Hello & welcome. I'm Phillip & I make videos on RU-vid. Wow! Video production, cameras, & postproduction from the perspective of a sometimes working freelancer guy and "content" creator. Sometimes cats make an appearance.
I have watched 6 different videos on this topic and this is by far the best, showing the why but also exactly how to make the settings in the menu of the FX3 and correcting and comparing the footage in post in Davinci Resolve. Thanks so much
I appreciate you are trying to break this down and says Cine EI but this video does not do what you think it does. First of all, pausing a compressed video is poor comparison tool for critical judgements, Cine EI needs at least camera original files to judge. Secondly, despite that by repeatedly looping your test shots, they show the the opposite of what you say, Cine EI clearly preserves better details in shadows on my OLED screen. Perhaps your viewing monitor lacks shadow detail. Thirdly, the noise floor in these comparison shots clearly have different noise floors. That the technical error here. Dynamic range is not just highlights and shadows, it's with noise factored in as well as latitude which is over and under exposure correctability. Your clips is missing any actually scientific comparison of dynamic range. The only conclusion that can be drawn here is that you are not seeing a highlight shadow difference in your viewing environment. See how Cine D tests dynamic range. www.cined.com/the-cinema5d-camera-lab-is-back-dynamic-range-tests/ your comparison shots here are not really usable especially as lighting could have changed (and did change) out of doors.
Thanks for this video! I guess this means that this camera isn’t suitable for long Twitch streams using OBS (5-7 hours at a time)? That’s disappointing as the low light and autofocus seem so nice on this camera, but good to know.
Let me have a go at explaining based on my intuition of what is going on. Luminance is the most important thing in video codecs, almost all of the precision (in your 10bit codec) is used for storing luminance information (not colour information). I invite folks to use a monitor on their Sony cameras i.e. "monitor+" on your ipad and flick through the colour profiles i.e. PP4, PP8 etc and see what happens to the colour waveform scope. Anyone who understands how the "dynamics/compression" works in audio will immediately see what is happening, it's basically applying a curve to compress the highlights and shadows into a smaller space, it's "squeezing" the information together into the middle - so you can store more dynamic range in a smaller space. The wide gamut codec of Sony log footage also has more luminance precision i.e. 10K values rather than 1K values, but the codec is still 10bit which means you are actually losing precision in 2 ways, one that it's compressing your sensor data into a smaller space, and 2 that the wider gamut codec profile (note gamut is colour, not luminance) is representing a larger space but still with its 10 bit codec. So you might wonder why skintones always look better on SDR in a low dynamic range shot, this is why - there is way more precision being used for your skintones (they are stretched across more of your representation space, which always looks better). That's why for me, SLOGCineGamut should only be used when you actually need to capture a wide dynamic range (outside or changing light). Also - yes the camera only actually has 2 sensor modes (the base isos) and the ISO/EI adjustment just translates the distribution of values up and down to map onto the actual range of luminance your codec supports (for display only, not recording on EI), given that there is often more dynamic range "going in" than which can be stored, you need to make the tradeoff by shifting the distribution up and down, again, using the monitor app to see this effect actually happening when you switch ISO is illuminating (pun intended). As you point out, changing the EI doesn't change the base iso, but it does prompt you to adjust aperture or change your ND filter which does change the exposure (light going in). So then there is the important question of which picture profile (compression curve) does the Sony Cine function actually use, because this is the only real consideration in my opinion - it seems to use the PP4-5 range, which is a much milder compression than the higher ones i.e. PP8 - which means on high DR shots it might not be enough to capture both highlights and lowlights, but does mean you retain a fair bit of range for skintones. So based on this, it does indeed seem a bit pointless, you have far more control over the compression curve just adjusting the actual picture profiles and ISO doing it the "old way". Coming from a guy who has a Ph.D in signal processing but self-taught in cameras through trial and error, I hope my intuitions help people
Awesome. I will be exposing for my new FX 30 soon and I would much prefer to know where my exposure is going and have it fully under my control. For me, Cine EI would not be a good option for that. Thanks for your work on this, it is very helpful for when I do my own testing.
I tried Cowberry and Aloe (linear switches); they required no force, and the space bar felt dead. If you're coming from Apple or MX Keys Moss or Wisteria is the way to go. (Tactile) . (Moss has a great feel regarding thump and force).
Coming from a Fuji X-S10 shooter, if I were to start over and invest new money into photography, I’d go with the Sony. That autofocus is just something else. When you’re an enthusiast, the more “I don’t have to think about this aspect” is a big advantage. Nailing focus, tracking subjects, etc is a confident action on the Sony’s. With Fuji, I am always focusing, refocusing, and checking images for focus
Negative number = more noise. You're reducing the amount of noise reduction that is applied by the camera. For sharpness: negative number = less sharpening. You're reducing the amount of sharpening applied by the camera. Perhaps another way to think about it is negative numbers reduce the strength of "effects" that the camera is applying, thus making the image look more raw, natural, unfiltered, etc.
This is not universal; this assumes all people your shooting is not olive or dark skin. What if the individual is dark skin like me or brown? 50 ire won't cut it
I use Control - Page Up and Page Down a lot (to support my 80 open tabs habit ;). How did you find the upper right corner position of those keys on this keyboard? Does the distance become awkward / inefficient with frequent use?
I'm not one to make frequent use of those keys, but I can see how their different placement could throw you. Given that they're the top two keys in the upper right, I'd imagine that you could get used to them with some practice but I can't really say for sure
@@PhillipRPeck Just checked out the dimensions of the Nuphy Air96. It's a 5" reach from bottom to top. My full size Logitech is only 4.5" from bottom of bottom row to top of top row (of keys). A typical adult hand should have no problems is my guess
Thanks! One nagging problem I have with the ‘middle mouse button’ which currently impedes it’s usefulness in DR : each time I depress the button, it brings up ‘Spotlight Search’ - I’m running DR 18.6.6 under Sonoma 14.5 and have yet to find where that relationship is set and how to override with Logi (the wheel button is defined to ‘Middle Button’)…frustrating.
Discovered the failure! Apple - that purveyor of inaccessibility and old code residue. I dug out my old wired Apple Mighty Mouse (USB-A connection) and connected it to my Macbook Pro…this allowed me to expand its current ‘Mighty Mouse Settings..'. Behold, the middle button on that old mouse was defined to bring up Spotlight. I redefined that little top button to ‘Button 3’, exited settings, disconnected that old mouse, reconnected my MX Master S3, and set the wheel button to ‘Advanced click Middle Click’. The Peasants Rejoice! <Soapbox ON> All is now right with my world. Note to Micro…uh, Apple: your coders should expose all internal parameters affecting the behavior of a mouse - unless, of course, those parameters should not have affected that behavior, in which case remove them and FIX the Bug. <Soapbox OFF>
Thank you for leaving a review. I've been using this keyboard for about 4 months now, and I love the way it feels when typing. It's great for my smaller hands and allows me to type quickly and seamlessly. However, I'm having issues with the Enter key, as I need to press it multiple times for it to register, which is very frustrating given the price of the keyboard. It's also disappointing that it doesn't come in black or have a screenshot key. Despite these drawbacks, I still find typing on it very satisfying. I'm considering changing the lock key switch in the hope of resolving the issue, but I'm new to mechanical fixing and have never changed a switch before. I'd appreciate some guidance on how to do this and whether it's likely to solve the problem. Thank you!
Had similar problems with a 9750x build for the past year. Drove me crazy, do the point i almost switched the darn thing to Intel. Your video actually helped solve the problem - the liquid cooler was tightened too much, I loosened the screws like a half turn and presto, boots like butter (dono if that's a thing, butter and 95c hot CPU). Thanks dude
I believe the FX30 can send 4K 60 out via HDMI, so it will depend on the capture card if you're able to stream at that resolution and frame rate. I think the CamLink is limited to 4K 30.
@@PhillipRPeck Oh right! I don’t know why I thought it was 4K60 for the CamLink, weird! I know some capture cards can do 4K60 though, any chance you could test with one that does and get back to me? I’ve been looking at this cam for an upgrade to my A6400 so I can record locally in OBS at 4K60. It just makes things easier for me.
Thanks for this review. Were you recording this in a treated room? I would be using the mic in an untreated room, so background noise rejection is a serious issue. Which one is better in that respect?
I think the C214 is better at noise rejection in general. One key thing with any mic is getting the source of audio as close as comfortably possible--this allows you to keep the input gain relatively low which will help with picking up ambient noise
thank you for the clear explanation, hope Sony will support 4k over the usb-c (if that is possible using usb4 since it can support higher bandwidth, for now i'll stay will the old school setup).
After intensive testing, I've found that v6 firmware update for x-H2S has made the video autofocus worse. It is definitely not as accurate as before and the AI detection for birds is now useless.
Can you do a video on EQ man? A lot of us ,"Normies", per se lol....are learning about GPU and CPUs in a computer. But i know jack crap about EQ or what software. What do you use with the yeti? Also bro, put some affiliate links in your description....make that paper. I was a power seller on ebay and had to learn how to market myself cross platform and my sales went up by 13%. Id put vids in my ebay description to get buyers confidence etc. If you need help for free with that stuff, id gladly do it for free for you in exchange for your knowledge on audio and editing in DaVinci etc. If not, that's fine. Id default then to my first paragraph. Lol. Have a good day man.
Don't I have links in the description? Thanks for the comments, advice, and offers of assistance. I'm kind of phasing out of RU-vid so I don't know if I'll get around to making a video on EQ but I know there are a lot of good creators out there who are way more qualified than I am who have made videos about it. If I'm recording a USB mic like the Yeti, I usually record into Adobe Audition, but I also might record into Resolve if I need to fill in some VO directly into a video project. If you have any specific questions on audio or video editing, I'm happy to help to the best of my abilities.
I have a X-H2S and after the 6.00 firmware there definitely is worst performance in eye and face tracking compared to before I updated. I hope they can sort it out. In photo mode the animal and bird tracking has worked pretty darn good for me at least. Definitely not Sony levels of BIF performance but good enough for me. Honestly, probably 85% as good as my R5. I really hope they can focus more on AF performance and making their X-H line a solid wild-life contender going forward. Fuji is the only one rocking a stacked APSC sensor and the photos from the X-Trans sensor are amazing with rich color fidelity and noise performance.
Fantastic video explaining the "Why" extremely well. Thanks. Problem for an amateur such as me is not so much the processing but getting the exposure right. My new Sony A7rV is used for wildlife filming. As I understand it, to get the correct exposure I need to use ND filters. It's just not practical for me wandering around trying to find birds when I want the facility of taking stills as well as the odd movie. I guess I am better to stick to PP Off. But I did like the quality of S-Log 3 that you demonstrated!
I'd just crank the shutter and not worry too much about motion blur. Especially if you film in 60fps then a fast shutter won't look weird. A fast shutter will allow the details of the animals to remain sharp anyway
Great explanation, dude!!! I do have one quick question... is there a way for me to custom program a button on my fx3, that allows me to switch from EI to flexible ISO with just a push of a button?
Thanks! I don't have my FX30 anymore so I'm not 100% sure but I don't think there's a way to program a custom button just to recall Flexible ISO or Cine EI. On Sony alpha cameras with a mode dial, you could just setup Custom Profiles but I guess you can't do this either on the FX3/30
You over expose log footage in the sunlight, not at night, because it's logarithmic curve and you can push your blacks into the noise. It's complicated if you don't understand calculus. Under studio lights in log/SLog-3 you want to under expose by one stop, and in sunlight you over expose 1.667 stops.
In flog 2 the base iso is 1250. Is there a second base iso like in the Sony fx3 and a7s3? Do you know anything about it...I couldn't find anything about it from fuji.
I don't think so. I think Gerald Undone has a video where he goes through the ISO range and finds a cleaner high ISO but he thinks it's probably noise reduction as Fujifilm didn't say anything about a second base
