Down South Armory is a firearm based channel. Ment for the soul purpose of firearms education and entertainment and to enjoy our 2nd amendment right. In no way shape or form are the videos on Down South Armory to be used or taken as legal advise or law. Please DO NOT attempt recreate anything seen on Down South Armory.
I agree. Most of the companies that sell firearm, specific lubricant are simply using the same lubricants used for everything else. They just label it as gun lube and charge 2-3 times as much. Personally, I use a mixture of full synthetic red bearing grease, Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer additive, and some full synthetic amsoil. I mix it up in a jar till I get a liquid with a viscosity somewhere between Mrs. Butterworths and honey. The only actual firearm lube I actual buy is the Teflon infused rem oil spray. I use that with a rag to wipe down the outside of my firearms to prevent rust.
Rattlesnake fat comes to mind...not sure where i heard that..and of course whale oil. I use beef tallow for cutting oil for machining..we used Mobil 1 on blowmold machines that used florine gas..it was the least likely to gum up
I think I'll pick some up Mobil 1 and give it a try! Even if I decide to go back to my CLP's, or other cleaners/oils... the Mobil 1 would be great to have in reserve as a SHTF backup like you said! A whole quart could last indefinitely! What is the best way to use it and apply it? Is it too thick to squirt well out of a $1 empty fingertip spray bottle from Walmart?
I use motor oil. BUT it's worth noting, most motor oils don't have anti-rust features. They still absorb oxygen. In a vehicle that's being turned on every couple days and running at temperature, there's no need. Snowmobile motor oil, however, almost always has anto rust additives. I use amsoil 0w40 snowmobile oil. It lets me run it all through an adirondack winter without freezing, stays lubricated during the summer, AND keeps rust away.
I didn't do this for cost. I did it because it's hit -30 multiple years in a row in the mountains just outside my home town. -20f during the day isn't unheard of here. Virtually every firearms lubricant on the market freezes or becomes abrasive at those temperatures. 0w stays pumpable down to -40, and is good for cold cranking at -31. Both of these Temps are below anything my home town has ever been recorded at. w40 allows me to have something slightly thicker, needing applications during storage less frequently. And with the rust prevention additives, it lets me safely store it long term without fear my rifle will rust out (humidity ranges here A LOT. We HAVE to have dehumidifying features in our safes, or store our rifles as though the humidity is 100%. I do both. With amsoil 0w40 snowmobile oil, I can store my rifle without worry, and take it out on any day or night of the year and know it will operate. Vs something like froglube... where if it's a -20 day, my rifle is GOING to freeze up if I don't take the time to decrease it and run it dry.
Synthetic lubricants are by far the best to use in especially if they are formulated for both high and low temps and I can just about see how well that Red and Tacky could work quite well by the proven dynamics of course and ranges of temperature extremes on both ends of the spectrum. If proven that they will perform to those temperature extremes, I would rather much chose a bonified a synthetic high performance lubricant that is formulated to a much higher standard; so much better than these high priced, mediocre if not low grade and expensive, over priced aerosol cans! Those small plastic bottles that are used in a standard military cleaning kit that is used on the M-16 can hold a nearly plentiful amounts of Mobil 1 for instance and even the Lucas Red and Tacky could even be stowed into an empty pill bottle for instance as well! I think this is a viable means of doing things that are not only cost efficient but really smart way to go!!
I use non toxic food conveyor oil. Its like $55/gallon and is highly resistant to washout. It is used in chicken plants to keep the conveyor equipment bearings running under harsh washing conditions. Lubriplate 350 i think it is. For spray out i use wal mart crc plastic safe electronics cleaner.....you can also use that on your car switches and electronics..... If shtf you can clean with kerosene, alcohol , mineral spirits etc and lube out of your crank case. Especially with AKs. They dont need much. Transmission fluid is also and excellent gun lube and it has surfactants to shed dirt and particles....
Ok....let me tell ya some truth. Ive used grease on my guns it stays put. Oil runs.if were talking polymer gun i mostly run em dry.maybe a dab of grease on the feed ramp.or the bolt on a bolt action. Lube attracts grit and holds it in the action. Unless your in combat you dont need lube. When you clean your weapons. Use a dab of grease on the internals.and coat the blued parts with anything to inhibit rust. Ballastol is what old man Hickok recommends. It stinks to hi heaven but i guess its ok.
In my day we used LSA, and when we ran out of it we used HDO-30 which is the Army version of SAE 30 motor oil. Both lubricants enabled the carbon to wipe off.
I actually use the Red and Tacky on everything, yes even the bolt and carrier of an AR. I can leave anything in the trunk exposed to Texas heat and never worry about it melting and drying off. I’ve used it for years and have yet to have issues with malfunctions due to its viscosity.
Not all gun lube is the same. Unless Mobile 1 or whatever engine oil is tested against the gun lubes like this video: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fibRewlndLg.html I'm not convinced.
Pull out the gas plug and clean the gas piston, channel, and the inside of the plug. I got mine on a trade and basically had to disassemble, clean, degrease, and re lubricate every moving part and friction point before the rifle would run properly.
The thing about the filters is that the oil is contained inside the engine and isn't going anywhere. It's being reused and small pieces of metal break off. A gun however, isn't containing the oil so it can burn off. And engines aren't cleaned a the same frequency as guns are. This is also all marketing - it says its for one thing so people assume its for this one thing _only_. So they end up buying 5 different products for 5 different tools when the product does the same thing. The only difference is their label. Lastly, that red and white container says "multi purpose."
Only reason gun oil exists is because there are people who will buy it because someone said its formulated for the gun but in reality is a spin of of motor oil with some other dilutants and such and a label stuck to the bottle but at the end it all works
I run Mobil 1 Synthetic in my H-D. I change my own oil. Any leftover oil is drained into a CLP bottle. This oil is then used for all of my cartridge firearms. No problems. I agree with the idea of motor oil and high temperature conditions in auto and motorcycle engines.
For pistols grease is much better for the barrel the locking part of the slide and the rails of the frame and slide. Just because grease stays where its should be. Oil take the way of gravity!
You want a semi auto shotgun to turn into a single shot in a hurry during freezing cold weather, spray some rem oil in it. Waxy garbage that I found out the hard way and been using G96 ever since 30 years ago
I have been using motor oil and high temperature lithium bearing grease on my heavily used firearms ever since Vietnam. I was on an M-48 with a .30 caliber coaxial machine gun and a .50 M-2 machine gun and a 90MM main gun that also needed a lot of lubricants to run. We also used it for our personal weapons. I have been using automotive lubricants ever since.
The light bulb just went on over my head It all makes sense we switched over to full synthetic in both my car and my truck and after watching your video I'll get a quart for my firearms it ALL just make's sense thank you for opening this ol' mans eyes
I dont go with mobile 1. Gun oils have rust inhibitors added. Motor oil does NOT prevent rust. However, MOTORCYCLE oil has rust inhibitors added. Because MOST people put their motorcycles away for winter. I use amsoil 0w40 motorcycle oil. It provides a rust inhibitor, works down to -58f (vs -20 for even the most cold resistant gun oil), and is thick enough to not need reapplication after a few shots.
Using automotive products is stupid too, dude. Just use regular mineral oil, or some LSA if you need something thicker. Hoppes gun oil is just regular bathroom mineral oil in a facny bottle. Fact. Same shit you use for daiper rash. You DO NOT want to use motor oil on finely finished firearm because of the detergents in it. It can destroy blueing, and it can remove paint. On an AR it's not going to hurt it, but again, just buy some LSA. Fun fact, most gun solvent, like Hoppes no.9, is just mineral spirits with a scent added. It's just paint thinner, also known as stoddard solvent, white spirits or mineral spirits.
I been using engine oil too. It seems to work well on areas that get exposed to high heat, there is less carbon sticking to the parts because of the high flash point of engine oils.
Motor oil is cancer causing and highly toxic. It's cancer causing shight!!!!!. Do yourself a favor and look it up. Used motor oil is even worse. If you get it on you wash it off right away the skin is permeable to all oils and is why patch medications and testosterone creams work. It has chlorinated additives and detergents to keep your engine clean...... every shot you are breathing in microdroplets of it sprayed in your face. and it is seeping into your skin without gloves. oil dissolves into skin. use a nontoxic gun lube like Balistol. If you get lung cancer or skin cancer in the future you will remember my words and say OH FUCK he was right. Try Balistol vs motor oil and it is good on wood stocks and leathers it is just mineral oil. Yeah if SHTF and there is nothing else.....but why breathe in cancer causing crap when shooting? it's spraying microscopic droplets in your face then you inhale it. I heat treat withMilitec-1 using gloves wipe dry and then use Balistol as a wet lube on rails bolts and bolt carriers. use whatever grease on internals you want it's inside and staying put but use gloves when applying. good luck deciding NOT to use motor oil. Balistol is not very expensive. Acetone is a great non toxic degreaser our body can metabolize small amounts use in a well ventilated area with gloves but be careful certain polymers and plastics and paints it is not friendly to and will ruin them. use 90% rubbing alcohol for these plastic and painted parts to degrease and de oil. good luck not getting cancer. brass/bronze brush balistol, acetone, rubbing alcohol, swabs and shop towels are all you will ever need. for all cleaning and maintainance. If you want to heat treat use militec -1 with gloves especially for parkerized or phosphated parts. wipe dry and use a few drops of Balistol for wet lube.
It's more about convenience... out in the field if you have a malfunction and need to lube certain spots... a quart of oil isn't practical to carry around
been using vegitable oil lol. not a good idea but it still works as long as you dont use one that has lanolic acid in it which varnishes over time (linseed oil is like 70%, oilive oil is like 10%). dumb story but it goes to show its not too important with frequent use and cleaning. switched to what glock does, copper based anti seize where the most movement is like the channel the rails move in under a slide, and regular mobile 1 for the rest. i think high mileage has more surfactants in it, which is good if you have blow-by in a worn engine and a big oil pan and filter system for them to flocculate and get taken out of suspension in, but in a firearm there is really none such thing so I think the regular mobile 1 with a more sane amount of surfactant is better. there will be significantly more carbon build up from a firearm compared to an engine, and too much surfactant can actually be a bad thing. interestingly the carbon buildup acts as a catalyst to polymerize/varnish the lanolic acids in cooking oil. synthetic oils have less variation in the oil chain lengths of their continuants so they usually hold up to heat better but i would expect them to have more thinning out under heat. thats what the antiseize is for. if you wanted to go all out you could use powdered teflon (ptfe), which i believe was part of the secret ingreadent in the og glock tenifer finish. someone correct me if im wrong
