This channel is all about audio - DIY Audio - Speaker building - Acoustical stuff - Electrical stuff If it has something to do with audio, and it's something that's fun and interesting, then we can make it into a project and put it on RU-vid.
Check out the newest Video from "Franks Werkstatt der Lautsprechertechnik", where he introduces a great idea for a cheap but very good solution for a DIY binding post. The language should not be a problem, the whole thing is step by step visualized.
Ports or passive radiators do not extend frequency response. Ports supply a” drone tone” at the tuning frequency. This means if I apply a 25 Hz test tone, the speaker will emit that frequency, but the port will emit the box tuning frequency. A microphone only measures pressure, so it adds the drone tone pressure of the “wrong frequency” with the speaker driver output of the correct frequency. The box is a helmholtz resonator.
17:29 why would you even want to do this? Aren't those peaks better addressed with convolution EQ? That way you can get slightly better energy efficiency because you drive your subwoofer less when it is playing those frequencies. Why fight the physical efficiency? That is not even mentioning the fact that you probably want to keep that lower peak
I have a 10" subwoofer that I built a box for, about 1.13 ft³, and it sounded great and everything but decided to build a ported box, about 1.58 ft³, and I used a flared 3" port tuned to about 37Hz, and MAN what a difference that made in volume! I was able to maintain great sound quality in terms of listening to metal music and I get even lower lows, super happy with it!
A carefully designed the clamshell configuration allows a smaller box, as shown in the video, but has a particular advantage in reducing odd-order harmonic distortion. This is especially true if the woofer lacks any distortion reduction features such as shorting rings or an extended pole piece. Suppose, for example, that the motor has a simple motor with a pole piece that's flush with the front plate, and no shorting rings. When the voice coil moves out, it moves more of its windings into an area with a weaker magnetic field. As the voice coil moves in, more windings are exposed to a stronger magnetic field. This means that, for the same signal, the speaker sounds different when the cone is moving out than when the cone is moving in, and both are different from the signal the amplifier sent. This is what we call distortion. If you take two of those drivers, put them in a clamshell configuration or back to back, wired out of phase, the unequal cone movements in and out will balance each other to some extent, making the sound produced more like the signal sent from the amplifier. In other words, the distortion is reduced. If, however, the driver has an extended pole piece or, better yet, shorting rings on the pole piece, the distortion is going to be lower anyway, so the push/pull configuration may not be worth the expense. There is still a problem with an extended pole piece in that the movement of the voice coil changes the magnetic field in the pole piece, causing distortion. The shorting rings largely shield the pole piece from these changes. So the extended pole piece will have more distortion than a well-designed driver with shorting rings, and may still benefit from the push-pull congfiguration.
But that is where my problem kind of comes into play. Kicker L7 with radiators and a port to spl in a truck. No body seems to talk about ones they've done or very few videos.
Hi, I need information on how you installed the bit ten on the BMW, because I also have a BMW and I wouldn't know where to get the power supply and the REM, thanks.
I haven't done the install myself, I went to car audio shop, which I recommend that you do as well. Anyway, the power you get directly from the battery which is in the trunk. If you use the factory head unit, and therefore high level inputs, just switch on "Speaker turn on" and you don't need to worry about remote. It will turn on when it senses the signal from your head unit. You just use the REM OUT to turn on your amps. I highly recommend to go to a professional as you might burn your car easily if you don't know what you are doing.
I was looking for 14awg wire and what I found is confusing… I have seen metric equivalent 14awg ranging from 2mm2 to 2.5mm2, what is the Actual accurate measurement?
I'm pretty confused also with US units. An accurate conversion of 2.5 mm wire would be 13 AWG. However, in shops you will find even gauge numbers. In that case 14 AWG is considered 2.5 mm equivalent.
Is it because the plastic box covering the amplifier is flexing like the speaker in a passive radiator kinda way.. Silicon a piece of MDF over the back of the plastic box to stop flexing.. Cheers 👍
as i said before, computer modeling will not and cannot accurately indicate how a subwoofer will perform... the builder will have to experiment with various rudimentary designs in how they want it a perform
LOVE your videos !!!! I've learned more from your several videos than I have watching hundreds of others; I think it has to do with the way you explain the topics where a Newbee can understand... I can't wait till you put together a high-level 3-way design of speakers like the elfton ringos, but with a more affordable woofer like say the Dayton Signature Series 10" 4 Ohm for a bass driver; I would really be interested in following your lead on those. You are Appreciated!
Use crimp wire ferrules before you stick it into a banana plug. It solves the screw issue most of the time, prevents corrosion and provides a better contact. Now all of this does not matter in real use, few tents of an Ω will not make any difference in audio circuits.
people hate sexcuring the wire to the binding posts, however ive had more issues with these coming loose or being annoying in other ways. i find the binding posts easy enough
Was wondering if I would need some for longevity purpose (oxydation). From listening I could hear some difference from some. I guess it was due to iron in the ones I took from my parents to test. Silver was the better sound but pricier. I've understood more and now I know what to pick if needed. Thanks!
Good job and great info. My personal gripe is banana plugs with metal sleeves. If you accidentally touch the two connectors together while switching cables, it can shut your amp down or put it into protection mode (which is a headache to deal with on some models) or the worst case, short out a channel/amp.
