Electric car conversions and maybe some robots and smarthome stuff. Along with some CAD, code, and 3D printing. That's what you can expect to find here.
In my day job I'm an applied futurist, helping companies, charities and governments around the world to see and plan for what's next. Sometimes my job crosses over into my hobby: I learn by making things.
This channel is part of an attempt to document those projects, from home-made electric cars, to smart hydroponics systems, to shonky robots. Despite a degree in mechatronics, I am a LONG WAY from being the best or smartest maker. But you can follow along as I learn.
In lockdown 2020, my eldest daughter and I embarked on building our first DIY EV, based on a BMW Z3. It turned out to need a lot of restoration but 15 months later it was road legal and is now my daily driver. But the project is never finished. It's getting upgrades all the time. And I've started on a second project...
Hi Wondering if you could help me figure out if we need new motors on our Renault Scenic and if so which motor/motors need replacement. Currently when returning to the car the driver's wiper will move up the screen as you unlock the door for some reason and then it waits for the passenger side wiper to move itself out of the way in small incremental movements which only happens with turning the wipers on and off 4 times or so. Once it finds its way back down to the bottom of the windscreen the passenger side then moves itself up to the service position out of the way and then the drivers wiper functions as normal for the rest of the journey. Only to go through the above procedure again when entering the car again for the next trip. I have not managed to find anyone online discussing the same issues in the same way, but it seems to me that the driver side is OK and it would be the passenger side that is having problems. Any help appreciated, Many thanks
It would have been beneficial to me if you could say what your wipers were doing that made you change both motors. At the moment our passenger wiper eventually moves itself out of the way into the service position and then the drivers side works as it should. I can't get the wipers to go into the service position the same as you did, how long do you have to wait? I've tried waiting 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds - So frustrating. I have tried a reset procedure I found online with the ignition on move stalk from 0 to 1 and then 1 to 0, then disconnect the wiper motor plugs and reconnect and do the same with the ignition on move stalk from 0 to 1 and then 1 to 0. Nothing makes any difference. I feel like the motors are working if they move the wiper arms. With the drivers side working as it should would the passenger side still be able to move itself out of the way? Any help appreciated
unfortunately with these cars the design of the scuttle drains is terrible. I'm on my 3rd scenic now, and every one ive bought the first job I did is clear scuttle drains and cut off the rubber flap. my current Mk3 grand scenic has the original wiper motors because the scuttle has never been blocked. also don't forget to poke a long curtain wire down the drain hose.
My wiper motors went, cant get new ones anywhere, but found a great used parts website & paid about £360 with 6 months guarantee. My driver's door lock went also, found a new one at £200.
@@EVDIY My wipers fixed themselves just randomly started working again. It started raining and I instinctively flicked them on then was shocked when they both worked. Im guessing water got in? I did have to drain the channel at the back
I changed my wifes car ones today also. Thanks for the flaps tip. They are now in the bin. I hope no junk will be trapped anymore for a while. Thank you so much.
Car is driving again. On same inverter but only on MG2, I've removed the parallel link that allows MG1 to contribute current. If I was to be more scientific I'd put it back in and see if the error returns
No - I've not had great luck with the scanner on larger items yet. Though I've also not put enough time into it. I'd love to have a model of the whole car.
I had issues with the Nissan plug that connected to the inverter and ended up bypassing the plug altogether. I guess we are plugging them in and out more often than they can cope with.
This one is my own crap crimping. Or more accurately, using the wrong sized wire. If I redo it I'll do tails of some thinner stuff that fits into the crimps better.
Good progress mate, I don't think a single one of us ever put them back in the right order! 🤣 Have you seen the stainless steel tie wraps that are stronger and don't have the ratchet effect? They might be even better for your pipes. Oh and I think I lost count around 8 innuendos so you are getting better. 😝
Yeah. I think once it's finished, finished - you know, in thirty years or so - I might go with something more permanent. But these just work for now. And they're cheap! It's not like the system is ever under pressure given the temperatures we're working with.
Cheers! These are the later six module pack - which is perhaps why I'm now having issues with the BMS as it works slightly differently (though there could be many hardware and software reasons for this). The old modules will be made up with one of the spares to another six module pack with the best of my knackered ones and go in the boot for even more range. But I figured it would make most sense just to put the new modules up front first.
9:50 "I've gained myself 20mm already with this one simple trick." sounds like one of these typical shady RU-vid advertisments 🤣🤣 "You won't believe the results of this trick they don't want you to know!" 🤣🤣
JPS CAR PARTS, I used, based in Carlisle. They aren't a breakers yard, but they go to them & buy & test used parts for many brands. Highly recommend them.
Poor Karim, pouring his heart out about his EV conversions and he's upstaged by the cat! 🤣 Another great interview Tom and another great guy in the community. 🙂
Cheers! It has two names. I've been calling it 'the 300' for short (the body is a Tribute Automotive Z300S) but it has another, grander name that I'll reveal at some point. It involves some very British quirky family history!
Yeah but I don't think it's the same issue on mine. The motor isn't the problem. It has no problem spinning. It's the friction in the cable Vs the grip of the wheel. Might need a new wheel or a shorter cable.
I think I would have welded an angle piece to the mount to the left. The forces on it might make it break off again without more bracing. But than again I always over build stuff so it ends up being far heavier then required. I was told the heater needs to be pointing up to prevent air locks but you probably already know that. 😉
Yeah I'm pretty confident in it. It was just a crap weld first time around. There's no upwards or sideways pressure on that weld any more. Just straight down through the mount so I very much doubt it needs any bracing. I had actually forgotten that about the heater but I'm hoping the positioning of my pump and filler will overcome any air locks.
Thanks for this brilliant video. Easy to follow and with a good level of useful info, not least about the drain tubes and looking out for the potentially missing bush. I have the same issue re wipers and with 140k miles on the clock and several dings to various body panels, our 'family bus' ain't worth much and so we are definitely in 'write off' territory. You might have just saved the day! Thanks a million :-) One question - has anyone tried to replace just one motor and then retro-sync to the original one? Just thinking ...
Maybe. I have no way to weigh it! It moved very easily with the car on it with the Grand Scenic. Suspect I may have to move this trailer on anyway. Was hoping to use it to at least transport everything to my new garage but that is still looking a long way off.
I don't think there's anywhere near enough torque to justify it. Even with that failed weld, the old setup worked pretty well. The new one (see Monday's vid) is super, super solid. And doesn't waste engine bay space. The mounts for my 300h motor will have to be much beefier. But these are more than adequate for this.
Great progress. It will also be interesting to see how much of a difference the extra battery module makes. Not quite clear on the coupler noise though. What was it grinding on and was the whole coupling sliding towards the motor? Have you put a fix in?
Sorry may not have been clear enough. There was a piece of tube bolted on that surrounds the input shaft on the gearbox. It was rubbing on this. There's no need for it to be there as the coupler can't slide that way because the splines section that goes over the output shaft on the motor is too small to fit over it. And there's not enough space for it to slide in the other direction. So I just took it off - the bit of tube. I don't think any other fixes should be needed.
