give you a hand getting it going if you'd like.
@SBS_Auto oh ok, bracket for the 08? That would come stock or do you have to upgrade that too? Thanks for replying helps a lot. Also with the headlights, do they plug and play with the stock 08 connector? As if im just changing the same headlights. Thanks ✌️
@Jason.cbr1000rr yes it's a stock bracket u can purchase on www.hondagenuinepartshouse.com Yes the connector for these specific headlights plug right in. But everything else is custom as far as mounting hardware
For a 2000 use a 96-2001 5.0 explorer oil pan and pickup. Im doing a 2000 swap right now actually. Should be done in a month or so Use ricksrangerz engine plates and crossmember Www.Ricksrangerz.com
You really should have pulled a 99 explorer engine and used absolutely everything. Timing cover, balancer, waterpump, accessory brackets etc... from the explorer, and wiring, ecu etc... its all plug and play for the 2000 ranger and 99-2001 explorer.
Did u find all the pieces? Do u see any damage to the cam lobes? Be sure to do an oil change after you hit the top end with some brake clean with the valve cover off, to get all the potential metal down to the oil pan. I got lucky and all the pieces were basically right there next to the opening. Do what i did and rebuild it with all the pieces and youll know whats still in the engine. When u drain the oil, fish around in the oilpan through the drain bolt hole with a flexable magnet. If u dont see any big dingS or broken cam lobes send it. Replace the seal where the vacuum pump stubs through, replace valve cover gaskets and slap the new vacuum pump on with the new gasket.
