Thank you for the video very helpful, having the same issue only its both lines on my 2010 f-150, got the lines from our local Ford dealer, planning on installing them today now i know what to expect , video is inspiring.
@@yogi799 After the lines were installed and fluid was added there were leaks in both lines , took your advice and bought two packs of those Dorman O-ring assortments, going to try to install them without removing the lines completely, also removed that plastic front skirt piece to get better access as shown in the video, thanks again.
Yeah.. The springs get rusty but isnt BMW fault since even if they aftermarket this happens.. I changed last year the front right and now is the Back right.. They always recommend change both sides springs because they will never bounce same because of over the years they lose their flexibility etc etc.. I changed both front and now both back. Thanks for the vid.. Just needed to know where the hell is the bolts to take away the suspension hehehe
1. Brake fluid flush time is a good time to check brake pad thickness. The radial groove on the pad should be visible, if not it's time for new pads. 2. What almost all fluid change videos miss is that the caliper is full of fluid and simply pumping fluid through it, or sucking it through, may not fully replace fluid in the caliper, which is where new fluid is most needed. To accomplish that, push the brake pads and caliper pistons to the full retract position and place something between the pads to keep them far apart. The proceed as usual; remove the spacer when done. 3. Do not forget to top up the master cylinder fluid reservoir after bleeding each wheel.
are you kidding? what the fuck.... you didnt add torque specs! especially for the sway bar. this is a useless video ..... its not easy to get the specs. isnt this video suppose to show you EXACTLY how? how am i suppose to know torque specs. im expecting this video to show me EVERYTHING. and you miss the most important fucking part.... unreal dude
I have a 535i 2011 with only 56k miles, should I do this maintenance? It’s easy but I’m just unsure if this will cause slipping, it’s the perfect mileage to do it so might as well do it….
True. One of the reasons I never wanted to work on it again. Nightmare jobs and so soon into ownership. But honestly, replacing my starter on a 2010 F150 is just as hard. Unreal the design on some of these cars.
Great video, I followed your steps on my 2012 535i. Couple comments: on my car, on the intake, the first two (of 7) fasteners were bolts, not just one like on your car. I would suggest the ratchet e-Torx is a must. I found a cheap set on Amazon for $30 CAD. Thank fully i didn’t have to fight for hours on the bolt under the oil filter housing like you did. Overall it took me 4 hours including going to BMW parts for an intake nut that dropped into the engine bay, never to be found again. Lots of clean-up needed for the oil and coolant that spills.
I am here because I messed up bought two shocks from a scrap yard they both looked dry only to discover that they wer cleaned so they don't have the oil they even worse than the ones I took out😂😂😂 Tip of the day don't buy used mechanical parts from junk yard only buy stuff that never needs to be repaired...
$1048 for this service at our dealer…not an easy job, but not worth $1048. When you said, “I’m beginning to regret doing this job,” I knew that feeling all too well. I like BMW’s but they don’t know how to make a gasket to save their lives…and they have way too many hard, or impossible to reach bolts for what should be a simple job. Germans pride themselves on their engineering…a great engineer makes servicing their creations easy…not difficult enough to drive you crazy!
Thanks bud. Yeah it's nice to be able to help others save 1k and I hope I've made it easier for you all. But truth be told, I've sold my BMW a year ago dreading to have to do more of these unexpected repairs. This stuff doesn't break on other cars.
Hi, thank you for the informations. For you is it better Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC 75W90 or Motul Motylgear 75w85? In Europe, Redline is very expensive and difficult to find.😅
Hey, I have stopped doing this last year but it has worked great for 10 yrs. Just too much work for no benefit. Now doing this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C5A6QHAgoHk.html and this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5bxkARBIKl4.html. And it worked, engine survived.
Nice to watch, but there is a one big error on installation. You have to torque the lower suspension bolt while the car is the normal driving position as BMW declares. Don’t torque the bolt while car is jacked up. Always final torque when the car stands by it’s own weight so the bushings don’t stress and break
@driftyrx8 Looks like hes using somekind of nonstick pan tray paper to me, I think he's all good. As long as it's a non woven cloth, without leaving particle residue, like wax paper or pan paper, it's fine.
Great video, this is the way most of us would be able to do this job, on the driveway at home with basic tools. No B.S. no extensive workshop or car lift. Brilliant and well explained. Thanks for sharing this with us.
You are a cowboy that is lucky to have all of your limbs. How your airgun trigger works by just pushing the hose on an off. Scary. Then doing everything one handed like a spastic? That poor brake hose! I've got my second broken spring and looking to do it myself as I'm an engineer. Just needed to know how to access the relevant bolts. Thanks for that part though. The rest, you are lucky to have all of your fingers and eyes. If you were doing this in the middle of nowhere OK, but you are NOT.
@@yogi799 You will save me not only on the labour cost, (but buying cheaper than official prices will help me.) I'll have to hire a spring compressor too. Look after your kids as if a spring slips, it sort of goes bang before you know it. OK for you, but keep the kids away. Cheers.
That big bottom strut bolt has to be torque at 180ft-lbs not 120 😂 There's a trick to doing this job easier and that's having all the right tools and full torque specs for each bolt and nut. Harbor Freight has all the tools ull need. For the big bottom strut bold removal, in my case cause i have EDC shocks on my M Sport 535i, it was soo damn hard to try to remove with just a hand power and a long breaker bar. So i studied it hard and found a way. I got a medium size good quality breaker bar that doesn't flex (Icon) put on a 3in extension and the 21mm deep impact socket. Went right under the bolt as there's about a 3 to 4 inch spack , got a good lock position and grabbed onto the exhaust pipe for leverage and used my powerful legs and pushed the breaker bar. That got it loosed easily. Now my M12 Stubby was able to get in there with the deep socket and loosen it more where i was able to use my wrench now to fully remove it!
This saved my but. Thanks for posting. I couldn’t find those two on the lower side. My engine is in a tritoon, with the engine cover opening from the stern.
The other thing that always works is heating it up with propane torch. but be sure to not burn any rubber nearby as then you're screwed. I use propane all the time for removing brake rotors. must be red hot to go easily. but again, dont damage anything non-metal
Nice ....this helped me out since in the FCP Euro video they demonstrate on an X5 which has really easy access to the fill plug. My 535 is like yours and when I crawled under the car and saw the difficulty I was really disappointed. Thankfully I got to see you troubleshoot almost exactly the same situation!
