Welcome to my Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods channel! Although my videos may have some raw moments such as slip-ups, mistakes, and parts that need editing, I don't have the time to perfect them. Nevertheless, I hope you enjoy watching them. Your comments and feedback are always appreciated.
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You absolute mad lad! I love your work but why didn't you use some solder paste and hot air? The chips just snap into place when soldered. I get that the board has passive components on the underside. So just don't move the board while heating and let it cool down b4 moving it.
I must admit to losing the thread, with all the RAM switching, there. Was it the Chinesium CPLD in the end? I've been bitten by those a few times. Sadly it's looking like they may be the future of these projects as, like you say, end of life and prices going up. :(
Actually nickel Cad and nickel meth batteries do get hot when you charge them the problem is 360 battery chargers are not capable of doing power Cycles the thing is with nickel Cad and nickel meth you want to charge them and discharge them several times to refresh them try using a remote control car battery charger to do that
I've just got QTMTracker working! The Raspberry Pi is made by Sony of Japan and the audio is studio quality so I'm gonna make some tech-rock. Go Gadget Go! ❤ 😎 🖋
Apparently with this particular regulator it was found unreliable when using the adjustment. That's why I was told to cut the "adj" trace and just leave it at 3.3v.
What a beautiful Toshiba disk! Wasted on the schools really. Japan must have statistics on how many Acorns were tossed out and allowed to rust, much like the students. 🖋
That's a fantastic idea - rewiring the middle button to be the left or right. Using the middle button for menus is like practicing awkward scales on a piano. 😅 🖋
I've also heard it called 'Advanced Research Machine'. lol. I've dug up some BBC Micro Assembly manuals in a bid to learn it this summer, on a Raspberry Pi 4. They also used 6502 and even Z80 microprocessors! 🖋
Great job! Haven't seen it all yet. I would not have had the patience to hand solder those CPLDs! Some liquid flux would probably have helped you quite a bit though, getting the solder to flow on to the board. edit: nevermind, I was too quick writing a comment :P
It came on the CF card, but you can create your own .iff files using XnViewMP - you can load a .bmp or .jpg into it, resize the image using it, and reduce colour depth (to say 16 or 24 colours).
Is this TF360 pcb design released now or is it still only to buy in finished state? :) Thank you for sharing the build, I have my first ever cd32 on it`s way and got some rev6 cpu`s doing nothing. This is my plan for a perfect upgrade.
I don't think its public yet! But you can buy one from supaduper on AmiBay, or you can ask on the Exxos forum under the TerribleFire section! www.exxosforum.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=65
I have recently bought a pair of faulty Divmmc's. The seller had no time to bugfix. One is a bytedelight divmmc enjoy which works fine (just needed the correct exsdos) but the other is a divmmc future! that one does not work, all it does is flash the green led over and over and the spectrum screen is all garbled. I can sometimes get it the device working somewhat, the led stays solid but the screen is still a bit messed up! I am going to try what you did to the edge connector, this part seems to be a weak point so will see what happens with re-flowing the pins.
I feel like there’s a design flaw in how you only hit a single enemy when they are bunched up. In all other brawlers, your attacks will hit everyone in a single pile. Part of the strategy to beat them.
74HCT245 buffers drive to 5 volts, which is good CMOS level for Compact Flash cards powered at 5 volts. edit: some of the cpld outputs in Ripple IDE are not voltage converted by buffers (I would add these for CF compatibility)? 74LS245 drives over 4 volts and has higher current drive, which is probably good for A3000 and 4000 with parallel resistor terminations. SN74ALS245-1 has even more drive but output high voltage is only above 3 volts. ACT drives more than HCT (or AHCT/VHCT) but might be used with series source terminations to each IDE connector branch.
Amiga never came to my country in America, but this looks great. This is like 32-BIT. Probably the first 32-BIT system in the world for home console! And I'm gonna throw this in there. The graphics look a bit better than Burning Fight. But the music isn't as cool but it's real close!
Cool build :-) To your solder pump: I have the same one, and I found that when it makes a high-pitched noise after releasing the trigger, like in your video, the airflow is blocked at the filter piece at the end of the transparent tube. It's a round white fabric, soaking up with flux over time until it turns into a sticky brown mess, which reduces airflow next to nothing. Swap it out, and you should be fine again for a while :-)
Shame atari did not release this a tad earlier..true competitor to the amiga...powerful atari and it has gone to a good person to repair...These are as rare as hens teeth so to speak...best wishes and thanks for the upload.
I have all the pdfs (jumper lists etc), bom, roms, jed files etc if you need them (gba1000, gbapii, okta, usb 060 etc). there are some optional install parts depending on some jumpers etc.
Thanks! I've completed it all now and go the documentation etc. =D There are 4 other parts up on "early access", I need to push out the last part or 3 yet though.
Like I did in the video :o) You can't easily just use hot air on its own, the pins on almost everything were bent over! If you pulling them off with just hot air, the components dont come off or pins break.
Massive thanks to Conrad in New Zealand =D Parts 2 to 5 are on early access (Patreon and RU-vid Members). Plus the couple of exclusives on looking at issues with the case. www.patreon.com/GadgetUK164, or you can click Join in RU-vid to see those videos early, and to access many other early access and exclusives too! Your support is what keeps this channel alive! Thanks ever so much!
@@rustymixer2886 Yes, they do! The graphics hardware is different, but Megadrive is definitely more than capable of running a port of this! The sound hardware on the Megadrive is pretty capable too!
Got a near perfect a3010 and recently picked up an a3020 which was working but took it apart to discover green acid residue on the floppy side of the board not a lot just down edge of board , cleaned it with some vinegar and it has not worked since, just a red screen which later goes to black
It probably needs more cleaning, blown dry afterwards and may need inspection of traces around that area - make sure none have gone open circuit. It could also need any ICs nearby removing / replacing / reflowing.
@@GadgetUK164 removed the component from ic45 next to the floppy which basically got the brunt of the acid and it's.like a.bomb crater under their basically every trace under that chip.is broken🥺
I don't think it's the amiga that struggles with games like these, it's more like that back then, money for development was more poured towards SNES and Mega Drive, hence they were more feature rich. Nowadays on the other hand, passionate people can work on stuff like this and not be bothered by budget constraints, and work on it as a hobby, taking all the time they need.
Look great, really good work. But being nitpicky I have to say though that those posts in the foreground are a bit of a novelty and once you get over the effect, it's like a black bar down the middle of the screen.
