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Thank you for this! I built a nearly square cabinet to be used as a subwoofer. I did not have a subwoofer to purposely build it. I had two ports that I thought I could tune with the length of the tubes. But then of course I did the math. Then a friend gave me a plate amp that was blown and I fixed that.. So that was also an addition. So now I had to try to purchase subwoofer to fit the plate amp. The plate amp is too powerful for the sub. As you're reading this you can tell this is very fun for me I'm learning as I'm going and I'm acquiring parts as they come to me and as I find around in my shop. So I purchased a subwoofer that fits the cabinet and I made it portless back in the day we called it acoustic suspension. And I got what I wanted out of my system I wanted to hear the lows clearer better not moving too much air not automotive trunk rattling. As soon as I plug the ports properly I got tones that I could adjust and work on and it became wonderful for me for home theater and also playing music. And most of my life there's never been enough base. So the systems I build for myself are all 2.1 now. If it's 50 watts per channel then it's double for the subwoofer. However this subwoofer has the plate amp that I installed. And once I plug the ports the sub sounded great especially with midlows and sub frequencies. Ceiling the cabinet basically tame the beast and gave me more defined low end. Now I hear your video here and you gave me the perfect solution to get out some of the higher low end tones that hoooot . I happen to have the correct foam with me and I'm looking forward to tuning my ever evolving subwoofer cabinet to make it sound even better. Thank you for this! Obviously this one wasn't a project that I built a cabinet for a speaker and did all the math. This was a cobbled up fun project from scrap that I had around. So I really appreciate your insight in this and someone actually talking about speakers that aren't ported.
Maybe you can help me if you do not mind. I have an ok pair of JBL62 speakers with the Titanium laminate tweeters in them. They are a bit too bright for me. There is pair 4uf 100v axial caps in the crossovers. What value could I use to tame the tweeters down just a little? There are also 2 orange drop looking I guess caps on the board to. Sorry I do not not know their values just yet or their purpose on the crossover. As I understand several models of vintage JBL book shelve speakers with these titanium tweeters have a tendency to be to bright. Thanks ahead of time.
I recently acquired a pair of martin logan ESL electromotion speakers and for some reason, the volume output is way lower and muddy sounding compared to my other speakers. Martin logan support recommended I replace the internal power supply, so I just swapped them out and the volume is still really low. Do you think it's a crossover issue?
it doesnt sound like a crossover problem to me, I can see online its a electrostatic speaker with a dynamic woofer at the bottom. If the 2 drivers are opposite in phase, it will result in muddy and lower levels, because they are cancelling out. But I dont know your speaker at all, this is just a shot from the hip
I have some amazing poly cones including large scale guitar and musician's pro audio speakers. *The damping quality to polypropylene and metalized polypropylene really cleans up the sound in general, not just the breakup of decay.* *Generally, I would favor paper cones of some kind particularly in the mids and highs, but strangely is for a shred and sweep guitarist like myself, the polymer cones provide a significant amount of damping that makes your playing clearer and more defined.* The fiber cones sound very "open" but they also aren't very forgiving to the imperfections coming out of guitars that we so often just regard as transient noises. *My metalized polypropylene cones for pro audio and musician's needs ultimately sound warmer and more intimate than paper.* Metalized polys are cheap and perform amazingly. I'm surprised I rarely see it anymore. My favorites to date are polypropylene that has been metalized with chrome. *It sounds so very warm, organic and intimate that it's literally a comforting color and texture added to everything coming out of it.*
How would I measure / test the wires that are coming from the stereo? For ex. I have a car stereo and one of the speakers isn't working and I need to test the wires FROM the radio to see if they're working. How would I do that?
Hi I just got my hands on a Bose powermatch amp that has 70/100/8 ohm settings. I have it on 100v x with 8 klipsch commercial speakers. I think they sound amazing. But are you saying I can do better with setting it to 8 Ohms?
That would be the correct place to connect, if its under stress right now would take a bunch of research on the particular amp, so its a gamble to have it connected in the wrong spot
Not always the case. I use the big 1188 copies (I make my own simple horns with wood 4 pieces of scrap wood) with an 8ohm resistor in parallel and then use a regular adjustable L-pad to adjust their level. They add just the right amont of sparkle and upper end to vintage alnico 8" or 10" full range drivers I use in open baffle. Not harsh at all when you keep their output tamed with the L-pad. They actually sound beautiful and they're very light and dirt cheap. The trick is keep their output tamed
From what I've gathered there are three frequency areas a woofer can operate in. The +12db per octave lower area where position (force) is constant. If you were to apply a battery say 1.5 volt to the speaker then it pops forward say 2mm and that's it. That's what I mean by position = constant. It doesn't matter if we're at 2hz 5hz or 10hz.. Then there is the 6db per octave mid area around Fs where speed (voltage) is constant. And force (or current) tends to go to zero because the two forces cancel out. Then there is the flat 0db area where acceleration is constant. (and force is constant again). When the drivers qts is lowered that means it has a relatively lower electrical resistance that means that the area where the driver is 'in control', or the mid +6db/oct area, is widened. Here the voltage the driver generates more or less equals the voltage that's applied, that means 'speed is constant' so to speak. In the other two areas the lower 12db and the upper 0db one, the current is limited by the resistor so you're in a kind of force = constant regime. If there was no resistance some kind of superconducting speaker it would be in 6db per octave mode all the way. I hope that made any sense. At q 0.7 there is hardly any 6db slope area and it goes directly from 12db slope to 0db flatness.
but I'm trying to do is so the green and black adapter that you showed on your video the male version well I'm getting the female version of that exact type of connector powered DC jack connector whatever it's called but the wire that I need to use is an 8 gauge wire and this only fits 16 and 12 gauge so I'm trying to figure out what kind of thing I can put at the end of the wire to reduce it I thought of using a a spade of some kind but what I only could find was these Burndy YA8CTC38 One Hole Hylug Code Conductor Long Barrel Uninsulated Copper Compression Terminal, #8 AWG, #8 Weld, 37/24, anyways I was thinking of that or they had these gold ones they're almost the same thing but instead of rectangle shape they're round shape all of them have a hole which I didn't want it with the hole but there's one with two holes and if I cut the one hole off there's enough space to trim it down to fit inside the power jack thing so I'm hoping that will work otherwise I'll have to solder 12 or 16 gauge wire at the end and just long enough to stick it into the power jack adapter
So, under this logic, if i add another 2 4 ohm speakers on a 3rd line, would it drop the overall load on the amp to 2 ohms, as my amp needs to be running at 2 ohms for me to have the right power for the 6 speakers i have?
2x 4 ohms speakers in parallel are 2 ohm total just between those 2, but if you add more speakers in parallel to that same amplifier output it will be lower than that, and it doesnt matter if its another speaker cable with plus and minus, if its connected to the same output with plus and minus it will be in parallel as well.
I have a 4 ohm tweeter(with bass blocker/capasator) and a 4 ohm midrange speaker wired in parallel, it still shows 4 ohm load. Do I still tune my amp to the 4 ohm load? Or the 2 ohm load it’s supposed to be?
The BEST and cheapest way to go about a system like this is getting commercial 70v (volt) speakers and a commercial amplifier. Not only is it cheaper, but it requires much less wiring and much less complex wiring as all the speakers can just Daisy chain together.
Its easier, but not cheaper than what already someone have in the garage or a small class D amp from China, and the sound is not as good on 70v and 100v, often limited frequency band on the cheap models. However if its a restaurant build-out from scratch or other commercial place you are absolutely right 70volt or 100volt system is the way to go, because its easier for the electrician, so cheaper in labor and cable, and you can expand easy and control volume locally in a room without zone control, I do sell these kind of systems, but I see low impedance amps overloaded all the time to save a buck, and so this video is made to help out on that.
This guy knows watts up. A few other seemingly popular videos about rebuilding crossovers ard just rambling monologues - they just go on about where the components were purchased, other projects, etc. Often a guy will "show us how to" test a capacitor or measure the output of something, and they connect test leads and read off a number, maybe compare it to that of an alternate part, but not even mention the unit... Are you talking about ohms, watts, volts, what? How can I learn anything from that? I guess how to act like an expert, or how to baffle observers. . . . This is the first video I found showing this stuff in a way my brain can comprehend. I learned everything I needed to know, and a lot more, without any effort spent guessing or complaining. Lol. Its not a mysterious world where catch-phrases and brand-names are magic spells. It's nature... Physics. It works according to principles that can be understood. If you know the rules, you can play the game.
Very informative. I bought a 5.1 speaker system that is cheap and bad, but I think I can get it to sound better by dampening inside. The wood is very thin and there is a lot of echo when you knock on the speakers, so they were made cheap without any mechanical or acoustic dampening. It will be a fun project.
Thanks for a great tutorial! I just finished building a pair of ported boxes. I tried them with no damping this evening, to see how they behave... Will be adding damping tomorrow. Then i can experiment with the length of the port tube. Silicone sealant is a great tip! My cutting is not great.. Used draft excluder tape in a couple of bad gaps. Speaker gaskets are another potential leaking problem.
I have this exact bed. It’s hooked up to a Tmax timer and it has a booster. It was working prior to me moving it into a new room the T max is attached to the 6 prong plug. I’m not sure why but I’ll set the timer it counts down the 3 min and the timer starts but the bed won’t kick on any idea why it wouldn’t be working? Is there a fuse I’m missing that may be blown?
I have this exact bed. It’s hooked up to a Tmax timer and it has a booster. It was working prior to me moving it into a new room the T max is attached to the 6 prong plug. I’m not sure why but I’ll set the timer it counts down the 3 min and the timer starts but the bed won’t kick on any idea why it wouldn’t be working? Is there a fuse I’m missing that may be blown?
I've five Motorola KSN1016 in parallel. Each has a 56 ohm series resistor. That paralp as primary, lel load goes to the 25 volt leads of a 30 watt matching transformer. I'm currently using the 15 watt tap as the primary side and that primary has a 7.2 ohm/ 0.11mH Zobel network. The highpass network is currently a 1.3uF capacior. It sounds pretty good. With the 15 watt ta[ p as primary - Z drops to 3.6 ohm @20KHz
I have a question about my manager board. I had a Intellitan ccsIV but it stopped powering on. So I plugged in another board and it picked up the beds 1 thru 5 but when I press Call 200 it doesn’t reset just beeps.
When I plug mine manager in it picks up my 5 beds but code Call 200 isn’t resetting the beds like my other manager that just went bad did. Do you know what I can do?
Is there any way to look at the specs (in a speakers retail description) that I could look for when searching for a decent sub for infinite baffle? I'll see if I can find the specs on a Honda Accord trunk space...
@@AudioTalk above 0.7? I saw where somebody said that the bigger (actual diameter 18" sub for example) the sub, the better performance if I'm going to let the trunk space be the enclosure. Back in the 90's I took the backseat out of a Ford Festiva and built a wall for 2 12" Kickers Comps; And I put a Punch-75 on each one using a crossover. This was all new equipment (in the 90s). I didn't think it would sound good because the subs called for a 2ft x 2ft enclosure for each speaker. But they performed amazing! The lows were extreme (for the time). And that's one reason I've looked for the older Stillwater design Kicker lately; with no luck.
@@barnes29510 yes, 0,7 but max 1,0, typically woofers with higher qts would be low quality, but that is anecdotal because its possible to create a driver with higher qts and maintain a good driver, I just haven't seen it.
