RC Trail & Tech (RC-TNT) is based north of Melbourne, Australia and I'm Craig, your knowledgeable and experienced host. I've been into RC crawling for over a decade and have been playing with RC cars since the 80s.
I hold a 2018 WRCCA Worlds overall 9th place, 2019 Australian national 2nd place in Mini 1.9, 2023 Australian national 2nd place in Scale-1 (C1), 2024 Australian national 2nd place in Mini 1.9 and 1st place in Scale-1 (C1).
I love all things RC and want to bring you along for the ride as I enjoy the hobby: not just the new stuff, but some classics as well.
As well as useful videos here on YT, there's a growing library of articles on rc-tnt.com/. Thanks for visiting!
"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." -George Bernard Shaw
Arrma should have kept the mojave the same size as the Senton. I have the mojave 6s and always reach for my senton . The mojave is big ,heavy, and needs a lot of room to utilize all that power.
Sorry, this one is discontinued by rgt, being nearly 5 years old. It runs the old Gen 7 clone axles, which are notorious for snapping in the cvd joint. It uses Philips head screws throughout, has straight links and a basic design. The 2.2 tires would help cover up some of the design's shortcomings, but overall you'll want to be getting it at a steep discount for it to be worth buying. Just my first impression from photos, but I'd give this one a miss.
I just ordered this one for 30 dollars🤣 im gonna do 370 motor, portal axles ,shocks and wheels bummed about the plastic chassis but for the price can't complain
Love the channel, I found it recently and have watched a.lot of your vids, good honest reviews and the problems really help see what the rigs can do Congratulations on 3 years 🎉
I have that same truck now I wanna make it look like yours lol it looks so much better with that camper box n new tires look amazing I would love to have one that camper box can you make me one n I’ll love you for ever 😊
Haha thanks, I'm glad you like it. Post on your local FB group. I've designed and published the file at no cost, so if you ask your local group of hobbyists I'm sure you'll find someone happy to help you out. Just send them the link to the Web page and they'll find the files and instructions there. Link is in the video Description .
Thank you! The TRX4 Blazer is the most capable. The FMS and Ascender are roughly similar in capability, but I think the Acender can be made more capable than the FMS - though the TRX4 will out-drive them both.
I don't buy smaller scale expecting better performance, I buy them because I run a small scale course in my backyard. These videos are helpful though and I can see why people with options rather get a 1/10 for the same price.
This is a reasonable approach and interpretation. However, I have quite a few similar and smaller scale cars to these, yet the Traxxas mini slash is the worst of the lot in handling, design and durability. They're comparatively terrible cars and I can't believe traxxas is still selling the brushed version at least. Their brushless version is a lot better with its improved center of gravity, but the same poor suspension and weak axles are problematic. At least the brushless ones won't catch on fire from a 2s lipo, which has happened with both of mine.
@joeoge9347 it seems to be a problem with the esc, the motors will take it all day. If they've updated the esc since mine, good. They really should have done so! Haven't had a latrax anything, sorry. Traxxas is just so expensive in Australia I don't have the same access to them that USA based hobbyists do. I understand they're a budget model with bushings instead of bearings. Don't know they'd be a better choice than arrma or even some of the MJX models, depending on body type and performance needed. Parts are certainly available for traxxas - but are the stock parts what you really want from a model like that? If so, no problem, you're set. But if you'll be upgrading it, it may be worth considering other options.
@@RCTNT Im using an FMT24 I just got as my first Rc, I like it for my small course but it has stability issues, not sure I can get better at 1/24 so I did notice my friends $300 Traxxas E-Revo was alot more stable but too big for multiple racers. Thanks for the replies and look forward to future videos.
Well, you may find good value with these options over the Traxxas, they're popular for good reason: H16BM amzn.to/3KOIxHu H14BM amzn.to/3KKwew3 There's also the original, big name company who designed the platform from which so many have copied: LC Racing. I have their EMB-T and it's just an incredible machine. amzn.to/3Xulfi1 I don't know about their availability and you can probably buy two MJX vehicles for the price of one LC Racing model. In any case these are all worthy vehicles. If you like the mini erevo, these will impress.
This is not the case. Indeed they offered to pay me for this review as well as letting me keep the car. I declined payment because I wish to retain impartiality as much as possible. My condition for these reviews is that I'll be honest and that I'll share all my observations, good and bad. BG have always been good about this.
😂😂😂 i dont thonk bangood was expecting this about there crap car. 😂😂😂 Very true. Australian r.c . How about doing some R.C trucks tamiya . Never purchase huina r.c toys
They were expecting this. It's the 4th car they've sent me and I'm honest every time. They'll sell cars from this video for sure - and I'm giving away my design for folks to print. The value is there, IMO. Great looking car, even if it doesn't perform particularly well. I do have a few tamiya videos already. There's an RC truck build here too that I really need to finish, but it's a TT 01 rather than one of their scale highway models. Lastly, that huina comment is seemingly quite random. I like their 1580 but not the dinky little bulldozer. I have videos for each of these. Cheers
Hi Chris, you want 'Under-tray main spacer.stl' in the middle, with 'Full Length Tray Bracket LHS/RHS.stl' on each side of the chassis. Use either 4mm ro 5mm spacers from the 'Spacers.stl' file to get the shocks aligned parallel to the chassis and to each other. I haven't made time to write instructions with pictures but I've heard back from several folks so far who have got it built successfully, so I know all the parts are there. It's a bit of a tinkerer's project, this one, but you do have everything you need in the zip file to get this thing sorted. You could try laying it all out on the bench before you assemble the rear end, to help give yourself an idea of how it'll go together. Good luck with it!
That would be forgivable if not for the premium price we pay over all other brands here. I don't mind that approach, within reason. It is a hobby after all. But the slash should not be hundreds more than other similar brands here. In the USA it's different, the car is cheaper. But those shocks at minimum need alu caps from factory, it's not good they're shipping a car not fit for purpose.
I'm looking for my 1st Crawler. I am torn between this and the Vanquish VRD Stance. I am not a Hardcore Crawler- I just want a good product / value piece. Which would you suggest? The Redcat plus these upgrades or the Vanquish ? Thanks !
Stance is the easy recommendation. It's simply better. VRD Carbon even better - it's value is considerably higher than the Stance, and building it will teach you much about crawling and will help you with maintaining it longer term. Either of these and also the SCX10 Pro over the Redcat. Pretty as the model is, it's performance is already at the limit due to its design. I've made it better with my overhaul but the Stance will run rings around it.
As always I’ve seen worse & way better but price would be a big factor but personally I wouldn’t buy it maybe as a gift you’ve got it looking a lot better but the esc noise was killing me.😂
I've never understood why companies can't grasp the fact that you don't have to spend more money to pick the right items for the vehicle. Like springs.. tires. How many leafs. It's not rock science..
I just picked up a Basecamp for my kid. I was having second thoughts and was wondering if I should’ve gotten the Deadbolt. From what I see in this video, I think I made the right choice. That being said I do like the body of the Deadbolt better… Thanks again bud!
I put a 4700 RPM 370 motor, all metal gears, metal rims, and an all metal linking system and some Injora Swamp Klaws...oh, and a Hobbywing 1060 I already had laying around.
It is serious! I love all my little MN model cars😄 I go into it knowing I am going to rip everything out of it and replace it anyway so I really have no complaints about the cheap parts. I was genuinely overjoyed to see that you reviewed a MN model car on your channel. There are Legions of us fans who love these little MN and WPL vehicles even though a they are really cheap and barely hobby grade😃
You are going to make me buy a 3D printer with all the awesome free files! I got a UTB18 on order with the $149 Amain deal... may need to print your chassis for that eventually. Thanks!
Looks like it was fun and kept you busy for a bit. Likely pass on this model myself, still very attractive and looks fun to mod a bit. I built a new rig using the Powerhobby/Injora LCG girder chassis. I put an Element IFS2 front end, pair with really long links out back
I just picked one up on AliExpress for 35usd, figured if it's bad, it's so cheap it doesn't matter. Ordered a 370 motor and adapter, and some 68mm 1.3" wheels and tires. Should be an alright trail truck, not expecting anything crazy. I also have an MB100 ESC that can handle 370 size motor I may try out.
I got one, it was fun little truck. What I found out was with just a change of better tires, it performed much better. Then I got crazy and modified the heck out of it 🤣 Actually you can use a higher capacity battery like a 2s 1500 mah. Btw, nice video.
3d printing beast!! I am starting to graduate from tinker cad haha…. Would love a good recommendation for a tutorial series on 3d modeling. I have an ender 3 with some mods and it has been working great!
I have been using Fusion360 but am self taught and still learning. Watching a tutorial is probably wise, actually. I'm sure there will be good ones on RU-vid here. Can't recommend any as I haven't used any yet!
Great vid and loving all the content and reviews on the website as well. Considering getting a first RC rig and very interested in this particular one for trail/scale as an alternative to the more expensive TRX4 lineup, one question has me hung up tho. When it comes to the Yikong, is it possible to get replacement parts/compatible parts or is it one of those deals that if it breaks it then becomes a paperweight? Once again, thanks so much for the content!👍
Thank you! I'm glad to have been useful! Ok, with this Yikong, as with many others including Traxxas and co., when you have some breakages, the repairs are universal: servos, motor, ESC, radio issues, etc. Even wheels, tires, links and drive shafts are not usually an issue for after-market options, even for unusual configurations. Your main concern with this kind of car is if the axles break. Snap a shaft or joint, or the diff locker mechanism breaks somehow. You have a couple of choices in such a case: try to find a replacement part from the manufacturer (it'll be hit and miss with Yikong, but I suspect a message to your place of purchase would probably yield good results if it was while the model is still being made); or, you can jerry-rig a solution yourself without new parts. Here's an example of that second situation: I recently modified my Cross RC EMO X3, which is a big, heavy, 1/8 scale crawler. While I was refitting new axles and brass and power system etc., I damaged the diff lock engagement mechanism for the rear axle. It was nearly impossible not to damage it due to poor design (IMO). I don't want to buy a new part and it's not something I can make myself. So, I compromised; I usually want the front axle locked full-time on any crawler and it's the rear that I like to be able to unlock on the trails and on certain crawling obstacles. So, I moved the intact front shifter piece to the rear axle and then used a spacer to full-time lock that front diff. I disconnected the servo for the front locker, and then put the rear back together. All is well, I'm happy, and I don't miss that unlockable front. Winning! There are usually a few ways to deal with breakages. Again, it's the axles that will be the main problem if there's a breakage there. And honestly, in the worst case you can source different axles from another vehicle to address a serious failure. Sometimes I'll even mix and match axles on a rig even when they're not broken. It's one way to get an overdrive/underdrive setup when different axle gears aren't available. I did this exact thing for the RGT Challenger, actually. That also gave me a rear remotely lockable diff, it was a good upgrade! Hope that gives you a bit more insight to help you make an informed decision. The radio system and electronics in this car are good enough, though cheap, and I expect you'll be happy with it. Just don't expect a hugely capable crawler compared to other 1/10 vehicles (I've got this rig on the 6-problem course in a follow-up vid, linked in the Description, if you're curious about crawling performance). Cheers!
@@RCTNT Thank You Craig for the excellent guidance and the shot of inspiration, you've made smiles here! This will be the start of the journey into RC I'd say🤓
Nice one. Enjoy it! Do keep in mind it's a cheaper car, so things may not be up to the Traxxas or Axial standard. But that said, I think it will give you hours of enjoyment. I'd suggest a 2S battery, maybe a 2200mah up to 5000mah tops. Smaller is better for weight - having 2x 2500mah 2s batteries can be better than 1x 5000mah 2s due to the lower weight the vehicle needs to carry. Better center of gravity, better performance, less stress on the car. In any case, it's an impressive rig and the value is pretty much unbeatable. Enjoy!
I like that you call them problems. Another point that differentiates your channel from others. This on top of having being entertaining and informative. Thanks for the content.
Haha yeah my mother filmed the driving for this one while she was visiting. We thought it'd be fun - and it was! I used face tracking, experimentally, for the talking to the camera part with DJI's latest osmo gimbal camera. It was so, so bad. What you've watched here was stabilised manually afterwards. My goodness, it was a failure! The first (and last) time I use that feature!
