You will get swirils if you use a dry sponge. You should rise, foam, rise, foam, get sponge wet and then start to scrub... Also start top to bottom and go side to side not circles..... Not telling you how to wash your ride I'm just saying if you are putting out info you should make an attempt at good info.
I guess its all subjective, I'm 5'11" and I love my Bob suspension, the rear is set up soft over bumps but handles the bends just fine. i have a small nose fairing that puts the wind and bugs right into my face so am going the taller fairing similar to yours but will fit spacers to the screen to allow some airflow. My mirrors are already mounted below the bars which doesn't take long to get used to.
Just some more friendly tech tips…after removing your drain plugs use a small metal brush and clean the threads. Spray the threads with brake cleaner and dry. Apply light coat of oil to o-ring and install on drain plug. Then lightly coat the threads with thread sealant being careful not to get the sealant on anything but the threads. Reinstall and torque 14-21ft lbs. Do this for ALL 3 drain plugs. You’ll never get a leak this way. I’ve NEVER had one come back with a leak. You did right with the oil filter but let it sit for about 15-20mins to let the oil absorb into the filter element. Install filter finger tight plus a 1/2 turn. Invest in a strap wrench too for stubborn filter removals when the other filter wrench slips. Next, get a primary fluid funnel. Should use about 30oz of primary fluid if wet. Fill to bottom of clutch basket. And change your derby cover gasket. If you don’t you risk a leak. I do it EVERY 5K miles. The little bit of $$$ is worth the peace of mind. As for the transmission I use the HD 80W-140 synthetic gear oil. Mobil 1 also makes a great gear oil. Depending upon wear you live with temperature ranges you might use something lighter in colder climates and something heavier in much warmer climates. One other tip is to always replace the transmission dipstick o-ring too. The newer bikes come with a black plastic type of dipstick that sucks and is a bitch to thread back into the case. I invested in the old metal style one and threw the other in the garbage. Keep wrenching.
My man…good to see you wrenching on your bike but for the love of god follow my suggestions. First of all, after removing your pads from the caliper spray the caliper with a good dose of brake cleaner and wipe dry. Cleans all of the dirt out. Secondly, NEVER let your greasy dirty fingers touch the surface of your new brake pads…NEVER! Third, always get a new caliper retaining clip and pad pin for your pad installation. There’s a reason the MoCo supplies it with new pads. The clip and pin DO experience appreciable wear as they support the pads with constant spring pressure against them. For $6 you’d be foolish not to. Fourth, learn your torque specs. Get a service manual. They are a great help. Fifth, never pry against the surface of your new pads with a screwdriver. Good luck. Front pad pin torque is 75-102in lbs, brake caliper mounting screws are 28-38ft lbs. But you probably know that by now. And remember to loosen your rear cylinder reservoir cap to release some pressure. Wrap a paper towel or two around the cap to prevent leakage. That DOT 4 will eat any paint it touches. And don’t forget to retighten.
I watched a video yesterday of a guy using a cut off wheel to cut out the baffles. I thought that’s too risky. Your method was a lot safer IMO. I have also watched a lot of videos of people drilling out the CATs to remove those. Now I’m wondering if a hole saw would be a better way to go. I have an old head pipe off a 2016 that I put the V&H header on. I just sold that bike so I was going to take it to the dump, but now I think I’ll try a hole saw on it to see if that’s an easy DIY. If it works maybe some one might want to buy it.
Easiest way to get carb out is to loosen both lower subframe bolts (as you do here) but then loosen the top subframe bolt, and then rotate the entire subframe up enough that you have an inch or so gap between back of carb and airbox boot. Exhaust stinger boot slides right off, and when you lower subframe back down it slides right back on (they engineered the stinger angle specifically for this task).
Great video Jon,I’m trying to decide which riser/bar set up to go with for my 2015 Roadking Police.You really helped me decide on how hight and wide to go with the set-up thank you much man!!!!
Shit ain't cheap. Looks wise I would been better off running a newer FXLRS. Because mine is blacked out. I've spent probably 7k on the basics, wheels, rear fender, bars, trim, exhaust. I agree not buying a built one already haha we ride the shit out of them. I bought my dyna used. And it was bone stock low mileage. Not even a set of bars added to it.
I’m gonna be doing og risers and bars. Looking at 10.5” risers with the 2.5” rise bar. I’m 5.8 should be fine considering my stock mini apes are 12” and cranked forward. 2023 street Bob. What’s your opinion?
He went over that in the video, however I never take my seat off..it’s weird that he’s ok with getting the radio wet but not the seat..that compressed air will dry that seat just as it does the paint..it’s leather so it’s somewhat water resistant..that’s just me
Foam bike first to lift dirt off paint, rinse, foam again, hand wash with Microfiber wash mitt, rinse, spray down with exterior detail spray, dry (air and micro fiber towels).
