OK, I'm VERY impressed. My footage was from an old Canon 70D and I had an overhead LED light that kicked on and off more than a couple of times during filming (replacing those lights since they are 7-10 years old, already replaced the camera.) It took a long time for the process to run, but the footage looks 20 times better than it did raw. WELL worth the price of admission.
Just bought it and trying it out now. My video is at 60 FPS so I'm trying it at that setting. The flashing mini screen as it does each keyframe is irritating, and the process takes a long time, but I expect the end result to be well worth the wait based on what I saw in your demo. Wish it would also adjust contrast at the same time on washed out frames, but that is probably a lot to ask of it. I'll post another comment on the output when it is all completed. In the future I might try using a setting that will put a keyframe in ever 2 seconds. That should cut processing time in half without noticeably affecting video quality.
Regarding the 6nm vs 12nm filters: Sony has a Bright Monitoring feature, which takes 1-second exposures in Live-view, allowing you to see stars for focusing. I believe this feature will work with 6nm filters, and I'm considering buying one. Additionally, you can use an old technique that all cameras have - just take a shot at the highest ISO, check the result, adjust the focus, and take another shot and so on, until sharp stars :)
I have this filter (regular one, not Max-FR), and I am using it with an H-alpha modified Sony A7 III. I find it very difficult to separate the H-alpha signal from other light. For example, the entire Milky Way core is much brighter than SH2-27. I have to use brushes in Adobe Photoshop to paint off the non-H-alpha signal. Kamil, do you know a better technique other than using brushes?
There is only one rule, not 2 rules. Start with 1 and take its square root. Double 1 and take its square root, double double 1 and take its square root, double double double 1 and take its square root and so on. Square root of 1 = 1: square root of 2 = 1.4; square root of 4 = 2; square root of 8 = 2.8; square root of 16 = 4; square root of 32 = 5.6; square root of 64 = 8; square rooot of 128 = 11; square root of 256 = 16; and so on. You don't need to start at 1, you can go below 1 by halfing - the square root of 0.5 = 0.7; square root of of 0.25 = 0.5 ... etc
Pro tip is: just do a barely polar alignment. Then use the drift method for a real alignment. You can shoot during hours without any trailing if you master this last one.
idk, someone say they sell a function whose origin should be inside of Pr itself separately, if you think im just complaining because its not expensive then buy me pls, thank you
Great explanation overall but looked scary until 8th minute. Double the aperture area - double the amount of light (and therefore achieve 1 stop difference), great. Now, to double the area of the circle you must widen the circle by sqrt(2) which is 1.414213 and that's all we need to know. So you take 1 and keep multiplying it by sqrt(2) and you get your f-stops: 1.4142135623730951, 2.0000000000000000, 2.8284271247461907, 4.000000000000000, 5.6568542494923815, 8.000000000000000, 11.313708498984763, 16.000000000000000, 22.627416997969526, We don't have 5.6, we have 5.6568etc and we don't have 11 or even 11.2 we have 11.31370etc I went a bit further and calculated half-stops. Just needed to add another square root: sqrt(sqrt(2)) or 2^(1/4) and that's 1.1892071 Rounded to keep it short: 1.189, 1.414, 1.682, 2, 2.378, 2.828, 3.364, 4, 4.757, 5.657, 6.727, 8, 9.514, 11.314, 13.454, 16, 19.027, 22.627 Want even more fractional stops? Get your multiplier as 2^(step/2). For step = 1/3, it would be 1.122462048309373. For the spreadsheet program cell formula is =POWER(2, (1/3)/2) Resulting sequence of 1/3 fstops: 1.122, 1.26, 1.414, 1.587, 1.782, 2, 2.245, 2.52, 2.828, 3.175, 3.564, 4, 4.49, 5.04, 5.657, 6.35, 7.127, 8, 8.98, 10.079, 11.314, 12.699, 14.254, 16, 17.959, 20.159, 22.627
Good morning! I have created a device that enables me to accurately find any DSO within a minute. If you are interested I can send you a photo of it. As I am new to this and have no followers and you have a wide audience perhaps you can share it with them. It's easy and inexpensive to construct. I have trialled it and it works perfectly every time, even if it's full moon. Let me know how I can send you an image if you are interested.
I tried to rotate the clock on my Skywatcher to match with your video and it seems to be working, there was about 5.5 ticks difference between mine and yours. Thanks for the very helpful video.
Further to my question, should the clutch be completely disengaged or partially dragging? If fully free-wheeling physics surely dictate that it will find its balance when horizontal or am i mad?
Good morning, if my camera is rotated down to say 6 O clock as the sky watcher rotates won't it be rotating against the movement of the stars as it turns through 360? Does this make sense?
Think of it as if the mount suspends your camera in space disconnected from the rotating earth. Now wherever you point the camera and however you frame your shot it will just stay that way no matter what the earth does
Well I am too dopey to understand how but I accept the explanation! I have just purchased one so trying to get a handle on the science behind it. I am a BMW technician so try to understand what makes things work. Thanks for your help and time! Have a great weekend!
i have a full spectrum dslr, that i used a clip in uvir filter to stop star bloaing etc, can i just replace that with the l enhanced and wont have any issue?
Hi Kamil, I need help. I just bought Light Equalizer plugin for Premiere Pro and using the plugin I have this error: TypeError: undefined is not an object. I appreciate your help. Thanks!
I have just about every optolong filter for OSC and MONO imaging. I got the optolong 3nm SHO set and the OIII filter gives me BAD star halos. I asked to exchange it, but even though they give you a 3-year warranty, it's utterly worthless as they only give you 14 days to return the product for issues like the fact that you got a BAD production unit. I guess defects in manufacturing aren't covered. So, what the hell is? I'm done with Optolong now, if they are really going to be THAT scummy with their product and customers. ESPECIALLY when I've dropped a few thousand dollars on their stuff!
Have you wver the tried the STC Duo Narrowband clip-in filter? I womder how it compares against the Astronomik filters, but I cant find much information about it online unfortunately. Would be interesting to know how they perform with wide focal lengths and fast apertures
@@kamilkp Awsome thank you! You don't sound very impressed about the filter though. I just ordered the 2" Svbony SV220 instead. Apparently it's supposed to be as good as the Optolong L-Extreme just for half the price. I read that some people use the L-Extreme as a front filter with step down rings on the Samyang 135mm f/2 lens. That's what I'm going to try with the Svbony SV220. The filter should reduce the aperture to about f/3.1, since the glas has a diameter of 44mm. Fingers crossed🤞
When I apply the lens correction to 16mm, I see that the LR does a crop but I don't see how much in mm. If I apply lens correction to 16mm does the image become 24mm or smaller?
I just purchased one and I have to say that your 19 minute video made things much more clear. This video is now officially bookmarked on my computer...Thank you too much
Try as I might I am getting crashed kstars every time. After multiple attempts I still am unable to connect. Using Skywatcher 300 Dob goto. Totally stuck. When I click on the go icon in EKOS I get told Indi is running and nothing happens. In setup I select Skywatcher Synscan. I downloaded the drivers. I added a Nikon DSLR to my profile to allow me to proceed. Any advice? Thanks FYI I am using MacBook M1 Air with Sonoma 14.5
This is absolutely great and thanks for the video! But I don’t get how adobe doesn’t implement this feature themselves… just tracking to transform. Basically every other editing software has it. How would I always switch between After Effects and Premiere Pro and always export, import, …
so no premiere pro doesn't have a function like this and it also doesn't work for a good amount of cameras next time just promote your extension man as a customer this type of marketing is really annoying and kinda misleading
I have tried on my Sony but the rating only works on bridge not Lightroom, is there an option I might be missing. I want to import only the ones I have rated using Lightroom. thanks
