Both bulbs dying doesn't bode well for quality doesn't it? And returning them for a warranty claim cost me 10 euro. I can buy three pairs of Osram Night Breakers for the price of a pair of these "Made in China" LED and as an added bonus, I will have no problems with APK (our TüV, MOT, CT, whatever) because the pattern of the LED H7 isn't quite perfect in my car.
Ik heb van Lidl er zojuist een aangeschaft. Moet je nog iets instellen, of slechts het bit erop en losdraaien? Want bij mij draait hij ze er niet uit, alsof het bit doordraait ofzo.
Het is een slagmoersleutel, er zit een beetje speling op en door de klappen op die speling moet de moer of bout loskomen. Staat de instelling wel op de hoogste stand? Staat de draairichting goed? En past de dop goed?
Thanks so much. This is really helpful. Same issue on my 2000 v70i. Used 850 OBD2 app and got this code: ECC-311 Going to go look for a used damper motor now.
I have a Ford Figo Trend 2017 Hatchback and had work done on the car and one part was to assess this strain noise I’d hear when switching to defrost and they said it simply needs calibration but since then, I can’t change any modes. Just blowing in all directions. Changed some fuses albeit they were fine and tried a battery disconnect and drain of residual power and still no change. Only info is: B1086:07 Air Distribution Damper Motor. Status: On-Demand DTC’s B1086:07-0A Air Distribution Damper Motor. Status: Continuous Memory DTC’s I know it’s not Volvo per vid but similar issue as can’t change airflow modes 😢
@@volvo480 So good news, I actually have found a way and I did fix my ECC unit. You need the OBD-II app on android and a compatible ELM-327 bluetooth scan tool. There is a function in that app that will kick the ECC out of relearn mode. The defrost motor works great now, and you can do other helpful things with that app. My recommendation is to STEER CLEAR of VIDA for any ECC issues with these cars, and use the OBD-II app. It works with most all 850's and S/V/C70s.
Thanks a lot for this video and the very detailed description. It's given me the best understanding of this issue that I've seen anywhere! I wish I had seen it before I brought my car to the Volvo dealer with the same blend motor problem. It appears they tried to calibrate with VIDA and turned my ECC module into a door stop, exactly as you've described. I've replaced the ECC module with a used one, thankfully returning it to it's previous usable state, but of course, I still have the blend motor problem. A couple of questions if I may. When you replaced the motor, you mention that you turned the white cam disc until it clicked. Did you pull the disc off of the motor and do this first, or while attached to the motor? I notice there is a channel on the front and back of the disc where the damper lever pins ride. Is there only one way these can go, and is it difficult to line them up? I have a replacement motor that I plan to rebuild as you did and then install it. Is there a particular position in its sweep that I should put the motor in before installing, to avoid calibration issues? Thanks again!
What you should do is leave the white disc on, just pull the motor off. Look in which position the replacement motor is and turn the white disc by hand so it will approximately match the position. Then push the replacement motor back on the disc, it will fit only one way. Put the screws and connector back in and you're good to go!
Nee Balletjet Gehak. Mike Bodde heeft t nog zo duidelijk gezegd dat de rotterdammert oftewel gozert dat je de t overal erachteraan plakt waart het niet hoort. en weg laat waar het wel hoort. voorbeeld: hijt heef veelt snoept gepak.
Nu is alles oververzadigd en weten we van gekkigheid niet meer waar het eind is en hebben we tot in het oneindige "niks te verbergen" en is data een biljoenen industrie geworden en laten we ons zelfs als een stelletje onnozele schapen door Klaus Scwab en China en anderen pakken... Wat een wereld!
Thanks for making this video! Just for clarification, those 6 points to solder are responsible for VEM module randomly worning-not working case? What are the bulbs that go to the VEM?
The problem is usually broken solder joints of the relay to the circuit board. Sometimes the connector on the back is melted due to the high current of the fan, in my car it became so hot the connector on the VEM soldered itself loose! Bulbs are T5 1.2W
Ze moeten met 140 Nm worden vastgedraaid. Ik draai ze los met de slagmoersleutel op 400 Nm. Ik zet ze vast op 150 Nm en daarna met de momentsleutel natrekken op 140 (want die 150 klopt geen zak van)
Tussen 1994 en 1998 had je ook nog Martin Dawes, later Cellway, die is halverwege 1998 (ruim voor deze uitzending) door Debitel overgenomen. Er moet volgens mij nog een service provider c.q. doorverkoper van belminuten zijn geweest maar dat kan ik me niet meer zo snel herinneren.
I had a terrible crash in a Volvo 480 in around 1996 or 97. I was turning left at a junction where it was not allowed to overtake me but it was OK to turn. There was a longer line of cars behind me who slowed down as I prepared for my turn and I didn't recognize that a big Mercedes is overtaking the convoy with a speed of around 90-100 km/h. When I turned left the guy hit my door without braking - I didn't see anything coming until it happened. My luck was that the road was frozen and slippery and the tires didn't have a good lateral grip so my car could fly away sideways and there was a big grass field by the roadside, so we didn't overturn, the car was only spinning a couple of times but it stayed on its wheels. The door completely bent inwards but the latch kept the door attached to the B-pillar - and the door moved to where the middle of my seat was before. Luckily my seat moved also to the right so after the crash I was sitting almost there where the gearbox was. My seat went down to an almost horisontal level. The scene looked horrible from the outside, people ran there thinking that I was dead. The car had no airbags - it was a 1989 model. But I got out of the car completely unscatched... which seemed unbelieveable. The side protection system worked perfectly, the thick tubes in the doors were visible after the crash and later at the Volvo service (where the guys were shocked to see me walking in the next day after seeing my wrecked car on their yard) they explained me that there were some lateral reinforcements in the bottom of the car which were attached to a longitudinal structure in the middle and when the side impact happened then this system kind of "pulled" my seat to the right, so outwards of the impact zone, away from the door. It was a crazy experience but I was lucky and eternally thankful to the designers of this beautiful car. Once I'd like to own the same car again but many years down the road when I had the means to buy a hobby car I didn't find a nice enough example that would be worth keeping for a very long time.
@@Iv40 Also I remember that after the crash everyone was surprised how the door latch could keep the door in place (preventing it from braking inwards and hurting me) and bent the B-pillar instead. I compared the latch of the 480 of my mother's Mitsubishi Colt of the same year and it was made of at least 2-2.5 times thicker metal block and the whole door was about twice heavier than the Colt's.
Thank you for this side-by-side comparison! I realize these are 5x7", but I have been looking for some 4x6" for my late-70s car and Hellas have become hard to find and ran across Autopal. Now I know to avoid them!
Yes you should avoid them at all cost. 5x7" fits my 1980s car and Hella is still available new so I'm not going to bother with this cheap imitation. I got a full refund from the seller on eBay and didn't have to return them, which was nice.
Hiervoor draaide ik de wielbouten met de hand los dus heb geen vergelijk 😅 Alleen bij een auto waar ze met een luchtsleutel echt kneitervast waren gedraaid kreeg ik ze niet los, de rest wel. Ding bevalt in combinatie met een 4Ah accu prima.
There was once someone who tried to kill himself in a Volvo. He got utterly disappointed and the Volvo crushed his heart by refusing to serve its purpose of a safe crash-car. Pretty stupid, hu?
Probably the most memorable car I’ve owned. Great fun and surprisingly quick. I recall that it was possible to have 8 lights on at the front if needed: daytime runners; pop-ups, extra high beam lamps (next to the daytime runners) and fog lights - everyone could see me coming!
Het onderblok is gelijk aan de Renault F3R, maar de cilinderkop is uniek voor Volvo en uiteraard houdt Volvo uit marketingoverwegingen zijn eigen nomenclatuur aan. 😉
...typical. First you have to fetch last years tools from the seats!😆 Is that footwell light original? My MY 87 doesn't have that. Atleast mine has that green bulb light on the dashboard first time in many many years, thanks to you!
