Hey Charlie. Yeah, right? We all want thckness for protection so it seems logical to puddle it on like paint. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul
Thank you Paul! I followed your instructions on a small cutting board and got the best finish I have ever done. We used the cutting board last weekend and each of our kids asked for several versions with your finish. Appreciate all of the info you pack into your videos!
Paul you are amazing. Ive commented on another video of your recently but i had to write again. I have learned so much from you and i am amazed that you are so thourough and fastideous in your resposes to every comments in every video. Thank tou so much
Love the video and seeing your finishing technique. I recently rebuilt my grandmother’s kitchen table. I only saved a few pieces of the original table because it had been shoddily repaired over the years and replaced the skirt around where the legs attached with oak, and routed the table and leaves and installed drop leaf hinges. The legs I found an alternate source of oak that worked extremely well; oak stair treads that are 48”*18” I was able to make two 30”legs that were 8”x1” thick. In between the legs I used the last 18x17” piece to add stability and weight. I dowelled all of the connections and glued everything except the table legs to the skirt. I used stainless steel bolts for that. Her house only had 28” doorways or something (maybe 30) so disassembled was the only way to get it in and out. Everything except the table top and leaves were stained and polyurethane with 4 coats, but the table top and leaves were stained and coated with thinned poly about 30 coats because of the imperfections in the top. It had been damaged, but getting that particular damage sealed in was what she wanted, so it didn’t even get close to smooth until about the 20th coat; I was basically just filling the voids. The final coat was a satin poly that I buffed out afterwards and she loved it. She started eating breakfast at the kitchen table every day after that until she died in January. Now everyone is trying to fight to get the table, so it looks like it is going to auction; I guess we will see how much others value my work now.
Paul, thanks for your educational services. I'm new to woodworking and loving it (I am a retired public health professional). Here's the context: I'm making a buffet from walnut. It's nearly done and I'm in the finishing stage. I'm using polymerized tung oil (Sutherland Welles, low lustre). I'm planning to use 7 coats of the tung oil and a coat of oil-based polyurethane for durability. Here's the question: where in the order of things should the poly go? Many thanks. Keep up the good work! Best wishes, Jonathan
Hey Jonathan. Great question. Your project sounds beautiful. Couple suggestions: First you should finish both top and bottom to seal the wood. Many times people just finish the top and they end up with peeling and cracks do to uneven seasonal wood expansion and contraction. That said finish the bottom first because if there are learning mistakes only your cat will notice. Lastly I would use spar varnish in place of polyurethane it's a softer finish with a richer, non-plasticky appearnace. Be sure the varnish is tung oil basrd (as opposed to urethane based). Sutherland and Lee Valley Tools carry it. Okay on to your real question. Tung Oil is a penetrating finish meaning it soaks into the wood. So it needs to be first or it can be mixed with the varnish out of the gate. You are fine with applying oil first although I personally don't. Just be sure to follow my video on tung oil application using the thinning recommendations (they cahnge with each coat). If stay with tung oil for first coats mix the oil and varnish for at least the last coat or two. As I said use the underside as your test area before starting the top. Walnut is an expensive wood and it'd be a shame IF . . . best . . . paul
Thank you, Paul. I really appreciate your help. I am a professional residential painter and do kitchen cabinets also. But I am very interested in wood finishing and may want to get more involved with it in the future - at least as a hobby. :)
Hey Scott. You're 90% there!! You have the eye, patience and basic knowledge locked in! BTW the video you're commenting on is a great finish. I was taught it at a high end custom furniture/cabinet shop in Chicago. You'll love it. best . . . paul
I've learned quite a bit watching your videos, Paul. Thanks for sharing your experience! This combo finish looks like a game changer for me, I will definitely be mixing some and using it in the future. I also have spent 40+ years in woodworking, and in my "retirement" have been building acoustic guitars. The finish I use is Lacquer, applied by spray. A demanding process. I wanted to mention that the medullary rays are visible only on quarter sawn surfaces. Again thank you for sharing what your years of experience have taught you.
Hey Cheryl. I bought a large piece of live edge walnut. I saw what I thought were mill marks and sanded my buns off. No avail. I later took it to a saw mill and asked them to run it through their commercial planner to remove the marks. Not only did they not disappear I now had all kinds of tear outs from the planner. Relatively upset I asked the the mill worker why and he couldn't answer. He called over his foreman and the foreman said "Oh, those are medullary rays"! I've learned a lot the HARD WAYS. Acoustic guitars that's amazing!! I was corresponding with a gentleman who did violins as well. He said the best finish for musical string instruments was shellac. He did a lot of French Polishing. What are your thoughts? Thanx for watching and commenting. Happy Holidays. best . . . paul
Hey Dennis. There are only a few resources that I've used. Lee Valley Tools and Sutherland Wells (both online). The big box and local paint stores won't have it (I believe). best . . . paul
Hey Jetbug. Yes. You have to apply a clear finish to protect the stain and wood. The only difference to applying over stain vs bare wood is you don't sand after staining and before applying your first coat of finish. Also some of the stain (not much) will be lifted when you apply your first coat. This is normal and it will be just finish. best . . . paul
Paul, I have learned so much from watching your videos. Thank you for your very easy to understand presentations. My husband and I are building a log home that will include wood floors, wood stairs, railings as well as a back deck. The logs and other wood elements will all need finishing. What are your recommendations for each of the elements? Is there any finish that you would recommend for the logs that could be applied with a spray gun for both the interior and the exterior surfaces of the logs? We were thinking about spraying polyurethene but based on watching your video on that topic we would be creating bubbles if I understood the process properly and that it would not be the best finish for the exterior surface of the logs from a waterproof standpoint. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Hi Paul, Great info here as well as your 5 basic types of finish video. Thank you! Question: I am refinishing the outside of the front door of our house. It is a beautiful custom made walnut and steel custom door. It looks like it was originally coated with a spar varnish about 10 years ago. The wood has bleached to a yellowish color over the years from the sun (We live in Arizona at 7,000 feet elevation so we get lots of UV light!). I'm sanding down through the original finish and bleached wood to expose the dark walnut underneath. My question is what finish to apply to block the UV light to keep the walnut from bleaching so fast and still have a natural look? I'm thinking your combo finish might be a great answer - hoping the tung oil will block the UV rays and the spar varnish will add weather resistance. I don't really want to use a dark stain to block the UV because my wife and I love the natural look of dark walnut and don't really want a dark stained look. Thanks for all your help!
Hey Ron. Sounds beautiful. Both are UV resistant finishes. You might do the first coat using only the oil to add lustre to the wood. Then you can do a coat or two as a combo. Once you add spar varnish to the mix the wood will stop soaking up the oil. best . . . paul
Thanks for helping me improve my finishes. I am building some more pastry, or dough boards. Can you suggest any finish to make them pretty without not being food safe. The other ones I made and sold are getting a chance to fully cure until April 30, 2022 so they will be food safe. I wonder if they will be as pretty if I only use Tung Oil and not put on a top coat. Thanks to your messages my work is getting better.
Hey Stanley. Glad to hear that. I think you'll be happy with Tung Oil though. I did a comparison demo in my Clear Wood Finish Choices Video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BsXveKx7kR8.html best . . . paul
What an awesome site filled with great information! Love this 2 part mixture..wondering what you would recommend in the case off an already treated surface? I have projects I did earlier in life with a different method, either shellac followed by a wipe on (oil) poly, or by a brush applied (water) poly. In some of these projects I could probably get it all off, but not on others. My Shellac was a 1 pound cut or less, so I assume it went in deeper, even though I learned from your videos that shellac is not considered a penetrating but rather surface treatment. I did like that I could use different flake mixes (Garnet / Orange / Clear) to have my new wood projects match aged / oil poly projects. Not sure if there is a similar thing that can be done with polymerized tung oil...
Hey Rain. Shellac huh, you don't look that old!! The nice part about shellac is it literally melts when in contact with alcohol (so do I but that's a different kind og alcohol), so removal is somewhat messy but easy. I have a friend who refinishes for a living. He loves shellac repairs. The problem with the other surface coatings (polyurethane, varnish and lacquer) is they are hard to spot repair. best . . . paul
Hi Paul you seem super experienced in woodworking so I couldn't be happier to stumble across your channel. I'm actually building a bar top from a 8ft piece of walnut I believe. It will be in the rain and weather for most the day and I'm looking for the right finish to do the job. Do you have any good recommendations?
Het Junie. The combo finish will work well, actually. Both Spar varnish and Tung Oil are UV resistant and waterproof. The Spar Varnish will add some extra durability to the mix. Maybe go an extra coat (4coats) and or add a little extra spar avrnish to the last coat (60% spar to 40% tung vs 50/50). Let me kiw what time the poarty starts and I'll do a final inspection while sipping a margarita!!. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions oh ok that's great! I thought it would be good from what you were saying in the video. But since I know outside tables can be tricky I thought I would send a comment anyways.
@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul, I'm in a similar situation with outdoor sequoia slab project. I have already treated it with with Seafin Ship N Shore sealer, would that effect any steps in what you described in the video above? Trying to protect the soft wood
I am refinishing my grandmas table for my niece and her little ones. I failed with the water-based poly, and now, I'm stripping and sanding again, but....happy mistake because the prep wasn't there to begin with, and I didn't know how to cut the poly with mineralspirits. I find myself wondering what you think is the best finish option for a tabletop that is going to be abused by littles, but also, is where meals are served? Great content, by the way! Thank you for making it!!!
I am about to stain and finish an old wrought iron and wood garden bench. Would you recommend the spar varnish and tung oil mixture for the wood? I’m in Florida too.
Hey Peter. It really depends on the quality of finish you want. My combo finish certainly will do well as both Spar varnish and Tung Oil are UV resistant and waterproof. Oil penetrates into the wood where varnish sits on top so it's a nice duo. Most people would think of it as overkill for outdoor furniture. You can use either as a stand alone or combine for the best of bith worlds. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks. I think with the rain, heat and humidity probably a combo would be beneficial. I bought it at an estate sale and it’s in pretty good shape, it just needs some good sanding and finishing. Thanks for your help.
Paul, this channel is fantastic. There's so much information with none of the waffle you can get from some other channels. I'm still working my way through all your videos, so apologies if this is answered elsewhere, but what do you think about mixing pure tung oil with poly (and some solvent) for something like a dining table? I've seen it mentioned quite a bit, but opinions seem to differ on how durable it is. Most of the stuff I've seen on it recommends mixing them 1:1:1, if that's important. I'm very much a newbie, so I'm relying entirely on RU-vid and forums at this point.
Hey Shonky. You can as long as the urethane is oil based. There are a lot of pre-made combo finishes that are just that. That said, varnish has a less plasticky look, is warmer in tone and softer feel. best . . . paul
Paul thank you for your help! I know you have mentioned that you do not check your emails very often. I sent you an email with updated pictures of the project I am working on using your advice. Thank you so much. Please read your email!😃
As I recall, you mixed your combo finish with four measures of polymerized tung oil and four measures of tung oil based spar varnish - so equal measurements of each. But several times (such as at the end of the video) you say that it’s mostly tung oil with a little bit of spar varnish. Is this true because the varnish is tung oil based, thus resulting in more oil than varnish despite 1:1 ratio? I was actually thinking you would change the ratio for each coat by increasing the amount of oil. Thanks so much for sharing your invaluable knowledge.
Hey Barstad. Good questions! So tung oil is a penetrating finish meaning it soaks into the wood's pores. After a few coats tung oil tends to build in thickness rather than soaking in. Varnish is a surface finish which means it lays on top of the wood gripping onto the wood's fibers. Tung oil based varnish uses tung oil as a liquifier so there is tung oil already in the varnish. To bring out the lustre that only tung can deliver we add morte tung oil. So the first coat tends to saturate into the wood carrying some varnish with it into the pores. After the first coat though the varnish seals the wood thus further absorption is minimal, if at all. Thinning the solution wouldn't help so we don't. Hope that helps. best . . . paul
Have a question Paul. Working on a dining room table. Stripped, cleaned, stained with mimwax oil based stain and then used tack cloth. Then put first coat of mimwax oil based poly on top. Used your brush technique and did 3 parts poly and one part mineral spirits. When it dried it looks all wavy and in spots even looks like drops of poly have been left on it to dry though that was definitely not the case. I was very careful and did three lines across at a time and then feathered out. I tried to sand carefully with paper bag and 400 grit sand paper to get rid of the waviness but when I put on second coat you can still see it all. Suggestions?
Hi Jessica. I can answer basic qusetions but without seeing it or knowing the type wood or a history of the table (refinish or new) and if a refinish what products were used (many polishes have silicone addititive). I'm just taking shots in the dark. Sorry wish I could be of more help. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. I’m refinishing a redwood shower surround (wouldn’t have been my first choice, but it’s come with the house) The redwood is actually in solid condition, no splits or cracks. Just a little too much soap buildup from 50 years. I believe it was originally treated with a polyurethane. I’ve removed that using 120 grit. And plan to do another sand at 200, and then reseal it. Given that it’s a wet environment would you recommend using a Spar Varnish or Your Tung Oil / Spar Varnish Combo? I like the idea of not having to re-strip the entire surround if I need to do future repairs. Thanks for your insight.
Hey Brian. I don't think it matters because in a shower you are going to get mineral and soap scum buildup. Both of those will have to be removed before you can reapply any coating in the future. Original spar varnish was a pheno;l resin suspended in tung oil and a carrier like paint thinner. It was used to coat wooden boats so it's tough stuff. The advantage to the combo finish is fewer coats (tung oil should be 5-6) and shorter dry times between applications. best . . . paul
Dear Sir, I have a Bruce Engineered Hardwood floor. Recently, workers used blue tape to tape down kraft paper to protect the floor while they worked. When they pulled the tape up, the finish came up with it in many spots. Do you have recommendations on how to fix this?
Het Grr. You can find both polymerized tung oil and tung oil based spar varnish at Sutherland Wells ( a little pricey) or you can get polymerized tung oil at Lee Valley Tools and for the tung oil based spar varnish check online for Epifanes or Total Boat. best . . . paul
Hello Paul; TYVM for sharing your knowledge and techniques! Your videos are inspirational and very informative. What is your suggestion on finish for the wooden parts (e.g., handles and knobs) of hand tools, please? Slowly acquiring older neglected quality tools (e.g., hammers, screw drivers, drills, planes, saws, shovels and hatchets), restoring and using them for everyday repairing and building projects. What are your thoughts on some videos on the wood finishing material and technics for hand tools??? The good: Your technics have helped me complete 6 projects better than I imagined. The other: My wife is walking around our home with a notebook listing wood finishing/refinishing honey-do projects.
Sorry I didn't mean for my information to leak out to spouses. Very dangerous situation. Some of my friends are gone through a few wives because of it. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. Thank you for your clear instructive videos. Question, I live in Alaska and have difficulty getting polymerized tung oil shipped to me for your custom mixture. Would mixing pure tung oil and something like Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish be a viable alternative?
Hey Brad. I've never used Old Masters but looking at it's specs, it's already an oil/varnish mix. The problem is I never know what type varnish and what their ratio of oil to varnish they use. Also they use driers to speed dry times so it's an unknown formula. Nest, the problem with pure tung oil is dry time. All oils are penetrating finishes and unless you have a LOT of time Pure tung oil can take days to weeks to dry enough between coats for the wood to be ready to absorb more oil. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, loving all your videos thank you for the time and effort you put into them. I recently stripped/sanded a vintage built in oak cabinet from the 70’s and restained it to a darker walnut color. I’m trying to do your combo finish and having trouble finding the right products due to all the options on sutherland’s website. Can you please confirm which ones I should get? Do I want basically any of the “Interior polymerized tung oils, low/medium/ high lustre” or is it the “interior polymerized tung oil Sealer” that I should get to mix with their “Exterior marine spar varnish”? Thank you in advance!
Hey Elizabeth. I assume you want a nice low gloss (non-shinny) finish. I would order these from Sutherland: Interior Polymerized Tung Oil Low Lustre and Exterior Marine Spar Varnish. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you Paul I appreciate the quick response. Yes I would like it to be somewhat of a satin finish, so low lustre it is. Also, because it’s a large standing built in cabinet I have to apply the top coat vertically. Do you think this combo top coat is better/easier to apply rather than a poly top coat in regard to risk of dripping?
Hi Paul, hope you don't mind me asking a silly question I am just starting out doing woodwork and am struggling to get good finishes. A couple of your postings are excellent, however from Botswana, Southern Africa we cant get some of the products ie Tung oil (raw or processed). Please can you make any recommendations for alternate oils for very hard wood - table tops (lead wood). Many thanks Neil Botswana
Hey Neil. I get a few of these from different people around the world. I speak as a spoiled American who has access to many products. AS far as oils there are 2 hardening oils which work well as a wood finish they are tung and linseed. All other oils are soft and have the need to be recoated frequently. Linseed oil comes from flax and I believe it is grown in southern Africa. Let me know if this is available to you and we can talk further. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you, Paul, it's just that when I'm interested in a topic, I try to watch all the videos of the channel, because there may be something new and useful in each of them. I am familiar with your methods, I use a little different in my work. It's strange that many people just don't want to take it and repeat it to avoid mistakes, and then ask questions why it doesn't work))) Sincerely, Andrey.
I found your videos today and I am currently binge watching! I am about to begin a dining table that is raw rubberwood (I have not worked with that wood type before) and I have a couple of questions. Do you recommend a pre-stain conditioner on rubberwood? What grit should I sand to before applying stain? Finally, you say that your combo finish is the best, but you also say to use polyurethane on dining tables. I like the ease of your combo finish, but do I stick with polyurethane for a dining table?
Hey Sarah. I'm sorry but I have never worked with rubberwood. However if this were my project here's waht I would do: I would experiemnt on the bottom side of your table. I would it a part of the underside without a conditioner to see how it accepts stain. If the stain appears uneven I would then purchase the conditioner and try it right nest to the unconditioned side. I don't remember saying I wouldn't use the combo finish on a table (poly would be best for a kitchen table with a couple teenagers (nature's most destruction force) living at home. I think it will be just fine. best . . .paul
Hi Paul! Greetings from Canada. I have a question. I am wanting to stain a serving tray in a white wash. Then painting a decorative stencil overtop. I am overwhelmed with finishing choices that will maintain the integrity of the whitewash. Any suggestions?
Hey Paul, So glad I found you and this video. I have stained a very old pine door for my bathroom with Minwax special Walnut penetrating stain and it came out beautiful. Only because I watched your video on how to stain pine. I love your comb finish in this video and I want to do this. My question is do I need to sand the stain before the first coat of the finish. I can see where you would need to sand wood but I needed to check with you about it having stain on it.
Hey Judy. No I wouldn't you'll knock down some the stain. Apply your first coat of oil/varnish combo and then when dry very, very , very lightly sand before each of the next coats. Do not sand after last coat. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, I have been making a bunkbed out of red oak and have an oil based stain already on the wood. Can I put your combo finish on top of that Varithane Oil Stain?
With your combo finish, can you use 100% PURE Tung Oil and the Spar Varnish? Or do you HAVE to use the Polymerized Tung Oil. If you can use the 100% Pure Tung Oil, the ratio is still the 50/50, correct? But it just takes longer to dry?
Het C. Yes exactly. Dry times between coats can be weeks deppending on temp and humidity. Lee Valley Tools carries both Polymerized Tung Oil and Tung Oil based spar varnish. best . . . paul
Hey Hudson. That depends. Most woods will end up with grain raise (fuzzy wood, analogus to split ends after shampooing your hair). This typically happens after the first liquid is applied (any liquid). If the stain is the first liquid then yes you have to remove the fuzzies to get the best finish. The problem is sanding after staining removes much of the stain. So you have to restain. The solution is to spritz the wood with water to get it damp before staining. Then you let dry, sand with a 180 grit followed by the stain. Fuzzies typically don't appear after the first wetting. In this case you wouldn't sand before your fisrt coat of clear wood finish (varnish, shellac, polyurethane, lacquer, or any oil). Hope that helps. best . . . paul
I want to use your "Paul's Combo" finish. I can find Polymerize Tung Oil that the vendor will ship to CA. However, the same vendor will not ship Polymerized Spar Varnish to CA. Doesn't make sense to me, but that's the case. Will it be OK for me to use a combination of the Polymerized tung oil and regular spar varnish? Would marine spar varnish be a better choice? Your opinion will be much appreciated
Hey Ron. Just for clarification on my part. Only the Tung Oil is polymerized. The spar varnish isn't but be sure to use tung oil based spar varnish not urethnae based spar varnish. best . . . paul
Paul, thanks for sharing your immense experience & expertise freely with us! I am wondering if your combination finish can be used and would hold up on my villa's new teak main door... It receives a bit of the morning sun and usually no direct rain (faces slight spray or light splashes, and temperature variation across the year). Also, I'm unable to find polymerised tung oil; will this combo work with the regular tung oil if I wait enough between coats? Would be super happy if you could guide :) Thanks, again!
Hey R. It will work just fine. Both spar avrnish and tung oil are UV resistant and waterproof. It will work with non-polymerized tung oil but could take weeks to complete. Check out Lee Valley Tools online for both polymerized tung oil and tung oil based spar varnish. best . . . . paul
Hey Paul, I’m removing some white water marks from a lacquered kitchen table, with Mowhawk’s “No Blush Plus Retarder” , after this can I apply Cetol Marine Gloss over the existing finish to prevent future problems with trapped moisture. Thank you
Hey Pride. It's best. It dries to touch in a few hours but is not really sandable. Allowing an overnight dry allows you to see,touch and feel any dust nibs that tend to settle on your finish as well as tiny bubbles. That way you can get rid of any minor imperfections with a light sanding. best . . . paul
Hey User. I would say yes but that's an educated guess as I have never attempted it. Varnish is a surface coating whereas tung oil is a penetrating finish. Be sure to use a tung oil bases spar varnish. Check Sutherland Wells or Lee Valley Tools I know they carry it. best . . . paul
Hey Dave. Shellac is seldom used as a top coat finish these days. It is not waterproof (hot water will leave rings) and it will dissolve (melt) with alcohol. Shellac is used today as a sealer (undercoating) on certain woods and in certain circumstances. It is also used on acoustic string instruments to preserve tonal sound quality. I haven't used it as a top coat in 30 years. best . . . paul
Excellent video! Thank you for making and sharing. I would like to try your combo finish but am not sure how to find spar varnish that is tung oil based. Do you have a source or know which brands are tung oil based? Thank you. I’m bing watching the rest of your videos now.
Hey Jim. Yopu have to read the labels. Best to research online and then shop. Most were tung oil based a few went cheaper. Man-O-War, Epifanes are a few of the brands I've used. Thanx for your feedback and watching Jim. best . . . paul
Paul--I am about to start a project to build a coffee table on our patio. Obviously, will be an outdoor project. I want to use your Paul's Combo finish, but I don't think that is enough to protect the table from the sun, rain, etc. Would you recommend polyurethane as the top coat of this finish? Thanks.
Hey Ron. No don't. Tung oil is UV ray prrof, Waterproof and weatherproof. Spar varnish is also called Marine Varnish and has been used to protect wooden boats since boats began sailing. It's also UV proof, waterproof and weather proof. If your project turns out really nice it's worth the extra effort and cost. If your project turns out pretty nice spar varnish might be the way to go. If your project turns out crappy exterior rated polyurethane wouild be okay. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks, Paul. I love your combo finish and was hoping it would be enough for an outside project. Glad to hear that you agree. I'm in San Diego, so the sun is a bigger issue than the rain. Thanks for all of the good advice.
Hi Paul, you recommended I use this finish on my wood vanity and I have to say it’s fantastic! Now I am wondering if you would recommend it for fir plank flooring (not prefinished)? My concern about a polyurethane finish is that the floors have some bounce due to the span of the joists and thinking the poly may crack over time?
Hey Danny. Glad to hear. There are a couple issues with the floor. My trchnique is a little tedious and is desigened for furniture finsihing (it's time comsuming). Floor guys either mop it on or squeegee it on. Floor polyurethane would still be a good choice as there is some flexibility in it (allows for seasonal expansion and contraction). Unless your floor bounces like a trampoline you should be fine. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. I've been taking full advantage of your excellent instruction in preparing an old oak and oak verneer desk (it was left on the curb as garbage; we brought it home and use it as a dining table). Just about to apply the 50/50 mix. We need our table back, so I want to finish the finish ASAP. At 50% humidity today, how long do I need to let the first coat dry? You said "overnight"... is 10 hours enough?
Old Masters makes a tung oil based spar varnish so does Man-O War. Both available on Amazon. Use that. I dont know what the composition of their tung oil varnish is.
A follow up to the above. Looking at Sutherland’s line up of products, would you also recommend mixing their Exterior Polymerized Tung Oil with their Spar Varnish? The exterior also contains other additives like mildewcydes? Also is there another more economical brand you’ve used? I’d like to treat some exterior redwood decks and cedar siding. Thank you!
Lee Valley Tools has a polymerized tung oil that last time I checked was cheaper (with free shipping). I'm not sure it'd be cost effective in doing decks, etc. best . . . paul
Hi Paul thanks for the value of your experience!! I am new Subscriber. I make scroll saw projects that many times are 1/4 inch thick wood. Then usually after cutting out, are glued together in several layers. Usually at least 3 layers. If I treat the wood first, before cutting out. Then the interior cuts will have unfinished edges, as well as the very outside edges of the cut out layers. What is the best way to deal with this? Also would finishing the board before cutting, cause a problem when I glue the layers together? Will they adhere well (glued on top of each other) after having these oil finishes applied? These can be difficult to finish after layering. I have mostly just used a clear spray after the project is assembled., without stain or coloring at all. But I want to use your style of finish. Thank you on advise on the best way to do this, this will help a lot of us scroll saw people!! Keep up the great job!
Hey George. Hmmmm! I get it. Definitely gluing issues once finish is applied. I wonder if the combo mix can be thinned enough to go through an air brush? Cost could be justified if you do a lot (that;'s what we tell the wives, anyway). Harbor freight has pumps and sprayers at reasonible $, not the best quality but maybe a place to experiment. Other option might be to use an artists canvas brush. Sorry wish I could be of more help, George. Please let me know if you figure it out! best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutionsThanks for getting back to me. I have been experimenting and the layers seem to glue together just fine after oil treatments. as long as I allow them to dry for 24 hrs or more. Then a small touch up with a brush and I have a piece of art work, I have a very nice air brush set up, that and I might just get it out and give that a go as well. Thank you for that advise, I just never thought of that. But spray cans are just so easy..lol Thank you you have been very help full!
HI Paul. I tried to ask this a few days ago, but can't find my question, so I don't know if it posted properly. I apologize if you get this twice. I looked at Lee Valley and could not find a tung oil spar varnish. I only found a "tung oil sealer" at lee valley or linseed oil spar vanish. Otherwise, all I've found is spar urethane from MinWax. Could I do this mix with a spar urathane as it also oil based? I have concerns about the linseed oil yellowing :). Thanks in advance.
Hey JR. Check Sutherlad Wells (oniline) for Marine Spar Varnish or look for Epifanes Marine Varnish. Urethane is not as flexible as varnish. Manufacturers add softeners and UV protectants to do what spar varnish does naturally. I like the look and feel of varnish over urethane. It's a lot more costly for manufacturers to produce (yet little prcie difference at register).
Hi Paul I was just wondering if you would recommend using pre-stain if you’re going to do this finish? I’m talking about the one that’s half tung oil and a half spar varnish? I’ve got a really soft maple table that I’m sure will splotch if I don’t use the conditioner.
Hi Viginia. I assume you are going to stain your wood, correct? Maple is a wood that will blotch so if you are planning on staining it yes you'll need conditioner. I would follow the guides in my video "Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique | Furniture Refinishing" (link below) on staining with a conditioner. Maple is also subject to grain raise so be sure to wet the wood with water let dry and then sand with a 180 grit paper and remove all sanding dust before using the conditioner. Apply your stain while the conditioner is still damp. Let the stain dry (do not sand) and then apply the combo finish. It's a easy finish to get right since it's a wipe on wipe off process. I'm here if you have questions. best . . . paul ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dM4i28QNrik.html
Hi Paul. Locally I was only able to find Old Master’s for the tung oil and McCloskey’s Man O War for a Spar Varnish. I can’t find any info on line about the base of the Spar Vanish so I’m not sure that it has tung oil as well. Q: would you recommend this combo? If so, any changes to the mix percentage? Also do you change the mix percentage with subsequent layers? Thanks again for your advice! (I’m going to use this on the wood panels of an indoor shower that is redwood.)
Hey Brian. I might stick with tung oil. While spar varnish (also called marine varnish) is waterproof I would be somewhat disinclined to use it where steam becomes an element. I would also use a poymerized tung oil for dry time improvement. Check Lee Valley Tools and Sutherland Wells (online) for oils and varnishes. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, thanks for your quick response regarding my tung oil varnish question. Very helpful. I found that Lee Valley carries polymerized tung oil but I’m trying to get it asap for a project now. Do you have advice on brands of polymerized tung oil to look for or other sources? Most of what I see on line just says “tung oil”. I appreciate your expert advice!
Hi Paul, I'm impressed with all your knowledge. In looking for polymerized tung oil, I only found Lee Valley and one other brand. In looking for tung oil-based spar varnish, would that be the spar urethane, such as Old Masters Marine Spar Varnish? I don't find any that specify they are tung-oil based. Also, I'm working on a dining room set that I refinished about 38 years ago - mahogany - with a tung oil finish. Can I rub it down with 0000 steel wool and apply another coat of your combo finish? Thanks for all your info! Carol
Hi Carol. Urethane coatings have a plastic resin while vrarnish is a phenol resin. The rap on urethane is they look "plasticky". Tung oil based varnishes have a much richer, softer look and feel. For Spar Varnish I recommend Epifanes, Total Boat Marine Coatings or Sutherlad Wells. For polymerized tung oils Sutherland Wells or Lee Valley Tools. As far as going over your table it really depends on it's condition. If you used a furniture wax or polish it may be too sealed to absorb any new product (oils need to penetrate the into the wood). If you spilled something it may have the same effect. Hope that helps Carol. best . . . paul
Thank you Paul, for the speedy reply. The buffet is on a wall between two windows. The right end of the buffet, exposed to more southern sunlight, is very dry and bleached-looking. Perhaps sanding and applying the combo finish? The rest of the piece is in pretty good shape. @@paulsDIYsolutions
Sun will lighten most woods. What color is your set? Are you worried about matching the existing color? Sanding deep or stripping will work to get it to bare wood. Then stain and I would use the combo finish, It will be UV resistant. @@user-hf3lf3qo4e
The set is mahogany, though unstained, so not a deep red. I'll try sanding and see where I get. May have to stain that end to try and match. Again, thank you! @@paulsDIYsolutions
I told my friend all about your videos. We are both using the combo finish on our separate projects I am using it on a 1960 dresser. She is doing it on kitchen cupboards for her rental. We applied the first coat 1 of the combo finish to the cabinets. It does not appear to be soaking in everywhere. After discussions she admitted to sanding and restained. But she did not remove all the old finish!!!. she did not strip it like I did.. I think there is still bits of most likely old poly on the surface. SOOOO what can she do?... they look good so can she place a oil based poly on top? Will this create a problem? How long should she wait to apply the oil based poly? Thank you Chris
Hey Chris. I wouldn't put polyurethane over it. Spar varnish is better than polyurethane. You say it didn't soak in but you then said it looks good. I'm confused?
@@paulsDIYsolutions the doors stain wise are okay but looking closely i can see parts where it did soak in and it looks good then I can see areas where it appears maybe spots where old poly was left on and no combo finish soaked in. She will not start over so should she put a spar varnish finish diluted with paint thinner on......? Lol lol it has made me be very careful with my dresser project seeing the problem this makes. Thanks for all your help it is invaluable!
@@user-io4qq5xp9l Maybe it wasn't a good removal or maybe it's typical. So the first coat of most finishes (unless it is globbed on) looks patchy. The reason is the oil varnish mix soaks into any open pores and wood porosity changes in different areas. I would keep going as directed in the video. best . . . paul
This is so great, thank you for posting! I am refinishing a vintage dining set. Sanding was done months ago and now I have to apply the finish. I initially wanted to go with pure tung oil but now that I watched this video - I'm not so sure, maybe the blend that you use will help me accomplish this faster. Who manufactures the products you use in this video?
Hey MS French. This would be a good choice for your table! Nice soft reflection and durable finish that's complelely liquid proof. You can buy whatever spar varish is on sale just be sure it's tung oil based not urethane based. For the tung oil I recommend you buy the Lee Valley Tool brand of polymerized tung oil. I used Sutherland Wells but their prices have gotten out of hand. Let me know how it turns out. I'm here if you have other questions. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Would a linseed oil based varnish oil work for this combo? Lee Valley carries a Varnish Oil by Tried and True that doesn't contain urethane, but uses linseed oil instead of tung oil.
Like the videos Paul Did the combo on a new walnut kitchen island, looks beautiful. I followed your video step by step. Bought and waited for the same tung oil and spar varnish from southland wells. I did 3 coats on bottom side and 5 coats on top side. Sanded between coats with 220, one of the first coats sand paper did leave light scuff marks (the following coat did not cover them) I let it cured a full week before installing. We started using it and are getting ring marks from cans/mugs…any suggestions? How about a n3 nano application? Thank you
Hey Alejandro. It hasn't fully cured yet. Varies based on temp and humidity bit typically takes 3 weeks. Thanx for watching glad it turned out. best . . . paul
I’m having difficulty finding the tung oil based spar and the polymerized tung oil.. can you share a link to where you get yours? Also, do you use bees wax to fill gaps/knot holes in wood before finishing? If so, do you have a video for that procedure?
Hi Paul! I just discovered your videos this week, and I think they are fantastic! I see they are all from a year ago. I hope you will do more in the future...If you are still answering questions, I have one...I am looking forward to using this combination finish on a run of mahogany doors I will be refinishing this month here in Florida. Do you recommend any periodic / seasonal maintenance with this system? And if so, what would that look like? Thanks in advance! I subscribed to the channel, so I will keep an eye out for new videos! -BV
Hey Brian. I'm still making sawdust and only do videos when I get ambitious (lot more fun making sawdust)! Are your doors indoor or outdoor? Indoor you'll probable never have to maintain. Outdoors with rain, sun and Florida Hummidity you'll probably have to maintain every 4-5 years. Nothing more than a lite sand nad recoat. It's a great finish as the tung oil moisturizes the wood's fibers and spar varnish seals the surfaces!! best . . . paul
I’m refinishing my dad’s oak kitchen table top. It had some very deep black damage spots, (some which were too deep to safely remove, but it’s better.) I wish I had found your videos before I started! I did a pretty good job of preparing my wood. Stained then applied my first coat of spar urethane. It was glossy. Too much! I bought semi gloss for the second coat. Sanded between and lightly used tack cloth. Problem is that there was a small area where the urethane seemed not to adhere properly. Any suggestions?
Hey Johnna. Nice daughter!! Was it the first coat or the second coat that isn't adhering? So I see you are watching my combo finish video. Since you have already applied spar urethane I wouldn't use this finish over it. Instead watch my video "How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated" (link below). You can use the urethane you already have and follow it as if you are laying down your first coat. Before you start though ley me know about which coat isn't adhering. best . . . paul ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nxwMmjg4kIY.html
Thanks again for this video. (This is my second viewing.) Do you have any videos on grain filling? If not, what product did you use to the fill the grain? How do you apply it? How do you sand it? Thank you so much for your valuable help!
Hey Scott. I'll answer the first part of your question the rest of it is a 20 minute video in itself. I use Aqua Coat. It's by fgar the easiest and cleanest of the fillers. It will take a bunch of coats to get it perfect. I sand with a 220 grut. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am making an ash countertop that will have the underside adhered to an mdf subsurface. I've read conflicting advice regarding the need to finish both the underside and the good side. I plan to stain the good side and then use this combo finish. Is it necessary to apply a finish to the underside of the work piece?
Hey Cameron. It's a good idea to do both sides. Wood expands and contracts seasonally due to humidity levels. If you do one side and not the other it expands and contracts at different rates. For hard finishes this can cause cracking, chipping and peeling. The finish you'll be using ids a softer finish (more fliexible) so it will have less propensity tohave those issues. You don't have to do multiple coats but I would do as much as I could. I did this finish for a client who's butcher block tops were already tacked down. I used a roller and hit all the underneath surface I could. That was 5-6 years ago and all is well. I'm here if you have other questions. Use my website as a referrence as it have outlined written appliocation details (www.paulsDIY.solutions). best . . . paul
Hi Paul! I just discovered your videos today…and they are so awesome and informative! I have built a coffee table out of pine. I used a pre stain, then Varathane oil based stain, then I sanded with 0000 steel wool. My original intention was to use polyurethane to finish. However, after watching several of your videos, it seems your combo may be easier and more foolproof lol. But I have a few questions. 1. Since I already used the 0000 steel wool after staining-is this going to cause an issue? If so, what should I do? 2. Since I used a pre stain and oil based stain, do I need to clean it off with mineral spirits or should I just use a dry cloth? You mentioned rubbing alcohol, but I’m assuming I can’t use that on the stain? 3. With the combo, are there bad fumes that linger and if so, how long? Are they worse than the stain fumes? (The coffee table is a gift for my sister, who is sensitive to smells.) I will also be in the car with it for 5.5 hrs taking it to her in Ohio lol. Thank you in advance for your help! Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Hey bf7. Here's how I would handle this. I would not use any liquid over a prestain and then stain. You'll end up removing too much of the stain. A good vacuum or air compressor blow will be sufficient. #0000 steel wool is comparable to 400 grit sandpaper. That's pretty fine for either polyurethane or varnish (both need something to grab onto usually around a 180 grit). Oil on the other hand can handle 400 as its a penetrating finish. I would defer to the combo finish. Be sure to use polymerized tung oil and tung oil based spar varnish. Both can be purchased online. I use Sutherlad Wells or Lee Vallry Tools. Both stock both finishes. Now here's the deal I would do one coat of polymerized tung oil and let it dry overnight. Wipe it on and off just like the combo. The oil should give you the base you need to: 1-seal in the stain and 2-provide you with a base that you can lightly sand before the next coat. The next coat would be coat one of the combo mixture. The finish will be dry enough to handle with an overnight wait. All finishes have fumes and it can take 2-3 weeks to off gas (dry all the way through). The good news is the fumes from tung oil are safe and have a rather nice odor (my opinion) and after mixing the varnish and oil the varnish content is greatly reduced so little off gassing. Hope that helps. I'm here if you have other concerns. Happy Holidays. best . . . paul
Hi Paul@@paulsDIYsolutions I'm just now getting around to actually ordering the polymerized tung oil and polymerized tung oil spar varnish. I see the spar varnish with 100% tung oil on Sutherland Welles web site. However, for the polymerized tung oil, there are several lustres. But it says that the highest luster has the most tung oil in it, is that what I should get? When I look at Lee Valley I can find the polymerized tung oil but not the polymerized tung oil spar varnish. Am I just missing it on their website?
Hey Joy. So what sheen are you looking for? The more coats of tung oil you apply the higher the sheen. Low lustre oils at Suterland have been thinned more. The better deal is go with the high lustre and let the # number of coats you apply determine the sheen (minimum 2 coats). Hope that makes sense. As far as spar varnish Sutherlad Wells is tunk oil based you caould also go with brands Epifanes or Total Boat. best . . . paul
You gave me a recipe for dry wood. 60% mineral spirit and 40% polymerized tung oil. Mineral spirit's have been out of stock in my local area for quite awhile. Can i use anything else in its place?
19:14 Hi Paul, Just found you today. Love your no nonsense, get to it approach. I need to learn a lot about finishing. I’m working on a small music box for my daughter-in-law. I sanded it to 220 and the end grain to 320. The closest finish I have on hand to your combination finish is Danish oil. I’m applying that according to your directions in this video. I looked at some box stores tonight for the varnish and tung oil you mix but couldn’t find them. Can you share some brand names for me? Thanks for the videos. I would attach a picture of my project if I knew how.
Hey MrKringles. Lucky girl (I have a great daugther-in-law as well, lucky us). Be a little careful about Danish Oils. They too are oil/varnish combos but there is no standard formulas from one manufacturer to another. I stopped using store bought combos because of the inconsistency I see from brand to brand. Awhile back I found one I liked and the manufactirer changed their formulas to comply with EPA guidelines and it ruined my project! Anyway there are only 2 polimerized tung oil manufacturers that I am aware of. Both sell online one is from Lee Valley Tools and the other from Sutherland Wells. I do use Sutherlands Spar Varnish but I'm not married to a given manufacturer and tend to look for sales. best . . . paul
Paul, thanks for the video. I need to finish pine wood windows, base board, and molding. Do you think 2 coats would suffice (it’s a big project)? Also, what brands do recommend?
Hey Brett. Here's the deal. Varnish is a surface coating whereas oil is a penetrating finish. The oil soaks into the wood lubricates it and adds texture and beaury to the wood (much like applying oil to your skin or hair). The varnish adds durability and a nice reflective satin sheen. I do three coats on furniture because there isn't a lot of varnish in the mixture. You could do a 50/50 first coat and a 25/75 (25% oil and 75% varnish) to compensate for the third coat. Because it's trim I would not sand initially (the factory sand should be fine) or between coats or on large flat surfaces do a very fast light sand. I don't have brand preferrences and tend to drift to sale items. best . . . paul
Loving our videos! Would this finish be appropriate for a heavily used kitchen table? I have a quarter sawn, red oak kitchen table that needs refinishing. I was going to use a satin poly topcoat because of its durability. But, after watching this video, I'm wondering if your combo finish is as durable. Thanks!
Hey Pride. Polyurethane is a plastic resin that dries rock hard. The rap on poly is it often looks plasticky, especialy if not applied properly. Spar varnish is an alkyd resin which is a little softer but still durable. Both are water tight. Both can provide years of protection. If you have a few teenagers (who can beat up virtually anything) polyurethane would be the way to go but if it's adults the combo finish is drop dead gorgeous and easy to apply. Hope that helps. Let me know which you choose, please. Thanx for watching and the positive feedback. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks so much for the feedback. I don’t have teenagers but will have grandkids. With all you said in mind, I’ll probably use a good oil wipe on poly which I’ve used before with great success. I may try your combo on a desktop I’ll be doing soon, though. Thanks!!!
I have a piece of African Mahogany I’m using for a table top. I want to use your method in this video to finish it, however, I want to fill the grain. I currently have it sanded to 150 grit. At what point in your process do I fill the grain? I am new to all of this.
@@paulsDIYsolutions I want a very smooth surface and mahogany has a very open grain. This is a sink cover for an RV and they want a matching dinette table with it.
@@mrkringles Got it. So I like Aqua Coat Grain Filler. You can start it now (at 150 grit) then move up the grit line (180, 220, 300, 400) filling each layer in between. It doesn't pay to go much higher than 400 because after that the sand paper becomes polishing paper.
I ended up finishing this sink cover with Rubio monocoat. It turned out very nice but when it was placed over the sink it warped because of the dampness in the sink. Is there something I can apply over the Rubio to seal the wood from moisture?
I am so enjoying your videos. Very informative. I am installing live edge shelving using beautiful spalted maple wood. Would you recommend this blend of spar varnish/polymerized tung oil over just tung oil (using your technique)? Also, do you have a particular brand of spar varnish and polymerized tung oil you like to use? Thank you in advance.
Hey Mary. Sounds like a nice project. I really think you'd be happy with the combo finish. It has a beautiful sayin sheen (if you look back on this video at the start where I'm wiping the surface you'll see the reflection of my hands). But it's satin not glossy! It also provides a durable surface. I use Sutherland Wells oil and spar varnish. I recommend the Low Lustre Tung Oil. Let me know which you did and your thoughts when done, please. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you so much Paul. I believe I will go with the blend. I was leaning that way, but wanted to get your expert opinion. And also, thank you for the brands suggestions. I'll let you now how it all goes.
I wanted to follow up and let you know I used your combo finish. My project came out absolutely beautiful. It was so easy to do and the results are amazing. Thank you for all your help.
Hi Paul thank you, Have you ever used staining sponges? you haven't mentioned them in any of your videos. I will call the number on your website hopefully I can reach you hope all is well God-bless you by for now Ken
Hey Ken. No I never have. I used to use old rags but now I buy chip brushes in quanity. They are cheap, throw away and have a nice handle. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks a lot for your reply, for long lasting waterproofing? Tung oil is not not a varnish itself right? Sorry I am newbie in varnishing and just started reviving furniture and windows at home, so watching your videos and was really useful and was wondering about that.
@@kushi5544 You rae right. Tung oil is NOT a varnish. It is classed as a drying oil. Most oils remain tacky until they evaporate over time. Tung Oil and processed Linseed Oil dry hard. Tung oil will last a very, very long time when properly applied. Varnish and polyurethanes are resins that go on as a liquid. There are thinners and carriers that keep it liquid but eventually evaporate leving the clear resin hard and intact. I prefer oils for their beauty and resin finishes for their durability. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Appreciate you taking time to replying and clearing my query. Thank you. Your videos are really helping with home improvement and saving some $$ doing it by myself 🙂 thank you 🙏🏼
Good morning sir, I have just discovered your amazing channel. I’m trying to decide if I should use this combo finish or your poly technique on a bar top I have built. It’s southern yellow pine with a water based dye stain on it.
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you for the quick reply. I had 1 more question. I have a bunch of 50/50 Tung oil/citrus solvent left over from the faces of the bar frame, can I mix polyurethane with this and use it on other wood surfaces around my house?
@@paulsDIYsolutionsfirst coat is on, and it is absolutely beautiful. This is a new hobby for me, and it is definitely teaching me to be patient. Thanks again!
@@paulsDIYsolutions Im having a hard time with the wipe off part. I feel as if I’m wiping too much off, or maybe it’s because the surface of the bar top is so big it’s drying faster where I started. I guess this is where experience would pay off.
Hi again Paul. Yesterday I posted a question on your tung oil video about a problem I was having with my walnut butcher block counter showing some white areas. You gave great advice on how to remedy that. Now that I have watched THIS video, I am wondering if this clear wood combo finish would be a better solution. I am NOT going to use the butcher block counter as a cutting board EVER. [To recap the prior question from the other video, I used 6 coats of Real Milk Paint Half and Half which is 50% tung oil and 50% citrus solvent with no sanding between coats - per product instructions. It is NOT polymerized, so is now on its 26th day of curing. It shows some rough spots which look white in certain light. You advised sanding, doing a coat of tung oil thinned with 30% solvent, followed by a coat or two of pure tung oil.] I'm leaning toward doing this combo finish instead now but would appreciate your expert opinion, since I am an ultra novice. And if you do approve the combo finish route, I assume I would still sand it to get the wood grain issues resolved first. Thanks again!
Hey K. Yeah if you are not going to cut on it it's a glorious finish!! Super liquid tight and easy to repair if ever needed. It can be applied right over your previous tung oil applications.
@@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul. I applied this as you recommended on my butcher block counter and also on an indoor live edge walnut bar. Both look great. I also used this on a live edge walnut coffee table. It was stunning until our 2 year old grandson ran his toy cars over the top... Seeing your comments below about the durability of polyurethane, I'm wondering if I should fix it with that? Remember - I'm not a woodworker - just a grandma who would like to enjoy my grandkids without obsessing about them destroying my furniture - lol. I so appreciate your wisdom and guidance! What do you recommend?
@@karenjohnson2268 Hey Karen. Lucky grandson!! If the scratches are not supper deep before you change finishes. If you still have some oil and varnish left I would make a very small batch (like an ounce) and wipe it over the area. let me know. paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Great! I do have some left! Should I change the ratio to make it any "stronger" in one way or another? Should I lightly sand first? The scratches are light.
Paul, I have a question...I have a butcher block desk top that I am repurposing for a kitchen island top. I will not be cutting on it, just a countertop. I have been watching your videos and love you, my lifesaver! So I'm my situation would you go with a mixture of tung oil and spar varnish or as I saw in another video, the tung oil and mineral spirit mix. I am stripping out and sanding out and then applying and oil based stains. Thanks again for helping with all your knowledge.
Hey Susan. Thanx for watching. Couple things. Are you100% sure that all the old finish will be gone. Most often a desk top purcahsed commerically would be finished in lacquer. Stain nor tung oil will not soak in if any finish resudue remains. Next butcher block is typically made from hard maple. Hard maple does not accept stain well. It's a very tight grained, close pore wood. I would strongly suggest you practice on the underside to be sure it's a look you'd want. best . . . paul
There is a stain but no topcoat on it. I plan on strip and sand, hopefully getting it down to natural wood. The butcher block is oak. I will be applying an oil based stains to it. I did a test section on the bottom and it is excepting stain. Wondering the best 2ay to put a sealer on it. I want a more natural look as opposed to a poly look. Thank you for responding to my question.
@@susanreed6617 Hey Susan. You will be fine with oak and stain. Either the combo or tung oil will look good. If you are going with the combo get a satin spar varnish. I do recommend polymerized tung oil for either finsih as it dries overnight whereas pure tung oil could take days to weeks to dry between coats. The best price I've found for polymerized tung oil is at Lee valley Tools online. Let me know how it turns out.
I am back! I have a few more questions for you. I followed your pour and wipe video on this 30x60" project because the wood was sucking in the stain fast. So much easier to flood and wipe a big area! I kept looking for some stain to seep up to the surface and it did a little in some grain areas, I wiped a few times. 24 hours later I applied 2nd coat of stain same method because I wanted much darker then the first coat. Did just like your video. I had to keep wiping stain that kept weeping onto surface. I did that every half hour up to 3 hours. Next morning it had a few more spots that came back to surface that were now dry. I am experimenting on the bottom of the project so I am not too concerned but would like to avoid future mishaps on the good side. So a few questions... Why do you think this happen? Should I try to sand them? Do you think the wood is too saturated with stain? If so, do you think a could still use a tung oil finish? Not sure oil will seep in. I could tung oil with spar varnish but wondering how hard that would be to fix if it gets scratch since this is for and kitchen island top. What are your thoughts? Thanks so much for your expertise!
