I have watched several of you videos because I am running a 2016 LT50 with a 47 Yanmar diesel from an LT35 HD. Not nearly as many folks run the LT50. I bought it with 650hrs and have put about 100hrs on it over the past few months. Love the mill. Me and my son run a portable sawmill business and had one log left on a two day job this past Friday and we started getting an Error code "current" when trying to raise the mill head. The head lowers fine and will occasionally go up. If you go down then quickly try to go up it sometimes will go up fine. But if you are at a dead stop it will throw the code 9 times out of 10. I know very little about electric motors but obviously when I try to go up it is drawing too much and causing the code. I made sure the pads on the mast were adjusted properly and nothing seems to be in a bind. Any insight? Can I rebuild the motor, should buy a new one ($1,000 from Woodmizer)? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Jason, Hwy 90 Sawmill, Loxley, AL
I believe I would clean the contact on the rotary switch first then check it. Let me know if that helps. Don’t go spending money until you know what’s going on.
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 thanks for responding. I cleaned all of the drum switches and but dielectric grease on them test but it didn’t help. If I just bump the switch up it will raise about 1/16 and not throw the code. But if I just hold the switch it starts to turn then kicks out. Seems to be drawing too many amps, makes me think it’s something in the motor.
things going on, your song, is the first song on, the first side, of the first LYNYRD SKYNYRD album, name of pronounced( lenerd skinerd) love that song
So i built mine with square logs, and just screwed them flat , no chink, beside a layer of liquid nails. whats the advantage if any for the chink material vs log to log
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 as far as you is Festool the only manufacturer of that sculpting head? I have a Bosch planer and can’t find anything similar to fit it.
@@oldbluffsawmill5235I already have a complete 3 phase unit . Just trying to see how folks delt with hose. Ran mill for first time in barn last night. One log pretty well trashed a 12x25 area lol
I just saw your post, sorry about that. Yes I have blocks at all openings and at 3’ intervals with log screws at each block. I also installed angle iron at all openings to straighten the logs and to give them vertical stability. This also allows the logs to slip up and down over time if there’s any settling. All of this makes a strong and stable structure but still allows for settling.
The flat plate on top is an excellent idea what about the 3 digging teeth below? Do they mark up the wood at all? It seems the weight of the log rests on them.
Did you dry your roof decking or was it green when installed? I'm thinking of doing the same with regular boards vs t&g on my cabin, but I'm curious how those joints may separate or move around over time. Keep up the good work!
They sat up for 3 months but got rained on several times. I wouldn’t worry about it because you can mail them up to the finish rafters. It’s really worked out well. I’m about to do another video on it. Thanks for watching
we are thinking of building a square cut log cabin, sawing our logs on our LT 35, and stacking on basic square notches. really interested in your experience
Молодец! Очень здорово придумал! Умница! По моему, кроме тебя никто до такого не догадался! Таоя обработка бревна напоминает русскую обтеску бревен. У нас их обтесывают особым топором, у которого лезвие имеет толщину приблизительно 8 мм, поэтому оно не врезается глубоко, а выхватывает из бруса небольшие щепки, похожие на линзу. Тем самым поверхность становится гладкой и плотной, такие брусья очень долго сохраняются, 200- 300 лет.
Just came across your video of how to make dovetail jigs and loved your explanation, so I checked out your cabin build and was blown away at how nice the cabin is looking, I became a instant fan. The cabin is beautiful, great work sir!
