absolutely incomprehensible... nobody buys a robust steel bike and then discusses every gram of weight that can be saved by using carbon parts, it just makes absolutely no sense
Hi, I am 171cm tall (5ft 7”) I went with Salsas size guide and got a small. The bike feels great, but I think I should have gone for a medium because the very long seat post is on its limit and then some.
@@DUCzillaMonster The rohloff is on a heavier off road touring bike. An off road touring bike is always going to be slower on steep up hill tarmac roads than the light road bike I am comparing it to.
@@RidingBicycles ok, just about the weight of the hub, i should see, its the hub against my 3 to 7 derailleur setting now, not that much of a difference in guess, belt driven
@DUCzillaMonster When you take into account the weight of the front and rear mech and the the cassette and chain you might be taking the Rohloff is 400 to 500 grams heavier. Check this article out for the facts about Rohloff and Pinion. www.cyclingabout.com/weight-difference-between-derailleur-pinion-rohloff-bikes/
I do have one problem with the twist shifter as I don't like resting my hand on it for any length of time. I did solve this by installing a Jones h-loop handle bar with lots of grip real estate so I can slide my hands completely on to the chonky grips when I'm not actively shifting.
It could go very fast. I would say approximately 20-30mph on a flat depending on wind conditions. BUT I want to add I was riding this on private roads. These powerful kits are illegal on public roads and I do not condoned the use in public spaces as they are giving all cyclists a bad reputation. If you are after a kit for public use make sure it has required wattage and speed limit and it can’t be activated with a trigger throttle, it needs to be pedal assist.
Depends on your terrain. If I was mainly tackling single track and rough terrain I would like flat bars. Suspension optional as it depends how fast I would want to go. All down to terrain, luggage, desired speed over said terrain, confidence and personal preferences
The Outback is a mountain bike at heart if you ride mainly single track or rougher stuff then the Outback would be the better option. If you are planning to ride mixed surfaces and a little bit of the rougher stuff then the Scrambler could be the better option. The Outback is designed to take some abuse and heavy loads so it is not light. Mine came in at about 16kg with a sus fork and about 14 - 15kg with the carbon. The gear range though helps you get over anything, it would impact your speed though, if speed is an issue for you then either bike might not be the best option and both are made for enduring long miles carrying loads without maintenance issues.
Beautiful. I came to eye-bang the crank and ring, but I liked your explanation of rear mech set-up with friction/indexing, for newbies. I have a question, so I hope you're still getting notifications for comments. How did the 46 cassette and long cage mech handle your 2x combo? What was the tooth step on the chainset? Those 11 speed series cassettes were specced as 42 max sprocket for 2x, and the 46 was specced for 1x only, and that was with a 10T step at the front, obviously for the limitations of the rear mech. Of course the manufacturer has to spec for optimal shifting, so in real-world applications it can work outside of spec. Back in the day of MTB 3x we sometimes had to run a chain length that couldn't be cross-chained big to big, to get good tension in the smaller rings. That was early 90s before the long cage derailleurs solved the problem. Did your chain fit your big ring and the 46, and if it did, how far down the cassette could you cross-chain small to small, before the rear mech and chain went limp, if that even happened? Cheers.
Hi, I don’t have that frame anymore, it was a lovely frame and I regret selling it. Well I regret selling every single bike I have ever owned!!!! But that would mean I would need a space for about 150 which I don’t have. I am building up a Brothers Cycles Mr Wooden with downtube friction shifters at the moment. That will have a Velo Orange 28/46 crank and a 11-36 cassette, I think that will work really sweet. As regards to the set up on the Black Mountain. It could handle big/big without any issues and small/small did not cause the chain to sag. But I did find that the chain did drop a couple of times when moving on to the small chainring as the rear mech would quick take up the slack. The only reason I kept the 46t cassette on was because that is what I had when I was using one friction shifter to use it as a 1x11. I can’t honestly remember the chainring sizes on the 2x setup I think it was something like 28/44.
@@RidingBicycles Thanks, good stuff. I went and googled the Velo Orange to see how a granny 28 can go with a 44, and recognised it from a Path Less Pedaled video I've yet to fully watch. I've been side tracked into researching 2x options, for MTB crossover into skinny tyred riding and also MTB 'bikepacking' touring. It was cool seeing your field review of the White cranks, out on dirt, and it's very affirming to have you tell that you're choosing a 28/44 chainset. That's the synchronicity I'm famous for! I'm writing a lot about 2x 'MTB' cranksets with a 14t step. The 22/36 was (is?) a favourite combo for many like myself, but 10t step became some kind of new standard spec. But Shimano have now adopted 14t step in their new Cues line-up so it can bridge from MTB to what they call 'trekking' and 'urban' bikes. So the 14t step front mechs are the missing link for finding solutions for new builds of rigs with boost spaced rear ends and wide chainlines. The 14t step on granny/big 2x BCD cranksets gives the options to pair with grannies 22, 24, 26 and 28. So I've been saying how 28/42 is surely something that has demand from 'gravel' type riders and loaded tourers. And here you are! Bravo. I'm keen to see some video of 12 speed rear ends being combined and working with 11/10 speed front 2x sets. That gives guys like you, cranking the big gears on skinny tyres, that 10 at the rear. But a 12 speed build to try something largely untested is a big deal, and not necessary with your 28/44 range. It will be good to see those 16t step downshifts tested and what rear mech and 11-36 cassette you use. Road or mountain and length of cage on the rear mech. Like you say in this video, friction shifting is the key to opening up possibilities with the elimination of index pull ratio incompatibilities, so road and MTB groups can be mixed. (Like 12 speed Microshift thumbies on the wishlist.) So that's back to what I really liked about this vid, and a good place to say good luck and best wishes with the new build and all. Thanks again. Das Steel.
Haltwhistle? I passed there on a tour in 1988 but didn't know that it's the centre of Britain. In Sweden there are two locations both claiming to be the centre and the tiny village where I grew up is located pretty much halfway between them. So does that make it the average centre? 😂
I just fold up as per Gates instructions and then just put in a plastic bag and it works fine. Just be conscious of where you put it in your bags so not to twist it. I have a bag that is just for tools and it sits in there fine as it is a bag that hopefully you never need to go into to
Very very nice bikes, my dream ones! Thank you for sharing. Question : these bikes are silent, so what we hear when you ride them offroad is coming from the metal mudguards ?
Hi the campsite in the thumbnail is closed at the moment. But if you look at this map with the points of interest turned on I have put on some of the accommodation I am aware of. ridewithgps.com/routes/45931023?privacy_code=of0S4oyh3CGbm4yygLbnJWKhMruiBWVn
Just type in Gates Belt Snubber. There are some that connect on the derailleur hanger and some on the axle etc so get the one that works for your set up. You need to make sure the snubber does not touch the belt. You leave a little gap of a couple of millimetres. This manual has a page all about snubber set up and which one you need. www.gatescarbondrive.com/~/media/files/gcd/oemfactoryresources/gates-carbon-drive-rohloff-manual-en.pdf?la=en Here is a link to one of the examples. www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/gates-carbon-drive-rdm-snubber/
I wouldn't buy it: The name milled on the outside of the crank arms poses a risk of breakage, because aluminum is very susceptible to notch effects and the outside is under tensile stress.
There are loads. Have a look at Nua, Tout Terrain, Pilot, rennstahl-bikes, basically nearly every brand that does Pinion will have a commuting bike in their range. Have a look at the list of brands on the pinion site there are hundreds of brands that now use Pinion.
I got rid of the shifters and went flat bar. There was nothing wrong with them but I did miss the fact with a twist you can go through the whole range of gears and not just three etc. I really like the twist shifters for Rohloff and Pinion. Have in mind I am old skool. My go to bikes are my down tube friction shifters.
I am very interested in this bike. How does it behave on asphalt roads? The confort is good? I'm searching a multi-purpose bike with Pinion C1.12 gearbox and belt. With Outback I will go with 29 2" or 2.25" semi-slick tires for road journey and with big 27.5 2.6" for off-road focused journey. I'm undecided between this model and the Gravel model: Tout Terrain Scrambler Explore GT2. Thanks in advance.
Hi, The riding position on both bikes is very comfortable but that is different for everyone and can always be changed with different saddles, stems, bars etc. As regards to which bike If it is going to be your only bike I would suggest you think about which terrain you want to make most progress on. If you want to be quicker on the road then go for the Scrambler. If singletrack gets you excited then it would be the Outback. The Outback with some rigid forks and semi slick tyres would also work on the road. But bear in mind both bikes are not the lightest or fastest in the category of hard tails and gravels bikes. But if your main priorities are solo rides with nearly zero maintenance after each ride then you would be happy.
@@RidingBicycles thanks for the advice, now I'm thinking about Pinion, seems great but I do a lot of climbing on my bike, the weight maybe is more important in this situation... But I also love the idea of zero maintenance, also for the enviroment. Hard choice ;)
Yes. For less maintenance than indexed derailleurs and lightness my downtube friction shifters are my favourite bikes. I am building up a couple more for me and my partner. A couple of Brother Cycles Mr Woodens. Hers will have friction thumb shifters and mine down tube friction to match my Black Mountain Cycles Road bike which he does not make anymore. If you are wanting lower maintenance and don’t mind friction shifting then that is a good way to go. Black Mountain Cycles has just given notice on his Monster Cross frame with bosses for down tube shifters and canti brakes. It looks amazing in bright pink.
Loved watching this. Did most of the Tiso Overland 500 last year, and a, planning to do this with a mate this May. “The Lecht” is something else, and am personally looking forward to getting out on The Fungal Road! Cheers!
The views were immense and some of the wildlife which I did not get on camera was just lovely. Giant stags, seals etc it was ace! We were very lucky with the weather. It was a great trip you will love it. There are various options you can take to bypass some sections of the official bikepacking route if you want to make sure you hit a cafe etc. you will love it.
You dont have high enough gearing to speed with the fast bikes with a pinion??? What about changing the belt cogs, chainring bigger and rear cog smaller...
The style of bike would mean I don’t speed with fast bikes. This is a heavy duty expedition touring machine. Perfect for fully loaded off road tours, speedy is not a strong point of this setup.
😂😂 no but I am in the process of selling a few and not buying anymore. Retirement is looming, it is time to start getting serious with plans in place. 😂
I had a Schwann bike with shifters like that. I was so happy to get rid of it!! Had it for 40 years. I never want to go back to derailers ever again. Never. 40 years of noise, jumping chain, etc matter how many times I tuned up or adjusted it.
Fantastic achievement and a big well done to all involved. What a great experience for the kids. I wish I could have done something like this when I was at school. Brilliant 👍
You still use a normal 11sp free hub with spacers or a single speed free hub. The belt does not turn whilst coasting just like a “normal” derailiuer and chain
That harbour town is pronounced kerr-coo-bree. If your planning a camping trip be aware of the terrible midges in the forest areas in the midgy season. A midge face net a worthwhile precaution.
It all depends on how big your bike is and how high the rack is fitter. I am 5, 7” and ride medium sized bikes. It is not possible to do that on any of my bikes. The rack for the saddle bag clashes with the pannier rack, it is one or the other. You have a few options though. You could use a smaller saddle bag without a rack. You could get a bag to sit across both panniers or you could get the rack top pat like the Super C rack top bag that sits long ways in the space between the two panniers.