i love this kind of video. and the chart at the end doesnt lie. these are the results. my fav kind of video, right up there with your engine rebuild how to. great job!
the stock tune my new zenoah g320 came with was definitely a little lean on the low screw, this engine is so much better / stronger than my old 29cc rovan, my baja does wheelies now xD .. my 29cc lost at least 1 hp after 60~ liters of fuel, i think its the bearings .. sometimes it had full power and on the way back it suddenly felt sluggish for no reason, didn't matter what i changed on the carb it always ran weird :/ im probably rebuilding it at some point to throw in a roller or something
@@tezy0193 Yeah those G320 engines are the boss. Very reliable. These engines do like the bottom end a bit richer. The 29cc probably needs new ring and bearings then it'll be good to go again
What are your thoughts on the Rovan 45cc engine. Is the squish good from the factory as well as carburetor or would I have to do some digging in before running it
Thank you so much for the comment and support 💪 Our cars are really made not to Wheelie in their design but it is possible. The lowest ratio we have is 16/58. Then you'll need to make the front shocks stiff and the rear very soft. Oh and you'll need a high Rev clutch with good grip tyres. Best odds
question. my brand new 290rc ran fine first 2 breakin tanks at stock settings (super rich) but now i cant get it to idle without turning the idle screw in like as much as your "standard 1 full turn out from bottom".. is this normal? for them to change this drastically from first few heat cycles?
@@claudekim7876 thanks for reaching out. Every car is very diverse. It is normal yes. It if you are running the Rofun 1107 it could mean more so. Those carbs within the same model is very diverse. Question for you: is the big idle screw all the way in? The important part is having a good running car that smokes a little once hot. It will smoke more when cold. This is normal.
@@EZR its a 990 carb. Yea screw isnt all the way in but it is decently in. Id say 1.5 or 2 turns out. The stock needle setting (1 1/8 L and 1 5/8 H) makes my car run super rich. Tho i think this is the fault of the 2 stroke oil im using. I changed it to amsoil dom yesterday and it smokes far less and seems to idle way higher now.. (even after heating up). Im just confused cuz some ppl say you should back the idle out all the way and then move it till it just starts moving thr butterfly. But then everyone else ive spoke to says to screw it in all the way and back it out 1 or 2 turns to start...
@@claudekim7876 I have owned and tuned these cars for more than 10years. I am one of five 5th scale automotive technicians in South Africa and 99% of all cars I turn the idle screw in all the way and don't touch it again. Especially the 990 because it needs a very righ low end to start reliably. Trust me on this. Set your idle with the Low End Needle not the ideal screw
My 23 CC engine will only run very lean settings, and on very lean settings it will not rev, instead, it will die and it will not run at factory settings, and if it does run runs for a short period of time and then conks out
@@elidunk8989 have you recently changed carb manifolds or gaskets? It is not very common for a car to only run when lean. My first thought is vacuum hole on the manifold. Is it open all the way through?
@@EZR thank you very much. The problem seems to have fixed itself slightly, but I’m unable to run the car for a week or so so I will see how it runs after that and if I have any problems I will message you on RU-vid if that is okay, thank you for your help so far it’s much appreciated.
Good day. Thank you for the comment. I have not been able to test one myself yet as I can't justify the price. Might as well buy a Taylor 35. But I would like to try it though. The few guys on YT that did test it did not have good things to say. The pipe is a big let down. Manufacturing your own will be best. If my channel grows or I get a sponsor I'll definitely be able to buy and test one. Appreciate your support.
@@EZR i got the stock 29cc KING motors, with the stock clutch (first gen, rovan send me the wrong heavier one when i replaced it last time) atm i have 7000 rpm springs in it, before always the 8000 rpm .. it does that since ive bought this thing, sometimes they hold up a little longer.. but the last 2-3 springs broke way too fast. thanks for the reply!
@@tezy0193 that is bizarre. I firmly believe in the Rovan 7000 Lightweight clutch (670251) and have good success with it, but it doesn't sound like the problem is the Clutches. Personally if possible, I would change the clutch bell. The bell inner diameter is normally 2mm greater than the clutch outer diameter.
@@EZR thats the thing, got the heavier one in there thats making the "problems" recently, i took it apart today .. turns out the spring was fine this time, it ripped one of the bolts of the clutch holding plate off .. had to drill it out, i guess it wasnt enough loctite 🤷♂ i already changed the clutch bell one time, to the hex version ah its almost time for a bigger engine anyway, when its winter in a few months :D ..
3:20 is the critical moment in this video to me. Closing both needles proved my Rovan 29 can start no problems. This info was critical to me, as I don’t like to change plugs and carbs for no reason. Furthermore my engine only idles with the LSN at half a turn out. I know that’s crazy for a Walbro carb. You would think it’s too lean. So either it’s note getting enough air or….? Time for a carb tear down and filter clean I think
Good day there. Thank you so much for watching. I am really glad that this video could help. It does sound like something in your carb needs replacing but not too serious. Luckily these carbs are reliable and easily fixed. Hope it gets you up and running very soon.
I got a few of those pool start cords that are just like that now I’ve seen how you’ve done it. That’s a job for me tomorrow to get stuck in and fix the ones that are exactly like your one. They’re not freeways. Thank you very much for that tip, hope you are going well and having a good day you and your family. 👍🏻🇦🇺
Why thank you! 😎 Now I feel like looking even better in the next one 🕺 I also love that sound. Even more so, I love the smell of 2-Stroke in the morning.
Awesome stuff mate. Super happy you did this video.. Wow now they were some really surprising results thats for sure. Amazing to see how quickly the engine reacted to the higher ratios. I really didn't think we'd see a drop off like that with the 20/54. Like you mentioned thats a clutch killer if anything else. I've got the 29cc so your next video will speak volumes for me. Hey a little trick to getting the pinion gear off without needing to put grips on the teeth. With the spur and the pinion still mounted to the car get a spare spur gear and hold it in the gear mesh between the spur and pinion. You'll be able to undo the pinion bolt while the spur you're holding locks everything firm. Saves possibly damaging the teeth with grips. So far looks like the 18/56 is the best but the stock 17/57 still isn't too bad for straight out of the box. Thats a great GPS tracker. Perfect. Thanks again mate. .
Thank you so much for commenting. I'd be sure to try the Spur Gear trick. Simple but effective. The stock gears are great for offroading. You'd definitely see a difference on tarmac. I love the 18/56. They just expensive in our Country. Not so easy for everyone to stock. I'm gonna do some drag racing in upcoming kids to show the visible results those few teeth make.
@@EZR Yeah sweet as. That should be a good video to watch and see the results. Because science. haha. Yours being a more powerful engine over my 29cc we might find the stock 17/57 is actually perfect for it. Who knows now after seeing these results. Anything's possible now.
Yeah. I wanted to, but our new place is about 15km from tarmac. So if I need something from the shop it's long drive home. But I do have some tarmac testing coming up in the near future
That's a great idea. I'll do that in the next video. Decided while I have everything setup I might as well do a top speed test on all the gear ratios. Will post that next.
I enjoy all your tips and tricks and how you go about repairing things and information on these 1/5 buggies. Enjoy your RU-vid videos mate. Keep them coming. You’re doing really good. Your information is very useful. 👍🏻🇦🇺
No worries mate. You do really good stuff on your channel. Can you get right into the thick of it? If there’s a major problem? You do good work and you explain how things work and how things go good on you and hope you’re having a good day you and your family mate, it’s wet and miserable at the moment here in Victoria Australia 👍🏻🇦🇺
@@EZR I did that earlier. My new issue is that the thing has no power under load. I can hold the car back with my foot no problem even after swapping the clutch
It might just be the ring. Best to strip the engine. Check the ring and bearings. Dont swop the bearings if they not wonky. Worn bearings are nice and loose. It normally takes 5x tanks of fuel to get those bearings loose.
Thank you so much for the support. It is not ported. Just straight dropped and decked cylinder. The same as I sell in my shop. My 32cc and 36cc engines and cylinders are all decked with this performance
Howzit! Yeah man. I absolutely love making vids, but we had to move and then the crazyness that is life took over. But we're in a good place now so 'n hopefully I'll pop some out soon.
I'm really keen to see your findings with the different gear ratios. I'm running a 29cc Rovan Baja with the stock 17/57 and always wanted to try out different ratios. I was even going to test a 16 pinion as well as the pinions you mentioned. I'm thinking passed a 21 it would be too much for a 29cc but might still be excellent for the 32cc. Good video mate. I subbed and belled ages ago.
Howzit! Thank you so much for the support! Yeah I think the max a 29 should run is a 19T. The 16 will be spinning all over the show. The only time I'll run a 16T is if I am Drag Racing with a 23cc. Need very high RPM and it'll give a killer pulloff. I'll be doing those tests next week on the 32 and post, then I'll do the 29 and post.
@@EZR Awesome mate. I was wanting to see if I could gear it to pull a small wheelie off the line. 29cc probably isn't powerful enough but I was willing to give it a try. Super glad you'll be doing all the hard work for us and save me the money on buying gear ratios. Be funny if the stock ratio is the best haha. . I had the HPI Baja RTR 23cc years ago but this 29cc Rovan is waaaay better in every way. Bigger shafts. Beefier arms. Metal diff. You know the deal. Cheers mate.
@@redsmagic4907 The Rovan Baja is a lot better than the HPI baja. They took all the good bits from the HPI and fixed all the bad bits and made the Rovan Baja. The Sport version is the one I'm talking about. Theres two different 29cc Rovan bajas. The dearer sport version comes with beefier parts. I had the HPI 23cc RTR baja over 10 years ago but this 29cc Rovan Sport is miles better in every way.
@@ironmaiden5658 I hope the results are conclusive. The thing is, the Baja was designed to stay on the road. To get it to Wheelie even with a beefy engine is tough. Especially Rovan which are longer than the HPI.
