Устанавливая на машину огромные баки для воды вы признаетесь, что собрали систему с неэффективным радиатором) Помните - чем больше в системе воды - тем дольше ее потом нужно будет охлаждать, плюс дополнительный вес. Это НЕ инженерный подход 😊
I love it. Very original and thinking outside the box. Also love the idea of a wireless remote. Very Handy. All those angles had to have changed when you hooked it to the truck. When you imagine that hitch at regular receiver height, the entire trailer would be at such an angle that I think even the rear axle would be off the ground. With the tongue hitch at ride height, the actuator jack would only need to extend a fraction of what's being shown here. Right? Do you have any video of it in use - actually hooked to the tow vehicle and loading / unloading a vehicle? I sure do wish I'd seen this before I rebuilt my car hauler. Thanks for sharing.
Sketchy AF. Look at the angle of that fwd jack when the tilt is up. You can't even have a tow vehicle hooked onto it while you load... which makes shit even more scary. That + all the weight on the extensions... you better be damn sure the ground is 100% flat or it's going to roll onto its side. Also, the cantilever is way too short and the axles of that trailer are too far back for hauling cars. I like how you just went for it though, man. I still think you did a great job building it I just don't like the design.
I’ve loaded my car and truck on this trailer over a dozen times with zero issues. Don’t be concerned about the angle of the jack. In the video I was simply showing how the trailer operates. You never load a vehicle on a trailer without it hooked up to a truck. So the jack only sees weight when the trailer is flat. And the ball can easily handle that articulation. Never had a problem. The axle placement is the same as two trailers I have at my work, which were built by professionals. When I load my car, the rear tires are still on the wood, and my drivers door swings over the fender. So my weight ballast is pretty good. So although you seem to have a lot of concerns regarding the design, I can assure you, you’re wrong about all of it.
Love your channel. I have a 66 Goat that I want to upgrade to power brake rotors etc. There are several sites on eBay that have complete front and rear conversion. The rear brakes say need " need machined to fit". Which means axles need to come out. Correct? Keep up the good work. Thanks Craig
I drillled 5/8 holes through four pieces of half inch plate and welded them to the trailer frame. Then welded some pipe to the ends of the hitch which slid up between those plates. Shoved some grade 8 bolts through them with some grease and called it a day.
Super cool. thanks for the inspiration. I'm going to try something similar and make a dumping trailer, which will need to tip a lot more for stuff to slide out. Also, did you make the crossmembers out of square or rect tube? why? I think your supposed to used C-channel as the best crossmembers.
I'm sure you have had plenty of use of the trailer by now. So is the actuator strong enough to lift a car on the trailer to back it off, or do you have to back the car up to help it??
It’s a bracket from ICT Billet. They have dozens of brackets for mounting in many different locations. Can’t remember exactly which one I have, but check out their website, I’m sure you’ll find one that works.
Hi from Bornholm Denmark. what a great job. I wold probably mount 2 pcs. of trolley , so that the hoist always hung horizontally. but thanks for the ideas.
Is that bottom bolt enough to fasten the bottom of the shockwave? Im having a hard time finding that separate piece to fasten the bottom of the shockwave to the control arm for my 61 Falcon
@@averagedadsgarageout of curiosity since the bolt doesn’t fill the full shockwave circle, wouldn’t this introduce rattle or possibly even cause the shock to jump a little if going over a bump in the road?
@@usamatuqan1623 the bolt I have in there fits tight. And I have spacers on both sides of the shockwave to keep it from sliding side to side on the bolt. No play, no noise.
@@averagedadsgarage thank you. Its funny I searched to see if anyone was using air ride to control waste gate and didn't think I would find one. Thank you for the video and response.
"Flat Board Sander" we always called an "air file". I've done around 30 cars. Too many layers of bondo ends with too much waste on the floor. Better to go ajust a little heavy on that first coat and then sand to finish than to apply, sand, apply sand, etc. But you're getting it. Also, what drove me out of the profession were the styes I got around my eyes from the bondo dust. Once I had around 40 or so I decided to lay down my paint gun... and here's a great hint I had to learn the hard way... before you paint in that garage, if you can, of course clean it entirely! Once that's done and you're ready to paint, wheel the car back in and then waste about a 5th of a gun of paint spraying the air around the inside of the garage. The paint in the air will attach to the dust in the air which will make it heavier and either fall to the floor or stick to the walls and ceiling... resulting in less dirt in the finished product. Have fun though... that's the important part. Hobby's should be fun! Oh yea... and to find that really illusive "wave" in the metal or bondo... I used to put on a thin coat of black. Then block sand it with like a 220. Tha black will make every flaw show. You're doin great!
It’s called Greyish Blue. Not very original, I know. lol. I got the inspiration from another truck painted almost the exact same color. His color was called Battleship Grey. Much cooler name.
@@averagedadsgarage Nice. I just got their PTK-4 kit for my 72 El Camino with front and rear coil overs. I've been reading a lot of bad things about CPP but for the price it's hard to beat. I am disappointed that they lied about something. I asked them what brand ball joints they use in their control arms and they told me they use their own high quality ball joints. Well they're stamped with a part number and trace back to Duralast, China made auto parts for AutoZone. I'm replacing them with Proforged but now I'm worried the bearings are also Duralast.
@@averagedadsgarage Nice. I just got their PTK-4 kit for my 72 El Camino. I've read a lot of bad things about CPP but for the price you can't beat this kit. I am disappointed CPP lied to me about something. I asked what ball joints they use with their control arms, they told me they use their own "high quality" ball joints. Well, they're stamped with part numbers and they are using Duralast ball joints. I'm assuming the bearings are also Duralast. I'm replacing the ball joints with ProForged and bearings with National.
