Welcome to my channel! My name is Koby and I am a surfboard shaper from Israel For the last 7 years, I shape and build surfboards in my small workshop and now I will expand for more great projects using an Epoxy resin such as River tables, woodworking, and more. I will upload surfboard building tutorials, shaping tools reviews, and great tips about working with epoxy resin art.
All my boards are made from EPS and epoxy resin and I like to go crazy with my resin! I will do swirls using tints and pigments, cloth inlays, weird shapes, and more.
I can talk about surfboards all day, so feel free to ask me any questions you may have and I will do my very best to answer them in the best way possible
When I am in the shaping bay working on a board with my music, shaping lights and foam I lose myself in the process and the whole world becomes quiet and peaceful. the only feeling that is better is when I take the first wave with a new board and the magic happens.
Koby, I’d love your input (along with any other shapers) on a build I’m trying. I recently picked up some old FireWire Tomo Vader/Vangaurds for $50 each and get worried about the LFT construction being weak and brittle over time. Would there be any downside to me laying carbon fiber over the existing fiberglass? Would it be worth trying to delaminate and use the shape from scratch? Maybe even sanding down the original glass with 100-200 grit and then adding it? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Why not just buy a new board everyone is wondering? Material is cheap, and a new one is $900 usd.
First of all- experience and trying new things is always good, you will have to sand the board with 60grit and do a damm good job doing that making sure it is exposed and clean (wax, oils and more) You can lay carbon but the added weight will be significant, you will also need to think about the fin boxes (they will low under the carbon) so that area needs to be addressed , and a hot coat layer Sounds like a big job, delaminating is a hard thing to do and NOT worth the time unless this is a huge board and you are shaping a new smaller board out of it Good luck
@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320I figured it wouldn’t be too easy, but neither is spending near $1000 haha! Great idea on the 60 grit instead of 100! I’m thinking that I can sand down majority of the fiberglass (or epoxy coat) off the board to minimize the weight, while keeping its strong adherence to the foam. (I’m thinking like with cars how in many cases it’s best to paint on paint instead of bare metal) It’s an LFT board with smaller stringer and weighs quite a bit less actually than it’s FST variation. Overall the board is stupid light, I’ll have to do some more math on what the end weight would be. The pros of strength in my opinion would be worth it, considering I’ll be vacuum bagging it with epoxy as well. Will be sure to let you know how the process goes, weight added, and how long it takes. Appreciate the feedback!
EPS stands for expanded polystyrene (kinda similar to styrofoam) and PU is Polyurethane. PU boards are more “traditional “ and are typically glassed with polyester resins. The PU foam is also closed celled making is less prone to getting waterlogged. EPS is much lighter than PU making for ultra light boards, but you have to use epoxy resin or you will melt your blank.
Great video, just a question. You put the larger fiberglass first and the smaller ones after as a pyramid. Have you tried the opposite putting the smaller first and larger ones on to to cover the whole area? Any difference?
Hi, do you have any advice for fixing air bubbles leaking through a pin hole sized area in a fresh epoxy resin repair on the nose? I haven’t glassed it yet, but when I drop a bit of water over it it still leaks air 🤔 can you advise?
Once you opened the ding area take a small amount of epoxy with microballone powder and with your finger seal the foam surface, once dry keep going normally- you will have no bubbles 💪🏽
How much weight does it add? I mean if you were making, let’s say 5’11 x 18 hi performance board for a pro/wct surfer…would it be noticeable to them? Assuming you use 4oz x 4oz… Just curious….it looks absolutely fantastic by the way
Hi Koby, I have seen in other videos that they place the fiberglass over the carbon fiber. Which do you think is the best way, placing the carbon fiber on the fiberglass or the other way around? Thanks
I am in the process of building a part, and it's around 5"x5", the peel-ply got stuck to it and I can't get it off. The fact that yours came off so smoothly even around the edges is amazing.
If you leave a hole with air in it it will create a bubble when hot and cold air comes, you need to fill it solid and close is, this is the professional way to do it 🤙🏼
perfect, this board looks soo nice! I have a question Koby. After the black and orange colour, did you wait a few minutes to let the colours set in the glass?....before using the clear resin? Because nothing of the colour gets smeared from the clear resin.
Looks great, I'd love a board just like that. If you don't mind, a few of points: I noticed a slight 'flouring' of the epoxy on the finish coat, so if you can get it, use a crystal epoxy hardener like the West 207 hardener in conjunction with their 105 resin, this gives a very clear finish. There were also issues with the edges of the peel-ply. A borrowed second set of hands might be the solution to get it to lay perfectly flat in one go. And finally, working with epoxy, especially over time will damage your health unless you use really good protection. I'm not sure if that mask you use is good enough. Look into a 3M 6503QL mask with A2 Organic vapor filters as well as P3 particulate filters over them. That should keep you going for longer :) Edit: I see in your most recent video you have one of those masks up on the wall ;)
Hey man, great video. I have close to the same exact buckle on my board I want to fix myself. Wanting to know exactly what products I need? Was going to go with the q cell filler but don’t know what epoxy is best.
כי הגלשן נושם, תחשוב שזה הפתח יציאה היחיד של האויר לצאת החוצה, הטריק זה לשים שכבה קטנה לאיטום ולחכות שכמעט מתיבש עד שזה ממש ממש מסטיק ולוודא שזה אטום ואז מעל למלא עד הסוף, ואז לא יהיו בועות, וגם להוסיף אבקת אירוסיל לחזק את התערובת עוזר (חוץ מהמיקרובלון)
לא מה פתאום, הבד מחוספס וככה זה אמור להיות, כשאתה עושה גלאסינג אתה אמור להשתמש בכמות חומר מדויקת ו״לסחוט״ את הבד כמו שצריך, אחרי 24 שעות עושים הוט קוט, מה שכן צריך לשייף זה מקומות שיש כפילויות בבד מהקיפולים תרגיש חופשי להתקשר או לקפוץ לסדנא להסברים
