Very cool. Thank you for explaining all of these hoses. I am getting the APR stage 1 tune finally next week and am pretty exited. I would love to simplify all of my hoses too, they are so ugly, but it's not easy figuring out what all this spaghetti does.
fantastic to see your work on this cgten looking forward to the videos to come on this project im in the thought process on a awd micra . iv seen rwd swaps with mx5 rear subframes with fabrications check up my nans micra on micra k11 forums
Thanks! Worth looking up the ANK11 March. It was Japan only but had factory fitted AWD. There was an abandoned build years ago where someone fitted a GTiR drivetrain to one of those. The subframes are similar so the ANK11 has a different rear floorpan than the standard models. Failing that, maybe a live axel that attaches to the existing rear trailing arm mounts? Either way it would need some rear tub work.
Hard to tell at this point in time. The car as it came from factory was ~750kg. With the additional weight of the engine and some other supporting components, it's probably an additional 100kg on top of that. Total guess though, I'll take it to a weighbridge once it's on the road, because it's something I'm curious about too.
Loving the videos done few 1.8t conversions myself mk2 golf lupo mk4 golf One thing with the connectors squeeze plugs together as you pull clip back once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed how easy it actually is.
Bleeding the coolant will be fine, worst case just jack the front up when bleeding to make the rad the highest point. This is the standard procedure for E46s.
I love these Primera's I have had 2 of them, 1994 P10 black 4 door saloon base model a 1.6 L ,100 bhp on 13 inch wheels ( 165 SR 13 ) a good handling car with thin tyres. I also had a 2001 silver 5 door Estate a 2.0i Sport Plus, 140 bhp ( 205 / 55 R 16 ) this was a very quick estate car it rode like it was on rails it cornered and did not flinch it was spot on both Primera's so reliable and never let me down , always fired on the first turn of the key, just like my old Nissan Sunny's had 3 of them
currently swapping a 1.8t into my 1.6 16v mk4 golf wagon, and ive been endlessly researching whether or not to delete the n249 or not, and after watching this video ive decided to ditch it and maybe later hide all the bits somewhere and keep it connected SAI and N112 are just useless, cant be bothered trying to get evap working so id rather delete it for a cleaner bay
brotha your welder is either not set hot enough or you're moving too fast, keep in mind that when the material gets hot it will melt faster and quicker. If you take the engine out for what ever reason grind and re weld them welds like that can crack over time. you can find your welders recommended settings chart for the thickness of metal your welding, this would be the thickness of the bracket material.
You keep going on about turbo surge but your wrong. Your going on about turbo flutter when boost pressure goes back into the turbo when you lift off. Turbo surge is when the turbo produces too much boost that whag the engine can accept
Compressor surge is what causes the flutter sound. It sounds like what you're describing would also cause compressor surge, assuming no BOV is fitted and the wastegate isn't doing its job.
No, I bought what I thought was a nice GT, found it was rotten, then reshelled it into an estate where the parts would be useful, drove it for 30,000 miles and then sold it.
I have a Primera P11 GT and I have to confirm that it has bodywork cancer in terminal stage and is not worth fixing. Im very sorry for this because those were very best cars, perfect driving.
Great video thank you for taking the time to upload it. Can you please send the links for the wiring diagrams you are using? That would be really helpful.
Thanks! I've added a link to the thread I used in the description. If you have an account on that forum then the OP has some links in his signature that has all the wiring diagrams. I'd link directly but I'm pretty sure I'd need permission first. Eventually I'll share my spreadsheet, once I've confirmed it all works.
Great to see another episode in the Micra build I bought a whole golf gti donor car to do my swap thinking that I would have every part I needed in one go
Donor car is the best way if you can get one. Sadly for me I didn’t have the room for one, and at the time I was in the market for one the second-hand car market was going crazy so it was cost prohibitive.
thank You for explaining the importance of the N249, I kept telling people about this often get ignored and they wonder why they suddenly get turbo surge when they remove it.
Well, allow me to be the first one to cinically answer your question about your video: the video title doesn't tell you that it is the cheapest car of its type on the whole internet. Who are you trying to clickbait? 😚 I hope that you get my joke! ☺ Content is still amazing, and regarding your last upload the audio is now spot on, looking forward how all this turns out!
I don’t think there is a benefit. The only reasons people do it is to tidy up the engine bay or because they believe it improves response. I think that by removing the system entirely, it eliminates a vacuum leak somewhere and that’s why it seems to have a benefit, the same benefit they would have had if they had located and fixed the vacuum leak. I’m removing mine because I simply have no room for it, I actually think it’s a clever, albeit messy system.
Why dont you look for the aftermarket mishimoto honda radiators, they are like half the size with a fan ! Let me know, i like to think with you to see this project succeed! If you succeed i will do the same!
I did think about Civic radiators, but they tend to be fairly tall in exchange for being narrower. I’ll bear it in mind though because having the rad offset towards the passenger side wouldn’t be a bad thing.
@@cgten if you could pass me the exact measurements of the front where the radiator has to sit (in cm please) ill be more than happy to search with you!
I just had a look myself, and I think it actually might fit. I’ll have to check clearances with the throttle body etc when I go back but it’s another potential solution.
Hey, I enjoyed your video, thanks, question if you don't mind, what company did you send your ECU to and how much were the deletes? Thanks for the informative video 😊👍
By now we all know that you are a guy with a plan. I'm interested what were the critical hard requirements for this project before beginning? I'm thinking about would the engine even fit? Can you actually make engine mounts which are sturdy enough to hold the engine in place? Where / how do you make fitting driveshafts? Etc. I'm currently working on a supercharger kit for the 1.4 (not gizfab). If the high torque delta bends the conrods that's fine, there are forged conrods available, but what if the driveshafts give in? Just makes me anxious. :) Love your videos, keep them coming! I feel sorry for you about the sound, I can only imagine how frustrating it had been. 😪 Also 999 subscribers, let's go!! Greetings from Hungary!
I suspected that the engine would fit with little effort as it's common to swap SR20s in these which are roughly the same size. Seeing someone else manage to pull it off before me though meant I could be 100% certain. It's still a tight fit mind. The engine mounts are sturdy, but I want to go over them and redo some of the welds I'm not happy with. Driveshafts will always be a concern if they're welded, but the way I'm having mine done seems to be a proven method so I'm confident. Sound issues are a constant problem for me, but must power through it. Thanks for watching!
@@cgten Yes I've seen some SR20 swaps as well. In my mind an engine swap could fail on so many levels I rather went with supercharging the original engine. If there would be a conversion kit for it with proper documentation, maybe (what a business opportunity, *wink wink* :)) Seeing you being mostly confident and precise with your work makes it enjoyable to watch. There is way too many butchered Micra builds already. I bet you are not as confident sometimes as you seem on camera, but hey, it is a prototype after all, shit's gonna hit the fan, but it's fine. Looking forward seeing your face on your first pull! Also congrats on your 1k subs! 🥳
Tough day. Working on a 20+ year old engine has challenges. That plastic pipe was bound to break. Not looking forward to doing mine when I put in a catch can.
I am planning to learn to weld and thinking of buying the same machine you bought. I will be very pleased if I start as well as you did. How are you finding the welder a year on?
After some time I'm pretty happy with it, but the lack of fine voltage control makes it hard to apply techniques you learn in tutorials because they all assume you have a voltage dial. Aside from that, make sure you use 0.8mm wire if you're welding anything thicker than 1mm.
dude having no brake booster is not fun. if I were u id relocate the brake booster to the left using a dual pedal control shaft or maybe use an electric brake booster as those usually are way more compact
