The channel is starting with a DR650 RS restoration, which goes into every detail possible. In the future, we have also planned on doing some maintenance and repair work on a few cars. Maybe even starting another restoration, only the future knows.
By clicling the trunk handle release switch, I made sure that the release actuator is working as it should and the problem is only in the trunk handle mechanism.
Quick question pal, do you know where the Regulator / Rectifier is located on one of these ? Have an 125R and I trying to figure it out before I tear it down.
When cleaning the carb and addressing some of the other issues, I didn’t notice the regulator/rectifier. My best bet is that it’s behind of one of the rear side plastics.
Remember folks when you're assembling the clutch look at factory markings for clutch balance. Yellow dot on clutch housing etc. They should be spread apart by 120 degrees. Not sure if you done that on the video. Add a little bit of clutch grease on pressure plate as well and use proper centering tool, it's not expensive not like on video. Can't recommend your job to anyone but still fun to watch.
Hello, I watch your videos on RU-vid. I will buy a torque wrench for the K1100lt motorcycle engine. 20-120 N.M Will an adjustable torque wrench be enough or should I buy 25-220?
Hi, I have a torque wrench that is 40-220 Nm There are a few bolts that require more than 120Nm. Best case is to have two or three of them, so you can tighten the little and the boiler hardware.
Hello, I watch your videos on RU-vid. I will buy a torque wrench for the K1100lt motorcycle engine. 20-120 N.M Will an adjustable torque wrench be enough or should I buy 25-220?
Hey, I saw your video about the Yamaha Tenere XTZ 660. Really great, it just goes a bit fast. Is there a way to get the video in normal speed or view it on your RU-vid channel? It would help me enormously with my own engine block. Thank you in advance Wannes
Haven’t done it myself, I presume if you install it the other way, the clutch might not work properly, could be that it sticks after sitting for a while.
Nice job, how much did cost you the parts for entry dr650, I’m about to buy my self an 96 dry650, and I’m wondering how much will cost the parts,. Thanks
Some of the connectors won’t be used, especially the old navigation ones. I tucked them behind the wires, so that they don’t rattle against the dash and left them alone.
Paldies par video, izglītojošī! Vai nav gadijies pieredze ar SP43B-96 gads RSE, balstoties pēc suzuki-motorrad-ersatzteile man nepieciešama sadales vārpsta "12711-12D10-000" kas vairs nav pieejama, bet Jūs izmantojāt "12711-12D00-000", vai iespējams ka tās ir vienādas? Rokeru kodi abiem modeliem skarīt.
Nebiju piefiksējis faktu ka pēdējam RSE gadam ir savādāka sadales vārpsta. Biju pieņēmis ka viņas ir vienādas visiem 640cc modeļiem līdz 1996 gadam. 12711-12D10-000 ir vēl pieejama cmsnl.com lapā, bet cenu atšķirība ir ievērojama. Pēc izmēriem ticu ka viss ir tas pats, pieļauju ka Suzuki varētu būt pamainijuši piegādātāju. Man vēljoprojām ir saglabājusies sadalene no sava bijušā 1993 RSE, ja nepiešams, varu aizsūtīt bildes ar izmēriem salīdzinājumam.
@@restorationvalve Drošvien ka nav atšķirību, bet gribējās būt 100% parliecinātam pirms sūtu. Ja būtu bijusi kāda atšķirība, ganjau butu vismaz kāds raksts par to.
Thanks man, just as I was starting my top end rebuild this video popped up. It really helps having a reference now, especially due to content for this model being rare as heck.
Just completed a full dr600 rebuild... fantastic waste of money...lol too afraid to ride it... Will sell it and buy cheap running dr600 so I can ride it without fear of scratches and dents after I bin it...
“T” on the rotor means the top dead center for piston nr.2. To set the timing correctly, you need to set the crankshaft to “C”. That puts it on TDC for the first cylinder.
I had a 92 dr650 in like 2017 and it on the first day I owned it, the counterbalance chain snapped and it just so happened to stop rotating just out of range of the ceank, so the engine didnt explode. Then after I got it back from the shop (because I wasnt yet mechanically savvy nor did i have the tools to diy) I drove it down the interstate and the old rusted header pipe snapped right off at the flange. Big mad. Luckily the rusted exhaust studs came out clean, and I was able to find one on ebay which I could sand and respray with exhaust paint and primer. Got it back on the interstate, then realized the clutch was slipping. Man what a headache. So I remove the clutch and put all new steels and pads. After all that, I was only like $400 into repairs and I was feeling pretty happy with the bike. Except then the fork seals started leaking onto the front brakes. After all that I was gettin pretty tired of fixing and not riding. 😅. It was a beater and my first road bike, but ngl I still enjoyed it. I plan to get a new dr650 soon.
Great to hear other owner stories on the DR’s. That’s the main reason why I did a full restoration on this white/red DR, now I can enjoy it as if it was like new from the factory. Great that you can buy a new DR, in my region there are no new DR.
@@restorationvalve Yeah the newer motor is more bulletproof imo. The chain driven counterbalancer is a big downside to the old motor. An upside to the old motor is you can modify it with the kick and estart parts. The newer frame is also a plus. It's disappointing you can't get the new ones, they're still for sale at dealers here, but you can buy them used for roughly $3500 USD with relatively low miles. Glad I can watch someone work on these old ones, though. It's sick you could restore one to the degree that you have.
thank you sir i have the exact same bike dont no if any one can help ive rebuilt mine but can not buy header pipes have a doner bike 2015 super motad with brand newr dominatoer headers exhaudt bbut thr headers just need a little tweeking bend to fit the1991 can anyone help please thank you
Sounds like you’ll have to find someone local with a pipe bender or a correct exhaust that could fit better in your region. Wish I could help out, but unfortunately I don’t have anything that could bend exhaust pipes or an exhaust that fits for this bike. But if you need some other parts, there are a few parts from this Yamaha model on the eBay store, that’s described in the video description.
Persönlich würde ich KEINEN Sprühkleber verwenden, sondern alternativ ein Lammfell Mäuschen mit Rollkleber. Dies hat den Vorteil, dass ich das Material gleichmäßig und in Ruhe auf den Träger auftragen kann. Den neuen Stoff kann ich dann quasi in ein Kleberbett hineinlegen. Es gibt dann nicht einmal kleinsten Stellen wie beim sprühen, wo späterhin ggf. Material fehlt. So wird auf die Folgejahre bezogen , eine erneute Blasenbildung quasi ausgeschlossen!
Hi dude so my kle sounds the same like yours. Quit loud ticking noise. I just did the valve clearance and runs very sweet. Only 12k miles on the clock. This is probably normal for these engines? Cheers
For mine it was the exhaust itself, it made a particular sound. The original muffler make a whistling sound, this aftermarket one makes a the sound like in the video.
If I recall correctly, the universal Speedo had a setting that you could change the fuel float lever resistance range. I don’t recall using any resistors for it, the forum also has information on it. Be careful with the cheap speedos, mine had some small didn’t even match the wire colors with the instructions that came with it, but I got it to work properly in the end.
Great video, mate! I have one question for you about the DR. My crank spring is broken. Is it possible to change it without disassembling the entire engine?
Thanks, If you mean the kick starter spring, then the only way to replace it is by splitting the case. You can see in the video that the spring has to be installed before bolting the case together, and it’s not accessible from the side covers.
