I don't really know. I never measured it. Full disclosure though. It ended up collapsing last year in a bad storm when the bed was left outside. The bed was fine though. I REALLY need to get back to it.
That's an idea I didn't think about. That dolly was cheap to make, and it lasted for a few years. Far longer than it was meant to last. I wouldn't sweat it too much.
Nice welder. I am a beginner. I clicked on the video because I saw the HOBART. I am using one at work, it's a different model, but looks identical to yours. The machine is solid and easy to use. I am considering buying this welder for my own personal use. Good video, thanks a bunch.👍
Hobart is a Miller with less bells and whistles. It gets the job done. This welder has been a workhorse for me, and I still love it. Best of luck, and thank you.
I have those same coje bottle stye grips, but' Ive struggled to get the right side grip completely onto the throttle tube. I get it a little more than halfway and then it's just stuck and doesn't want to go any further....so I end up pulling it off and giving up. Is there a trick to it? I see you took the throttle tube out of the housing, maybe that's the way to go. I also thought about sanding those ridges off the throttle tube with my dremel.
I still have it. Currently I'm in a wheelchair after a horrible motorcycle crash. I had starting working on the bed the weekend before I crashed. Spent 3 weeks in the hospital. I'm home now, but still not walking yet.
@@RIPbiker13 i'm sorry to hear about the bike accident. I have also been there, almost lost my right leg, there is a piece of my hip in the lower part of my leg to replace all the bone loss. I am glad you held on to the F250, I am now just pulling the cab corners off my F100 and remember your vlogs. I watched very closely but couldn't make out what you had for a welding rig. Would you let me know what brand and the voltage requirements you have? Thanks !
@PCHelp76180 I have a Hobart 210 MVP and I run it on a 50a circuit with 240v. As far as the fine settings, I can't recall exactly how I set it. I ran some practice tacks on scrap first. The potential for blow through is very high. I have a video of the welding cart build and that show the welder, but that doesn't help with the settings.
A few questions: 1. How did you repair/replace your corrugated truck box surface? 2. Were the cross members rotted in any places? 3. If you did repair the corrugated sheeting, what episode did you do so? You did great work, well done!
The bed has not been repaired yet. It's going to be a while. I had just started working on it a little over a month ago. I've since been laid up for a bad motorcycle crash, and I can't walk for the next couple of months. That said, I can tell you what my plans are. I'm going to use diamond plate or 14g steel sheet as the bed interior, boxing it all in to make it smooth. The supports will be made from 1"x2" steel square tube. 1x1 might be strong enough, though. So, I will get back to it and have a plan, just haven't yet and life has been a roller coster and the truck took a back seat. If you're set on the corrugated steel, I'd look to junk yards and grab a 2000s or 90s F150 bed and use that.
@@RIPbiker13 - I'm sorry to hear that you are banged up right now, take care! We (my son and I) have a Mercury M-100 that we just starting to restore. I was thinking we might fab up new cross members and maybe patch up the rotted corrugated truck bed areas. I could email you pictures of the truck box, maybe you might be able to advise us more. We have also considered buying a used replacement box altogether (might be the easiest). Like you said, we could find a newer corrugated box section and weld it into my outer shell area. Decisions, decisions... Thanks for the advice, sorry again to hear that you are on the mend right now. Your truck build is quite similar to our restoration, I've watched most of your playlist videos about it - great stuff!
The tape is easier to see when the sparks are flying, and the straight edge helps me align the wheel with the tape for a near perfect cut. Mostly, the line is there to help align the tape, and I use both for redundancy. Laying the tape makes a great straight edge for areas such as that. Tiral and error, and I used what worked for me the best.
The old CBs were/are super cool! That Triumph is long gone. Dang thing tried to kill me more times than I care to remember. Currently, but there are no videos, I'm riding a performance bagger Street Glide. The Springer is still here, but mostly collects dust anymore.
@@RIPbiker13 Yes, I was forced to sell the Honda and a 94 VMAX I'd had for 10 years. Needed the money. The triumph is a re-emergence to riding after 6 years not having a bike. I still miss the 750 and the Max. But life goes on.
It’s only a matter of time when one of the grinding or cutoff wheels explodes. Guards should be in place. You don’t want to end up blind or worse. The cart turned out nice.
I have been watching your series on this vehicle. First I would like commend you on your motivation. This a big job. And to catch so much on "film". To do both is alot of work... I like your tenacity, like most of us out here, our pockets are not so deep. So finding ways, learning by doing and yes making mistakes along the way. Some of the videos I have seen from other channels assume money, large shops, great tools and equipment are available to us all. Or not even showing what they did. Your finding another way and showing us so much is very helpful. Yes some might say you should of or could of... but you are getting it done. I have a 1969, 1970 and 1971 high boys 3/4 tons. A 1972 1/2 for parts but it is so nice...not sure I can. Had a 1967... and a 1949 F1 wish I still had that one. So yes I have done alot of things to my 1969 in the day. Going forward your videos help reignite the passion for these trucks. Do not throw anything away, you never know if you may need it later or someone else. So many companies selling things for these trucks, none of them carry everything so having to go through all of them looking for parts is a chore. Not sure why none of them have not said lets carry or try and carry all a builder needs to put one back together. Pricing through some is head scratching not consistent way over what seems fair $$$. So all that could be a vedeo... Thanks again from a lover of these trucks and so far the dirt and grime is not "older the me" lol.
Thank you. I have nit given up but I severely underestimated the time and money this project would take. Covid shut me down when I was on a roll. I'm working on my property and the shop, hoping to get back to the truck. I've been going six and seven days a week with my job and community service I do, so finding the time has not been priority. I will get back to it though. Ever time I see one of these things drive by I crane my neck to get a good look at them.
Good job on the truck it’s looking amazing keep up the hard work You have inspired me to take on my own restoration which is a 1970 Ford F2 50 that was my father’s
I appreciate seeing what you're using, very helpful for doing the same steps on my truck. I was going to use Krylon farm & implement sandable primer + their version of the semi-gloss black you used on the chassis. I didn't know you could use 2K Nason epoxy instead. Any regrets on this approach? Do you wish you had used a 2K semi-gloss black for the chassis? I'm trying to avoid soft paint...and I noted you said the finished paint was a bit soft. Any thoughts appreciated. Nice work.
It is still holding up very well. No issues and I'd take this approach again for the simple fact it's easy to repair if needed. If this were a show truck, which it never will be, I'd powder coat the entire frame. For a driver, I'm very happy with the method I used.
@@RIPbiker13 awesome. Thanks so much for the quick response. I've got to paint outside just like you...so appreciate you letting me know you'd do it again.
I’ve used the pink naval jelly that is brushed onto metal to prevent any rust from forming. If you have rust, just wire brush and apply the naval jelly. REMEMBER to wash off the naval at the 10-15 time mark. Use Low pressure air to blow off water. Let it dry and now you can prime the piece. The naval jelly will apply a coat to incapsulate rust or prevent any rust to come. Nice compound to utilize.
I got the Mustang V part from the Crown Vic I bought. I believe they can be purchased through the website with the link provided in this video however. But, I'm not 100% sure. Worst case, a salvage yard, best case, online or a part store. Mustang V, not b. That might be why you can't find it. Good luck.
I haven't done it. I just did the mechanical part. The wires exist, but they go no where. I have a full harness, but I don't know how to install it yet. I'm sorry, I wish I had a better answer for you.
@@RIPbiker13 yes, I have enuf projects for 2 lifetimes. I have sevral hotrod trucks. I like to mud run. But my little 71 f100 will be the first time I do all the body work myself. I have put in floors before. Other than that it's all been bolt together stuff I've dun. Like I've put bodies on frames & such.
@@jesseduke694 This was my first complete resto. I've built many vehicles over the years, but nothing on this level, and I really bit off a lot for my first real go.
Good video. Im not a body guy. I like the mechanics like engine building & such however I am currently building a 71 shortbox 4x4 for myself & I want to do the body myself. I want to put new floor & cab mnts in it. I'm sure I will end up with a lot of flaws & a paint job that looks like it was dun in someone's garage but im ok with that. Becouse it was. Im tired of paying other people to screw up what I can screw up perfectly fine myself for free labor. I mostly just want a solid truck that runs good & atleast looks good from a distance. That I can say I did it all myself.
Little of what I've done has been perfect, but it has been done with my own hands and that feels good. Don't sweat it. I was trying so hard to make it perfect I got overwhelmed. I keep saying I'm going to get back to it, and I mean it, but I don't. Currently, I have one of my bikes on the lift and hopefully that will be completed in a week or so. Then I'm going to pull my head out of my rear and get back to it, even if it isn't perfect, it needs to get done.
Nice work I seen this video and previous on these parts. I'm at the same place on my project a 63 C10 pickup. Yes I know probably against everyone's morels lol. I haven't done this type of body work so I'm getting every bit of info and tips available. I do have one question though this Ospho product what is it and what does it do these parts look great after painting.
I have a complete explanation of the Ospho in the cab video where I get it back from sandblasting. Long story short though, it converts the iron oxide into iron phosphate through magic. It's just an acid that strips molecules and stops the oxidation by changing the oxidation into an inert substance. I still recommend cleaning and sealing right after the Ospho though.
Is there a particular part you're having trouble with? I'm not a professional and these videos are more for entertainment than a how-to. It's more to share with my dad the progress I've made. In some areas, I know what doing and I love to provide insight at those moments. This was the first time I'd torn into a steering column.
I keep telling myself every week that I'm gonna get after it. Then something happens and I don't. Tree falling, storm, work. Always something and you're right about money, it's expensive.
Great video! I've got the same problem and after seeing how much rust was behind that inner rocker panel after you removed it I think I'm going to need to do the same thing
thanks for posting this video I've been looking for this I have a 69 as well it looks like you have the spear shaft that's not collapsible I have not taken mine apart yet and I was kind of intimidated about doing it I know that there's not a lot of moving parts in there to change but what happened is is my shift collar is all sloppy and flapping around something broke inside there since the shift color was broken when I bought the truck the handle had broken off and you would have to stick the handle inside or you have to grab the shift collar and move it by hand to ship the truck into gear. when you pulled the collar out I see that the color is attached to an actual tube I didn't see if there was any gears on the bottom of it that went into that shift lever I'm kind of wondering what would have actually broke back there to have the shift collar slopping around like that was it an actual piece of the shift color itself or was it some kind of a bushing sleeve or a bearing inside I kind of hate to take it apart and find out that that part's not a serviceable part I do have a spare shift collar that I bought it's an aftermarket one but it's brand new any thoughts on what could have caused that shift color to be just slopping around the part that has the handle attached to it the section that has the turn signal switch on it is fine unless the back of it attaches to the shift color which I don't think it does otherwise it wouldn't move back and forth.
I'm not entirely sure. If mine had been broken when I rebuilt it and I was unable to service the part, I'd replace the entire column with a tilt column. Whether that be from a later model or aftermarket.
@@RIPbiker13 thanks yeah I agree it still does shift although the collar is really sloppy and it flaps around so I don't really understand what keeps that collar in place unless there's something at the bottom of the tube that has broken that keeps it stabilized like a sleeve or something it's a little intimidating because I have never done it before although many things on that truck were intimidating but now since I've done it one or two times it's pretty easy. But anyway thanks for posting up the video it gives me a step-by-step to take my column out put it on the bench and actually see what broke if it is something that is unserviceable I probably would do like what you were saying I seen Max Auto parts or LMC truck one of those too they had a tilt steering column for like $800 that was supposed to be like a direct replacement not a universal for our trucks I figure 800 to 1,000 is really not that bad for a direct bolt in column
I did buy a b&m truck mega shifter I haven't installed it yet it's still in the box for that reason that a lot of these things are worn out inside I think the only replaceable parts is like maybe the springs and some bearings the rest are just like the turn signal switch and I'm I'm thinking what it could possibly be also as there might be a bushing that actually keeps the shift tube centered on the steering rod. The only thing about installing the mega shifter is is that I would have to have it a little bit more forward than I would like otherwise you wouldn't be able to slide the bench seat forward and all the pics I've seen it was right up against the bench seat so I wouldn't want to just install that floor shifter and not actually fix or even see what's going on wrong in that steering column I wouldn't just want to leave it like that
The inner piece isn't seen from the outside and I have never seen it in the aftermarket scene. I only say it because it's easy enough to create a patch panel and know it won't be visible.
@@willhart7861 I am too. It is a bad spot and on most trucks of this vintage, it will be destroyed. I believe the reason we don't see it in repop is because it isn't seen. Then again, a lot of the repop sheet metal takes a lot of work to get right, so it's a lot of work no matter how you go about it.
My first welding cart was made out of an old deer stand came out really nice most I had in like 20 or $25 just for the wheels then I end up buying me a plasma Carter hypertherm 30 XP man I had to build up for my welding cart for the plasma cutter Bob Elkhart Indiana
The cab mounts were no longer holding the cab. The floor board was sitting on the frame rail and that was rusted through too. The cab is much more solid now and the doors open and close again. No, the original mounts would nit have been good to keep.
Not trying to tell you what to use but if you do a frame like this again i highly recommend Corroseal instead of Ospho leave a paintable surface doesn't need scuffing after being applied really actually does stop rust in it's tracks
I've never heard of that product. I'll say though, the frame has held up and still looks good. Especially considering the truck isn't done and the frame is exposed. I'll look into Corroseal for the future.
