Hi I'm Paul a a longtime woodworker. I'm 75 and anxious to share the things I do well in woodworking. To my friends I'm called the FINISH GUY. My woodworking friends call me when they have wood finishing issues. In my early twenties I was fortunate to find my mentor. A kindly old gentleman (probably younger than I am now) who was a master craftsman doing virtually all phases of custom woodworking by hand without power tools!
It's my turn to give back. If you have wood finishing concerns please feel free to ask questions on my RU-vid Channel. I typically respond daily, early mornings (with my regular coffee) and late evenings (with my decaf).
If you want more detailed guidance I do offer flat fee personal online and phone consulting. Here I guide you through the entire refinishing process from start to finish (bad pun, sorry).
Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions : I’m an artist (a painter) and have about 1000 brushes. I’ve actually never seen brushes like you’re using in any of the art shops here. But you’re correct. Buy expensive shoes that look good for about a minute and work with the cheapest crap they can find. I’ve no patience for tools that can’t do the job right whether it be in my art studio, kitchen, furniture workshop or sewing room. Flimsy equipment is a waste of money. But then I wash out and reuse sandwich bags. We all have our own little economies, I guess. Thanks for the response and I am looking up St. Louis At Supply right now. Best wishes.
I had a couple of gouges on the surface of my kitchen table ( knotty pine wood) I decided to sand them out which worked fine but now I have discoloration. How do you recommend I correct this? Do I first sand the whole tabletop to remove old poly? Do I stain just the discolored areas to match the rest of the table? Will multiple layers of tinted poly correct this problem? Please help!
Thick brushes hold much more materials, Let the gravity releases the paint, not muscle power to force the paints out. Go back the 2nd stroke for feather stroke. Use a lid sealed container for paint, for the works in the following day. Animal hair brushes for oil based paints Synthetic hair brushes for water based paints Hair does come off during painting
I just store my tshirt rag in the covered container with the thinned poly and use it repeatedly until I have my desired number of Poly coats. I saturate my rag in the poly and squeeze out the access. I use a larger rag and my entire hand to feel the contours of the spindle as if I’m washing it. Never any drips or issues, I re coat within hours! I also have used the wipe on rag method on large flat surfaces sometimes after laying my first coat with a brush but not always. This method is so fast, I can coat a piece nearly as fast as spraying it on. So easy and fool proof for me!
Hey Linda. I always say there are multiple ways to get from point A to point B. If it works for you and you can't improve results, why change? best . . . paul
My best Polyurethane (thinned with mineral spirits) finish on furniture is achieved by wiping the finish on with a T-shirt rag, it’s no fail for me. I have struggled using brushes and cleaning the brush is a pain, would rather throw it out.
Hey Linda. That works. I also have wipe-on video. "When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - Refinishing Furniture". It's especially good for spindly surfaces. best . . . paul
Het Ragcell. Yeah but if you're going to spray why not use lacquer, not polyurethane. Lacquer dries within seconds, can be recaoted almosr immediately and does not require sanding between coats. Polyurethane can take hours to dry, should be sanded between coats and you need to clean equioment between coats. Best . . . paul
Thank you sir, for helping me to properly finish my kitchen table. 4 coats seemed a bit excessive at first but considering that a group of us play cards and dominoes regularly it wound up being the best protection.😊
Hey Tod. Yes. However make sure you go overboard with the sanding dust removal. 600 creates a VERY fine sanding dust and can clog the wood's pores which will hinder absorption. I would use an air compressor at close range to remove as much as possible. I usually stop at 300-400 grit when oiling. BE SURE to thin the oil for the initial coats as this too will help penetration. best . . . paul
Hello, you’re saying don’t throw the rags in the garbage in the Woodworking shop but throw them in the garbage outside because they spontaneously combust that’s bad information. I watched another video where the guy to lay the rags out on the floor and let them dry and then throw them away, that’s better information. Please review.
Hey Haley. The haze is from water vapor. It is not uncommon with water based polyurethane, odorless mineral spirits and wet wood. Most of the time the haze will disappear as the polyurethane cures. It can take a coule weeks to cure. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, I've made a 3d, non-objective, exotic hardwood sculpture. I glued and clamped Teak, Paduk, Purple Heart, Cocobola, and Zebra wood together. I chiseled and rasped the combined woods into an attractive shape. I sanded the woods with 40, 100, 120, 150, 220, and 600 grit sandpaper, all by hand. MY QUESTION: Can I now apply Tung oil to my sculpture, or do I need to go back to a coarser grit sanding first? (Following your application instructions, which I've just been intruduced to.) Your tutorials are helpful...you're "the man." Thank you. Tod
Sounds nice. The problem with getting too too fine of a grit is very fine sanding dust tyends to clog the wood's pores hindering absorption of the oils. I don't think you haver to step down at this point. But use a strong vacuum or an air compressor at a high pressure and try to get as mush of the dust removed. Be sure to apply the first couple coats at 70:30 thin ration (70% mineral spirits or paint thinner to 30% oil). This will help get the oil into the pores. best . . . paul
SOOO many wood refinishing vids out there. I've discovered the hard way some helped, and others have messed me up. Glad I bumped into yours, Paul! After 7 coats of Minwax water-based "oil modified" poly, I still have brush marks using Purdy nylon brush and biggest issues are puddling where my brush strokes overlapped and areas that still look relatively dry. I didn't know about sanding sealer when I started, so I suspect the dry looking areas are from some more porous wood pieces on the butcher block kitchen table. I seem to have fixed some of those spots by smooshing extra poly into them on previous coats. Should I just do that again, sand out the overlap puddles to make them even with the rest of the surface, then apply another coat using your correct thinning and brushing method? Hoping that makes sense. Thanks in advance!
Hey J. How to correct and faulty finish is not up my alley, sorry. I would strip it and start over. There are a few possibilities as to "why" the finish is faulty. The three main reasons are the poly was put down too thick, the poly wasn't thinned properly and a bad brush. Let's start with the brush. A good brush holds a lot of material, releases it slowly and evenly (even in vertical applications), won't drip, leave puddles or run. Finally polyurethane should be thinned 3:1 and applioed in very thin coats. I cover all this in my video "How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated" (link below). Sorry, but it's really difficult to try to correct a faulty finish. best . . . paul
Thanks for the quick reply, Paul!! Starting over crossed my mind, but thankfully, the problems are minor enough as to only be noticeable to us. I suspect the biggest problems are that a few of the wood pieces are quite porous, and I did not know to use sanding sealer on them; and the coats are too thick since I did not know to dilute the poly early on. Even after asking Minwax, they told me to not dilute more than 10%. If I decide to go for one more fix, I will do the smashing and sanding I mentioned, then dilute 3:1 and use your brushing techniques. I will also go to Sherwin-Williams instead of Home Depot to make sure I get good advice on a good brush for this. Thanks again, Paul!
@@paulsDIYsolutions Any specific brush recommendations? I've been using this Wooster nylon "wall & trim" one on the previous coats, but it doesn't seem to hold a lot of poly. Maybe that's cuz I'm only diluting 10% as Minwax said. www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-3-in-Pro-Nylon-Flat-Brush-0H21280030/203433140
What's your question? I'm guessing it's you think it's too long for using this technique.?! I've used my techique on 12 foot runs. You need a good brush that holds a lot of material, releases it slowly and evenly, and doesn't leave brush marks.
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I sanded off our poly attempts 6 times then we watched your video and viola! It is PERFECT after watching your video!
Hi Paul, I wish I would have seen your video before I finished my hardwood coffee table. I finished with too coarse paper (120) and did not thin the oil. I’m not happy with the result. Should I redo it by first sanding with a very rough sandpaper like 80 and then follow your steps? I have put 3 coats at full strength (not diluted) oil.
Hey Herve. Sorry for the delay. I know I responded but I sometimes forget to hit the reply button and all my typing vanishes. What type oil? 80 is a pretty aggressive and used more in the repair phase (see my video "Choosing the Right Sandpaper for Woodworking"). Be sure to allow the oil to cure (dry all-the-way-through). This can take 4-6 weeks depending on temperature and humidity). If it hasn't cured it will just gum up your sandpaper. Video link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cbqg9XflK5w.html best . . . paul
First project applying polyurethane and was terrified. Your video gave me confidence to do it and I am so pleased with the result. I am not the type to let the bubbles sit, so I really had to rein in my impulses….but as you said they would, they disappeared. You are going to be my go to for everything diy now!
Hey Alice. "Lay it down thin and Leave it alone" should be my yoga mantra! Glad you had control and it worked.Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . .paul
Hey Howard. You're not gonna want to hear what I'm about to say. Silicone is a woodworkers nightmare. It not only ruins finishes but it's almost impossible to refinish over. It's really hard to remove silicone because its not absorbed in liquids or pocked up by rags or vacuums, its merely pushed to another spot on the surface. Surface finishes won't stick to it. Probably your best bet is to remove as much of the old finish and the silicone as humanly possible and use an oil to refinish. Oils are not suface finishes they are penetrating finishes so I don't think the silicone will hinder absorption. Hope you find a solution sorry I'm not much help. best . . . paul
Thanks for this. So many titbits of knowledge peppered in along with the core content of the video. Super helpful and educational. I've recently moved into my first house and I've got a lot to learn.
Hey Joe. Congrats on the new home. That's how I learned. Way too expensive to have technicians out all the time. RU-vid will become your best friend. Thanx for watching. best . . . paul
Hey April. Yes. In fact it's better. To make finishes duller in appearance (satin or semi-gloss) manufacturers add silica to the mix. The tiny crystals absorb light which dulls the surface. But too many coats of satin tends to make the surface cloudy rather than duller. I often use gloss polyurethane (no silica) for the initial coats and finish with satin to dull it down. The other thing you can do is use a #0000 steel wool. The minor scratches it leaves behind also absorbs light giving it a satin appearance. I would practice using steel wool on scrap though because it requires a "touch" to get it right. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, I wish I would have seen your video before I finished my hardwood coffee table. I finished with too coarse paper (120) and did not thin the oil. I’m not happy with the result. Should I redo it by first sanding with a very rough sandpaper like 80 and then follow your steps?
Great, straight forward design and spot on explanation. I just cleaned and relubed 8 salt water reels (Penn 113, 114, Baja Special, 330GT2, etc. ) Will be replacing line after I build both devices!
Great video. I worked as a house painter in another lifetime and we followed many of those practices. Do you have any specific brush recommendations for polyurethane?
Hey Beachy. Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul
Love your teaching style and sharing your talent! First found you via the poly best practice video but this one has changed my efficiency overall!! Not constantly having to fix or repair or toss a piece from bad sanding is a GIFT 😅
Thanx again Nikki. Saves a lot of energy and you'll end up with the best surface for the type finish. Glad to be a part of your journey. best . . . paul
This might be a silly comment, but I do nails and your videos on painting/finishing have a lot of parallels. The way the polyurethane gummed up when you sanded reminds me of gel that doesn't "cure" properly. Similar concept with the bubbles created in using gel on nails, you have to "burp" the brush to get the air out, use quality brushes, and apply it in thin coats. And not touching it and moving it around too much, just like a stain, or a paint, it totally screws things up!
Thank you for sharing your video, my problem is that working with high humidity and outdoors. Not having enough polyurethane on the brush, it would smear, what is your suggestion for fixing this?
@@sellersjudkinsjr6756 No easy solution. You use a stripper and start over using proper technique and a good brush is the best way. See video "How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated". ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nxwMmjg4kIY.html
Sir, this was exactly what I was looking for! My oldest son passed away 3 1/2 years ago. I am finally able to emotionally handle a project I’ve had in mind all this time. I’m installing a wood shelf for his temporary headstone, the American flag draped over him when he was on the gurney to be transported away, and a picture of him in uniform. He was a Marine and a Sheriff’s deputy. I wanted nothing but the best results for this shelf and you gave me the information I needed. Thank you.
I am refinishing my grandmas table for my niece and her little ones. I failed with the water-based poly, and now, I'm stripping and sanding again, but....happy mistake because the prep wasn't there to begin with, and I didn't know how to cut the poly with mineralspirits. I find myself wondering what you think is the best finish option for a tabletop that is going to be abused by littles, but also, is where meals are served? Great content, by the way! Thank you for making it!!!
I'm Working on re-finishing my 92 year old grand parents front door. This is a HUGE help Its really important to them to have the house tip top shape (pride of ownership) until they go. Thanks so much!
Hey John. I've never had positive results with polyurethane and heat guns, blow driers or torches. Epoxy yes but polyurethnae no. Thanx for sharing though. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Yeah... the only reason I've used one is because I think I looked it up. Didn't have the patience to wait it out. Also didn't know that I should thin it down. Your video is informative and detailed. 👍👌 Oh. hair dryer popped the bubbles but there was other issues. In a hurry.... mother's day etc. I'm the only one who knew the flaws.
I wish I had found this earlier. I watched two other videos that used wipe on poly and had no idea there was a difference. One guy applied by dumping poly on the tabletop and spreading it out with a foam brush. I just did that for 3 layers with the varathane poly you used in the video. It looks so bad.
Yes, the brush makes a huge difference. I first used a Purdue China Brush and it was not smooth and I had to sand it quite a bit. Then I bought an Ox hair brush and it worked perfectly. My wood project was Oak. I am just not sure what to do after the final application so that it feels really smooth. I can't sand it even with a paper bag because it will change the sheen. Am I correct about this?
LOVE your videos SO much. Thank you! Question: I just bought some unfinished oak cabinets for my mud room. I have an existing 13 year old golden oak factory finished (so not very good…) sink cabinet in there. I’d like them all to match, of course! I’m planning on staining them and putting poly on top, as per your videos. Any of your wise knowledge would be so appreciated. Thank you, Paul!
Hey Chris. Matching is always a challenge. I would suggest you remove the door on the finished cabinet and take to your local big box store. They have manufacturers stain samples. Oak is pretty common so it should be easy. Now the part that requires patience. Stain only the inside of one of you new cabinet doors and then apply a coat or two of your finish over the new stain. Wait til dry and see if it matches. It's tedious but essential to get a match. best . . . paul
@@nikkimalmsbury6417 Thanx Nikki. I have one more video I will be releasing this winter. It is the intro to finishing after which I'm pretty much done. These days I'm just building whimsical birdhousee. My latest woodworking hobby. best . . . paul
Thank you for explaining the process for a top-notch polyurethane application. I have refinished stairs and floors for years, and I still learned a lot from your video. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thanks for the great videos. I have a whole staircase with handrails and treads to sand and oil. The wood is Babinga. I will be sanding it and applying Pure Tung Oil. It's 100% pure tung oil and I wont be adding/diluting it with any spirit/thinners. The wood has visible imperfections because the machine that cut all the wood pieces was old and didn't do a perfect job so the finish has some swirls and tiny holes here n there. Question please, what grit to start on and what grit to end on before I apply the oil? I'm thinking: 100, filler repair, 100, filler repair, 120, oil, 180, oil, 220, oil, 220, oil, 300, oil, 400.
Hey Pandonia. Pure Tung Oil takes awhile to dry depending on temp and humidity. Figure 5-10 days between coats. Polymerized tung oil dries overnight (again depending on temp and humidity). Thinning helps with both penetartion and dry times. I strongly recommend it. Also are you talking wood filler or grain filler? Also I would put down a coat or two and then fill. Oil enhances the wood's fibers (as it does your skin) and the filler may block it. I would sand all the way to 400 grit and then start oiling. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the reply Paul. The filler is goodfilla filler. No sure if this is wood or grain filler. What is the difference? You mentioned to sand upto 400 then oil. But isn't 400 too fine and will reduce the oil penetration? I will only be filling the holes, so will use little filler. As for thinning, I just dont want chemicals. It in a very hot country so dont see the oil taking much time to dry.Thanks again
@@pandonia77 Wood filler is for filling major defects (holes. nail head insets, gouges, etc). Grain filler makes the wood fibers even and surface very smooth. Hot is one thing, low humidity is essential for fast dry times.
