thanks man you saved me so much time!! Quick question though do you recommend replacing the whole coolant system of a 2.0L 2004 passat? my engine was leaking coolant, and i have replaced thermostat/water outlet housing. Im asking as ive heard its common that the coolant completely corrodes the plastic cooling system parts....
Bom dia tenho um seat ibiza de 2010 1.2 gasolina e quando dou a partida liga a luz do controle do peneu vazio e a luz de ESP e o carro perde rendimento. Ja mudei o sensor de rotacao e continua igual o codigo de ERRO E O P0321 seat pf ajude me😊
Yes I agree this is the best video of how to remove and replace parts on a vw . Thank u Randy , u saved me a lot of money and time for getting things done on my vw passat. But I do have a question does the commy valve need a gasket when putting it back?
Thank you! Sorry, but I do not remember if the valve has a gasket. I shot this video years ago and I can’t remember. Lol. I’m sorry that the video is so shaky, I have MS and my hands shake sometimes.
You said twist and pull on the plastic clamps the attach cables to the bracket at trans . There is an arrow on mine. Would you mind exlaining where this arrow is suppose to point in order to release them ? And im twisting but it doesnt appear to have any threads.
What are the symptoms of broken cables, what are signs they’re about to fail? I have a huge amount of side-to-side slop in gear, seems it’s getting more difficult to get in gears
I don’t know if the cables can stretch, it’s possible. The one in the video just broke. The slop could be a worn gear shifter. Remove the console and check it out. Look at the cable mounts while you are in there.
@@randytempleton5797 ok thanks, seems the cables aren’t too bad, is there bushings on the shifter itself? From videos it looks like just a ball and socket, but maybe there is a bushing in it missing
I have a 2004 VW Jetta GL 2.0 and it was showing the P0322, so we replaced the crankshaft sensor and cleared the code. I drove it for about 15 mins and the check engine light came back on, so we scanned it and the P0322 code it back. Can you tell me what I should look for now? I need to get it repaired ASAP it's my work car and I already had to miss two days over this problem. I'd be very grateful for any help at all. Thanks
Excellent video! Question for you. My wife has a '14 GSR with the 2.0 TSI. Do you recall a second coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing? I'm getting some competing info online and want to try and confirm before I pull the intake manifold.
You’re welcome. I thought about making it taller but have never ran off of the end of the ramp. I’ve had a lot of practice lol. A little taller would probably be better.
I hope your wife got rid of this car by now. I have a 2012 VW beetle turbo and this is the worse car every 3 to 4 months it needs a major repair. It's in the shop now get a new intake manifold for the second time!
Sorry to hear that. We still own the car. Have had it 6 years. We haven’t had too much trouble with it. I had the timing chain replaced a month ago at the dealer under the warranty extension. It didn’t cost me anything. I have a video talking about the warranty.
@@randytempleton5797 well I just wonder why I am having so much trouble with my car. You would not believe the repairs I made on this thing. I had it for 12 years I have replaced fuel injectors, blower motor fan X2 ignition coils and most recently at 85k miles : water pump, fuel pump, air conditioner compressor, heater core, oil switch regulator,timing valve cover gasket, gasket for the turbo, intake manifold x2 intake valves cleaned for carbon build up, complete clutch job including clutch master cylinder and now the car has 102k miles. I don't know what I did wrong with this car it was dealer maintained for the majority of owner ship. Maybe the 2012 VW beetle turbo are a bad model year?🤔
@@randytempleton5797 I know and I am stuck with this car because I have more invested in repairs than what it is worth. Well I guess that is life. Thanks for response and this was a good video btw.
@@bh2155 I understand about being stuck with it. If you ever have any questions about future repairs, then ask. I don’t know everything, lol, but maybe can give you guidance. Thanks for the compliment on the video.
I forgot to mention that the MIL is not on, there are no codes. The rattle is so quick and intermittent that’s it’s hard to say, but yes, that’s kind of what it sounds like. The dealer can check the crank to cam correlation (synchronization) , because if the chain is stretched a lot, the cam and crank sensors will be out of synch, because the cams will be retarded. But my service advisor said that it may still be in synch with a stretched chain. Apparently mine is in synch because there are no codes. But with more than 7 notches showing, mine should qualify for warranty. I’m taking it to the dealer in a week.
@@randytempleton5797.....So did they fix under warranty? And did they just replace the chain and tensioner to solve the rattle or all timimg components in there? Thanks
@@chasechevy8933 They did repair it under warranty. I’m not exactly sure what they replaced, the service advisor was not sure. I know they replaced the chain, tensioner, and guides.
@@randytempleton5797 ....Ok yeah, that's pretty much the whole shabang. One more question, would your noise variate depending on the rpm? Mine seems to do it more at idle and low rpm, then go away under acceleration.
Randy are you purposely trying to make your videos extra long.? Stop with the explaining of drive sockets, we dont care of the cars you bought, noir your dog's name, lets stick to the fact's and Stop with the small talk.!
I am not familiar with that car, but the code is for your crankshaft position sensor. I do not know where it is located on your engine, or how to diagnose it. Sorry.
What on earth is that black cone that is underneath the low beam and across from the wire receptacle? Thing is held in place with #20 Torx screws. There is a ball at the narrow end of the cone that slides into a slot that is in an extension which is attached to the reflector for the low beam. Are those Torx screws supposed be snug? They are screwed into plastic. Their threads look like the threads on wood screws or sheet metal screws. I suppose the slot that the ball slides into is there to allow some movement of the reflector for the high beam and attached refractor for the low beam - when you turn the screws that are for adjusting the headlight aim. I'm just trying to figure out if the black cone is supposed to be held down snugly by the Torx screws or if the screws are supposed to be a little lose to enable the cone to wobble a bit when you turn the aiming screws. Mine screws were loose. Didn't seem right so I snugged them up - just until they made contact and then just a hair more - I didn't want to strip any threads in holes in the the plastic piece that they screw into. But then I had second thoughts. Maybe they should have remained loose. Car is a nice car to drive but a horror for mechanics to work on. The insulation on the wires inside the headlight assembly is all brittle and is breaking off. I'm going to put some high temperature (275 deg F) "liquid electrical tape" on the wires, to insulate them.
I was able to get the mount completely out. I twisted it and pushed it up, then it came out. I had to heat the engine to get the dipstick to break free.
Actually, we have played a few rounds at this course at night with better scores than in the daytime. I guess maybe since we can’t see the trees at night, we don’t worry about them as much. Lol.
We are throwing a glow-in-the dark disc at a lighted basket. We wear LED headlamps also, and leave them on sometimes, then other times turn them off before we throw.
